中外校服惯制的研究
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摘要
作为一种独特的文化形式，校服在表现一个国家和地区的经济、教育、文化水平和宗教信仰方面起着很大的作用。校服起源于欧洲的一个最老牌的殖民帝国—英国。在英国著多学校制服中，教会所创办的慈善性质的学校和贵族学校校服的形制、规范和种类较为有特色。
本文首先把能够充分体现和反映英国人特征的、同时也能代表英国不同阶层的“蓝制服”、伊顿服、童子军服、军校学员服和传统校服为主要研究对象，对其进行较为细致的介绍和分析。从中我们可以看出英国人的那种特有的保守的、循规蹈矩的、清教徒式的思想和行为方式和宗教信仰对他们的影响之深。然后从我国明朝时期的进士服和儒士服为起点研究介绍了我国理论意义上的近现代的校服和当前我国校服的现状及人们对其的不同看法和建议。其中的最著名的代表就是中山装。由于历史传统文化等的原因，真正意义上的校服起步较晚，现有的校服大多数也是以日本校服为版本，还没有形成一种有中国特色的校服文化。为此通过对中外校服的研究和对比来找出我国校服的差距和不足，通过借鉴国外校服的优点来指导我们国家的校服的设计和发展方向。
As a unique cultural form, the school uniforms plays a very important role in displaying the economy, education cultural level and religious belief in a country or region. The school uniform originated from Britain, an empire with a long colonial history in Europe. Among British school uniforms, the school uniforms of the missionary schools and the noble schools are of peculiarity with their structure, standard and sort. At first, I introduce and analyze carefully the Bluecoat uniform, the Eton suit, Scout uniform, Cadet uniform and traditional school uniform that reflect fully the British character and stand for the different classes. Among them we can understand on them the impact of conservation, action of beaten tract, puritan-typed ideas and religious belief. Then I study our modern school uniform in theory, the present situation of our Chinese school uniform and the different views and suggestions in our country with the starting point of doctorate clothes and Confucian scholar clothes from Ming Dynasty. Among these uniforms, the Chinese tunic suit is the most prominent one. For some historical and cultural reasons, the real school uniforms starts relatively later in our country and most school uniforms at present regard Japanese school uniforms as the edition without a Chinese culture of school uniform. So we can find out the disparity and deficiency of Chinese school uniforms by studying and contracting the difference between the school uniforms inside and outside China. We can also guide the design and development direction of Chinese school uniforms by appreciating to take things philosophically and taking advantages of school uniforms of other countries.
本文首先把能够充分体现和反映英国人特征的、同时也能代表英国不同阶层的“蓝制服”、伊顿服、童子军服、军校学员服和传统校服为主要研究对象，对其进行较为细致的介绍和分析。从中我们可以看出英国人的那种特有的保守的、循规蹈矩的、清教徒式的思想和行为方式和宗教信仰对他们的影响之深。然后从我国明朝时期的进士服和儒士服为起点研究介绍了我国理论意义上的近现代的校服和当前我国校服的现状及人们对其的不同看法和建议。其中的最著名的代表就是中山装。由于历史传统文化等的原因，真正意义上的校服起步较晚，现有的校服大多数也是以日本校服为版本，还没有形成一种有中国特色的校服文化。为此通过对中外校服的研究和对比来找出我国校服的差距和不足，通过借鉴国外校服的优点来指导我们国家的校服的设计和发展方向。
As a unique cultural form, the school uniforms plays a very important role in displaying the economy, education cultural level and religious belief in a country or region. The school uniform originated from Britain, an empire with a long colonial history in Europe. Among British school uniforms, the school uniforms of the missionary schools and the noble schools are of peculiarity with their structure, standard and sort. At first, I introduce and analyze carefully the Bluecoat uniform, the Eton suit, Scout uniform, Cadet uniform and traditional school uniform that reflect fully the British character and stand for the different classes. Among them we can understand on them the impact of conservation, action of beaten tract, puritan-typed ideas and religious belief. Then I study our modern school uniform in theory, the present situation of our Chinese school uniform and the different views and suggestions in our country with the starting point of doctorate clothes and Confucian scholar clothes from Ming Dynasty. Among these uniforms, the Chinese tunic suit is the most prominent one. For some historical and cultural reasons, the real school uniforms starts relatively later in our country and most school uniforms at present regard Japanese school uniforms as the edition without a Chinese culture of school uniform. So we can find out the disparity and deficiency of Chinese school uniforms by studying and contracting the difference between the school uniforms inside and outside China. We can also guide the design and development direction of Chinese school uniforms by appreciating to take things philosophically and taking advantages of school uniforms of other countries.
