基于曲面造型技术的文胸结构设计研究
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摘要
随着经济的发展和时代的进步,人们对服装的鉴赏水平越来越高。服装消费者对“穿衣要合体”的意识十分强烈,合体性已经被广泛地认为是影响服装外观及服装可销售性能的最重要的因素,它甚至超过了服装的款式、色彩、结构、价格及面料的质地。
文胸,用于舒适地承托和塑造女性魅力胸脯的基础内衣,是女性内衣中最复杂的产品之一,优美合身的文胸,不仅自身迷人,能改善穿着者的身形和外观,而且直接影响女性的身心健康。然而,杂志、电台报道过多年,约80%的女性正穿戴着与人体的生理变化休戚相关的不合体文胸,医学界更有报道,许多文胸原以为是承托乳房的护身符,却相反地成了折磨、伤害、压迫、以至歪曲乳房的元凶,疼痛、不适等一连串的胸部疾病来之不合体尤其是过紧的罩杯。因此,近年来人们对文胸合体性和塑形性的健康美要求和关注程度远远胜于外衣,文胸的度身定制或批量定制的需求势不可挡。
影响文胸合体性的因素诸多,如人体体型、文胸尺寸、板样形态与结构、面辅料结构与特性、缝制工艺流程、缝制性能、质量控制等等。良好的文胸定制服务首先依赖于对女性人体体型尤其是女性胸部形态的深入研究与分析,只有先行人体测量和人体体型分析的基础工作,建立文胸尺寸与人体部位参数的对应匹配关系,才能获得后期实用性和延伸性的应用开发,为此,探究女性胸形的表征方法、结构特点和变化规律是本课题的研究重点之一。
根据文献和实际调研,发现在影响文胸合体性的诸多因素中,文胸板型的科学合理设计是直接决定文胸贴体的关键元素,正如Dobson在1885年的精辟论言,服装结构设计是使服装最精确地符合人体的最简洁手段,是服装成型艺术中最高技术的象征。传统获取合体文胸纸样的方法,不是直接在人台上通过立裁手段,就是根据个人经验运用平面方法再结合立裁,最终几乎都是在反复试验的基础上确认合体纸样,因没有科学理论作指导,文胸结构设计成了内衣领域的一大瓶颈工序和高难度技术。本课题在上海市科委科研计划项目:中欧合作电子化量身定制服装——eMTM关键技术研究的支持下,结合华歌尔·东华人体计测等项目,运用人体工学原理和三维计算机等技术,重点探索基于曲面造型技术的参数化文胸结构设计方法,研究文胸结构设计参数与女性胸形参数的对应关系及对文胸合体的有效性,这对文胸板型设计朝客户化、智能化方向发展具有现实和深远的意义。课题涉及服装人体工学、人体测量学、人体解剖学、服装造型设计学、三维人体扫描、曲面造型技术、自由变形等计算机技术的综合理论和实践,是学科交叉的研究产物。
①通过对青年女性胸形测量的随机抽样调查,在使用SPSS统计软件分析基础上,揭示青年女性胸形结构特征和不同罩杯女性胸部的变化规律,运用主成分分析法,确定了表征女性胸部的五个主要因子,即乳房丰度因子,胸围形态因子,乳房细部形态因子,乳房定位因子和躯干围度变化因子,为文胸纸样设计提供了基础数据。
②由皮尔逊相关分析和回归分析方法科学合理地提取了客户化定制文胸结构设计必需的人体体型对应参数为胸围A_2、下胸围A_3、乳房横径B_1、乳房垂直深度B_2、胸高与下胸高差B_3、乳房表面弧长B_4、下奶杯长B_5、乳房根围B_6、胸围与下胸围差E_1、下胸围与腰围差E_2、胸腰差E_3、下胸高与腰高差H_9、乳点间距L_1、乳根点间距L_2、乳房根围间距L_3、乳点到下胸围线的斜线距离L_4、颈侧点到乳点间距L_5、肩点到乳点间距L_7和胸宽W_1,可见文胸结构设计不仅涉及乳房形态参数,而且与人体颈至腰节的躯干段参数有关;建立了相关控制变量线性回归数学模型,即用少量已知基本部位:下胸围A_3和胸差E_1来反映其它控制部位相关变量,奠定了良好的批量生产文胸结构设计理论基础。
③经由统计数据验证女性乳房形态假设的基础上,构建了青年女性理想胸形模型,运用解析几何和数值分析方法,利用LabVIEW软件开发平台,创建了一种基于乳房特征参数获取文胸罩杯省量参数的方法,为青年女性解决了文胸罩杯结构设计的关键技术,减少了反复试样文胸设计过程。
