文胸罩杯省道量分配对乳房压力舒适性及塑型性的影响研究
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摘要
通过研究文胸的发展现状可知,现在的文胸结构设计比较注重对女性人体的舒适性方面的研究,尤其在文胸对乳房的压力舒适性方面的研究更为突出。而文胸企业中很少着手去关注这方面的问题。本文从文胸的结构,罩杯的省道角的设计,来研究省道角的分配与乳房的压力舒适性、文胸塑型效果之间的相关性,从而得出优化的文胸版型。
本文首先以学习前人研究的文胸基础纸样为基础,提取文胸相关的人体数据,结合测量上海地区18～25岁之间的年轻女性的人体数据,得到新的符合文胸设计要求的人体数据,对人台进行补正,用立体裁剪与平面纸样设计相结合的方法,找真人模特试穿,反复修改纸样,得出新的文胸基础纸样；然后对文胸的省道量进行分配,设计出包括基础文胸样衣在内的十一款风格的文胸,有一片式,两片式,三片式3/4罩杯；再通过客观测试文胸的塑型效果穿着实验以及文胸罩杯对乳房的压强值的客观测试实验;最后用SPSS统计分析软件分析以上两个客观测试实验,得出文胸省道角的设计与塑型效果值和压强值之间的相关关系数学模型,并分析省道角与塑型效果值和省道角与压强值的关系,得出符合优化条件的文胸省道角的分配方案,并从设计的十一款文胸中选出符合条件的文胸,研究其版型。
本文研究的创新点是把人们比较关注的压力舒适性、文胸的塑型效果与文胸的版型设计结合起来,从而得出舒适性和塑型效果都较好的文胸纸样。总的来说,文胸对乳房的压力是正面的,它可以使女性的乳房产生优美的曲线,乳房受文胸的压力也比较小,容易受压的部位是乳房下部和腋下部。把省道角的设计与文胸的塑型穿着效果和对乳房的压力紧密的联系起来,从而也关注女性的健康,为企业的文胸设计研发提供参考,具有积极的研究意义。
Through the research on the the status quo of bra's development,we know that the pattern design of bra is studied mainly on the domain of the comfort on the femail's body, especially it takes high attention to the bra's pressure comfort on the breast.However,some brassiere companies seldom stick to do research on the problem. This thesis will study the relevance between the dart distribution of the bra cup,its pressure on the breast and the body type moulding of bra,from the dart corner design of a cup which is the structure of bra. And the result is that,it can get the optimized bra pattern design.
The thesis study the former's basis sample pattern of bra firstly to collect the relevant data of the bra,combining the measurement of the femail body data between 18 to 25 years old in shanghai,we can get the body measurement data concerning the design of the bra pattern,and ustizing the data to modify the body model, combining three dimensional and two dimensional clothing cutting method.After having done the bra's basis sample pattern, we should search some appropriate femail to put on to modify the sample pattern again and again,and get the new right sample pattern.Secondly,distribute the dart corner of the bra cup,and design the eleven different bras conculding bra which is made using the sample bra pattern.There are one-piece type cup,two-pieces type cup,three-pieces type cup,they are all the three quarters-cup. Thirdly,this paper will do two impersonal experiments, the one pratice is the bra try-on with the body type moulding impact on the real person,another is the measurement of bra's cup pressure on the breast.Fourthly,the paper will use the statistics software SPSS to anlyze the data of the two experiments to get the relevance between the dart distribution of the bra cup and its pressure on the breast as well as the bra's body type moulding impact result.And the paper will anlyze the mathematics model of them,and get the methods of dart corner distribution design according with the condition of the bra pattern optimization.At last,the paper will chose the most appropriate bra from the eleven different bras to study the pattern making method.
The innovation spot of this paper is more concerned about connecting the presssure comfort on the breast,bra pattern and bra try-on impact to get the best pattern with the comfortable pressure and good impact of bra try-on.In a word, the bra pressure' impact on the breast is positive,it can create the beautiful curve of the breast.And the pressure on the breast is very small,and the pressure on the underside breast and armpit is stronger. The paper studies the task through combining the dart corner distribution of the bra cup with bra try-on impact and the comfort pressure on the breast, and taking high attention on the femail body health,also afford ing reference to the reasearch on the bra structure in bra industry,which has very positive research significance.
