三维模拟人体在优化文胸结构设计中的运用
摘要
文胸作为女性最贴体的服装之一,经过百年的发展,健康和舒适已成为其设计的基准。合适的文胸在保护、支撑女性乳房的同时使女性体态挺拔、富有曲线美。因此以女性胸部特征为基准研究文胸设计具有重要的意义。
起步于20世纪80年代的中国内衣业,在文胸设计,版型研究上还远远落后欧、美、日等发达国家。不多的内衣设计人才和版型设计人才已无法满足中国内衣业迅速发展的要求,有关文胸纸样设计理论的研究亦进行的较少。
文胸样板设计的合理性,必须通过真人模特的试穿来检验,该过程需要人力、物力和时间的大量付出,在一定程度上限制了文胸样板设计向高水平发展。以促进文胸版型技术的提高为目标,本课题对文胸原型样板设计优化开展研究,尝试用三维模拟人体模特取代传统真人模特进行文胸样板设计,建立符合实际的文胸样板设计理论。
论文以华东地区青年女性的测体数据为依据,建立女性胸部乳房的数学模型,将乳房数学模型从三维向二维转换,推导出二维纸样的省道量和省道角大小,采用东华原型纸样与理论省道角相结合得到文胸原型纸样。利用3D-CAD系统的模拟试衣功能,将其三维模拟人体模特的身体特征数据设定与国家标准相符,得到虚拟标准人体模特。
As the underwear industry of China began from 1980's, its' bra style design and patternmaking lag a lot from European counties which are sophisticated at bra design. Many Chinese underwear industry confirmed that the shortness of qualified bra designer and patternmaker low down the development speed of enterprise. Because the human factors are critical in the structural design of bra, the reasonability of bra structural design should be judged by models trying on. Such process requites high cost of human resources,money and time, those that many Chinese companies cannot afford.The purpose of this thesis was to use 3D body model to optimize bra structural design and pattern development.Through studying east-china women' breasts measurement datum, sets up a three-dimension model of breast, and discuss the relation between 3D-2D transformation and bra structure from the point of Ergonomics.
On the basis of prototype pattern, develop a prototype bra pattern as input the theory results of 3D-2D transformation. The structure of prototype bra pattern was modified by virtual stitched and putted on a virtual 3D body model which produced on the standard characteristics parameter of Chinese women, then manufacture a true bra according to the prototype bra pattern. At last a performance evaluation wear of the prototype bra was carried on by real person.This article suggests that the application of virtual design technology may simplify the process of bra design and manufacture. It was the first evaluation study of visualization technology in fashion industry.
起步于20世纪80年代的中国内衣业,在文胸设计,版型研究上还远远落后欧、美、日等发达国家。不多的内衣设计人才和版型设计人才已无法满足中国内衣业迅速发展的要求,有关文胸纸样设计理论的研究亦进行的较少。
文胸样板设计的合理性,必须通过真人模特的试穿来检验,该过程需要人力、物力和时间的大量付出,在一定程度上限制了文胸样板设计向高水平发展。以促进文胸版型技术的提高为目标,本课题对文胸原型样板设计优化开展研究,尝试用三维模拟人体模特取代传统真人模特进行文胸样板设计,建立符合实际的文胸样板设计理论。
论文以华东地区青年女性的测体数据为依据,建立女性胸部乳房的数学模型,将乳房数学模型从三维向二维转换,推导出二维纸样的省道量和省道角大小,采用东华原型纸样与理论省道角相结合得到文胸原型纸样。利用3D-CAD系统的模拟试衣功能,将其三维模拟人体模特的身体特征数据设定与国家标准相符,得到虚拟标准人体模特。
As the underwear industry of China began from 1980's, its' bra style design and patternmaking lag a lot from European counties which are sophisticated at bra design. Many Chinese underwear industry confirmed that the shortness of qualified bra designer and patternmaker low down the development speed of enterprise. Because the human factors are critical in the structural design of bra, the reasonability of bra structural design should be judged by models trying on. Such process requites high cost of human resources,money and time, those that many Chinese companies cannot afford.The purpose of this thesis was to use 3D body model to optimize bra structural design and pattern development.Through studying east-china women' breasts measurement datum, sets up a three-dimension model of breast, and discuss the relation between 3D-2D transformation and bra structure from the point of Ergonomics.
