液晶结构及其在化妆品中的应用研究进展
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- 英文论文题名：Progress in research work with respect to Liquid crystal structure and its application in cosmetics
- 论文作者：贾兵 ; 张婉萍 ; 陈明华
- 英文论文作者：Jia bing ; Zhang wan-ping ; Chen ming-hua ; School of Perfume and Aroma Technology ; Shanghai Institute of Technology ; JALA Corporation
- 年：2016
- 作者机构：上海应用技术学院香料香精技术与工程学院;伽蓝(集团)股份有限公司;
- 论文关键词：液晶结构 ; 表征 ; 性能 ; 应用
- 英文论文关键词：Liquid crystal structure ; characterization ; performance ; application
- 会议召开时间：2016-06-15
- 会议录名称：第十一届中国化妆品学术研讨会论文集
- 英文会议录名称：The Proceedings of the 11th Seminar on Cosmetic China
- 语种：中文
- 分类号：O753.2;TQ658
- 学会代码：ZGXE
- 会议名称：第十一届中国化妆品学术研讨会
- 会议地点：中国上海
- 主办单位：中国香料香精化妆品工业协会
- 学会名称：中国香料香精化妆品工业协会
- 页数：8
- 文件大小：810k
- 原文格式：O
- 会议级别：全国
摘要
简述了液晶结构的定义、分类和表征方法。液晶是指处于"中介相"状态或称介晶态的物质,一方面具有像晶体一样的各向异性,另一方面又有像液体的流动性。液晶分为溶致液晶和热致液晶。液晶结构可以通过显微镜照片,差示扫描量热法,X射线衍射和核磁共振氢谱法来表征。重点介绍了液晶结构在化妆品中的应用,包括增强乳状液的稳定性、延长水合作用和闭合作用、控制活性成分的缓释、促进活性成分的渗透。最后提出了液晶结构在化妆品应用中存在的问题,并对液晶结构用于未来化妆品的发展趋势进行了展望。
The article briefly reviews the definition of the liquid crystal structure,as well as classification and characterization methods.Liquid crystal is intermediate or mesomorphic states of matter.Liquid crystal retain many of the properties of the solid state,such as optical anisotropy,but have the mechanical properties of liquids,i.e.they have fluidity.Liquid crystal includes thermotropic liquid crystal and lyotropic liquid crystal.Liquid crystal structures were determined by POM,DSC,XRD and ~2HNMR.Focused on the applications of liquid crystal structure in cosmetic,including increase emulsion stability,prolong skin hydration and skin occlusion,control active substance release,enhance the permeability of active substance.Finally,the problems of liquid crystal structure in cosmetic applications were put forward;besides,the future of Liquid crystal structure in cosmetic applications was prospected.
The article briefly reviews the definition of the liquid crystal structure,as well as classification and characterization methods.Liquid crystal is intermediate or mesomorphic states of matter.Liquid crystal retain many of the properties of the solid state,such as optical anisotropy,but have the mechanical properties of liquids,i.e.they have fluidity.Liquid crystal includes thermotropic liquid crystal and lyotropic liquid crystal.Liquid crystal structures were determined by POM,DSC,XRD and ~2HNMR.Focused on the applications of liquid crystal structure in cosmetic,including increase emulsion stability,prolong skin hydration and skin occlusion,control active substance release,enhance the permeability of active substance.Finally,the problems of liquid crystal structure in cosmetic applications were put forward;besides,the future of Liquid crystal structure in cosmetic applications was prospected.
引文
[1]Al-Bawab A,Friberg S E.Some pertinent factors in skin care emulsion[J].Advances in Colloid&Interface Science,2006,123-126(21):313-322.
[2]Tsai,C,Lin,L.-H,Kwan.Surface properties and morphologies of pheohydrane/liquid crystal moisturizer product[J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2010,32(4):258-265.
[3]Yhirayha C,Soontaranon S,Sakchai,etc.Formulation of lyotropic liquid crystal containing mulberry stem extract:Influences of formulation ingredients on the formation and the nanostructure[J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2014,36(3):213-220.
[4]Israelachvili J N,Mitchell D J,Ninham B W.Theory of self-assembly of hydrocarbon amphiphiles into micelles and bilayers[J].Journal of the Chemical Society Faraday Transactions,1976,72(24):1525-1568.
[5]Brown M A,Hutchins T A,Gamsky C J.Liquid crystal colloidal structures for increased silicone deposition efficiency on colour-treated hair[J].Int J Cosmet Sci,2010,32(3):193-203.
[6]Velasco E,Mederos L.A theory for the liquid-crystalline phase behavior of the Gay-Berne model[J].Journal of Chemical Physics,1998,109(6):2361-2370.
[7]冯尚华,王红霞,张高勇,等.表面活性剂溶致液晶的流变学性质[J].化学进展,2004,16(5):687~695.