本文首先以学习前人研究的文胸基础纸样为基础,提取文胸相关的人体数据,结合测量上海地区18～25岁之间的年轻女性的人体数据,得到新的符合文胸设计要求的人体数据,对人台进行补正,用立体裁剪与平面纸样设计相结合的方法,找真人模特试穿,反复修改纸样,得出新的文胸基础纸样；然后对文胸的省道量进行分配,设计出包括基础文胸样衣在内的十一款风格的文胸,有一片式,两片式,三片式3/4罩杯；再通过客观测试文胸的塑型效果穿着实验以及文胸罩杯对乳房的压强值的客观测试实验;最后用SPSS统计分析软件分析以上两个客观测试实验,得出文胸省道角的设计与塑型效果值和压强值之间的相关关系数学模型,并分析省道角与塑型效果值和省道角与压强值的关系,得出符合优化条件的文胸省道角的分配方案,并从设计的十一款文胸中选出符合条件的文胸,研究其版型。
本文研究的创新点是把人们比较关注的压力舒适性、文胸的塑型效果与文胸的版型设计结合起来,从而得出舒适性和塑型效果都较好的文胸纸样。总的来说,文胸对乳房的压力是正面的,它可以使女性的乳房产生优美的曲线,乳房受文胸的压力也比较小,容易受压的部位是乳房下部和腋下部。把省道角的设计与文胸的塑型穿着效果和对乳房的压力紧密的联系起来,从而也关注女性的健康,为企业的文胸设计研发提供参考,具有积极的研究意义。
Through the research on the the status quo of bra's development,we know that the pattern design of bra is studied mainly on the domain of the comfort on the femail's body, especially it takes high attention to the bra's pressure comfort on the breast.However,some brassiere companies seldom stick to do research on the problem. This thesis will study the relevance between the dart distribution of the bra cup,its pressure on the breast and the body type moulding of bra,from the dart corner design of a cup which is the structure of bra. And the result is that,it can get the optimized bra pattern design.
The thesis study the former's basis sample pattern of bra firstly to collect the relevant data of the bra,combining the measurement of the femail body data between 18 to 25 years old in shanghai,we can get the body measurement data concerning the design of the bra pattern,and ustizing the data to modify the body model, combining three dimensional and two dimensional clothing cutting method.After having done the bra's basis sample pattern, we should search some appropriate femail to put on to modify the sample pattern again and again,and get the new right sample pattern.Secondly,distribute the dart corner of the bra cup,and design the eleven different bras conculding bra which is made using the sample bra pattern.There are one-piece type cup,two-pieces type cup,three-pieces type cup,they are all the three quarters-cup. Thirdly,this paper will do two impersonal experiments, the one pratice is the bra try-on with the body type moulding impact on the real person,another is the measurement of bra's cup pressure on the breast.Fourthly,the paper will use the statistics software SPSS to anlyze the data of the two experiments to get the relevance between the dart distribution of the bra cup and its pressure on the breast as well as the bra's body type moulding impact result.And the paper will anlyze the mathematics model of them,and get the methods of dart corner distribution design according with the condition of the bra pattern optimization.At last,the paper will chose the most appropriate bra from the eleven different bras to study the pattern making method.
The innovation spot of this paper is more concerned about connecting the presssure comfort on the breast,bra pattern and bra try-on impact to get the best pattern with the comfortable pressure and good impact of bra try-on.In a word, the bra pressure' impact on the breast is positive,it can create the beautiful curve of the breast.And the pressure on the breast is very small,and the pressure on the underside breast and armpit is stronger. The paper studies the task through combining the dart corner distribution of the bra cup with bra try-on impact and the comfort pressure on the breast, and taking high attention on the femail body health,also afford ing reference to the reasearch on the bra structure in bra industry,which has very positive research significance.
