Zara成功战略研究
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摘要
20世纪80年代后期开始,国际知名时装品牌逐步进入中国市场。目前在中国市场大约有60多个世界高端时装品牌和500多个世界知名服装品牌。在北京和上海等经济发达的中心城市,不仅高端时装市场为国际品牌所占据,而且国际知名品牌也已经开始向中高端,甚至终端服装市场快速渗透。在大众市场上,国际二线,三线品牌进入中国的速度越来越快,数量也越来越多。近几年来,国际著名的四大快时尚品牌,Zara, H&M, C&A和Gap,纷纷进入中国市场,定位于大众档次的中国本土品牌面临着巨大的竞争压力。中国现在面临的困境是一味的引进来,中国的服装品牌却无法走出去。外来的品牌中,以西班牙的品牌Zara发展势头最为强劲.
Zara目前已经超过前服装零售巨头美国Gap,成为世界第一。Zara于1975年起步,短短30几年时间从一个家庭作坊逐步发展为世界零售巨头,从一个西班牙品牌发展成为世界化品牌,其发展历程以及发展模式值得人们深思。
Zara被评为是时装业的"DELL"电脑,时装业的斯沃琪手表,被哈佛评论认为是欧洲最具研究价值的品牌;以及被某高端时装品牌设计总监认为是世界上最具破坏力的品牌。
Zara的成功不是偶然的：不仅在于他敢逆传统而行,在于极速的供应链系统,在于设计中创造性的模仿。当其他服装企业淘汰垂直生产模式的时候,Zara恰恰采用垂直的生产模式,从原料的采购到服装的设计,生产,物流配送,销售,总部一站式,全程参与；为了压低服装的生产成本,几乎所有的服装企业将生产环节外包,只有Zara坚持“欧洲制造”；在物流配送中,Zara不惜投入大量资本挖空西班牙总部方圆20公里的地下通道,运用地下传送带将运输到西班牙拉科鲁尼亚的货物配送中心,然后将产品运往世界各地；在Zara的所有分店中,销售经理配备PDA信息系统,随时向总部反馈产品的销售情况以及市场的反馈,以为下一期生产提供参考；Zara拥有400多名年轻的设计师和时尚买手,几乎每周都要飞往西班牙总部,他们不是预测服装潮流,而是紧跟时尚,设计出当下流行的服装；一般而言,高端时装品牌会在销售季节提前六个月左右发布时装信息,Zara的设计师们则迅速将潮流信息反馈回总部,然后由ZARA专业的时装设计师分类别,款式及风格进行改版设计,重新组合成新的产品；因为经常性的模仿,Zara每年都要支付巨额的赔偿金,但是ZARA却乐此不疲。也因为此,深受消费者的青睐。设计师每年会有四到五万件设计,其中三分之一会投入生产。强大的设计能力是其他服装企业所不能望尘莫及的；Zara的快速反应还表现在完成整个产品周期只需15天,而国内企业大约需要6-9个月；由于采用“少量”“多款”“低价”的战略,Zara的库存量几乎为零,大大提高了资金的流通和使用效率。
Zara品牌是服装企业中的一个奇迹。与国内的服装企业相比,在设计,物流以及营销策略方面,国内企业都是不能望其项背的。
本文以Zara为主线,重点研究Zara的成功的营销策略以及国际化战略的制定和实施,以及对中国服装企业的经验和借鉴。本文分为五部分,第一部分介绍了服装企业发展的时代背景以及研究意义。第二部分是对全球服装产业的产业分析,包括中国以及世界其他地区。第三部分是关于Zara成功的因素分析,包括设计,生产,分销渠道,营销策略以及现代化信息系统的应用。第四部分以Zara的发展路径为基础,运用SWOT模型分析Zara的优势及劣势,机会和威胁。第五部分是对Zara国际化战略的分析和评价。最后一部分,是在Zara国际化战略的基础上,以双枝模型分析了在中国本土化的营销战略,并据此提出Zara发展过程中对中国国内服装企业发展以及国际化的启示。
World-famous apparel brands have gradually found their way into China market since the late 1980s. At present, about 60 high-end fashion brands and more than 500 world famous fashion brands co-exist in China market. In flourishing cities, namely Beijing and Shanghai, high-end fashion market has been occupied by international brands, and they have penetrated into the mid-end and low-end market rapidly. In the mass market, international second and third line brands have entered China market increasingly fast and more. In the recent years, the four international fast fashion retailers, Zara, H&M, C&A and Gap, enter China market in succession. Low price position has posed great pressure on local brands in China. The dilemma China has encountered is the sharp contrast that foreign brands keep coming inward while Chinese brands have difficulty going outward. Among the foreign brands, Zara is a typical case in point.
