大五人格、卷入与服装意象风格之研究
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摘要
人格特质和产品卷入在影响服装意象风格中或许起着较显著的作用。本研究对550名大学在校生进行了大五人格量表、服装卷入量表和服装风格意象量表的问卷调查。在五大特质中，尽责性和外向性两大人格特质都与服装卷入正相关。大五人格特质解释了多层次意象风格2.8%的变异，解释了沉静的意象风格9.9%的变异，解释了娇柔的意象风格2.2%的变异，解释了前卫的意象风格5.0%的变异，服装卷入解释了多层次意象风格3.0%的变异，解释了沉静的意象风格1.6%的变异，解释了娇柔的意象风格5.1%的变异，解释了前卫的意象风格11.6%的变异。这些结果表明人格特质和服装卷入在解释服装意象风格中有一定的贡献。进一步研究表明服装卷入在外向性人格特质与服装意象风格（沉静的和前卫的服装意象风格）中起中介作用。眼动结果进一步表明：外向性的学生较看重前卫风格衣服的衣领、沉静风格衣服的衣长、热情风格衣服的衣领和衣廓；内向性的学生较看重保守风格衣服的衣袖；高开放性的学生较看重前卫风格的衣廓；低开放性的学生较看重前卫风格的衣领；高宜人性的学生较看重娇柔风格的衣袖、阳刚风格的衣长、简单风格的衣长；高卷入的学生较看重前卫风格的衣领、保守风格的衣长、沉静风格的衣领、热情风格的衣领和衣长、娇柔风格的衣袖、阳刚风格的衣长、个性化的衣肩、多层次风格的衣长；低卷入的学生较看重大众化风格衣服的衣廓、个性化风格衣服衣长、简单风格衣服的衣廓。
Personality and product involvement are both likely to play significant roles ininfluencing clothing style in image.College students (550undergraduates) completed theFive Factor Inventory and the Inventory of Clothing Involvement and the Inventory ofClothing Style in Image. Two of the Big Five traits, conscientiousness and extraversion, werepositively related with clothing involvement. The Big Five together explained2.8%of thevariance in much graduational clothing style in image,9.9%of the variance in quiet clothingstyle in image,2.2%of the variance in mild clothing style in image and learning stylesexplained,5.0%of the variance in vangard clothing style in image and clothinginvolvement explained an additional3%,1.6%,5.1%,11.6%,suggesting that both personalitytraits and clothing involvement contribute to clothing style in image. Further, therelationship between extraversion and clothing style in image(quiet clothing style in imageand vangard clothing style in image) was mediated by clothing involvement. At the sametime,the results,eye-movement experiment about pictures of clothing style in image,suggestthat students with high extraversion、low openness and high clothing involvement moreregarding as important the collar of vangard clothing, with high openness more regardingas important the outline of vangard clothing, with low extraversion more regarding asimportant the gusset of conservative clothing,with high clothing involvement moreregarding as important the length of conservative clothing, with high extraversion moreregarding as important the length of quiet clothing, with high clothing involvement moreregarding as important the collar of quiet clothing, with high clothing involvement moreregarding as important the collar and lenth of enthusiasic clothing, with high extraversionmore regarding as important the collar and outline of enthusiasic clothing, with highagreeableness and high clothing involvement more regarding as important the gusset ofmild clothing, with high agreeableness and high clothing involvement more regarding asimportant the lenth of manliness clothing, with low clothing involvement more regarding asimportant the outline of general clothing, with low clothing involvement more regarding as important the lenth of bardian clothing, with high clothing involvement more regarding asimportant the shoulder of bardian clothing, with high clothing involvement more regarding asimportant the lenth of much graduational clothing, with high agreeableness more regardingas important the lenth of simple clothing, with low clothing involvement more regarding asimportant the outline of simple clothing.