引文
[1]Makabe H, Momota H, Mitsuno T, et al. Study of apparelpressure developed bythe
brassiere [J] Journal of the JapanResearch Association forTextile End-Uses,1991,32 (9):416.
[2]Stantakos AV, Watkins S W. Pressure analysis as a designresearch technique for increasing the comfort of nursingbrassieres [J]. Home Economics Research Journal, 1982,10 (3):271.
[3]成秀光．服装环境学[M].金玉顺,高绪珊,译．北京：中国纺织出版社,1999：112-118.
[4]Okabe, Kazuyo, Kurokawa, et al. Characteristics of three-dimensional displacement of the breasts wearing differentkind of brassieres in young Japanese women [J]. Journal of the Japan ResearchAssociation forTextile End-Uses,2004,45(6):36-44.
[5]Morooka, Harumi, Fukuda, et al. Clothing pressure and wear feeling at under-bust part on a push-up typebrassiere [J]. Journal of the Society of Fiber Science &Technology,2005, 61(2):55-60.
[6]Shimizu Y, Sasaki K, Watanabe K, et al. Dynamic measurement of pressure on the body from a brassiere [J].Journal of the Society of FiberScience&Technology,1993,49(1):99.
[7]Bruce R Mason, Kelly-Ann Page, Keiran Fallon. An analysis of movement and discomfort of the female breast during exercise and the effects of breast support in three cases [J]. Journal of Science andMedicine in Sport,1999,2(2):134-144.
[8]Bowles K A, Steele J R, Chaunchaiyakul R. Do current sports brassiere designs impede respiratory function? [J].Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise,2005,37(9): 1633-1640.
[9]王晋子.青年女性内衣压力舒适性小样本研究[D].北京服装学院,2005.
[10]宋晓霞.针织运动内衣服装压力和人体舒适性的关系[J].针织工业.2007(04)：33-37.
[11]元轶.针织内衣的压力研究[D].天津工业大学,硕士学位论文,2007.
[12]王越平,赵平,高绪珊,杨晶,王晋子.女胸衣压力舒适性的客观评测[J].纺织学报.2006,27(11)：90-93.
[13]Li Y,Zhang X,Yeung K W. A 3D biomechanical model fornumerical simulation of dynamic mechanical interactions ofbra and breast during wear[J]. Sen-Ⅰ Gakkaishi, 2003,59(1):12-21.
[14]Wo Wong. Prediction of clothing sensory comfort usingneural networks and fuzzy logic[D]. Hong Kong:The HongKong Polytechnic University,2002.
[15]刘莉,张渭源,王永进.调整型内衣压力对人体生理指标的影响[J].纺织学报.2008,29(11)：97-102.
[16]周晴,徐军.运动内衣穿着压力舒适的主观评定[J].纺织学报.2004(06).
[17]倪海燕,甘应进,陈东生,王强,俞夏莎.女性文胸压力舒适性研究[J].针织工业,2009(06)：31-34.
[18]常丽霞,张欣,齐静.基于三维人体测量技术的女性乳房形态细分研究[J].纺织学报,2006,27(12)：21-24.
[19]谷林,张欣.面向三维参数化女性人台构建的胸部特征数据测量方法[J].西安工程科技学院学报,2007,21(05).
[20]Carolyn Naismith, Annette Street. Introducing the Cardibra:A randomised pilot study of a purpose designed support bra for women having cardiac surgery. European Journal of Cardiovascular Nursing,2005(04):220-226.
[21]常丽霞,齐静,张欣.国内外的运动胸衣[J].中国纺织,168-171.
[22]安.哈格[英].内衣,泳装,沙滩装及休闲服纸样设计[M].北京：中国纺织出版社,2001：64-76.
[23]洪境,汪林.女性内衣设计制图技法[M].上海：东华大学出版社,2007.
[24]邓鹏举.内衣设计[M].沈阳：辽宁科学技术出版社,2009.
[25]张道英.上海地区青年女性文胸基础版样的研究[D].东华大学,硕士学位论文,2005.
[26]耿毓.女性内衣基型法的设计与应用研究[D].天津工业大学,硕士学位论文,2007.