Zara outweighed Gap in 2006 and is the presently largest fashion retailer in the world fashion market. Rise in 1975, in mere 35 years, Zara has grown from a family shop into the top retailer globally, and from a Spanish brand into a primary brand in the world, Zara will give Chinese apparel enterprises much experience.
Zara is considered as "DELL" and "Swatch" in the fashion industry; Harvard comment has said that it is the most valuable brand worthy of researching; a supervisor of a luxury fashion brand held that Zara is the most "destructive" brand for its quick reaction to new fashion trend.
Zara's success is not occasional:its success lies in that it reverses the tradition in apparel industry, the quick supply system, and foremost, creatively imitation. When other apparel enterprises abandoned vertical production mode, Zara just choose the opposite:from purchasing material, design, distribution to promotion, headquarter highly involved in every part of the process. Unlike other apparel enterprises to outsource the production stage to reduce the production cost, Zara insist on "made in Europe"; in distribution stage, Zara spares a good money to dig an underground tunnel of 20 kilograms around the headquarter in Span so that they can transport the products on the underground conveyer to the logistic center to distribute the products to all the branch stores around the world. As for the individual stores, each shop manager has been equipped with a PDA machine so as to report to headquarter the feedback of the market for reference of next stage production. Besides, Zara has a powerful design team whose given name is "flyers" in the air. This team consists of more than 400 young designers and fashion buyers, and they often appear kinds of fashion show and fly to Spain for designs. What the designers do is to react quickly to the fashion trend instead of predicting it. In this way, they will have a good control of market demand. Normally for high-end fashion brands, they will release the fashion information six months in advance; Zara's designers will seize the opportunities to feedback all fashion information to the "head" of Zara, and then they will category the information, modify the styles and then re-construct new designs. Just because Zara often imitate from the top brands, it will pay a great sum of money in lawsuits on plagiarism. But Zara is too beneficial to stop. Also, it is the reason why Zara can win customers'trust and loyalty. There are more than forty to fifty thousand pieces of designs will be conceived, but only one third will be put into production. Excellent design ability is where other apparel enterprises can compete. Swiftness is the expertise that Zara can win:it can efficiently finish a product circle in only 15 days, comparing with 6-9 months in domestic market in China; with a strategy of "less quantity" "more styles" and "low price", Zara's inventory is almost zero contributing to high circulation speed and utility efficiency.
Zara has made a miracle among the apparel industry in the world. Chinese apparel enterprises can not catch up with Zara's pace in a short term because of Zara's excellent performance in design, logistics and promotion.
This thesis mainly focuses on its successful marketing strategies and implementation of internationalization strategies, and experience & lessons to Chinese apparel companies. There are mainly six parts in the paper, the first part focuses on the background of apparel industry development and the significance of study. In the second chapter, there is an analysis on the global apparel sector, including China and the other areas of the world. The third part focuses on the elements that have contributed to Zara's success, from perspectives of design, production, distribution channels, marketing skills and use of modern information system. In the fourth chapter, SWOT mode is introduced to analyze Zara's strength and weakness, opportunities and threats.In the fifth chapter, it is about the assessment of Zara's internalization strategy. And in the end, combining with Zara's internalization strategy, its localization strategy in China is analyzed and basing on that, Zara's significance to Chinese enterprises is put forward to provide China with some experience.
