热湿气候个体防护服装面料性能表征与评价
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摘要
本课题旨在开发一种适合热区环境使用的具有抗紫外线、抗菌、吸汗快干功能的织物。为获得多种功能兼具的织物及其制备方法,通过对各功能纤维在纱线中所占比例及各功能纤维所具有功能的互容或互斥作用对纱线及织物功能的影响的分析,提出实用、高效的多功能并存的织物及其功能可靠性的表征。为此展开的研究工作包括以下四方面内容。
(1)在对国内外抗紫外线、抗菌和吸汗快干纤维的筛选、分析、测试和评价的基础上,选择了纳米Ti02抗紫外线纤维、AmicorTMPlus抗菌纤维和Coolplus(?)吸汗快干功能纤维作为织物实现多重功能的基材。
(2)设计多元功能纱线。调整抗紫外线纤维、Coolplus(?)、AmicorTM及粘胶纤维在纱线中比例含量,设计了10种混比的32支纱线,并进行了纱线基本性能(断裂强度、毛羽、捻系数、细度不匀CV)和纱线抗菌性能的测试。通过对纱线基本性能的聚类分析、混纺比与纱线基本性能的相关性分析、纱线基本性能优劣的综合评价以及混纺比对抗菌性能影响程度分析得知,各种功能纤维所占比例与纱线的基本性能均没有显著的线性相关性。确定适合成纱的四种纱线分别是H10、H4、H2和H3。其混纺比(抗紫外线纤维/Coolplus(?)/AmicorTM/粘胶纤维)分别为：35/45/15/5,25/45/20/10,25/35/25/15,25/45/15/15。
(3)设计多元功能机织物。采用10种多元功能纱线分别织造了平纹机织物(凡立丁结构)和斜纹机织物(哔叽结构,2上2下/)结构各10种。分别对2种机织物的基本结构参数及功能指标进行了测试,进行了织物结构参数及功能指标的聚类分析、纱线性能与织物功能的相关性分析、织物结构参数与织物功能的相关性分析,并对2种织物的基本结构参数、抗紫外线功能、吸汗速干功能进行了对比分析,最后对这2种结构的20种织物进行了秩和综合评价排序。得出结论是：①平纹织物和斜纹织物中,各纤维在织物中含量与织物功能均没有显著的线性相关关系。说明本课题设计的各种纤维的混入比重都能使织物获得良好的抗紫外线、吸汗速干性能。只要抗紫外线纤维、Coolplus(?)、AmicorTM和粘胶纤维在平纹织物中比例介于4.3%～11.7%、7.3%～14.7%、5.0%～16.2%、1.4%～5.0%之间,在斜纹织物中比例介于4.6%～11.7%、7.7%～15.1%、4.5%～7.7%、1.7%～5.0%之间,就能实现目标功能。②平纹织物的厚度与水分扩散面积指数显著呈正线性相关,面密度、密度与抗紫外线性能呈显著正线性相关。斜纹织物的厚度、面密度、密度与织物的功能均无显著的线性相关性。③斜纹织物与平纹织物厚度及面密度有显著差异,斜纹织物抗紫外线性、吸水速度优于平纹织物,但水分扩散面积指数劣于平纹织物。④斜纹织物的整体综合性能优于平纹织物。最优织物分别为X6、F1、F6、X9、X3和X1。根据试纺纱线及织物测试的数据,当斜纹织物的经纬密度之比在1-1.1之间,密度在0.29-0.292g/cm2之间时,斜纹织物的综合性能最优。而平纹织物的经纬密度之比在1.2-1.3之间,密度在0.3-0.31g/cm2之间时,平纹织物的综合性能最优。
(4)设计多元功能针织物。根据机织物的性能分析数据,结合纱线基本性能数据,确定纱线H6和H3纱线作为进一步加工针织物用纱,并以一种竹炭微孔纱(抗紫外线纤维30%/竹炭微孔纤维40%/AmicorTM30%)作为参考对比纱分别进行纬平针织物(汗布)和珠地网眼针织物的设计,得到共计6种针织物。测试所有针织物的基本结构参数、性能指标、抗紫外线、吸汗速干功能指标,并进行了针织物结构参数与性能、针织物功能指标与针织物结构参数、针织物相对功能指标与针织物结构参数的相关性及两种针织物结构参数与基本性能的对比、抗紫外线功能、吸汗速干功能的对比分析得出结论是,①纬平针织物和珠地网眼针织物的顶破强度、抗起球性、耐磨性与厚度、面密度和密度均没有显著的线性相关性。②纬平针织物的抗紫外线性能及隔湿率与厚度、面密度和密度没有显著的线性相关性；干燥速率与厚度显著正相关,与面密度显著负相关；吸水高度与厚度完全负相关,与面密度及密度显著正相关；吸水速度与厚度显著负相关,与面密度显著正相关。珠地网眼织物的抗紫外线性能、隔湿率、吸水速度和吸水高度与厚度、面密度和密度没有显著的线性相关性；干燥速率与厚度完全负相关。③两种针织物在密度、顶破强度和耐磨性指标上无显著差异。
(5)设计双面功能织物。根据拒水排汗结构模型设计了双面整理工艺并进行了优化。通过对棉织物进行双面整理工艺的正交设计探索,确定对于棉织物而言一种涂层整理工艺。单侧进行拒水整理时采用拒水剂浓度40g/L,热压温度180℃,热压时间60s,用量比1.2；单侧进行亲水整理时采用亲水剂浓度70g/L,热压温度195℃,热压时间90s,用量比1.2。数据分析表明,此种工艺能够使织物一面具有拒水性的同时另一面具有吸水性。并且就吸水性而言,此种工艺对涤棉织物的整理效果优于对于棉织物的整理效果。
