光纤提花织物的织造工艺研究与产品开发
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摘要
光纤提花织物是将塑料光纤以提花织造的方式与纱线交织，利用光纤的侧发光性能，开发的一种可显示图案的发光织物，研究内容涉及材料、纺织、艺术设计和电子电路等学科。本论文重点研究了织造以及组织结构对光纤织物侧发光性能的影响，并结合图案造型、电路控制,设计制作了图案可动态显示的光纤提花织物。
织造过程中，光纤在织机传动机构的作用下受到不同形式的力，了解光纤在织造时的受力情况，有助于织造的顺利进行以及调整织造工艺避免光纤的损伤。织造对光纤的损伤主要发生在卷取过程中，光纤与卷取轴的粗糙表面接触挤压产生破坏，因此对于结构简单的光纤织物，通过卷轴的挤压能获得一定侧发光效果。实验结果表明当织物的组织为16枚纬缎时，织物表面光纤与卷轴已经达到了最佳的接触面积，组织循环数继续增大，织物的侧发光强度不会再增加。在实际应用中，光纤提花织物结构复杂，花部与地部往往使织物表面凹凸不平，卷轴对光纤的挤压损伤不能使织物获得均匀的侧发光效果，所以光纤提花织物在织造时应尽量避免对光纤的损伤，而是通过织物组织结构中光纤的弯曲获得侧发光效果。我们通过组织结构设计使经纱、纬纱或是表层织物作为“保护层”，在织物形成过程中将光纤和卷轴粗糙面隔开，从而有效避免织造对光纤的损伤。
织物结构中光纤的弯曲使纤芯中传播的光不再满足全反射条件，光线在纤芯弯曲弧外侧漏出形成侧发光。论文从理论上推导出光纤弯曲半径与侧面透光率的关系，表明光纤的侧面透光率与纤芯半径正相关，与光纤的弯曲半径负相关，这和光纤弯曲模拟实验结果相符，也和不同弯曲半径下光纤织物的测试结果相符。光纤织物整体的侧发光强度由光纤的弯曲半径与浮长共同决定，而织物结构中光纤的弯曲半径与光纤浮长成正比，但是两者对侧发光强度的贡献却相反，因此在光纤提花织物设计中要综合考虑这两个因素。
综合以上影响光纤织物侧发光性能的因素，设计制作了既具有传统提花织物的装饰性，又具有图案动态显示，形成类似动画效果的光纤提花织物。
Polymer optical fiber jacquard fabrics are made by interlacing polymer optical fibers (POFs) and conventional textile yarns on a jacquard weaving machine to create luminous patterns on the fabric using the side-emitting properties of POFs and hence, the subject covers textiles technology, art design, electronics, materials science, etc. In this thesis, we studied the effects of weaving process and weave structure on the side-emitting properties of POF fabrics, and then produced a type of POF jacquard fabrics, which are capable of displaying dynamic patterns by combining with pattern and circuit designs.
It was very important to understand the mechanical motion configuration and different types of forces exerted on the fabric during the manufacturing process to enable successful weaving of the optical fibers. The POFs were damaged mainly in the process of take-up due to the take-up roll with tough surface put much stress on the fibers to wind up the cloth. In such a way, elementary weaves fabrics could obtain favorable side-illumination effect. The result indicated that the side-emitting intensity was no longer increased when the weave repeat increased to repeat of16due to the POFs were close to the largest contact area with take-up roll. However, POF jacquard fabrics, which were complicated in structure, with uneven surface were not able to obtain uniformity of side-emitting intensity during weaving process. Therefore the POFs should be protected in the process, and the side-illumination effect to the fabric was imparted by bending of POFs in different jacquard weaves. To avoid the damage to the POFs, separation was an effective approach. POFs were separated from the take-up roll during weaving process by a "protective layer" which formed by warp threads, weft threads or a top layer of fabric based on weave construction design.
Bending of POF caused the light rays in the core did not meet the condition for total internal reflection, and the light rays emitted from the outside of the bend section. In this thesis, the relationship between bending radius and side-emitting intensity of POF was deduced. The equation showed that the side-emitting intensity is positively associated with the core radius and inversely associated with the bending radius. The theory deduction was hardly difference between the results of simulation experiments and fabric experiments. However, the side-emitting intensity of POF fabric was also depended on POF float. The bending radius is increased in proportion to the float in woven fabric, but the benefits for side-emitting intensity of POF fabric in inverse proportion. Therefore, the two factors must be considered synthetically during the POF jacquard fabrics design.