Zara目前已经超过前服装零售巨头美国Gap,成为世界第一。Zara于1975年起步,短短30几年时间从一个家庭作坊逐步发展为世界零售巨头,从一个西班牙品牌发展成为世界化品牌,其发展历程以及发展模式值得人们深思。
Zara被评为是时装业的"DELL"电脑,时装业的斯沃琪手表,被哈佛评论认为是欧洲最具研究价值的品牌;以及被某高端时装品牌设计总监认为是世界上最具破坏力的品牌。
Zara的成功不是偶然的：不仅在于他敢逆传统而行,在于极速的供应链系统,在于设计中创造性的模仿。当其他服装企业淘汰垂直生产模式的时候,Zara恰恰采用垂直的生产模式,从原料的采购到服装的设计,生产,物流配送,销售,总部一站式,全程参与；为了压低服装的生产成本,几乎所有的服装企业将生产环节外包,只有Zara坚持“欧洲制造”；在物流配送中,Zara不惜投入大量资本挖空西班牙总部方圆20公里的地下通道,运用地下传送带将运输到西班牙拉科鲁尼亚的货物配送中心,然后将产品运往世界各地；在Zara的所有分店中,销售经理配备PDA信息系统,随时向总部反馈产品的销售情况以及市场的反馈,以为下一期生产提供参考；Zara拥有400多名年轻的设计师和时尚买手,几乎每周都要飞往西班牙总部,他们不是预测服装潮流,而是紧跟时尚,设计出当下流行的服装；一般而言,高端时装品牌会在销售季节提前六个月左右发布时装信息,Zara的设计师们则迅速将潮流信息反馈回总部,然后由ZARA专业的时装设计师分类别,款式及风格进行改版设计,重新组合成新的产品；因为经常性的模仿,Zara每年都要支付巨额的赔偿金,但是ZARA却乐此不疲。也因为此,深受消费者的青睐。设计师每年会有四到五万件设计,其中三分之一会投入生产。强大的设计能力是其他服装企业所不能望尘莫及的；Zara的快速反应还表现在完成整个产品周期只需15天,而国内企业大约需要6-9个月；由于采用“少量”“多款”“低价”的战略,Zara的库存量几乎为零,大大提高了资金的流通和使用效率。
Zara品牌是服装企业中的一个奇迹。与国内的服装企业相比,在设计,物流以及营销策略方面,国内企业都是不能望其项背的。
本文以Zara为主线,重点研究Zara的成功的营销策略以及国际化战略的制定和实施,以及对中国服装企业的经验和借鉴。本文分为五部分,第一部分介绍了服装企业发展的时代背景以及研究意义。第二部分是对全球服装产业的产业分析,包括中国以及世界其他地区。第三部分是关于Zara成功的因素分析,包括设计,生产,分销渠道,营销策略以及现代化信息系统的应用。第四部分以Zara的发展路径为基础,运用SWOT模型分析Zara的优势及劣势,机会和威胁。第五部分是对Zara国际化战略的分析和评价。最后一部分,是在Zara国际化战略的基础上,以双枝模型分析了在中国本土化的营销战略,并据此提出Zara发展过程中对中国国内服装企业发展以及国际化的启示。
World-famous apparel brands have gradually found their way into China market since the late 1980s. At present, about 60 high-end fashion brands and more than 500 world famous fashion brands co-exist in China market. In flourishing cities, namely Beijing and Shanghai, high-end fashion market has been occupied by international brands, and they have penetrated into the mid-end and low-end market rapidly. In the mass market, international second and third line brands have entered China market increasingly fast and more. In the recent years, the four international fast fashion retailers, Zara, H&M, C&A and Gap, enter China market in succession. Low price position has posed great pressure on local brands in China. The dilemma China has encountered is the sharp contrast that foreign brands keep coming inward while Chinese brands have difficulty going outward. Among the foreign brands, Zara is a typical case in point.
Zara outweighed Gap in 2006 and is the presently largest fashion retailer in the world fashion market. Rise in 1975, in mere 35 years, Zara has grown from a family shop into the top retailer globally, and from a Spanish brand into a primary brand in the world, Zara will give Chinese apparel enterprises much experience.
Zara is considered as "DELL" and "Swatch" in the fashion industry; Harvard comment has said that it is the most valuable brand worthy of researching; a supervisor of a luxury fashion brand held that Zara is the most "destructive" brand for its quick reaction to new fashion trend.