④三维女性胸部模型是设计合体文胸的基础和必备条件,然而,储备足够的真实人模既昂贵又不太现实。本课题首先研究了一种实现交互式个性化三维抽象女性胸形库的新方法,基于三维人体表面扫描数据和B样条曲面造型技术进行人体躯干即基本胸形建模;运用广泛应用于计算机图形学和几何建模领域的经改良后赋以权重的自由变形技术,设计多层次胸部模型,交互输入新人体躯干特征参数:胸围,下胸围,胸点间距,胸高,胸高差,腰围,腰高,肩宽,肩高,胸部权重等,得到变形并模拟为期望的特定人体的自然胸形或模拟文胸塑型后的个性化三维胸形,发展形成个性化抽象女性胸形库,为度身定制合体文胸的款式和纸样设计提供最基础及必要的三维直观信息;然后,依据面积等效原理、通过三角剖分人体表面和选取独特的扇形基准轴线展开方式,在三维虚拟胸形环境中展开二维罩杯,科学地预测了个性化罩杯省量,并首次提供了罩杯省量分布细化方案,罩杯省量主要分布在曲率变化较大的乳房下半部和胸围线上,罩杯省形为弧线,揭示了罩杯最佳T分割规律的理论依据,区别于以往的主观经验判断、反复试验的做法,适合各种胸形,真正解决了个性化文胸罩杯结构设计的技术问题。
⑤通过对文胸结构设计现有方法和技术的剖析,运用曲面造型技术和三维与二维的转换方法,创建了以胸部特征参数为自变量的文胸度身定制和批量定制结构设计方法,首创了以人为本确定文胸托台和后拉片倾度等结构设计公式,建立了文胸样板参数与人体部位参数间的对应关系,真正实现了合体文胸参数化结构设计。
⑥在综合文胸内衣行业技术特征的基础上,由专业人员共同参与,建立了评定文胸合体性的评判因素、检视程序、检视项目、检视要求和量化等级,采用美国运筹学教授Saaty提出的AHP层次分析方法,构造了通过“组合一致性”检验的评判因素组合权向量为:W=(0.035,0.432,0.203,0.099,0.231),依次代表文胸的肩带、罩杯、钢圈、心位和下围五个因素的权重;根据所建立的七级文胸合体性因素定量评判方法,由专家评定法生成评判矩阵,最后得到文胸合体性模糊综合主观评判模型。
为文胸结构设计方法奠定基石的青年女性理想胸模和三维抽象女性胸形库,能快速获取与之相配乳房结构的文胸罩杯省量,解决了文胸罩杯合体性差的关键技术问题,避免了储备大量实体胸模现状,降低了设计成本,提高了工作效率;首创的以胸部特征参数为自变量的文胸结构设计方法和确定文胸托台和后拉片倾度等样板公式,经验证能很好地满足客户化定制合体文胸的生产需求,为文胸CAD智能化制板铺垫了基础;文胸合体性模糊综合主观评判模型的创建,形成了一套完整的文胸穿着合体性定量评价体系,克服了传统的经验判断、多因素难以确定、非量化性模糊语言评价等缺陷,行之有效的评价体系与方法,能引导从业人员和消费者正确认识文胸合体性要求,对提升设计师的设计能力、文胸产品质量起到了积极推动作用。以上研究成果已申请了四项国家发明专利,填补了文胸结构设计和文胸着装评价领域理论空白。
With the economic growth and the epoch advancement, the garment can be appreciated by people better and better. The consciousness of well-fitted garment for the consumers is quite keen. Fit has been widely considered one of the most important factors which affect garment appearance and sale. So fit can be more important than style, color, construction, price and fabric for garment.