Personality and product involvement are both likely to play significant roles ininfluencing clothing style in image.College students (550undergraduates) completed theFive Factor Inventory and the Inventory of Clothing Involvement and the Inventory ofClothing Style in Image. Two of the Big Five traits, conscientiousness and extraversion, werepositively related with clothing involvement. The Big Five together explained2.8%of thevariance in much graduational clothing style in image,9.9%of the variance in quiet clothingstyle in image,2.2%of the variance in mild clothing style in image and learning stylesexplained,5.0%of the variance in vangard clothing style in image and clothinginvolvement explained an additional3%,1.6%,5.1%,11.6%,suggesting that both personalitytraits and clothing involvement contribute to clothing style in image. Further, therelationship between extraversion and clothing style in image(quiet clothing style in imageand vangard clothing style in image) was mediated by clothing involvement. At the sametime,the results,eye-movement experiment about pictures of clothing style in image,suggestthat students with high extraversion、low openness and high clothing involvement moreregarding as important the collar of vangard clothing, with high openness more regardingas important the outline of vangard clothing, with low extraversion more regarding asimportant the gusset of conservative clothing,with high clothing involvement moreregarding as important the length of conservative clothing, with high extraversion moreregarding as important the length of quiet clothing, with high clothing involvement moreregarding as important the collar of quiet clothing, with high clothing involvement moreregarding as important the collar and lenth of enthusiasic clothing, with high extraversionmore regarding as important the collar and outline of enthusiasic clothing, with highagreeableness and high clothing involvement more regarding as important the gusset ofmild clothing, with high agreeableness and high clothing involvement more regarding asimportant the lenth of manliness clothing, with low clothing involvement more regarding asimportant the outline of general clothing, with low clothing involvement more regarding as important the lenth of bardian clothing, with high clothing involvement more regarding asimportant the shoulder of bardian clothing, with high clothing involvement more regarding asimportant the lenth of much graduational clothing, with high agreeableness more regardingas important the lenth of simple clothing, with low clothing involvement more regarding asimportant the outline of simple clothing.
引文
[1]林荣泰.生活风格的创造与体验设计[J].艺术欣赏,2009，（1）：26-32.
[2]转自Antonio Lanzotti. A Statistical Thinking Approach to Kansei Engineering for Product Innovation[J]. Pietro Tarantino,2008,9-10.
[3] Norman, D.A.: Emotional Design: Why We Love (or Hate) Everyday Things. Basic[M]Books, New York,2004:242-247.
[4]吕清夫.造型原理[M].台北：雄狮图书股份有限公司，1991，16-19.
[5]林书荛.基本造形学[M].台北：三民书局股份有限公司，1991，48-50.
[6]罗仕鉴，朱上上.用户的产品造型产品风格感性认知研究[J].包装工程,2005（3）：179-180.
[7]王凯，孙守迁，杨颖.基于风格描述的产品外形设计［J］.包装工程，2005(2):148-150.
[8]葛彦，刘国联.大学生男T恤衫感性形象特征分析[J].丝绸.2006(5):10-11.
[9]江影，刘国联. T恤衫感性需求调研分析[J].纺织学报.2006(2):30-34.
[10]王宇宏. T恤衫感性评价与消费行为研究[D].江苏:苏州大学硕士学位论文.2006.
[11]江影，刘国联.基于穿着者感性认知的服装款式感性研究[J].纺织学报.2007(11):104-105.
[12]王凯.产品造型风格意象认知的研究[D].浙江:浙江大学硕士学位论文.2004.
[13]刘云筠.认知与服装[D].山东:青岛大学硕士学位论文.2009.
[14]周伏平,刘国联.大学生夏季裙子感性形象分析[J].东华大学学报，2008(4):333-334.
[15]王莹，陈雁．冬季女外套款式感性研究和应用[J]．纺织学报。2007（11)：97—100．
[16]沈岳，杨佑国.大学生校服感性评价分析[J].广西纺织科技,2008(3):48-49.
[17]徐惠娟.基于Chanel女上装的造型特征及意象空间研究[D].浙江：浙江理工大学硕士学位论文.2006.
[18] Costa, P. T.,&McCrae, R. R. NEO PI-R: Professional Manual: Revised NEO PI-Rand NEO-FFI[M]. Florida: Psychological Assessment Resources, Inc，1992.