On the basis of prototype pattern, develop a prototype bra pattern as input the theory results of 3D-2D transformation. The structure of prototype bra pattern was modified by virtual stitched and putted on a virtual 3D body model which produced on the standard characteristics parameter of Chinese women, then manufacture a true bra according to the prototype bra pattern. At last a performance evaluation wear of the prototype bra was carried on by real person.This article suggests that the application of virtual design technology may simplify the process of bra design and manufacture. It was the first evaluation study of visualization technology in fashion industry.
引文
[1] (美)玛莉莲·亚隆著,何颖怡译,乳房的历史,北京:华龄出版社,2001.10,218～238
[2] 马路,内衣之内:女性半公开的隐私,长春:北方妇女儿章出版社,2005
[3] CreationS lingerie, September-October 2005, 268
[4] 袁名松、迟毅林、张淼,虚拟设计发展现状及未来发展方向,昆明理工大学学报 (理工版),2002(5):21～25.
[5] 朱英,数字化服装技术研究[硕士学位论文],东华大学信息学院,2004
[6] 赵晋宇、张瑞云、李汝勤,纺织品虚拟设计方法,纺织学报,2004(4):117～119
[7] (德)施普尔·克劳舍著,宁汝新等译,虚拟产品开发技术,机械工业出版社,2000
[8] 张阿维、雷晓凤,虚拟产品设计技术研究,纺织器材,2002,29 (4):56～58
[9] 马晓宇、冯毅力,三维服装模拟技术的研究进展,纺织学报,2004 (4):122～124
[10] 陆永良,李汝勤,胡金莲,虚拟服装的发展历史和现状 [J],纺织学报2005,26 (1):132～134
[11] 周丽华,数字化技术—21世纪服装业发展的必然趋势 [J],山东纺织科2004,(1):38～40
[12] 由芳,三维CAD中的变形体造型方法研究及应用,[博士学位论文],中山大学,2003
[13] 高成英,三维虚拟服装造型与动态仿真技术研究,[博士学位论文],中山大学,2003
[14] D. E. Breen, Computer graphics in textiles and apparel modeling, IEEE Computer Graphics and Applications, 1996, 16 (5): 26～27
[15] Paouri A, Thalmann N M, Thalmann D, Creating Realistic Three-Dimensional Human Shape Characters for Computer-Generated Films, Computer Animation'91, Heidelberg: SpringerVerlag, 1991: 89～99
[16] Thalmann N K, Miinh H T, De Angelis M, et al, Design Transformation and Animation of Human Faces, Visual Computer, 1989 (5): 32～39
[17] 钟世镇,数字化虚拟人体研究现状和展望,解放军医学杂志 2003年5月,385～389
[18] 徐军,虚拟三维服装研究技术及发展,西安工程科技学院服装学院,710048
[19] Jane Farrell-Beck, et al, Brassieres and Women's Health from 1863 to 1940, Clothing and Textile Research Journal, 16 (3), 105～115
[20] 印建荣、常建亮,内衣纸样设计原理,上海:上海科学技术出版社,2004.6:38～42
[21] (美)阿姆斯特朗著;张浩,郑嵘译,美国经典立体裁剪·提高篇,北京:中国纺织出版社,2003.1:484～486
[22] 中泽愈,人体与服装,北京:中国纺织出版社,2000.4,152
[23] 刘菁,轻松买对内衣,北京:农村读物社,2005.2
[24] 张道英,上海地区青年女性文胸基本样板的研究,[服装结构与设计工程硕士学位论文],东华大学,2005
[25] 王文玲,上海地区青年女性内衣人台研究,[服装结构与设计工程硕士学位论文],东华大学,2005
[26] 杨文茂、李全英,空间解析几何,武昌:武汉大学出版社
[27] http://www.math.sinia.edu.tw
[28] 胡晓俐,补正内衣结构设计原理与生理反应研究,[服装结构与设计工程硕士学位论文],东华大学
[29] 张文斌、张渭源,中国服装原型——东华原型结构设计原理和技术,东华大学学报 (自然科学版),2002.6,44～49
[30] (英)哈格著,北京服装学院爱慕人体工学研究所译,内衣、泳装、沙滩装 及休闲服纸样设计,北京:中国纺织出版社,2001.8,65～69
[31] (美)苏姗乐芙、凯伦林塞著,章乐虹译,乳房圣经,湖南科学技术出版社,2004.7:16
[32] Grace Krenzer, Cathy Starr, Donna Branson, Development of a Sports Bra Prototype, 2005 INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE AND APPAREL ASSOCIATION, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, (23), 133～134
[2] 马路,内衣之内:女性半公开的隐私,长春:北方妇女儿章出版社,2005
[3] CreationS lingerie, September-October 2005, 268
[4] 袁名松、迟毅林、张淼,虚拟设计发展现状及未来发展方向,昆明理工大学学报 (理工版),2002(5):21～25.