Bra, a foundation garment used to lift breast tissue and provide support, is one of the most complicated lingerie products. Beautiful and well-fitted bras are not only attractive in themselves; they can also improve the overall appearance of the wearer and impact women's health. However, the magazine and broadcasting station had reported for many years that about 80% women were wearing unfitted bras which were related to physiology. Moreover, it was reported medically that a bra originally as an amulet was a chief criminal of torturing and damaging breasts because of the tightened cups. Therefore, it is inevitable to make bra customization.
There are many factors of affecting bra fit, such as body form, bra size, pattern shape and structure, fabric properties, quality control, sewing process and performance, and etc. The first step of bra customization depends on investigating the customer's measurements and getting the corresponding relationship between the bra size and body parameters. So in this project one of the main tasks is to explore the method of symbolizing female breasts, breast performance and diversification regulation.
Based on the literature review and practice investigation, it was found that bra pattern was the key point to directly influence the bra fitting. As Dobson in 1885 described, garment pattern was the emblem of highest skill in the art of forming models. Those patterns were supposed to guide the simplest and most accurate way of fitting the human figure. However, Patterns for bras might be traditionally constructed by either 2D flat cutting on paper or by 3D modeling with fabric directly onto the mannequin. In the industry, pattern construction was usually based on empirical knowledge and this led to a time-consuming and cost-intensive process of trial and error in the development of new products. Bra pattern design had been a bottle neck process. In this paper, the method of parameterized bra pattern design based on the surface modeling technology was explored. Furthermore, the corresponding parameter relationship between bra pattern design and female breast as well as the effect of parameters on bra fitting were investigated. The scheme was supported by the planned project of scientific research in Shanghai scientific committee: the crucial technology research of the electronic Made To Measure Apparelcooperated by China and Europe -- eMTM and Wacol ? Donghua anthropometricproject. The study dealt with apparel anthropological engineering, anthropometry, anthropotomy, apparel formative design, three-dimensional body scan, surface modeling technology, free-form-deformation and etc. The research offspring was the results of multi-subject intersection.
①The character of young female breast form and variation regulation of different cups were revealed by spot check randomly and SPSS statistical analysis. Five main token factors of female breast form were established: breast plump factor, breast configuration factor, breast detailed shape factor, breast orientation factor and trunk girth variation factor. The results provided basic data and academic foundation for bra pattern design.
②The prerequisite corresponding parameters of body shape for bra pattern design were extracted scientifically by Pearson correlation analysis and regression analysis. The linear regression math models of the related control variable were established. They were the favorable foundations of mass-produced bra pattern design.
③On the basis of confirming the female breast form through statistic data, the young female optimal breast shape was built. The method of acquiring cup dart parameters based on the breast measurements was developed by LabVIEW software platform, analytic geometry and numerical value methods. It solved the pivot technical problem of bra cup pattern design for young women.
④It is necessary for bra pattern design to have a 3D female breast model. However, it is not realistic to keep physical dummies of different sizes. In this paper, a brand-new abstract breast model library was presented on the basis of 3D scan data and surface modeling technology for the first time. A very useful improved FFD technology with varying weight used in both computer animation and geometric modeling was skillfully transplanted to the female breast model deformation for bra design. The library focusing on the detailed individual variations in the shape and size of the female breast by interaction has a strong potential of being used for bra style, pattern design and bra fitting to meet "made-to-measure" demand of the booming bra market. Then according to the principle of isometric area and flabellate segments, the personalized bra cup dart quantity and its distributive information were provided by 3D-2D transformation. The cup darts were mainly distributed below the bust line. Moreover, dart shapes were curvy. The novel findings provided an important guideline for designers to improve the well-fitted bra pattern design technique.