通过以上五个方面的研究工作,成功研制了多元功能织物,由此研究所产生的理论、方法和数据,可用于所研发织物的产业化生产和对相近、相似功能织物生产的借鉴。由此研究所得的表征方法和特征参数与数据,可成为制定国标、军标的基础理论依据。从军事、社会和经济价值角度看,本课题研究既能为海军官兵在热湿环境作业提供一定的防护,也能在市场开发中产生经济效益,同时,还能提高人民群众对服装与健康的认识,促进整个社会对多元功能织物及服装的认可度。
The subject aims to develop a suitable anti-UV, anti-bacterial, absorbent and quick drying function fabrics for the use in the hot and wet environment.For a variety of functions of both the fabric and its preparation method, through the various functions of the proportion of fibers in the yam fibers and the functional interaction with the content or functionality of the exclusive function of the role of yarn and fabric analysis of the impact put forward practical and efficient co-existence of multi-functional fabrics and functional reliability characterization.Research work towards this end include the following five aspects.
(1) With screening, analysis, testing and evaluation of anti-UV, antibacterial and absorbent quick-drying fiber, the nano-TiO2 fiber, AmicorTMPlus and Coolplus(?) were chosen to achieve the multi-function.
(2) Designing multi-function yarn.Adjust anti-UV fibers, Coolplus, AmicorTM and viscose fibers in the proportion of content in the yam, design more than 10 kinds of mixed yarn of 32 and had a basic yarn properties (tensile strength, hairiness, twist coefficient of fineness uneven C V) and antibacterial properties of the test yarn.Basic performance of the yarn through the cluster analysis, blended yarn than with the basic properties of the correlation analysis, the basic properties of yam and blended comprehensive evaluation of the merits of anti-bacterial properties than the impact analysis showed that the proportion of functional fiber proportion of the basic properties of yam were no significant linear correlation.Determine the four yarn for yarn were H10, H4, H2 and H3.The blending ratio (UV fiber/Coolplus/AmicorTM/viscose fibers), respectively:35/45/15/5,25/45/20/10,25/35/25/15,25/45/15/15.