Based on the above mentioned factors, the designed POF jacquard fabrics not only have decorative effect just as traditional jacquard fabrics, but also have animation effect.
织造过程中，光纤在织机传动机构的作用下受到不同形式的力，了解光纤在织造时的受力情况，有助于织造的顺利进行以及调整织造工艺避免光纤的损伤。织造对光纤的损伤主要发生在卷取过程中，光纤与卷取轴的粗糙表面接触挤压产生破坏，因此对于结构简单的光纤织物，通过卷轴的挤压能获得一定侧发光效果。实验结果表明当织物的组织为16枚纬缎时，织物表面光纤与卷轴已经达到了最佳的接触面积，组织循环数继续增大，织物的侧发光强度不会再增加。在实际应用中，光纤提花织物结构复杂，花部与地部往往使织物表面凹凸不平，卷轴对光纤的挤压损伤不能使织物获得均匀的侧发光效果，所以光纤提花织物在织造时应尽量避免对光纤的损伤，而是通过织物组织结构中光纤的弯曲获得侧发光效果。我们通过组织结构设计使经纱、纬纱或是表层织物作为“保护层”，在织物形成过程中将光纤和卷轴粗糙面隔开，从而有效避免织造对光纤的损伤。
织物结构中光纤的弯曲使纤芯中传播的光不再满足全反射条件，光线在纤芯弯曲弧外侧漏出形成侧发光。论文从理论上推导出光纤弯曲半径与侧面透光率的关系，表明光纤的侧面透光率与纤芯半径正相关，与光纤的弯曲半径负相关，这和光纤弯曲模拟实验结果相符，也和不同弯曲半径下光纤织物的测试结果相符。光纤织物整体的侧发光强度由光纤的弯曲半径与浮长共同决定，而织物结构中光纤的弯曲半径与光纤浮长成正比，但是两者对侧发光强度的贡献却相反，因此在光纤提花织物设计中要综合考虑这两个因素。
综合以上影响光纤织物侧发光性能的因素，设计制作了既具有传统提花织物的装饰性，又具有图案动态显示，形成类似动画效果的光纤提花织物。
Polymer optical fiber jacquard fabrics are made by interlacing polymer optical fibers (POFs) and conventional textile yarns on a jacquard weaving machine to create luminous patterns on the fabric using the side-emitting properties of POFs and hence, the subject covers textiles technology, art design, electronics, materials science, etc. In this thesis, we studied the effects of weaving process and weave structure on the side-emitting properties of POF fabrics, and then produced a type of POF jacquard fabrics, which are capable of displaying dynamic patterns by combining with pattern and circuit designs.
It was very important to understand the mechanical motion configuration and different types of forces exerted on the fabric during the manufacturing process to enable successful weaving of the optical fibers. The POFs were damaged mainly in the process of take-up due to the take-up roll with tough surface put much stress on the fibers to wind up the cloth. In such a way, elementary weaves fabrics could obtain favorable side-illumination effect. The result indicated that the side-emitting intensity was no longer increased when the weave repeat increased to repeat of16due to the POFs were close to the largest contact area with take-up roll. However, POF jacquard fabrics, which were complicated in structure, with uneven surface were not able to obtain uniformity of side-emitting intensity during weaving process. Therefore the POFs should be protected in the process, and the side-illumination effect to the fabric was imparted by bending of POFs in different jacquard weaves. To avoid the damage to the POFs, separation was an effective approach. POFs were separated from the take-up roll during weaving process by a "protective layer" which formed by warp threads, weft threads or a top layer of fabric based on weave construction design.
Bending of POF caused the light rays in the core did not meet the condition for total internal reflection, and the light rays emitted from the outside of the bend section. In this thesis, the relationship between bending radius and side-emitting intensity of POF was deduced. The equation showed that the side-emitting intensity is positively associated with the core radius and inversely associated with the bending radius. The theory deduction was hardly difference between the results of simulation experiments and fabric experiments. However, the side-emitting intensity of POF fabric was also depended on POF float. The bending radius is increased in proportion to the float in woven fabric, but the benefits for side-emitting intensity of POF fabric in inverse proportion. Therefore, the two factors must be considered synthetically during the POF jacquard fabrics design.