⑤The parameterized bra pattern design based on surface modeling and 3D-2D transformation technologies was developed after analyzing the existed methods and techniques of bra pattern design. The formulae of the cradle, wing inclination and etc. for bra pattern design were first created. The corresponding parameter relationship between bra pattern design and female breast measurements was established. The method of fitted bra parameterized pattern design was truly realized.
⑥The check procedures, items, requirements, quantity scale and weighted vectors of assorted judge factors for evaluating bra fitting were established by integrating the character of intimate apparel technology and applying the method of Analytic HierarchyProcess presented by Saaty. W = (0.035,0.432,0.203,0.099,0.231) , which respectivelyindicated the weighted vectors of bra shoulder belt, cup, wire, gore and the bottom of wing. Finally, the fuzzy synthesized subjective evaluating model for bra fitting was built.
The detailed corresponding bra cup dart parameters could be quickly predicted from the young female optimal breast model and the individual 3D virtual female breast shape library which solved the crucial technical problem of bra pattern design. Furthermore, the database of visual female breast shape would reduce the manufacturing cost and improve the work efficiency without keeping physical dummies. Meanwhile, it was validated that the method of the parameterized bra pattern design and the created formulae of the cradle, wing inclination and etc. for bra pattern could meet "made-to-measure" demand of the booming bra market, which provided the foundation for intellectualized CAD bra pattern design. Moreover, a set of quantitative fuzzy integrated identification system for bra fitting was developed. The plan overcame the traditional shortages such as judging by experience, non-quantitative estimate language and etc. The scheme could guide people to recognize the right requirements for the well-fitted bra, develop the designer's abilities and product quality. The overall investigating results filled in the vacant theory of bra pattern design and bra fitting evaluation. And four national inventive patents had been applied for.
文胸,用于舒适地承托和塑造女性魅力胸脯的基础内衣,是女性内衣中最复杂的产品之一,优美合身的文胸,不仅自身迷人,能改善穿着者的身形和外观,而且直接影响女性的身心健康。然而,杂志、电台报道过多年,约80%的女性正穿戴着与人体的生理变化休戚相关的不合体文胸,医学界更有报道,许多文胸原以为是承托乳房的护身符,却相反地成了折磨、伤害、压迫、以至歪曲乳房的元凶,疼痛、不适等一连串的胸部疾病来之不合体尤其是过紧的罩杯。因此,近年来人们对文胸合体性和塑形性的健康美要求和关注程度远远胜于外衣,文胸的度身定制或批量定制的需求势不可挡。
影响文胸合体性的因素诸多,如人体体型、文胸尺寸、板样形态与结构、面辅料结构与特性、缝制工艺流程、缝制性能、质量控制等等。良好的文胸定制服务首先依赖于对女性人体体型尤其是女性胸部形态的深入研究与分析,只有先行人体测量和人体体型分析的基础工作,建立文胸尺寸与人体部位参数的对应匹配关系,才能获得后期实用性和延伸性的应用开发,为此,探究女性胸形的表征方法、结构特点和变化规律是本课题的研究重点之一。