[19] Poropat, A. E.. A meta-analysis of the five-factor model of personality andacademic performance[J]. Psychological Bulletin,2009135,322–338.
[20]Aluja,Rossier. Comparsion of the NEO-FFI, the NEO-FFI-R and alternative short verstion of theNEO-FFI-R (NEO-60)in Swiss amd Spanish samples[J]. Personality and Individual Difference,2005,38:591-604.
[21]Kapferer, J. N. Comsumer Involvement Profiles: A New Practical Approach to Comsumer Involvement[J].Journal of Advertising Research,2005,25:48-56.
[22] Cosbey, S., Damhorst, M. L.,&Farrell-Beck, J. Development of instrument for a visual analysis ofdress from pictorial evidence[J]. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal,2002,20(2):110-124.
[23] Morgado, M. A. The semiotics of extraordinary dress: A structural analysis and interpretation ofHip-Hop style[J]. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal,2007,25(2):131-155.
[24] Owyong, Y. S. M. Clothing semiotics and the social construction of power relations[J].SocialSemiotics,2009,19(2):191-211.
[25] Spiegler, M. Marketing street culture: Bring hip-hop style to the mainstream. AmericanDemographics[J],1996,18(11):29-34.
[26] Tyner, K.,&Ogle, J. P. Feminist perspectives on dress and the body: An analysis of Ms.Magazine,1972to2002. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal,2007,25(1):74-105.
[27]林家旭.以生活型态观探讨服装风格与意象认知差异研究[J].台南女院学报,2005,24:71-85.
[28] Chuang, M. C.,&Kao, C. H. Exploring the image of products made in Taiwan[J]. Journal ofDesign,1997,2(2):37-53.
[29]Jhang, Y. C., Chuang, M. C., Jhu, B. S., Jhuang Shen, S. R.,&Hong, S. H. A study on the style imageof apparel design[G]. Proceedings of the8th CID Annual Design Conference (B-5–B-10). Taipei:ChineseInstitute of Design.2003.
[30]Chang, W. C.,&Lin, M. H. A comparison study between the product form image and product formfeature[J]. Journal of Design,2004,9(3):59-70.
[31]Chen, S. P. The influence of consumer life styles, degree of consumer purchase involvement andpreferences for advertisement appeals on the advertising effects: The women’s magazine as an example[D].Jiayi county, Taiwan: Nanhua University.2003.
[32] Antonioni,0. Relationship between the big five personality factors and conflict[J].InternationalJournal of Conflict Management,1998,9(4):336-356.
[33] Barrick, M. R&Mount, M.K.. The big five personality dimensions and job perforrnance: Ameta-analysis[J], Personnel Psychology,1991,44:1-26.
[34] Costa, P. T.,&McCrae, R. R. Validation of the five-factor model of personality across instruments andObservers[J]. Journal of Personality and Social Psychology,1987,52(1):81-90.
[35] Costa, P. T.,&McCrae, R. R. Four ways five factors are basic[J]. Personality and lndividualDifferences,1992,13(6):653-665.
[36] Oigman, J. M. Personality structure: Emergence of the five-factor model[J]. Annual ReviewolPsychoogy,1990,41,417-440.
[37] Fumham, A.,&Fudge, C. The Five Factor Model of Personality and Sales Performance[J]. Journal ofindividual Difference，2008,35:11-16.
[38] McCrae, R. R.&P. T. Jr. Costa. Personality in Adulthood: A Five-Factor Theory Perspective (2nd ed)[M]. New York: The Gui1ford Press,2003,38-41.
[39] Clark, R. C.&R. E. Goldsmith. Interpersona1Inf1uence and Consumer Innovativeness[J].lnternational Journal ofConsumer Studies,2006,30(1):34-43.
[40] Costa, P. T. Jr.&R. R. McCrae. Revised NEO Personality Inventory (NEO-PI-R) and NEOFive-Factor Inventory (NEO-FFI) professional manual[G].Odessa, FL: Psychological AssessmentResources.1992.
[41]林家旭，方燕华.流行服装魅力因子研究.纺织综合研究期刊[J].2010，21(1):69-71.
