服装纸样设计新方法的研究
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摘要
现行服装纸样制作方法大体上可分为两种：比例法，原型法。比例裁剪和原型裁剪是目前国内最主要的两大服装结构理论学派，是从不同角度揭示人体与服装结构关系的两种理论，对我国服装加工制造业的发展起了积极的促进作用。但其自身也存在着一些不足。例如，比例法控制部位尺寸过多，且缺乏系统性、统一性。原型法恰恰相反，其系统性和原理性较强，但可操作性不如前者。
服装业的日新月异，迫切需要突破方法之间的局限性，尽快推出学用两便的纸样制作方法。本研究项目立足不作重复性的测试和研究，大量收集整理现有的资料、数据和研究结论，在此基础上，以我国人体体态资料为依据，进一步充实、完善服装结构理论，最终推出新的纸样制作方法—基型法。“基型法”是通过分析国人人体体态数据和特征，选定符合国人体型的控制部位，并结合服装结构分类的理论，最终推出各种结构类型下的服装基础纸样。作为服装制图、结构设计的依据。而结构类型相同的其它纸样则可以通过对基础纸样的修改或变化来实现。这种方法简易方便且直观实用。
基型法对现行服装CAD系统软件具有广泛的适用性，这是基型法区别于其它纸样制作方法的独特优势。此法在服装CAD系统下时，只需在操作过程中建立一个结构样本库，每种结构的第一个款式，都要用户自己制作，而同一结构的其它款式就可以在现有结构款式上进行修改，从而得到客户要求的款式。
The current clothing pattern manufacture methods can be divided into two kinds on the whole: proportion law and the law of prototype. As domestic two major main clothing structure theory schools at present, the proportion and the prototype is cut out. It is two kinds of theories employed to show the relation of the human body and the clothing structure from different angles, which has played a positive role in the further development of the clothing manufacturing industry in our country. But it has also got certain shortages by itself. For example proportion law makes too much control on the position and lacks the systematization and the unity. Prototype law, just the opposite, has got relatively strong systematization and principle, the effectiveness is not so good as the former.
The change of the clothing industry, need to break through the limitation between the methods urgently, put out and learn to use the convenience to both pattern manufacturing method as soon as possible. This research project has a foothold and avoids repeated test and study, a large amount of compiles existing materials, data and research conclusion, on this basis, are based on human figure materials of our country, substantiate, perfect the structure theory of the clothing further, put out the new pattern manufacture method finally-basic law. "Basic law" means that various kinds of clothing basic pattern under different types of structures should be obtained by making analyse of the data and characteristics of the human attitude, selecting the compatriot control position of size, and making combination of the pattern of type finally. Make maps as clothing, basic that structure design. While other pattern with the similar structure and type can be got by making amendments to the basic pattern. This kind of m
ethod is simple, convenient ocular and practical.
Basic law has extensive suitability to current system soft ware, CAD of clothing. This is the unique advantage of the basic law that is different from other pattern manufacturing methods. This law need only set up a structure sample storehouse in the course of operating under the clothing CAD system. Bach first
style of the structure should be made by the users themselves, and other styles of the same structure can be amended to the existing structure style, thus the style requires by the customers can be available.
服装业的日新月异，迫切需要突破方法之间的局限性，尽快推出学用两便的纸样制作方法。本研究项目立足不作重复性的测试和研究，大量收集整理现有的资料、数据和研究结论，在此基础上，以我国人体体态资料为依据，进一步充实、完善服装结构理论，最终推出新的纸样制作方法—基型法。“基型法”是通过分析国人人体体态数据和特征，选定符合国人体型的控制部位，并结合服装结构分类的理论，最终推出各种结构类型下的服装基础纸样。作为服装制图、结构设计的依据。而结构类型相同的其它纸样则可以通过对基础纸样的修改或变化来实现。这种方法简易方便且直观实用。
基型法对现行服装CAD系统软件具有广泛的适用性，这是基型法区别于其它纸样制作方法的独特优势。此法在服装CAD系统下时，只需在操作过程中建立一个结构样本库，每种结构的第一个款式，都要用户自己制作，而同一结构的其它款式就可以在现有结构款式上进行修改，从而得到客户要求的款式。
The current clothing pattern manufacture methods can be divided into two kinds on the whole: proportion law and the law of prototype. As domestic two major main clothing structure theory schools at present, the proportion and the prototype is cut out. It is two kinds of theories employed to show the relation of the human body and the clothing structure from different angles, which has played a positive role in the further development of the clothing manufacturing industry in our country. But it has also got certain shortages by itself. For example proportion law makes too much control on the position and lacks the systematization and the unity. Prototype law, just the opposite, has got relatively strong systematization and principle, the effectiveness is not so good as the former.
The change of the clothing industry, need to break through the limitation between the methods urgently, put out and learn to use the convenience to both pattern manufacturing method as soon as possible. This research project has a foothold and avoids repeated test and study, a large amount of compiles existing materials, data and research conclusion, on this basis, are based on human figure materials of our country, substantiate, perfect the structure theory of the clothing further, put out the new pattern manufacture method finally-basic law. "Basic law" means that various kinds of clothing basic pattern under different types of structures should be obtained by making analyse of the data and characteristics of the human attitude, selecting the compatriot control position of size, and making combination of the pattern of type finally. Make maps as clothing, basic that structure design. While other pattern with the similar structure and type can be got by making amendments to the basic pattern. This kind of m
ethod is simple, convenient ocular and practical.
Basic law has extensive suitability to current system soft ware, CAD of clothing. This is the unique advantage of the basic law that is different from other pattern manufacturing methods. This law need only set up a structure sample storehouse in the course of operating under the clothing CAD system. Bach first
style of the structure should be made by the users themselves, and other styles of the same structure can be amended to the existing structure style, thus the style requires by the customers can be available.