[27]印建荣.内衣结构设计教程[M].北京：中国纺织出版社,2006.3：67-79.
[28]严燕连.文胸造型及其成衣纸样设计探讨[J].针织工业,2006(3)：32-33.
[29]常建亮,印建荣.内衣纸样设计原理与实例[M].上海：上海科学技术出版社,2007.7：9-13.
[30]温丽娟.华东地区青年女性文胸推版技术研究[D].东华大学,硕士学位论文,2006.
[31]梁素珍,张欣,陈东生.文胸结构设计中主要细部尺寸的人体依据[J].纺织学报,2008,29(12)：69-73.
[32]黄敏.谈内衣设计[J].化纤与纺织技术,2005(02)：42-44.
[33]梁素珍,张欣.内衣企业的文胸设计操作方式及其存在问题[J].针织工业,2007(01)：44-47.
[34]李秀英.文胸纸样设计研究.[J].纺织学报,2006,27(01)：103-106.
[35]张道英,张文斌.上海地区青年女子文胸罩杯模型的研究[J].东华大学学报(自然科学版),2006,32(06)：102-106.
[36]徐阳,杨兴云.空间解析几何及其应用[M].哈尔滨工业大学出版社,2006.9：151-154.
[37]严燕连.文胸造型与弹性针织面料应用探讨.[J].江苏纺织：72-75
[38]顾娟红卢庆峰.科学选用文胸.[J].质量与生活：61.
[39]缪旭静.三维模拟人体在优化文胸结构设计中的运用[D].东华大学,硕士学位论文,2006.
[40]杜艳科.文胸穿着力学分析[J].国际纺织导报,2006(01)：75-78.
[41]孟祥令,张渭源.服装压力舒适性的研究进展[J].纺织学报,2006,27(07)：109-112.
[42]陈宝林.最优化理论与算法(第2版)[M].北京：清华大学出版社,2005,5：26-35.
[43]苗凤香,戴鸿,刘驰,丁旭东.文胸下扒纸样绘制方法的探讨[J].天津工业大学学报,2009,28(02)：41-43.
brassiere [J] Journal of the JapanResearch Association forTextile End-Uses,1991,32 (9):416.
[2]Stantakos AV, Watkins S W. Pressure analysis as a designresearch technique for increasing the comfort of nursingbrassieres [J]. Home Economics Research Journal, 1982,10 (3):271.
[3]成秀光．服装环境学[M].金玉顺,高绪珊,译．北京：中国纺织出版社,1999：112-118.
[4]Okabe, Kazuyo, Kurokawa, et al. Characteristics of three-dimensional displacement of the breasts wearing differentkind of brassieres in young Japanese women [J]. Journal of the Japan ResearchAssociation forTextile End-Uses,2004,45(6):36-44.
[5]Morooka, Harumi, Fukuda, et al. Clothing pressure and wear feeling at under-bust part on a push-up typebrassiere [J]. Journal of the Society of Fiber Science &Technology,2005, 61(2):55-60.
[6]Shimizu Y, Sasaki K, Watanabe K, et al. Dynamic measurement of pressure on the body from a brassiere [J].Journal of the Society of FiberScience&Technology,1993,49(1):99.
[7]Bruce R Mason, Kelly-Ann Page, Keiran Fallon. An analysis of movement and discomfort of the female breast during exercise and the effects of breast support in three cases [J]. Journal of Science andMedicine in Sport,1999,2(2):134-144.
[8]Bowles K A, Steele J R, Chaunchaiyakul R. Do current sports brassiere designs impede respiratory function? [J].Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise,2005,37(9): 1633-1640.
[9]王晋子.青年女性内衣压力舒适性小样本研究[D].北京服装学院,2005.
[10]宋晓霞.针织运动内衣服装压力和人体舒适性的关系[J].针织工业.2007(04)：33-37.
[11]元轶.针织内衣的压力研究[D].天津工业大学,硕士学位论文,2007.
[12]王越平,赵平,高绪珊,杨晶,王晋子.女胸衣压力舒适性的客观评测[J].纺织学报.2006,27(11)：90-93.