[8]Mao L,Calligaris S,Barba L.Monoglyceride self-assembled structure in O/W emulsion:Formation,characterization and its effect on emulsion properties[J].Food Research International,2014,58(4):81-88.
[9]Kudla P,Sokolowski T,Blumich B.Phase behavior of liquid-crystalline emulsion systems[J].Journal of Colloid&Interface Science,2010,349(2):554-559.
[10]Varghese N,Shetye G S,Yang S.The ability of single-chain surfactants to emulsify an aqueous-based liquid crystal oscillates with odd-even parity of alkyl-chain length[J].Journal of Colloid&Interface Science,2013,412(24):95-99.
[11]Vilasau J,Solans C,Gomez M J.Phase behaviour of a mixed ionic/nonionic surfactant system used to prepare stable oil-in-water paraffin emulsions[J].Colloids&Surfaces A Physicochemical&Engineering Aspects,2011,384:473-481.
[12]Zhang Z,Friberg S E,Pa.A.Change of amphiphilic association structures during evaporation from emulsions in surfactant-fragrance-water systems[J].Int J Cosmet Sci,2000,22(3):181-199.
[13]Rossetti F C,Fantini M C,Carollo A R,et al.Analysis of liquid crystalline nanoparticles by small angle X-ray diffraction:Evaluation of drug and pharmaceutical additives influence on the internal structure[J].Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences,2011,100(7):2849-2857.
[14]Yamada K,Yamashita J,Todo H.Preparation and evaluation of liquid-crystal formulations with skin-permeation-enhancing abilities for entrapped drugs[J].Journal of Oleo Science,2011,60(1):31-40.
[15]秦海林,尚玉俊,赵伟.核磁共振氢谱法鉴别黄连的研究[J].中草药,2000,31(1).
[16]秦海林,赵天增.核磁共振氢谱鉴别植物中药的研究[J].药学学报,1999,34(1):58~62.
[17]张子勇,饶华新,陈燕琼.胆甾相液晶的制备及其显色示温混合液晶的配制[J].化学世界,2006,47(11):643~646.
[18]姚殿军.液晶化妆品[J].日用化学工业,1992,(6):14~18.
[19]陈燕琼,张子勇.胆甾型液晶的合成及显色示温液晶组成[J].化学世界,2003,44(7):373-376.
[20]Mele S,Murgia S,Monduzzi M.Monoolein based liquid crystals to form long-term stable emulsions[J].Colloids&Surfaces A Physicochemical&Engineering Aspects,2003,228(1-3):57-63.
[21]Friberg S,Jansson P O,Cederberg E.Surfactant association structure and emulsion stability☆[J].Journal of Colloid&Interface Science,1976,55(3):614-623.
[22]Andrade F F,Santos O D,Oliveira W P,et al.Influence of PEG-12 Dimethicone addition on stability and formation of emulsions containing liquid crystal.[J].Int J Cosmet Sci,2007,29(3):211-218.
[23]滕弘霓,滕大为.表面活性剂液晶及其乳化性能的研究[J].青岛大学学报:工程技术版,1997,(1):39~42.
[24]H I,J F,T S.A liquid crystal application in skin care cosmetics.[J].Int J Cosmet Sci,1998,20(2):87-102.
[25]Santos O D H,Sacai F,Ferrari M.Liquid crystals in O/W emulsions with urea:Development and testing[J].Cosmetics&Toiletries,2004.
[26]Kim I Y,Nakagawa S,Ri K.Liquid Crystal O/W Emulsions to Mimic Lipids and Strengthen Skin Barrier Function[J].Cosmetics&Toiletries,2009.
[27]FERRARI02M,MONTEIRO02L.C.L,NETZ02D.J.A.Identifying cosmetic forms and crystalline phases from ternary systems[J].Cosmeticss&stoiletries,2003.
[28]Swarbrick J,Siverly J R.The Influence of Liquid Crystalline Phases on Drug Percutaneous Absorption.I.Development of a Vehicle[J].Pharm Res,1992,9(12):1546-1549(4).
[29]张婉萍.液晶结构乳状液的制备及其性能研究[C]//第八届中国化妆品学术研讨会论文集.2010.
[2]Tsai,C,Lin,L.-H,Kwan.Surface properties and morphologies of pheohydrane/liquid crystal moisturizer product[J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2010,32(4):258-265.
[3]Yhirayha C,Soontaranon S,Sakchai,etc.Formulation of lyotropic liquid crystal containing mulberry stem extract:Influences of formulation ingredients on the formation and the nanostructure[J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2014,36(3):213-220.
[4]Israelachvili J N,Mitchell D J,Ninham B W.Theory of self-assembly of hydrocarbon amphiphiles into micelles and bilayers[J].Journal of the Chemical Society Faraday Transactions,1976,72(24):1525-1568.