引文
[1]A Traditional Schoolboy Uniform from the 1960s. Photographs ofactual garments from a private costume collection, http://home, freeuk, com.
[2]Bluecoat schools. The origins of bluecoat dress, file://A:\Bluecoat%20Schools.html
[3]Christ's Hospital School. file://A:\Bluecoat%20Schools.html
[4]Boy Scout Uniforms. http://histclo.hispeed.com/youth/scout.html
[5]Victorian Cadets. http://home.freeuk.com/cadets/Victorian.htm
[6]The Eton Suit&Choir school, http://home.freeuk.com/mkb/EtonSuit.htm
[7]The Eton suit in the movies, http://home.freeuk.com/mkb/EtonSuit.html
[8]An Eton Suit from the 1950s. Photographs ofactual garments from a private costume collection, http://home.freeuk.com/mkb/EtonSuit.html
[9]The Traditional English Schoolboy. file://A:\The%20Traditional%20English%20Schoolboy.htm
[10]Grammar school boys. file://A:\The%20Traditional%20English%20Schoolboy.htm
[11]Schoolcaps. file://A:\The%20Traditional%20\English%20Schoolboy.htm
[12]Gabardine mackintoshes, file://A:\The%20Traditional%20\English%20Schoolboy.htm
[13]The Eton Collar. http://home.freeuk.com/mkb/SUG/boater/collars.btml
[14]Eton College Gallery. http://home.freeuk.com/mkb/SUG/etongal/etongallery.htm
[15]A public school cadet corps, file://A:\Cadet%20Detachments.html
[16]Scout Uniforms. file://A:\School%20Scout%20Troops.html
[17]Other scout uniforms, file://A:\School%20Scout%20Troops.html
[18]Rush Green Junior School Uniform. file://A:\Welcome%20To%20Rush%20Green%20Junior%20School.htm
[19]Cadet Uniforms. file://A:\Cadet%20Detachments.html
[20]Rose Bay High SchoolUniform. file://A:\Rose%20Bay%20High%20School%20Uniform.htm
[21]A History of costume int the West. Francois Boucher additional chapter by Yvonne Deslandres.
[22]Payeve Jennifer Scarce. History of costume.
[23]SuSan B. Kaiser. The Social psychology of clothing.
[24]Joan Nunn. Fashion in Costumes 1200-2000.