[13]Li Y,Zhang X,Yeung K W. A 3D biomechanical model fornumerical simulation of dynamic mechanical interactions ofbra and breast during wear[J]. Sen-Ⅰ Gakkaishi, 2003,59(1):12-21.
[14]Wo Wong. Prediction of clothing sensory comfort usingneural networks and fuzzy logic[D]. Hong Kong:The HongKong Polytechnic University,2002.
[15]刘莉,张渭源,王永进.调整型内衣压力对人体生理指标的影响[J].纺织学报.2008,29(11)：97-102.
[16]周晴,徐军.运动内衣穿着压力舒适的主观评定[J].纺织学报.2004(06).
[17]倪海燕,甘应进,陈东生,王强,俞夏莎.女性文胸压力舒适性研究[J].针织工业,2009(06)：31-34.
[18]常丽霞,张欣,齐静.基于三维人体测量技术的女性乳房形态细分研究[J].纺织学报,2006,27(12)：21-24.
[19]谷林,张欣.面向三维参数化女性人台构建的胸部特征数据测量方法[J].西安工程科技学院学报,2007,21(05).
[20]Carolyn Naismith, Annette Street. Introducing the Cardibra:A randomised pilot study of a purpose designed support bra for women having cardiac surgery. European Journal of Cardiovascular Nursing,2005(04):220-226.
[21]常丽霞,齐静,张欣.国内外的运动胸衣[J].中国纺织,168-171.
[22]安.哈格[英].内衣,泳装,沙滩装及休闲服纸样设计[M].北京：中国纺织出版社,2001：64-76.
[23]洪境,汪林.女性内衣设计制图技法[M].上海：东华大学出版社,2007.
[24]邓鹏举.内衣设计[M].沈阳：辽宁科学技术出版社,2009.
[25]张道英.上海地区青年女性文胸基础版样的研究[D].东华大学,硕士学位论文,2005.
[26]耿毓.女性内衣基型法的设计与应用研究[D].天津工业大学,硕士学位论文,2007.
[27]印建荣.内衣结构设计教程[M].北京：中国纺织出版社,2006.3：67-79.
[28]严燕连.文胸造型及其成衣纸样设计探讨[J].针织工业,2006(3)：32-33.
[29]常建亮,印建荣.内衣纸样设计原理与实例[M].上海：上海科学技术出版社,2007.7：9-13.
[30]温丽娟.华东地区青年女性文胸推版技术研究[D].东华大学,硕士学位论文,2006.
[31]梁素珍,张欣,陈东生.文胸结构设计中主要细部尺寸的人体依据[J].纺织学报,2008,29(12)：69-73.
[32]黄敏.谈内衣设计[J].化纤与纺织技术,2005(02)：42-44.
[33]梁素珍,张欣.内衣企业的文胸设计操作方式及其存在问题[J].针织工业,2007(01)：44-47.
[34]李秀英.文胸纸样设计研究.[J].纺织学报,2006,27(01)：103-106.
[35]张道英,张文斌.上海地区青年女子文胸罩杯模型的研究[J].东华大学学报(自然科学版),2006,32(06)：102-106.
[36]徐阳,杨兴云.空间解析几何及其应用[M].哈尔滨工业大学出版社,2006.9：151-154.
[37]严燕连.文胸造型与弹性针织面料应用探讨.[J].江苏纺织：72-75
[38]顾娟红卢庆峰.科学选用文胸.[J].质量与生活：61.
[39]缪旭静.三维模拟人体在优化文胸结构设计中的运用[D].东华大学,硕士学位论文,2006.
[40]杜艳科.文胸穿着力学分析[J].国际纺织导报,2006(01)：75-78.
[41]孟祥令,张渭源.服装压力舒适性的研究进展[J].纺织学报,2006,27(07)：109-112.
[42]陈宝林.最优化理论与算法(第2版)[M].北京：清华大学出版社,2005,5：26-35.
[43]苗凤香,戴鸿,刘驰,丁旭东.文胸下扒纸样绘制方法的探讨[J].天津工业大学学报,2009,28(02)：41-43.