现代女装设计元素研究
摘要
当代社会正在经历一场深刻的观念变革，服装设计作为与人民生活息息相关的一个设计大类，其设计思维与设计方法必然产生相应的更新。女装设计作为服装流行的典型代表，清晰地反映了这种影响带来的变化：设计变得更为人性化、多元化，更加讲求构成产品的各个部分的个性搭配和组合。把服装看作一个系统来分析，构成系统的最小设计语言就是服装设计元素。服装设计元素承担了服装构成的物质基础和传达流行信息的媒介，它在服装设计中遵循着一定的规律进行组合，构成不同的具体服装形式。元素的概念在服装设计实际操作中经常使用，但是缺乏全面系统的理论论述。结合当代社会发展的新特点，运用系统的观点对女装设计中的元素运用规律进行研究，通过分析女装设计元素的题材来源、构成分类，综合艺术设计的创作规律和系统的特性，寻找元素组合再造的内在规律，可以在现代女装设计领域中探索一种新的设计思维方式，丰富和充实服装设计的理论体系，使女装的设计实践变得更加理性化。
通过上述研究，得出以下结论：
1)用系统的观点分析服装，可以将女装看作是一个由若干相互关联的元素组成的完整的系统，女装设计也可以分解到元素的层面来研究。
2)女装设计元素题材来源广泛，大致可以分为经典、自然、男装、艺术、传统、民族、科技七大类别。
3)女装设计元素按照形态不同可以分为外部轮廓、内部结构、色彩、图案、材质、工艺、装饰附件七部分，此外还可以按照流行度的不同分为落伍元素、基本元素和流行元素；按照创新度的不同分为现有元素和创新元素。它们都是构成完整的女装系统的最基础部分。
4)设计元素在设计实践中遵循着一般设计共通的形式法则，可以从形态、质态、量态和结构上对其进行控制，通过夸张、重复、易位、打散、比例、呼应等方式在服装上用鲜明的视觉语言独具美感的构图。
5)瞬息万变的现代社会，流行凸现出多样性、多变性和不确定性的特征，女装的流行由对具体款式的模仿转变为对特定风格的元素群的热衷。流行系统是由一级级服装子系统组成的，元素在流行的传播中起着传递流行信息、形成流行风格、确立流行样式的作用。用系统的观点分析服装及流行现象有助于
设计师理性地看待服装流行。
6)国际流行元素通过吸收和借鉴实现本土化，同时由设计师们根据本地的具体
情况推出自己的流行元素。元素是带有风格特征的，风格化元素通过同素异
构和异素同构的使用可以协调品牌风格和流行之间的矛盾。
Our society is undergoing a profound innovation of conception. As a principal
sort of design, fashion design have close relationship with our daily life. The thinking mode and methodology of fashion design are bound to transform with the change of our conception. As a representative of fashion clothing, the transformation of women's wear reflects this conception change clearly: the design of women's wear becoming more humanity and many-faceted, and seeking the personal fabricate of parts of products. Analyse the women's wear as a system, the min-design language which make-up the system is design elements. Design elements not only are the substance of clothing, but also are the medium in fashion disseminating. They composed wiith some rules in the process of the design. Clothing is the result of composing of various elements. The concept of elements is always used in the working of fashion design, but the full-scale expound is lacked. By synthesizing the new character of newadays socirty and the feature of the system, refering to the rules of art design, research on the rules of the design of women's wear can make us a new design thingking mode, enrich the theory of fashion design, and make the design of women's wear to be more reasonable. With the study of the elements of women's wear, wo can make conclusions as follow:
1. Analysed with the viewpoint of system theory, women's wear can looked as a system which is composed by some elements related each other. The design of women's wear can also looked as a process of the composing of some elements.
2. The subject matter of women's wear design is wide-ranging, they can be arrtanged to 7 categories: classic, natural, men's wear, art, traditional, ethnic, science.
3. The elements of women's wear design can be sorted as shape, popularity'degree and new-create'degree. To sorted as shape, they can ben arranged to: silhouette, interior structure, colour, pattern, material, craft and accessary; to sorted as popularity'degree, they can be arranged to out-elements, basic-elements and prevailing elements; to be sorted as new-create'degree, they can be arranged to extant elements and innovative elements.