Based on the above mentioned factors, the designed POF jacquard fabrics not only have decorative effect just as traditional jacquard fabrics, but also have animation effect.
引文
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[2]储九荣,徐传骧.高聚物光纤的研究进展[J].功能高分子学报,1998,11(4)：566-572.
[3]江源,邹宁宁.聚合物光纤[M].北京：化学工业出版社,2002.
[4]江源,殷志东.光纤照明及应用[M].北京：化学工业出版社,2009.
[5]江源,凌根华,殷志东.侧面发光光纤的制备原理及其应用[J].光纤与电缆及其应用技术,2000(4)：10-16.
[6]Selm B, Garel E A, Rothmaier M, et al. Polymeric optical fiber fabrics for illumination and sensorial applications in textiles[J]. Journal of Intelligent Material Systems and Structures,2010,21(11):1061-1071.
[7]Man W K, Tao X M, Leung M Y, et al. Polymer optical fibers in the textile and clothing industry[J]. Taiwan Textile Research Journal,2007,17(1):15-19.
[8]Tao X. Wearable Electronics and Photonics[M]. London:CRC Press,2005.
[9]Oscarsson L, Heimdahl J, Lundell T, et al. Development of a diamond shaped light radiating textile-an experimental flat knitting process with optical fibres[C]. The Second Ambience International Scientific Conference, Boras,2008:115-121.
[10]Oscarsson L, Heimdal E J, Lundell T, et al. Flat knitting of a light emitting textile with optical fibres[J]. Autex Research Journal,2009,9(2):61-65.
[11]Rothmaier M, Selm B, Spichtig S, et al. Photonic textiles for pulse oximetry[J]. Optics Express,2008,16(17):12973-12986.
[12]Derick B N, Synder J S. Luminous textile products[P]. United States Patent:3508589,1967-10-27.
[13]Spigulis J. Side-emitting fibers brighten our world in new ways[J]. Optics and Photonics News,2005,16(10):34-39.
[14]Spigulis J, Pfafrods D, Stafeckis M, et al. Glowing optical fiber designs and parameters[C]. Proceedings of SPIE-The International Society for Optical Engineering, Riga,1997:231-236.
[15]Daniel M, Lake A. Light emitting fabric[P]. United States Patent:4234907,1980-11-18.
[16]武睿,王金春,杨斌.拉伸对光纤侧发光性能的影响[J].纺织学报,2011,32(7)：8-11.
[17]Harlin A, Makinen M, Vuorivirta A. Development of polymeric optical fibre fabrics as illumination elements and textile displays[J]. Autex Research Journal,2003,3(1):1-8.
[18]何惠铃.塑腭光触舆LED於发光家饰梭織物的设计与研究[D].台湾：树德科技大学应用设计研究所,2009.
[19]Bernasson A, Peuvegne H. Optical fiber with multiple point lateral illumination[P]. United States Patent:5737472,1998-04-07.
[20]杨斌,陈园园,盖国平.PMMA芯光纤侧面发光的制备及表征[J].材料工程,2007(S1)：36-41.
[21]Im M H, Park E J, Kim C H, et al. Modification of plastic optical fiber for side-illumination[C]. The12th International Conference on Human-Computer Interaction, Beijing,2007:1123-1129.
[22]Gokarneshan N, Dhanapal P. Technology of illuminative fabrics[J]. Journal of the Textile Association,2007,67(6):267-270.
[23]Gokarneshan N. Illuminative Fabrics:An overview[J]. Asian Dyer,2007,4(2):52-54.
[24]Shen J, Tao X M, Ying D Q, et al. Side-emitting properties of POFs with surface patterns in bend woven fabrics[C]. The Fiber Society2011Spring Conference, Hong kong,2011:235-236.
[25]Cho G. Smart Clothing:Technology and Applications[M]. London:CRC Press,2009.
[26]薛梦驰.光纤弯曲损耗的研究与测试[J].电信科学,2009(7)：57-62.
[27]Harlin A, Myllyma" ki H, Grahn K. Polymeric optical fibres and future prospects in textile integration[J]. Autex Research Journal,2002,2(3):132-143.
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