(3)Designing multi-functional fabrics.The use of 10 kinds of multi-function yarn weaving a plain woven fabric, respectively (valitin structure) and twill woven fabric (serge structure,2 on 2, the(?)) structure of the 10 species.Respectively, two kinds of woven fabrics and functional parameters of the basic structure of indicators were tested, for a fabric structure parameters and functions of indicators of cluster analysis, yarn and fabric performance analysis of the correlation function, functional fabric fabric structure parameters and the correlation analysis, and two kinds of basic structural parameters of fabric, UV resistant, absorbent and quick drying capabilities are compared and analyzed, the final structure of these two kinds of fabric for the 20 comprehensive evaluation of the rank and sort.①Plain weave fabric and twill fabrics, the fibers in the fabric content and fabric functions are no significant linear relationship.Description of the project design of the proportion of fibers mixed with the fabric can get a good anti-ultraviolet absorbent quick-drying performance.As long as the UV fiber, Coolplus, AmicorTM plain weave fabric and viscose fibers in the proportion between 4.3%～11.7%,7.3% to 14.7%,5.0%～16.2%,1.4% to 5.0%, and twill fabrics in ratio between 4.6% to 11.7%,7.7% to 15.1%,4.5% to 7.7%,1.7% to 5.0%, and can achieve the objective function.②Plain weave fabric thickness and moisture diffusion area index showed a significant positive linear correlation, density, density and UV resistance was a significant positive linear correlation.Twill fabric thickness, density, density and function of the fabric was no significant linear correlation.③Twill and plain weave fabric thickness and density were significantly different, twill fabric UV resistance, water absorption rate is better than plain fabric, but the water spread area index worse than plain weave fabric.④Twill overall comprehensive performance is better than plain cloth.The best fabrics are X6, F1, F6, X9, X3 and X1.According to the test yarn and fabric testing data, when the warp and weft density ratio is in the 1-1.1, ratio of density is in 0.29-0.292g/cm2, overall performance of twill fabric is the best.The warp and weft density ratio of plain weave fabric is between 1.2-1.3, density ration is between 0.3-0.31 g/cm2, overall performance of plain fabric is the best.
(4) Designing multi-functional knitwear.Performance analysis of woven fabric according to the data, performance data with the basic yarn, yarn H6 and H3 to determine the further processing of knitted yarn as the yarn and yarn in a porous charcoal (30% of UV fiber/charcoal micro-fiber 40%/AmicorTM30%) as a reference for comparison were weft yarn jersey (jersey) and pique knitted fabric design, to get a total of six kinds of knitted fabric.Test all the basic structural parameters of knitted fabrics, performance indicators, anti-ultraviolet radiation, perspiration wicking function parameters, and parameters for the structure and properties of knitted fabric, knitted fabric and knitted fabric structure function index parameters, the relative functional indicators and knitted knitted structure parameter correlation and two knitted fabric structure parameters and the basic performance comparison, anti-ultraviolet, absorbent quick-drying features contrast analysis concluded that,①latitude jersey and pique knits bursting strength, resistance to pilling, abrasion resistance and thickness, density and density had no significant linear correlation.②weft knitted flat and UV resistance across the wet rate and thickness, density and linear density of no significant correlation;Drying rate significantly correlated with the thickness and density significantly negatively correlated;Height and thickness of the water completely negatively correlated with the density and the density of a significant positive correlation;Water velocity and thickness of the significant negative correlation with the density a significant positive correlation.Pique fabric UV resistance, across the wet rate, water velocity and water height and thickness, density and linear density of no significant correlation;Drying rate and the thickness of the completely negative.③two kinds of knitted fabric density, bursting strength and abrasion resistance index was no significant difference.
(5) Designing double-sided functional fabrics.According to water proof, sweat-sided structure model designed and optimized finishing process.By finishing of cotton fabric on both sides of the orthogonal design exploration process to determine the terms of a coating for cotton fabric finishing process.Unilateral use of the water repellent finishing agent concentration refused 40g/L, pressing temperature 180℃, pressing time 60s, with a ratio 1.2;Unilateral used for hydrophilic finishing agent concentration 70g/L, pressing temperature 195℃, pressing time 90s, with a ratio 1.2.Data analysis shows that this process can have a hydrophobic side of the fabric while the other side of the absorbent.And the absorbent, such a process on the polyester fabric is better than finishing of cotton fabrics for the finishing effect.
Through the above five areas of study, we developed a multi-functional fabrics successfully, the produced theory, methods and data developed by the fabric can be used for industrial production and the similar functional fabrics produced.Thus studies of the characterization methods and characteristics of the parameters and data, could be the development of national standard, the basic theory underlying basis for the military.From the military, social and economic value perspective, this research both for the naval officers operating in the hot environment to provide some protection, but also to generate economic development in the market, while also improving the people's clothing and health of understanding and promoting the social fabric and clothing for the multiple functions of recognition.