[5]Brown M A,Hutchins T A,Gamsky C J.Liquid crystal colloidal structures for increased silicone deposition efficiency on colour-treated hair[J].Int J Cosmet Sci,2010,32(3):193-203.
[6]Velasco E,Mederos L.A theory for the liquid-crystalline phase behavior of the Gay-Berne model[J].Journal of Chemical Physics,1998,109(6):2361-2370.
[7]冯尚华,王红霞,张高勇,等.表面活性剂溶致液晶的流变学性质[J].化学进展,2004,16(5):687~695.
[8]Mao L,Calligaris S,Barba L.Monoglyceride self-assembled structure in O/W emulsion:Formation,characterization and its effect on emulsion properties[J].Food Research International,2014,58(4):81-88.
[9]Kudla P,Sokolowski T,Blumich B.Phase behavior of liquid-crystalline emulsion systems[J].Journal of Colloid&Interface Science,2010,349(2):554-559.
[10]Varghese N,Shetye G S,Yang S.The ability of single-chain surfactants to emulsify an aqueous-based liquid crystal oscillates with odd-even parity of alkyl-chain length[J].Journal of Colloid&Interface Science,2013,412(24):95-99.
[11]Vilasau J,Solans C,Gomez M J.Phase behaviour of a mixed ionic/nonionic surfactant system used to prepare stable oil-in-water paraffin emulsions[J].Colloids&Surfaces A Physicochemical&Engineering Aspects,2011,384:473-481.
[12]Zhang Z,Friberg S E,Pa.A.Change of amphiphilic association structures during evaporation from emulsions in surfactant-fragrance-water systems[J].Int J Cosmet Sci,2000,22(3):181-199.
[13]Rossetti F C,Fantini M C,Carollo A R,et al.Analysis of liquid crystalline nanoparticles by small angle X-ray diffraction:Evaluation of drug and pharmaceutical additives influence on the internal structure[J].Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences,2011,100(7):2849-2857.
[14]Yamada K,Yamashita J,Todo H.Preparation and evaluation of liquid-crystal formulations with skin-permeation-enhancing abilities for entrapped drugs[J].Journal of Oleo Science,2011,60(1):31-40.
[15]秦海林,尚玉俊,赵伟.核磁共振氢谱法鉴别黄连的研究[J].中草药,2000,31(1).
[16]秦海林,赵天增.核磁共振氢谱鉴别植物中药的研究[J].药学学报,1999,34(1):58~62.
[17]张子勇,饶华新,陈燕琼.胆甾相液晶的制备及其显色示温混合液晶的配制[J].化学世界,2006,47(11):643~646.
[18]姚殿军.液晶化妆品[J].日用化学工业,1992,(6):14~18.
[19]陈燕琼,张子勇.胆甾型液晶的合成及显色示温液晶组成[J].化学世界,2003,44(7):373-376.
[20]Mele S,Murgia S,Monduzzi M.Monoolein based liquid crystals to form long-term stable emulsions[J].Colloids&Surfaces A Physicochemical&Engineering Aspects,2003,228(1-3):57-63.
[21]Friberg S,Jansson P O,Cederberg E.Surfactant association structure and emulsion stability☆[J].Journal of Colloid&Interface Science,1976,55(3):614-623.
[22]Andrade F F,Santos O D,Oliveira W P,et al.Influence of PEG-12 Dimethicone addition on stability and formation of emulsions containing liquid crystal.[J].Int J Cosmet Sci,2007,29(3):211-218.
[23]滕弘霓,滕大为.表面活性剂液晶及其乳化性能的研究[J].青岛大学学报:工程技术版,1997,(1):39~42.
[24]H I,J F,T S.A liquid crystal application in skin care cosmetics.[J].Int J Cosmet Sci,1998,20(2):87-102.
[25]Santos O D H,Sacai F,Ferrari M.Liquid crystals in O/W emulsions with urea:Development and testing[J].Cosmetics&Toiletries,2004.
[26]Kim I Y,Nakagawa S,Ri K.Liquid Crystal O/W Emulsions to Mimic Lipids and Strengthen Skin Barrier Function[J].Cosmetics&Toiletries,2009.
[27]FERRARI02M,MONTEIRO02L.C.L,NETZ02D.J.A.Identifying cosmetic forms and crystalline phases from ternary systems[J].Cosmeticss&stoiletries,2003.
[28]Swarbrick J,Siverly J R.The Influence of Liquid Crystalline Phases on Drug Percutaneous Absorption.I.Development of a Vehicle[J].Pharm Res,1992,9(12):1546-1549(4).
[29]张婉萍.液晶结构乳状液的制备及其性能研究[C]//第八届中国化妆品学术研讨会论文集.2010.