[5] 朱英,数字化服装技术研究[硕士学位论文],东华大学信息学院,2004
[6] 赵晋宇、张瑞云、李汝勤,纺织品虚拟设计方法,纺织学报,2004(4):117～119
[7] (德)施普尔·克劳舍著,宁汝新等译,虚拟产品开发技术,机械工业出版社,2000
[8] 张阿维、雷晓凤,虚拟产品设计技术研究,纺织器材,2002,29 (4):56～58
[9] 马晓宇、冯毅力,三维服装模拟技术的研究进展,纺织学报,2004 (4):122～124
[10] 陆永良,李汝勤,胡金莲,虚拟服装的发展历史和现状 [J],纺织学报2005,26 (1):132～134
[11] 周丽华,数字化技术—21世纪服装业发展的必然趋势 [J],山东纺织科2004,(1):38～40
[12] 由芳,三维CAD中的变形体造型方法研究及应用,[博士学位论文],中山大学,2003
[13] 高成英,三维虚拟服装造型与动态仿真技术研究,[博士学位论文],中山大学,2003
[14] D. E. Breen, Computer graphics in textiles and apparel modeling, IEEE Computer Graphics and Applications, 1996, 16 (5): 26～27
[15] Paouri A, Thalmann N M, Thalmann D, Creating Realistic Three-Dimensional Human Shape Characters for Computer-Generated Films, Computer Animation'91, Heidelberg: SpringerVerlag, 1991: 89～99
[16] Thalmann N K, Miinh H T, De Angelis M, et al, Design Transformation and Animation of Human Faces, Visual Computer, 1989 (5): 32～39
[17] 钟世镇,数字化虚拟人体研究现状和展望,解放军医学杂志 2003年5月,385～389
[18] 徐军,虚拟三维服装研究技术及发展,西安工程科技学院服装学院,710048
[19] Jane Farrell-Beck, et al, Brassieres and Women's Health from 1863 to 1940, Clothing and Textile Research Journal, 16 (3), 105～115
[20] 印建荣、常建亮,内衣纸样设计原理,上海:上海科学技术出版社,2004.6:38～42
[21] (美)阿姆斯特朗著;张浩,郑嵘译,美国经典立体裁剪·提高篇,北京:中国纺织出版社,2003.1:484～486
[22] 中泽愈,人体与服装,北京:中国纺织出版社,2000.4,152
[23] 刘菁,轻松买对内衣,北京:农村读物社,2005.2
[24] 张道英,上海地区青年女性文胸基本样板的研究,[服装结构与设计工程硕士学位论文],东华大学,2005
[25] 王文玲,上海地区青年女性内衣人台研究,[服装结构与设计工程硕士学位论文],东华大学,2005
[26] 杨文茂、李全英,空间解析几何,武昌:武汉大学出版社
[27] http://www.math.sinia.edu.tw
[28] 胡晓俐,补正内衣结构设计原理与生理反应研究,[服装结构与设计工程硕士学位论文],东华大学
[29] 张文斌、张渭源,中国服装原型——东华原型结构设计原理和技术,东华大学学报 (自然科学版),2002.6,44～49
[30] (英)哈格著,北京服装学院爱慕人体工学研究所译,内衣、泳装、沙滩装 及休闲服纸样设计,北京:中国纺织出版社,2001.8,65～69
[31] (美)苏姗乐芙、凯伦林塞著,章乐虹译,乳房圣经,湖南科学技术出版社,2004.7:16
[32] Grace Krenzer, Cathy Starr, Donna Branson, Development of a Sports Bra Prototype, 2005 INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE AND APPAREL ASSOCIATION, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, (23), 133～134