(1)在对国内外抗紫外线、抗菌和吸汗快干纤维的筛选、分析、测试和评价的基础上,选择了纳米Ti02抗紫外线纤维、AmicorTMPlus抗菌纤维和Coolplus(?)吸汗快干功能纤维作为织物实现多重功能的基材。
(2)设计多元功能纱线。调整抗紫外线纤维、Coolplus(?)、AmicorTM及粘胶纤维在纱线中比例含量,设计了10种混比的32支纱线,并进行了纱线基本性能(断裂强度、毛羽、捻系数、细度不匀CV)和纱线抗菌性能的测试。通过对纱线基本性能的聚类分析、混纺比与纱线基本性能的相关性分析、纱线基本性能优劣的综合评价以及混纺比对抗菌性能影响程度分析得知,各种功能纤维所占比例与纱线的基本性能均没有显著的线性相关性。确定适合成纱的四种纱线分别是H10、H4、H2和H3。其混纺比(抗紫外线纤维/Coolplus(?)/AmicorTM/粘胶纤维)分别为：35/45/15/5,25/45/20/10,25/35/25/15,25/45/15/15。
(3)设计多元功能机织物。采用10种多元功能纱线分别织造了平纹机织物(凡立丁结构)和斜纹机织物(哔叽结构,2上2下/)结构各10种。分别对2种机织物的基本结构参数及功能指标进行了测试,进行了织物结构参数及功能指标的聚类分析、纱线性能与织物功能的相关性分析、织物结构参数与织物功能的相关性分析,并对2种织物的基本结构参数、抗紫外线功能、吸汗速干功能进行了对比分析,最后对这2种结构的20种织物进行了秩和综合评价排序。得出结论是：①平纹织物和斜纹织物中,各纤维在织物中含量与织物功能均没有显著的线性相关关系。说明本课题设计的各种纤维的混入比重都能使织物获得良好的抗紫外线、吸汗速干性能。只要抗紫外线纤维、Coolplus(?)、AmicorTM和粘胶纤维在平纹织物中比例介于4.3%～11.7%、7.3%～14.7%、5.0%～16.2%、1.4%～5.0%之间,在斜纹织物中比例介于4.6%～11.7%、7.7%～15.1%、4.5%～7.7%、1.7%～5.0%之间,就能实现目标功能。②平纹织物的厚度与水分扩散面积指数显著呈正线性相关,面密度、密度与抗紫外线性能呈显著正线性相关。斜纹织物的厚度、面密度、密度与织物的功能均无显著的线性相关性。③斜纹织物与平纹织物厚度及面密度有显著差异,斜纹织物抗紫外线性、吸水速度优于平纹织物,但水分扩散面积指数劣于平纹织物。④斜纹织物的整体综合性能优于平纹织物。最优织物分别为X6、F1、F6、X9、X3和X1。根据试纺纱线及织物测试的数据,当斜纹织物的经纬密度之比在1-1.1之间,密度在0.29-0.292g/cm2之间时,斜纹织物的综合性能最优。而平纹织物的经纬密度之比在1.2-1.3之间,密度在0.3-0.31g/cm2之间时,平纹织物的综合性能最优。
(4)设计多元功能针织物。根据机织物的性能分析数据,结合纱线基本性能数据,确定纱线H6和H3纱线作为进一步加工针织物用纱,并以一种竹炭微孔纱(抗紫外线纤维30%/竹炭微孔纤维40%/AmicorTM30%)作为参考对比纱分别进行纬平针织物(汗布)和珠地网眼针织物的设计,得到共计6种针织物。测试所有针织物的基本结构参数、性能指标、抗紫外线、吸汗速干功能指标,并进行了针织物结构参数与性能、针织物功能指标与针织物结构参数、针织物相对功能指标与针织物结构参数的相关性及两种针织物结构参数与基本性能的对比、抗紫外线功能、吸汗速干功能的对比分析得出结论是,①纬平针织物和珠地网眼针织物的顶破强度、抗起球性、耐磨性与厚度、面密度和密度均没有显著的线性相关性。②纬平针织物的抗紫外线性能及隔湿率与厚度、面密度和密度没有显著的线性相关性；干燥速率与厚度显著正相关,与面密度显著负相关；吸水高度与厚度完全负相关,与面密度及密度显著正相关；吸水速度与厚度显著负相关,与面密度显著正相关。珠地网眼织物的抗紫外线性能、隔湿率、吸水速度和吸水高度与厚度、面密度和密度没有显著的线性相关性；干燥速率与厚度完全负相关。③两种针织物在密度、顶破强度和耐磨性指标上无显著差异。
(5)设计双面功能织物。根据拒水排汗结构模型设计了双面整理工艺并进行了优化。通过对棉织物进行双面整理工艺的正交设计探索,确定对于棉织物而言一种涂层整理工艺。单侧进行拒水整理时采用拒水剂浓度40g/L,热压温度180℃,热压时间60s,用量比1.2；单侧进行亲水整理时采用亲水剂浓度70g/L,热压温度195℃,热压时间90s,用量比1.2。数据分析表明,此种工艺能够使织物一面具有拒水性的同时另一面具有吸水性。并且就吸水性而言,此种工艺对涤棉织物的整理效果优于对于棉织物的整理效果。