4. Except of some common rules with other art design, the design elements of women's wear abide by some specific rules such as exaggerate, repeat, locomotion, scatter, scale and echo.
5. In today' society, fashion come to be changeable, manyfaceted and unsured, the prevalence of fashion is also a complicated system, it consist of many subsystems. During the process of fashion disseminating, elements transmit the fashion massages, take shape of the fashion style and establish the fashion pattern.
6. Indigenization of the international fashion elements is very important to our interior fashion designer. To take use of the style of elements can produce a harmony of brand's style and prevailing style.
通过上述研究，得出以下结论：
1)用系统的观点分析服装，可以将女装看作是一个由若干相互关联的元素组成的完整的系统，女装设计也可以分解到元素的层面来研究。
2)女装设计元素题材来源广泛，大致可以分为经典、自然、男装、艺术、传统、民族、科技七大类别。
3)女装设计元素按照形态不同可以分为外部轮廓、内部结构、色彩、图案、材质、工艺、装饰附件七部分，此外还可以按照流行度的不同分为落伍元素、基本元素和流行元素；按照创新度的不同分为现有元素和创新元素。它们都是构成完整的女装系统的最基础部分。
4)设计元素在设计实践中遵循着一般设计共通的形式法则，可以从形态、质态、量态和结构上对其进行控制，通过夸张、重复、易位、打散、比例、呼应等方式在服装上用鲜明的视觉语言独具美感的构图。
5)瞬息万变的现代社会，流行凸现出多样性、多变性和不确定性的特征，女装的流行由对具体款式的模仿转变为对特定风格的元素群的热衷。流行系统是由一级级服装子系统组成的，元素在流行的传播中起着传递流行信息、形成流行风格、确立流行样式的作用。用系统的观点分析服装及流行现象有助于
设计师理性地看待服装流行。
6)国际流行元素通过吸收和借鉴实现本土化，同时由设计师们根据本地的具体
情况推出自己的流行元素。元素是带有风格特征的，风格化元素通过同素异
构和异素同构的使用可以协调品牌风格和流行之间的矛盾。
Our society is undergoing a profound innovation of conception. As a principal
sort of design, fashion design have close relationship with our daily life. The thinking mode and methodology of fashion design are bound to transform with the change of our conception. As a representative of fashion clothing, the transformation of women's wear reflects this conception change clearly: the design of women's wear becoming more humanity and many-faceted, and seeking the personal fabricate of parts of products. Analyse the women's wear as a system, the min-design language which make-up the system is design elements. Design elements not only are the substance of clothing, but also are the medium in fashion disseminating. They composed wiith some rules in the process of the design. Clothing is the result of composing of various elements. The concept of elements is always used in the working of fashion design, but the full-scale expound is lacked. By synthesizing the new character of newadays socirty and the feature of the system, refering to the rules of art design, research on the rules of the design of women's wear can make us a new design thingking mode, enrich the theory of fashion design, and make the design of women's wear to be more reasonable. With the study of the elements of women's wear, wo can make conclusions as follow:
1. Analysed with the viewpoint of system theory, women's wear can looked as a system which is composed by some elements related each other. The design of women's wear can also looked as a process of the composing of some elements.
2. The subject matter of women's wear design is wide-ranging, they can be arrtanged to 7 categories: classic, natural, men's wear, art, traditional, ethnic, science.
3. The elements of women's wear design can be sorted as shape, popularity'degree and new-create'degree. To sorted as shape, they can ben arranged to: silhouette, interior structure, colour, pattern, material, craft and accessary; to sorted as popularity'degree, they can be arranged to out-elements, basic-elements and prevailing elements; to be sorted as new-create'degree, they can be arranged to extant elements and innovative elements.
4. Except of some common rules with other art design, the design elements of women's wear abide by some specific rules such as exaggerate, repeat, locomotion, scatter, scale and echo.
5. In today' society, fashion come to be changeable, manyfaceted and unsured, the prevalence of fashion is also a complicated system, it consist of many subsystems. During the process of fashion disseminating, elements transmit the fashion massages, take shape of the fashion style and establish the fashion pattern.