根据文献和实际调研,发现在影响文胸合体性的诸多因素中,文胸板型的科学合理设计是直接决定文胸贴体的关键元素,正如Dobson在1885年的精辟论言,服装结构设计是使服装最精确地符合人体的最简洁手段,是服装成型艺术中最高技术的象征。传统获取合体文胸纸样的方法,不是直接在人台上通过立裁手段,就是根据个人经验运用平面方法再结合立裁,最终几乎都是在反复试验的基础上确认合体纸样,因没有科学理论作指导,文胸结构设计成了内衣领域的一大瓶颈工序和高难度技术。本课题在上海市科委科研计划项目:中欧合作电子化量身定制服装——eMTM关键技术研究的支持下,结合华歌尔·东华人体计测等项目,运用人体工学原理和三维计算机等技术,重点探索基于曲面造型技术的参数化文胸结构设计方法,研究文胸结构设计参数与女性胸形参数的对应关系及对文胸合体的有效性,这对文胸板型设计朝客户化、智能化方向发展具有现实和深远的意义。课题涉及服装人体工学、人体测量学、人体解剖学、服装造型设计学、三维人体扫描、曲面造型技术、自由变形等计算机技术的综合理论和实践,是学科交叉的研究产物。
①通过对青年女性胸形测量的随机抽样调查,在使用SPSS统计软件分析基础上,揭示青年女性胸形结构特征和不同罩杯女性胸部的变化规律,运用主成分分析法,确定了表征女性胸部的五个主要因子,即乳房丰度因子,胸围形态因子,乳房细部形态因子,乳房定位因子和躯干围度变化因子,为文胸纸样设计提供了基础数据。
②由皮尔逊相关分析和回归分析方法科学合理地提取了客户化定制文胸结构设计必需的人体体型对应参数为胸围A_2、下胸围A_3、乳房横径B_1、乳房垂直深度B_2、胸高与下胸高差B_3、乳房表面弧长B_4、下奶杯长B_5、乳房根围B_6、胸围与下胸围差E_1、下胸围与腰围差E_2、胸腰差E_3、下胸高与腰高差H_9、乳点间距L_1、乳根点间距L_2、乳房根围间距L_3、乳点到下胸围线的斜线距离L_4、颈侧点到乳点间距L_5、肩点到乳点间距L_7和胸宽W_1,可见文胸结构设计不仅涉及乳房形态参数,而且与人体颈至腰节的躯干段参数有关;建立了相关控制变量线性回归数学模型,即用少量已知基本部位:下胸围A_3和胸差E_1来反映其它控制部位相关变量,奠定了良好的批量生产文胸结构设计理论基础。
③经由统计数据验证女性乳房形态假设的基础上,构建了青年女性理想胸形模型,运用解析几何和数值分析方法,利用LabVIEW软件开发平台,创建了一种基于乳房特征参数获取文胸罩杯省量参数的方法,为青年女性解决了文胸罩杯结构设计的关键技术,减少了反复试样文胸设计过程。
④三维女性胸部模型是设计合体文胸的基础和必备条件,然而,储备足够的真实人模既昂贵又不太现实。本课题首先研究了一种实现交互式个性化三维抽象女性胸形库的新方法,基于三维人体表面扫描数据和B样条曲面造型技术进行人体躯干即基本胸形建模;运用广泛应用于计算机图形学和几何建模领域的经改良后赋以权重的自由变形技术,设计多层次胸部模型,交互输入新人体躯干特征参数:胸围,下胸围,胸点间距,胸高,胸高差,腰围,腰高,肩宽,肩高,胸部权重等,得到变形并模拟为期望的特定人体的自然胸形或模拟文胸塑型后的个性化三维胸形,发展形成个性化抽象女性胸形库,为度身定制合体文胸的款式和纸样设计提供最基础及必要的三维直观信息;然后,依据面积等效原理、通过三角剖分人体表面和选取独特的扇形基准轴线展开方式,在三维虚拟胸形环境中展开二维罩杯,科学地预测了个性化罩杯省量,并首次提供了罩杯省量分布细化方案,罩杯省量主要分布在曲率变化较大的乳房下半部和胸围线上,罩杯省形为弧线,揭示了罩杯最佳T分割规律的理论依据,区别于以往的主观经验判断、反复试验的做法,适合各种胸形,真正解决了个性化文胸罩杯结构设计的技术问题。
⑤通过对文胸结构设计现有方法和技术的剖析,运用曲面造型技术和三维与二维的转换方法,创建了以胸部特征参数为自变量的文胸度身定制和批量定制结构设计方法,首创了以人为本确定文胸托台和后拉片倾度等结构设计公式,建立了文胸样板参数与人体部位参数间的对应关系,真正实现了合体文胸参数化结构设计。
⑥在综合文胸内衣行业技术特征的基础上,由专业人员共同参与,建立了评定文胸合体性的评判因素、检视程序、检视项目、检视要求和量化等级,采用美国运筹学教授Saaty提出的AHP层次分析方法,构造了通过“组合一致性”检验的评判因素组合权向量为:W=(0.035,0.432,0.203,0.099,0.231),依次代表文胸的肩带、罩杯、钢圈、心位和下围五个因素的权重;根据所建立的七级文胸合体性因素定量评判方法,由专家评定法生成评判矩阵,最后得到文胸合体性模糊综合主观评判模型。
为文胸结构设计方法奠定基石的青年女性理想胸模和三维抽象女性胸形库,能快速获取与之相配乳房结构的文胸罩杯省量,解决了文胸罩杯合体性差的关键技术问题,避免了储备大量实体胸模现状,降低了设计成本,提高了工作效率;首创的以胸部特征参数为自变量的文胸结构设计方法和确定文胸托台和后拉片倾度等样板公式,经验证能很好地满足客户化定制合体文胸的生产需求,为文胸CAD智能化制板铺垫了基础;文胸合体性模糊综合主观评判模型的创建,形成了一套完整的文胸穿着合体性定量评价体系,克服了传统的经验判断、多因素难以确定、非量化性模糊语言评价等缺陷,行之有效的评价体系与方法,能引导从业人员和消费者正确认识文胸合体性要求,对提升设计师的设计能力、文胸产品质量起到了积极推动作用。以上研究成果已申请了四项国家发明专利,填补了文胸结构设计和文胸着装评价领域理论空白。
With the economic growth and the epoch advancement, the garment can be appreciated by people better and better. The consciousness of well-fitted garment for the consumers is quite keen. Fit has been widely considered one of the most important factors which affect garment appearance and sale. So fit can be more important than style, color, construction, price and fabric for garment.