通过以上五个方面的研究工作,成功研制了多元功能织物,由此研究所产生的理论、方法和数据,可用于所研发织物的产业化生产和对相近、相似功能织物生产的借鉴。由此研究所得的表征方法和特征参数与数据,可成为制定国标、军标的基础理论依据。从军事、社会和经济价值角度看,本课题研究既能为海军官兵在热湿环境作业提供一定的防护,也能在市场开发中产生经济效益,同时,还能提高人民群众对服装与健康的认识,促进整个社会对多元功能织物及服装的认可度。
The subject aims to develop a suitable anti-UV, anti-bacterial, absorbent and quick drying function fabrics for the use in the hot and wet environment.For a variety of functions of both the fabric and its preparation method, through the various functions of the proportion of fibers in the yam fibers and the functional interaction with the content or functionality of the exclusive function of the role of yarn and fabric analysis of the impact put forward practical and efficient co-existence of multi-functional fabrics and functional reliability characterization.Research work towards this end include the following five aspects.
(1) With screening, analysis, testing and evaluation of anti-UV, antibacterial and absorbent quick-drying fiber, the nano-TiO2 fiber, AmicorTMPlus and Coolplus(?) were chosen to achieve the multi-function.
(2) Designing multi-function yarn.Adjust anti-UV fibers, Coolplus, AmicorTM and viscose fibers in the proportion of content in the yam, design more than 10 kinds of mixed yarn of 32 and had a basic yarn properties (tensile strength, hairiness, twist coefficient of fineness uneven C V) and antibacterial properties of the test yarn.Basic performance of the yarn through the cluster analysis, blended yarn than with the basic properties of the correlation analysis, the basic properties of yam and blended comprehensive evaluation of the merits of anti-bacterial properties than the impact analysis showed that the proportion of functional fiber proportion of the basic properties of yam were no significant linear correlation.Determine the four yarn for yarn were H10, H4, H2 and H3.The blending ratio (UV fiber/Coolplus/AmicorTM/viscose fibers), respectively:35/45/15/5,25/45/20/10,25/35/25/15,25/45/15/15.