引文
[1] 刘瑞璞，刘维和．女装纸样设计原理与应用．中国纺织出版社，2002
[2] 纳塔莉·布雷著，王永进，赵欲晓，高凌泽译．英国经典服装纸样设计．中国纺织出版社，2001
[3] 欧内斯廷·科博，维特罗纳·罗尔夫，比阿特丽斯·泽林，李·格罗斯著，戴鸿，刘静等译．服装纸样设计原理与应用．中国纺织出版社，2002
[4] 马林．服装基型裁剪与基型模板操作技法．中国纺织出版社，1997
[5] 魏雪晶．中国服装原型法——女装制板技术．中国轻工业出版社，2000
[6] 吕学海．服装结构设计与技法．中国纺织出版社，2000
[7] 张文斌．服装结构设计与疵病补正技术．中国纺织出版社，2001
[8] 韩滨颖，李桂荣，魏静．现代女装原型裁剪技术．中国轻工业出版社，1999
[9] 吕学海．服装结构制图．中国纺织出版社，2002
[10] 先梅．服装梅式原型直裁法讲座．中国纺织出版社，2000
[11] 魏雪晶，魏丽．服装结构原理与制板推板技术．中国纺织出版社，2002
[12] 张文斌．服装工艺学(结构设计分册)．中国纺织出版社，2002
[13] 阎玉秀，章永红．服装样板技术与应用技巧．中国纺织出版社，2000
[14] 王海亮，唐建．服装制图技术．中国纺织出版社，2002
[15] 吴俊．女装结构设计与应用．中国纺织出版社，2000
[16] 吴瑞芳等著．西装裁剪工艺．上海科学技术出版社，1986
[17] 朱光尧．上海服装结构设计．中国纺织大学出版社，1996
[18] 李欧华．原型裁剪．高等教育出版社．2000
[19] 陈晓鹏．最新女装结构设计．上海科学技术出版社，2000
[20] 谢朝，郑瑞平．女装纸样设计教程．中国纺织出版社，1999
[21] 蒋锡根．服装结构设计——服装母型裁剪法．上海科学技术出版社，1994
[22] 韩滨颖，李桂荣，高岩．现代服装纸样设计．中国纺织出版社，2001
[23] 中泽 愈著，袁观络译．人体与服装．中国纺织出版社，2000
[24] 李青，徐雅琴，苏石民．服装制图与样板技术．中国纺织出版社，1997
[25] 戴鸿．服装号型标准及其应用．中国纺织出版社，2002
[26] 森郁子．服装样板设计技术．中国轻工业出版社，2000
[27] 王海亮，周邦桢．服装制图与推板技术．中国纺织出版社，2001
[28] 周邦桢．高档女装结构设计制图．中国纺织出版社，2001
[30] 李兰友，张洪志，韩其睿．服装CAD原理与应用．中国纺织出版社，1997
[31] 徐佳．服装CAD实践．中国纺织出版社，1997
[2] 纳塔莉·布雷著，王永进，赵欲晓，高凌泽译．英国经典服装纸样设计．中国纺织出版社，2001
[3] 欧内斯廷·科博，维特罗纳·罗尔夫，比阿特丽斯·泽林，李·格罗斯著，戴鸿，刘静等译．服装纸样设计原理与应用．中国纺织出版社，2002
[4] 马林．服装基型裁剪与基型模板操作技法．中国纺织出版社，1997
[5] 魏雪晶．中国服装原型法——女装制板技术．中国轻工业出版社，2000
[6] 吕学海．服装结构设计与技法．中国纺织出版社，2000
[7] 张文斌．服装结构设计与疵病补正技术．中国纺织出版社，2001
[8] 韩滨颖，李桂荣，魏静．现代女装原型裁剪技术．中国轻工业出版社，1999
[9] 吕学海．服装结构制图．中国纺织出版社，2002
[10] 先梅．服装梅式原型直裁法讲座．中国纺织出版社，2000
[11] 魏雪晶，魏丽．服装结构原理与制板推板技术．中国纺织出版社，2002
[12] 张文斌．服装工艺学(结构设计分册)．中国纺织出版社，2002
[13] 阎玉秀，章永红．服装样板技术与应用技巧．中国纺织出版社，2000
[14] 王海亮，唐建．服装制图技术．中国纺织出版社，2002
[15] 吴俊．女装结构设计与应用．中国纺织出版社，2000
[16] 吴瑞芳等著．西装裁剪工艺．上海科学技术出版社，1986
[17] 朱光尧．上海服装结构设计．中国纺织大学出版社，1996
[18] 李欧华．原型裁剪．高等教育出版社．2000
[19] 陈晓鹏．最新女装结构设计．上海科学技术出版社，2000
[20] 谢朝，郑瑞平．女装纸样设计教程．中国纺织出版社，1999
[21] 蒋锡根．服装结构设计——服装母型裁剪法．上海科学技术出版社，1994
[22] 韩滨颖，李桂荣，高岩．现代服装纸样设计．中国纺织出版社，2001
[23] 中泽 愈著，袁观络译．人体与服装．中国纺织出版社，2000
[24] 李青，徐雅琴，苏石民．服装制图与样板技术．中国纺织出版社，1997
[25] 戴鸿．服装号型标准及其应用．中国纺织出版社，2002
[26] 森郁子．服装样板设计技术．中国轻工业出版社，2000
[27] 王海亮，周邦桢．服装制图与推板技术．中国纺织出版社，2001
[28] 周邦桢．高档女装结构设计制图．中国纺织出版社，2001
[30] 李兰友，张洪志，韩其睿．服装CAD原理与应用．中国纺织出版社，1997
[31] 徐佳．服装CAD实践．中国纺织出版社，1997