[25]安毓英，金庚荣．中国现代服装史．北京：中国轻工业出版社，1999
[26]张京琼，蔡毅．中外服装史对览．上海：中国纺织大学出版社，2000
[27]李世荣，古今中外服装珍闻趣事．北京：中国纺织工业出版社，1991
[28]叶立诚．中西服装史．北京：中国纺织工业出版社，2002
[29]陈冠华．世界服饰词典．上海：上海远东出版社，1996
[30]徐清泉．中国服饰艺术论．太原：山西教育出版社，2001
[31]李之檀．中国服饰文化参考文献目录．北京：中国纺织工业出版社，2001
[32]史蒂文森．中国服饰文化．上海：上海古籍出版社
[33]理罗林．霍恩．服饰-人类第二皮肤．上海：上海人民出版社，1991
[34]山内智慧美．20世纪汉族服饰文化研究．西安：西北大学出版社，2001
[35]实藤慧秀．中国人留学闩本史(中译本)．第152，157页
[36]中国近现代学史料第一辑上册
[37]Alison Lurie著，李长青译．解渎服装．北京：中国纺织出版社，2000
[38]张浩，郑嵘．时尚百年．北京：中囚轻工业出版社，2001年1月
[39]丁荫奎，钟家栋．中国革命史。上海：上海人民出版社，1993
[40]黄能馥．中国服装史．北京：中国纺织出版社，2000
[41]邵力子．对于新妇女治容的愤激．南京：民国日报，1920年5月7日
[42]克林顿．学生要穿制服．纽约时报．1985年2月25日
[2]Bluecoat schools. The origins of bluecoat dress, file://A:\Bluecoat%20Schools.html
[3]Christ's Hospital School. file://A:\Bluecoat%20Schools.html
[4]Boy Scout Uniforms. http://histclo.hispeed.com/youth/scout.html
[5]Victorian Cadets. http://home.freeuk.com/cadets/Victorian.htm
[6]The Eton Suit&Choir school, http://home.freeuk.com/mkb/EtonSuit.htm
[7]The Eton suit in the movies, http://home.freeuk.com/mkb/EtonSuit.html
[8]An Eton Suit from the 1950s. Photographs ofactual garments from a private costume collection, http://home.freeuk.com/mkb/EtonSuit.html
[9]The Traditional English Schoolboy. file://A:\The%20Traditional%20English%20Schoolboy.htm
[10]Grammar school boys. file://A:\The%20Traditional%20English%20Schoolboy.htm
[11]Schoolcaps. file://A:\The%20Traditional%20\English%20Schoolboy.htm
[12]Gabardine mackintoshes, file://A:\The%20Traditional%20\English%20Schoolboy.htm
[13]The Eton Collar. http://home.freeuk.com/mkb/SUG/boater/collars.btml
[14]Eton College Gallery. http://home.freeuk.com/mkb/SUG/etongal/etongallery.htm
[15]A public school cadet corps, file://A:\Cadet%20Detachments.html
[16]Scout Uniforms. file://A:\School%20Scout%20Troops.html
[17]Other scout uniforms, file://A:\School%20Scout%20Troops.html
[18]Rush Green Junior School Uniform. file://A:\Welcome%20To%20Rush%20Green%20Junior%20School.htm
[19]Cadet Uniforms. file://A:\Cadet%20Detachments.html
[20]Rose Bay High SchoolUniform. file://A:\Rose%20Bay%20High%20School%20Uniform.htm
[21]A History of costume int the West. Francois Boucher additional chapter by Yvonne Deslandres.
[22]Payeve Jennifer Scarce. History of costume.
[23]SuSan B. Kaiser. The Social psychology of clothing.
[24]Joan Nunn. Fashion in Costumes 1200-2000.
[25]安毓英，金庚荣．中国现代服装史．北京：中国轻工业出版社，1999
[26]张京琼，蔡毅．中外服装史对览．上海：中国纺织大学出版社，2000
[27]李世荣，古今中外服装珍闻趣事．北京：中国纺织工业出版社，1991
[28]叶立诚．中西服装史．北京：中国纺织工业出版社，2002
[29]陈冠华．世界服饰词典．上海：上海远东出版社，1996
[30]徐清泉．中国服饰艺术论．太原：山西教育出版社，2001
[31]李之檀．中国服饰文化参考文献目录．北京：中国纺织工业出版社，2001
[32]史蒂文森．中国服饰文化．上海：上海古籍出版社
[33]理罗林．霍恩．服饰-人类第二皮肤．上海：上海人民出版社，1991
[34]山内智慧美．20世纪汉族服饰文化研究．西安：西北大学出版社，2001
[35]实藤慧秀．中国人留学闩本史(中译本)．第152，157页
[36]中国近现代学史料第一辑上册
[37]Alison Lurie著，李长青译．解渎服装．北京：中国纺织出版社，2000
[38]张浩，郑嵘．时尚百年．北京：中囚轻工业出版社，2001年1月
[39]丁荫奎，钟家栋．中国革命史。上海：上海人民出版社，1993
[40]黄能馥．中国服装史．北京：中国纺织出版社，2000
[41]邵力子．对于新妇女治容的愤激．南京：民国日报，1920年5月7日
[42]克林顿．学生要穿制服．纽约时报．1985年2月25日