[42]Digman, L. M. Personality Structure: Emergence ofthe Five-Factor Model[J].Annual Review of Psychology.1990,41:417-440.
[43] Goldberg, L. R. The Development of Markers for the Big-Five Factor Structure[J].PsychologicalAssessment.1993,4(1):26-33.
[44] Johnson，F. T. and Eagly, A. H.Effects of Involvement on Persuasion: A Meta-Analysis[J].Psychological Bulletin.1989,106:290-314.
[45]Davis. Clothing and fashion as communication,in M. Solomon (ed.)[M].The psychology of fashion,Lexington: Lexington Books, ppI5-27.1985.
[46]林荣泰.科技始终来自人性？[J].科学发展.2003,368:12-17.
[47] Leong, B.D.Culture-based knowledge towards new design thinking and practice-A Dialogue[J].Design Issues.2003,19:48-58.
[48]Lin, R. T.Transforming Taiwan aboriginal cultural features into modem product design:A case study ofa cross-cultural product designmodel[J]. Intemational Joumal of Design.2007,1(2):47-55.
[49]林家旭.以知识导向构建服装设计理念之研究[J].台南女院学报.2004,23:163-179.
[50] Cosbey, S.(2001). Clothing interest, clothing satisfaction and self-perceptions ofsociability,emotional stability,and dominance[J]. Social Behavior and Personality.2001,29(2):145-152.
[51] Fung, M. S.,&Yuen, M. Clothing interest all among Chinese adolescent girls in Hong Kong inrelation to socioeconomic status[J]. Psychological Reports.200290(2):387-390
[52] Gurel, L. M.,&Gurel, L.Clothing interest: Conceptualization and il1easurell1ent[J].Home EconomicsResearch Journal.1979,7(5):274-282.
[53] Chaudhuri，A. A Macro Ana1ysis of the Re1ationship of Product Invo1vement and Information Search:The Ro1e of Risk[J]. Journa1of Marketing.2000,64(Winter):1-12
[54] Higie, R. A.&Feick, L. F. Enduring Involvement: Conceptual and Measurement Issues[J], Advancesin Consumer Research.1989,16:690-696.
[55] Zaichkowsky， J. L. Measuring the Involvement Construct,Journal of Consumer Research[J].1985,12(4):341-352.
[56] Bloch, P. H.&Richins, M. L. A Theoretical Model for the Study of Product ImportancePerceptions[J].Journal of Marketing.1983,47(3):69-81.
[57] Traylor, M. B. Product lnvolvement and Brand Commitment,Journal of AdvertisingResearch[J].1981,21(6):51-56.
[58] Mittal， B.&Lee, M. S. Separating Brand-Choice lnvolvement From Product Involvement ViaConsumer Involvement Profiles[J].Advances in Consumer Research.1988,15:43-49.
[59]McQuarr ie， E. F. and J. M. Munson,.The Zaichkowsky Personal Involvement Inventory:Modification and Extension[J].Advances in Consumer Research.1987,4:36-40.
[2]转自Antonio Lanzotti. A Statistical Thinking Approach to Kansei Engineering for Product Innovation[J]. Pietro Tarantino,2008,9-10.
[3] Norman, D.A.: Emotional Design: Why We Love (or Hate) Everyday Things. Basic[M]Books, New York,2004:242-247.
[4]吕清夫.造型原理[M].台北：雄狮图书股份有限公司，1991，16-19.
[5]林书荛.基本造形学[M].台北：三民书局股份有限公司，1991，48-50.
[6]罗仕鉴，朱上上.用户的产品造型产品风格感性认知研究[J].包装工程,2005（3）：179-180.
[7]王凯，孙守迁，杨颖.基于风格描述的产品外形设计［J］.包装工程，2005(2):148-150.
[8]葛彦，刘国联.大学生男T恤衫感性形象特征分析[J].丝绸.2006(5):10-11.
[9]江影，刘国联. T恤衫感性需求调研分析[J].纺织学报.2006(2):30-34.
[10]王宇宏. T恤衫感性评价与消费行为研究[D].江苏:苏州大学硕士学位论文.2006.