6. Indigenization of the international fashion elements is very important to our interior fashion designer. To take use of the style of elements can produce a harmony of brand's style and prevailing style.
引文
1．刘晓刚，服装设计艺术，1997，中国纺织大学出版社，上海
2．刘晓刚，服装设计元素论，东华大学学报(自然科学版)，第29卷第2期 总第142期
3．刘晓刚，稳定品牌风格的关键问题，中国纺织，2002年4月号，30-32页
4．包铭新，时髦词典，1999，上海文化出版社，上海
5．李当歧，服装学概论，1998，高等教育出版社，北京
6．尹定邦，设计学概论，1999，湖南科学技术出版社，长沙
7．卞向阳，现代服装设计的民族传统主题，‘99上海国际服装文化节国际服装论坛论文集，25-27页
8．清华大学美术学院《装饰》杂志社编，现代设计之窗，2001，辽宁美术出版社，沈阳
9．张乃仁，设计辞典，2002，北京理工大学出版社，北京
10．吴卫刚，服装美学，2000，中国纺织出版社，北京
11．张乃仁、杨蔼琪译著，外国服装艺术史，1992，人民美术出版社，北京
12．张星，服装流行与设计，2000，中国纺织出版社，北京
13．杨顺泰、王卫平，设计的基础与应用，2003，上海教育出版社，上海
14．吴士元，服装构成基础，1995，黑龙江教育出版社，哈尔滨
15．鲍小龙、刘月蕊，现代装饰图案设计，2002，东华大学出版社，上海
16．夏征农主编，辞海，1989，上海辞书出版社，上海
17．张华夏，物质系统论，1987，浙江人民出版社
18．乌杰，系统辩证论，1997，人民出版社，北京
19．黄麟雏等，系统思想与方法，1984，陕西人民出版社，西安
20．余强，装饰与着装艺术，2003，重庆出版社，重庆
21．于蕾，香奈儿，2003，中国旅游出版社，北京
22．(法)马克·第亚尼，滕守尧译，非物质社会——后工业世界的设计、文化与技术，1998，四川人民出版社，成都
23．(美)塞缪尔·亨廷顿，周琪等译，文明的冲突与世界秩序的重建，2002，新华出版社，北京
24．(美)阿尔文·托夫勒，朱志焱等译，第三次浪潮，1996，新华出版社，北京
25．(日)饭塚弘子，李祖旺等编译，服装设计学概论，2002，中国轻工业出版社，北京
26．(英)伯尼斯·马丁，李中泽译，当代社会与文化艺术，2000，四川人民出版社，成都
27．(美)Susan B．Kaiser，李宏伟译，服装社会心理学，2000，中国纺织出版社，北京
28．(美)Rita Perna，李宏伟等译，流行预测，2000，中国纺织出版社，北京
29．(美)Marilyn J．Horn，乐竞泓等译，服饰：人的第二层皮肤，1991，上海人民出版社，上海
30．(美)Alison Lurie，李长青译，解读服装，2000，中国纺织出版社，北京
31．(美)克雷克，舒允中译，时装的面貌，2000，中央编译出版社，北京
32．(美)鲁道夫·阿恩海姆，滕守尧等译，艺术与视知觉，1984，中国社会科学出版社，北京
33．(法)J·J·德卢西奥—迈耶，李纬、周水涛译，视觉美学，1996，上海人民美术出版社，上海
34. Sharon Lee Tate, Iiside Fashion Design, 1985, Harper&Row Publishers, New Tork
35. Rita Gersten, Fashion Art for the Fashion Industry, 1985, Fairchild Publications, New York
36. Patrick John Ireland, Fashion Design, 1983, Cambridge Univ.pr.
37. Roland Barthes, the Fashion System, 1985, Jonathan Cape
38. Christopher Breward, Fashion, 2003, Oxford University Press
39. Helen L. Brockman, the Theory of Fashion Design, 1965, Wiley
40. Daniel Roche, the Culture of clothing, 1994, Cambridge Univ.pr.