Bra, a foundation garment used to lift breast tissue and provide support, is one of the most complicated lingerie products. Beautiful and well-fitted bras are not only attractive in themselves; they can also improve the overall appearance of the wearer and impact women's health. However, the magazine and broadcasting station had reported for many years that about 80% women were wearing unfitted bras which were related to physiology. Moreover, it was reported medically that a bra originally as an amulet was a chief criminal of torturing and damaging breasts because of the tightened cups. Therefore, it is inevitable to make bra customization.
There are many factors of affecting bra fit, such as body form, bra size, pattern shape and structure, fabric properties, quality control, sewing process and performance, and etc. The first step of bra customization depends on investigating the customer's measurements and getting the corresponding relationship between the bra size and body parameters. So in this project one of the main tasks is to explore the method of symbolizing female breasts, breast performance and diversification regulation.
Based on the literature review and practice investigation, it was found that bra pattern was the key point to directly influence the bra fitting. As Dobson in 1885 described, garment pattern was the emblem of highest skill in the art of forming models. Those patterns were supposed to guide the simplest and most accurate way of fitting the human figure. However, Patterns for bras might be traditionally constructed by either 2D flat cutting on paper or by 3D modeling with fabric directly onto the mannequin. In the industry, pattern construction was usually based on empirical knowledge and this led to a time-consuming and cost-intensive process of trial and error in the development of new products. Bra pattern design had been a bottle neck process. In this paper, the method of parameterized bra pattern design based on the surface modeling technology was explored. Furthermore, the corresponding parameter relationship between bra pattern design and female breast as well as the effect of parameters on bra fitting were investigated. The scheme was supported by the planned project of scientific research in Shanghai scientific committee: the crucial technology research of the electronic Made To Measure Apparelcooperated by China and Europe -- eMTM and Wacol ? Donghua anthropometricproject. The study dealt with apparel anthropological engineering, anthropometry, anthropotomy, apparel formative design, three-dimensional body scan, surface modeling technology, free-form-deformation and etc. The research offspring was the results of multi-subject intersection.