[11]江影，刘国联.基于穿着者感性认知的服装款式感性研究[J].纺织学报.2007(11):104-105.
[12]王凯.产品造型风格意象认知的研究[D].浙江:浙江大学硕士学位论文.2004.
[13]刘云筠.认知与服装[D].山东:青岛大学硕士学位论文.2009.
[14]周伏平,刘国联.大学生夏季裙子感性形象分析[J].东华大学学报，2008(4):333-334.
[15]王莹，陈雁．冬季女外套款式感性研究和应用[J]．纺织学报。2007（11)：97—100．
[16]沈岳，杨佑国.大学生校服感性评价分析[J].广西纺织科技,2008(3):48-49.
[17]徐惠娟.基于Chanel女上装的造型特征及意象空间研究[D].浙江：浙江理工大学硕士学位论文.2006.
[18] Costa, P. T.,&McCrae, R. R. NEO PI-R: Professional Manual: Revised NEO PI-Rand NEO-FFI[M]. Florida: Psychological Assessment Resources, Inc，1992.
[19] Poropat, A. E.. A meta-analysis of the five-factor model of personality andacademic performance[J]. Psychological Bulletin,2009135,322–338.
[20]Aluja,Rossier. Comparsion of the NEO-FFI, the NEO-FFI-R and alternative short verstion of theNEO-FFI-R (NEO-60)in Swiss amd Spanish samples[J]. Personality and Individual Difference,2005,38:591-604.
[21]Kapferer, J. N. Comsumer Involvement Profiles: A New Practical Approach to Comsumer Involvement[J].Journal of Advertising Research,2005,25:48-56.
[22] Cosbey, S., Damhorst, M. L.,&Farrell-Beck, J. Development of instrument for a visual analysis ofdress from pictorial evidence[J]. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal,2002,20(2):110-124.
[23] Morgado, M. A. The semiotics of extraordinary dress: A structural analysis and interpretation ofHip-Hop style[J]. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal,2007,25(2):131-155.
[24] Owyong, Y. S. M. Clothing semiotics and the social construction of power relations[J].SocialSemiotics,2009,19(2):191-211.
[25] Spiegler, M. Marketing street culture: Bring hip-hop style to the mainstream. AmericanDemographics[J],1996,18(11):29-34.
[26] Tyner, K.,&Ogle, J. P. Feminist perspectives on dress and the body: An analysis of Ms.Magazine,1972to2002. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal,2007,25(1):74-105.
[27]林家旭.以生活型态观探讨服装风格与意象认知差异研究[J].台南女院学报,2005,24:71-85.
[28] Chuang, M. C.,&Kao, C. H. Exploring the image of products made in Taiwan[J]. Journal ofDesign,1997,2(2):37-53.
[29]Jhang, Y. C., Chuang, M. C., Jhu, B. S., Jhuang Shen, S. R.,&Hong, S. H. A study on the style imageof apparel design[G]. Proceedings of the8th CID Annual Design Conference (B-5–B-10). Taipei:ChineseInstitute of Design.2003.
[30]Chang, W. C.,&Lin, M. H. A comparison study between the product form image and product formfeature[J]. Journal of Design,2004,9(3):59-70.
[31]Chen, S. P. The influence of consumer life styles, degree of consumer purchase involvement andpreferences for advertisement appeals on the advertising effects: The women’s magazine as an example[D].Jiayi county, Taiwan: Nanhua University.2003.
[32] Antonioni,0. Relationship between the big five personality factors and conflict[J].InternationalJournal of Conflict Management,1998,9(4):336-356.
[33] Barrick, M. R&Mount, M.K.. The big five personality dimensions and job perforrnance: Ameta-analysis[J], Personnel Psychology,1991,44:1-26.
[34] Costa, P. T.,&McCrae, R. R. Validation of the five-factor model of personality across instruments andObservers[J]. Journal of Personality and Social Psychology,1987,52(1):81-90.
[35] Costa, P. T.,&McCrae, R. R. Four ways five factors are basic[J]. Personality and lndividualDifferences,1992,13(6):653-665.