41. Catherine Houck, The fashion encyclopedia, 1982, St.Martin's Press
42. Gini Stephens Frings, Fashion from concept to consumer, 1987, Prentice-Hall
2．刘晓刚，服装设计元素论，东华大学学报(自然科学版)，第29卷第2期 总第142期
3．刘晓刚，稳定品牌风格的关键问题，中国纺织，2002年4月号，30-32页
4．包铭新，时髦词典，1999，上海文化出版社，上海
5．李当歧，服装学概论，1998，高等教育出版社，北京
6．尹定邦，设计学概论，1999，湖南科学技术出版社，长沙
7．卞向阳，现代服装设计的民族传统主题，‘99上海国际服装文化节国际服装论坛论文集，25-27页
8．清华大学美术学院《装饰》杂志社编，现代设计之窗，2001，辽宁美术出版社，沈阳
9．张乃仁，设计辞典，2002，北京理工大学出版社，北京
10．吴卫刚，服装美学，2000，中国纺织出版社，北京
11．张乃仁、杨蔼琪译著，外国服装艺术史，1992，人民美术出版社，北京
12．张星，服装流行与设计，2000，中国纺织出版社，北京
13．杨顺泰、王卫平，设计的基础与应用，2003，上海教育出版社，上海
14．吴士元，服装构成基础，1995，黑龙江教育出版社，哈尔滨
15．鲍小龙、刘月蕊，现代装饰图案设计，2002，东华大学出版社，上海
16．夏征农主编，辞海，1989，上海辞书出版社，上海
17．张华夏，物质系统论，1987，浙江人民出版社
18．乌杰，系统辩证论，1997，人民出版社，北京
19．黄麟雏等，系统思想与方法，1984，陕西人民出版社，西安
20．余强，装饰与着装艺术，2003，重庆出版社，重庆
21．于蕾，香奈儿，2003，中国旅游出版社，北京
22．(法)马克·第亚尼，滕守尧译，非物质社会——后工业世界的设计、文化与技术，1998，四川人民出版社，成都
23．(美)塞缪尔·亨廷顿，周琪等译，文明的冲突与世界秩序的重建，2002，新华出版社，北京
24．(美)阿尔文·托夫勒，朱志焱等译，第三次浪潮，1996，新华出版社，北京
25．(日)饭塚弘子，李祖旺等编译，服装设计学概论，2002，中国轻工业出版社，北京
26．(英)伯尼斯·马丁，李中泽译，当代社会与文化艺术，2000，四川人民出版社，成都
27．(美)Susan B．Kaiser，李宏伟译，服装社会心理学，2000，中国纺织出版社，北京
28．(美)Rita Perna，李宏伟等译，流行预测，2000，中国纺织出版社，北京
29．(美)Marilyn J．Horn，乐竞泓等译，服饰：人的第二层皮肤，1991，上海人民出版社，上海
30．(美)Alison Lurie，李长青译，解读服装，2000，中国纺织出版社，北京
31．(美)克雷克，舒允中译，时装的面貌，2000，中央编译出版社，北京
32．(美)鲁道夫·阿恩海姆，滕守尧等译，艺术与视知觉，1984，中国社会科学出版社，北京
33．(法)J·J·德卢西奥—迈耶，李纬、周水涛译，视觉美学，1996，上海人民美术出版社，上海
34. Sharon Lee Tate, Iiside Fashion Design, 1985, Harper&Row Publishers, New Tork
35. Rita Gersten, Fashion Art for the Fashion Industry, 1985, Fairchild Publications, New York
36. Patrick John Ireland, Fashion Design, 1983, Cambridge Univ.pr.
37. Roland Barthes, the Fashion System, 1985, Jonathan Cape
38. Christopher Breward, Fashion, 2003, Oxford University Press
39. Helen L. Brockman, the Theory of Fashion Design, 1965, Wiley
40. Daniel Roche, the Culture of clothing, 1994, Cambridge Univ.pr.
41. Catherine Houck, The fashion encyclopedia, 1982, St.Martin's Press
42. Gini Stephens Frings, Fashion from concept to consumer, 1987, Prentice-Hall