(3)Designing multi-functional fabrics.The use of 10 kinds of multi-function yarn weaving a plain woven fabric, respectively (valitin structure) and twill woven fabric (serge structure,2 on 2, the(?)) structure of the 10 species.Respectively, two kinds of woven fabrics and functional parameters of the basic structure of indicators were tested, for a fabric structure parameters and functions of indicators of cluster analysis, yarn and fabric performance analysis of the correlation function, functional fabric fabric structure parameters and the correlation analysis, and two kinds of basic structural parameters of fabric, UV resistant, absorbent and quick drying capabilities are compared and analyzed, the final structure of these two kinds of fabric for the 20 comprehensive evaluation of the rank and sort.①Plain weave fabric and twill fabrics, the fibers in the fabric content and fabric functions are no significant linear relationship.Description of the project design of the proportion of fibers mixed with the fabric can get a good anti-ultraviolet absorbent quick-drying performance.As long as the UV fiber, Coolplus, AmicorTM plain weave fabric and viscose fibers in the proportion between 4.3%～11.7%,7.3% to 14.7%,5.0%～16.2%,1.4% to 5.0%, and twill fabrics in ratio between 4.6% to 11.7%,7.7% to 15.1%,4.5% to 7.7%,1.7% to 5.0%, and can achieve the objective function.②Plain weave fabric thickness and moisture diffusion area index showed a significant positive linear correlation, density, density and UV resistance was a significant positive linear correlation.Twill fabric thickness, density, density and function of the fabric was no significant linear correlation.③Twill and plain weave fabric thickness and density were significantly different, twill fabric UV resistance, water absorption rate is better than plain fabric, but the water spread area index worse than plain weave fabric.④Twill overall comprehensive performance is better than plain cloth.The best fabrics are X6, F1, F6, X9, X3 and X1.According to the test yarn and fabric testing data, when the warp and weft density ratio is in the 1-1.1, ratio of density is in 0.29-0.292g/cm2, overall performance of twill fabric is the best.The warp and weft density ratio of plain weave fabric is between 1.2-1.3, density ration is between 0.3-0.31 g/cm2, overall performance of plain fabric is the best.
(4) Designing multi-functional knitwear.Performance analysis of woven fabric according to the data, performance data with the basic yarn, yarn H6 and H3 to determine the further processing of knitted yarn as the yarn and yarn in a porous charcoal (30% of UV fiber/charcoal micro-fiber 40%/AmicorTM30%) as a reference for comparison were weft yarn jersey (jersey) and pique knitted fabric design, to get a total of six kinds of knitted fabric.Test all the basic structural parameters of knitted fabrics, performance indicators, anti-ultraviolet radiation, perspiration wicking function parameters, and parameters for the structure and properties of knitted fabric, knitted fabric and knitted fabric structure function index parameters, the relative functional indicators and knitted knitted structure parameter correlation and two knitted fabric structure parameters and the basic performance comparison, anti-ultraviolet, absorbent quick-drying features contrast analysis concluded that,①latitude jersey and pique knits bursting strength, resistance to pilling, abrasion resistance and thickness, density and density had no significant linear correlation.②weft knitted flat and UV resistance across the wet rate and thickness, density and linear density of no significant correlation;Drying rate significantly correlated with the thickness and density significantly negatively correlated;Height and thickness of the water completely negatively correlated with the density and the density of a significant positive correlation;Water velocity and thickness of the significant negative correlation with the density a significant positive correlation.Pique fabric UV resistance, across the wet rate, water velocity and water height and thickness, density and linear density of no significant correlation;Drying rate and the thickness of the completely negative.③two kinds of knitted fabric density, bursting strength and abrasion resistance index was no significant difference.
(5) Designing double-sided functional fabrics.According to water proof, sweat-sided structure model designed and optimized finishing process.By finishing of cotton fabric on both sides of the orthogonal design exploration process to determine the terms of a coating for cotton fabric finishing process.Unilateral use of the water repellent finishing agent concentration refused 40g/L, pressing temperature 180℃, pressing time 60s, with a ratio 1.2;Unilateral used for hydrophilic finishing agent concentration 70g/L, pressing temperature 195℃, pressing time 90s, with a ratio 1.2.Data analysis shows that this process can have a hydrophobic side of the fabric while the other side of the absorbent.And the absorbent, such a process on the polyester fabric is better than finishing of cotton fabrics for the finishing effect.
Through the above five areas of study, we developed a multi-functional fabrics successfully, the produced theory, methods and data developed by the fabric can be used for industrial production and the similar functional fabrics produced.Thus studies of the characterization methods and characteristics of the parameters and data, could be the development of national standard, the basic theory underlying basis for the military.From the military, social and economic value perspective, this research both for the naval officers operating in the hot environment to provide some protection, but also to generate economic development in the market, while also improving the people's clothing and health of understanding and promoting the social fabric and clothing for the multiple functions of recognition.
引文
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