[36] Oigman, J. M. Personality structure: Emergence of the five-factor model[J]. Annual ReviewolPsychoogy,1990,41,417-440.
[37] Fumham, A.,&Fudge, C. The Five Factor Model of Personality and Sales Performance[J]. Journal ofindividual Difference，2008,35:11-16.
[38] McCrae, R. R.&P. T. Jr. Costa. Personality in Adulthood: A Five-Factor Theory Perspective (2nd ed)[M]. New York: The Gui1ford Press,2003,38-41.
[39] Clark, R. C.&R. E. Goldsmith. Interpersona1Inf1uence and Consumer Innovativeness[J].lnternational Journal ofConsumer Studies,2006,30(1):34-43.
[40] Costa, P. T. Jr.&R. R. McCrae. Revised NEO Personality Inventory (NEO-PI-R) and NEOFive-Factor Inventory (NEO-FFI) professional manual[G].Odessa, FL: Psychological AssessmentResources.1992.
[41]林家旭，方燕华.流行服装魅力因子研究.纺织综合研究期刊[J].2010，21(1):69-71.
[42]Digman, L. M. Personality Structure: Emergence ofthe Five-Factor Model[J].Annual Review of Psychology.1990,41:417-440.
[43] Goldberg, L. R. The Development of Markers for the Big-Five Factor Structure[J].PsychologicalAssessment.1993,4(1):26-33.
[44] Johnson，F. T. and Eagly, A. H.Effects of Involvement on Persuasion: A Meta-Analysis[J].Psychological Bulletin.1989,106:290-314.
[45]Davis. Clothing and fashion as communication,in M. Solomon (ed.)[M].The psychology of fashion,Lexington: Lexington Books, ppI5-27.1985.
[46]林荣泰.科技始终来自人性？[J].科学发展.2003,368:12-17.
[47] Leong, B.D.Culture-based knowledge towards new design thinking and practice-A Dialogue[J].Design Issues.2003,19:48-58.
[48]Lin, R. T.Transforming Taiwan aboriginal cultural features into modem product design:A case study ofa cross-cultural product designmodel[J]. Intemational Joumal of Design.2007,1(2):47-55.
[49]林家旭.以知识导向构建服装设计理念之研究[J].台南女院学报.2004,23:163-179.
[50] Cosbey, S.(2001). Clothing interest, clothing satisfaction and self-perceptions ofsociability,emotional stability,and dominance[J]. Social Behavior and Personality.2001,29(2):145-152.
[51] Fung, M. S.,&Yuen, M. Clothing interest all among Chinese adolescent girls in Hong Kong inrelation to socioeconomic status[J]. Psychological Reports.200290(2):387-390
[52] Gurel, L. M.,&Gurel, L.Clothing interest: Conceptualization and il1easurell1ent[J].Home EconomicsResearch Journal.1979,7(5):274-282.
[53] Chaudhuri，A. A Macro Ana1ysis of the Re1ationship of Product Invo1vement and Information Search:The Ro1e of Risk[J]. Journa1of Marketing.2000,64(Winter):1-12
[54] Higie, R. A.&Feick, L. F. Enduring Involvement: Conceptual and Measurement Issues[J], Advancesin Consumer Research.1989,16:690-696.
[55] Zaichkowsky， J. L. Measuring the Involvement Construct,Journal of Consumer Research[J].1985,12(4):341-352.
[56] Bloch, P. H.&Richins, M. L. A Theoretical Model for the Study of Product ImportancePerceptions[J].Journal of Marketing.1983,47(3):69-81.
[57] Traylor, M. B. Product lnvolvement and Brand Commitment,Journal of AdvertisingResearch[J].1981,21(6):51-56.
[58] Mittal， B.&Lee, M. S. Separating Brand-Choice lnvolvement From Product Involvement ViaConsumer Involvement Profiles[J].Advances in Consumer Research.1988,15:43-49.
[59]McQuarr ie， E. F. and J. M. Munson,.The Zaichkowsky Personal Involvement Inventory:Modification and Extension[J].Advances in Consumer Research.1987,4:36-40.