①The character of young female breast form and variation regulation of different cups were revealed by spot check randomly and SPSS statistical analysis. Five main token factors of female breast form were established: breast plump factor, breast configuration factor, breast detailed shape factor, breast orientation factor and trunk girth variation factor. The results provided basic data and academic foundation for bra pattern design.
②The prerequisite corresponding parameters of body shape for bra pattern design were extracted scientifically by Pearson correlation analysis and regression analysis. The linear regression math models of the related control variable were established. They were the favorable foundations of mass-produced bra pattern design.
③On the basis of confirming the female breast form through statistic data, the young female optimal breast shape was built. The method of acquiring cup dart parameters based on the breast measurements was developed by LabVIEW software platform, analytic geometry and numerical value methods. It solved the pivot technical problem of bra cup pattern design for young women.
④It is necessary for bra pattern design to have a 3D female breast model. However, it is not realistic to keep physical dummies of different sizes. In this paper, a brand-new abstract breast model library was presented on the basis of 3D scan data and surface modeling technology for the first time. A very useful improved FFD technology with varying weight used in both computer animation and geometric modeling was skillfully transplanted to the female breast model deformation for bra design. The library focusing on the detailed individual variations in the shape and size of the female breast by interaction has a strong potential of being used for bra style, pattern design and bra fitting to meet "made-to-measure" demand of the booming bra market. Then according to the principle of isometric area and flabellate segments, the personalized bra cup dart quantity and its distributive information were provided by 3D-2D transformation. The cup darts were mainly distributed below the bust line. Moreover, dart shapes were curvy. The novel findings provided an important guideline for designers to improve the well-fitted bra pattern design technique.
⑤The parameterized bra pattern design based on surface modeling and 3D-2D transformation technologies was developed after analyzing the existed methods and techniques of bra pattern design. The formulae of the cradle, wing inclination and etc. for bra pattern design were first created. The corresponding parameter relationship between bra pattern design and female breast measurements was established. The method of fitted bra parameterized pattern design was truly realized.
⑥The check procedures, items, requirements, quantity scale and weighted vectors of assorted judge factors for evaluating bra fitting were established by integrating the character of intimate apparel technology and applying the method of Analytic HierarchyProcess presented by Saaty. W = (0.035,0.432,0.203,0.099,0.231) , which respectivelyindicated the weighted vectors of bra shoulder belt, cup, wire, gore and the bottom of wing. Finally, the fuzzy synthesized subjective evaluating model for bra fitting was built.
The detailed corresponding bra cup dart parameters could be quickly predicted from the young female optimal breast model and the individual 3D virtual female breast shape library which solved the crucial technical problem of bra pattern design. Furthermore, the database of visual female breast shape would reduce the manufacturing cost and improve the work efficiency without keeping physical dummies. Meanwhile, it was validated that the method of the parameterized bra pattern design and the created formulae of the cradle, wing inclination and etc. for bra pattern could meet "made-to-measure" demand of the booming bra market, which provided the foundation for intellectualized CAD bra pattern design. Moreover, a set of quantitative fuzzy integrated identification system for bra fitting was developed. The plan overcame the traditional shortages such as judging by experience, non-quantitative estimate language and etc. The scheme could guide people to recognize the right requirements for the well-fitted bra, develop the designer's abilities and product quality. The overall investigating results filled in the vacant theory of bra pattern design and bra fitting evaluation. And four national inventive patents had been applied for.
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[18]王建萍,张渭源,内衣针织面料缝迹性能研究,针织工业,No.12,2006,21-23
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