Zara's success is not occasional:its success lies in that it reverses the tradition in apparel industry, the quick supply system, and foremost, creatively imitation. When other apparel enterprises abandoned vertical production mode, Zara just choose the opposite:from purchasing material, design, distribution to promotion, headquarter highly involved in every part of the process. Unlike other apparel enterprises to outsource the production stage to reduce the production cost, Zara insist on "made in Europe"; in distribution stage, Zara spares a good money to dig an underground tunnel of 20 kilograms around the headquarter in Span so that they can transport the products on the underground conveyer to the logistic center to distribute the products to all the branch stores around the world. As for the individual stores, each shop manager has been equipped with a PDA machine so as to report to headquarter the feedback of the market for reference of next stage production. Besides, Zara has a powerful design team whose given name is "flyers" in the air. This team consists of more than 400 young designers and fashion buyers, and they often appear kinds of fashion show and fly to Spain for designs. What the designers do is to react quickly to the fashion trend instead of predicting it. In this way, they will have a good control of market demand. Normally for high-end fashion brands, they will release the fashion information six months in advance; Zara's designers will seize the opportunities to feedback all fashion information to the "head" of Zara, and then they will category the information, modify the styles and then re-construct new designs. Just because Zara often imitate from the top brands, it will pay a great sum of money in lawsuits on plagiarism. But Zara is too beneficial to stop. Also, it is the reason why Zara can win customers'trust and loyalty. There are more than forty to fifty thousand pieces of designs will be conceived, but only one third will be put into production. Excellent design ability is where other apparel enterprises can compete. Swiftness is the expertise that Zara can win:it can efficiently finish a product circle in only 15 days, comparing with 6-9 months in domestic market in China; with a strategy of "less quantity" "more styles" and "low price", Zara's inventory is almost zero contributing to high circulation speed and utility efficiency.
Zara has made a miracle among the apparel industry in the world. Chinese apparel enterprises can not catch up with Zara's pace in a short term because of Zara's excellent performance in design, logistics and promotion.
This thesis mainly focuses on its successful marketing strategies and implementation of internationalization strategies, and experience & lessons to Chinese apparel companies. There are mainly six parts in the paper, the first part focuses on the background of apparel industry development and the significance of study. In the second chapter, there is an analysis on the global apparel sector, including China and the other areas of the world. The third part focuses on the elements that have contributed to Zara's success, from perspectives of design, production, distribution channels, marketing skills and use of modern information system. In the fourth chapter, SWOT mode is introduced to analyze Zara's strength and weakness, opportunities and threats.In the fifth chapter, it is about the assessment of Zara's internalization strategy. And in the end, combining with Zara's internalization strategy, its localization strategy in China is analyzed and basing on that, Zara's significance to Chinese enterprises is put forward to provide China with some experience.
引文
[1]2010 Annual Report Inditex (Economics and Financial Performance Corporate Performance Social and Environmental Performance)
[2]ANDREW MACFEE, VINCENT DESSAIN, ANDERS SJOMAN. Zara:IT for Fast fashion. Harvard Business School (9-604-081),2007-09-09
[3]http://www.eeff.net/thread-428135-1-1.html
[4]Rachel Tiplady. Zara:Taking the lead in Fast-Fashion, Business Week,4 April 2006
[5]Zara, a Spanish success story, CNN,15 June 2001
[6]高安德.当中国成为消费大国.[J].中国企业家,2008.1
[7]李孝良.3A供应链—决胜于速度之外.[J].哈佛评论,2005,(2)
[8]郎咸平.模式：零售和连锁业战略思维和发展模式.[M].北京：东方出版社,2006
[9]梁建芳,张星,李筱胜.我国服装品牌市场现状及分析.[J].苏州大学学报(工科版),2008年6月：129-131
[10]肖利华Zara的节奏. http://blog.vsharing.com/ZARA_CASE/A554752.html, 2007-4-7
[11]张思.ZARA催化“快时尚”.[J].数字商业时代,2007,(3)：32-34
[12]万方,王恒利.ZARA快时尚的魅与罚.[J].中国市场,2011,(2)：28-29
[13]葛星,汪建斌,赵静.ZARA的低成本.[J].出版参考：新阅读,2011,(3)：30-30
[14]何佳.ZARA:以快“征服”世界.[J].企业改革与管理,2011,(5)：63-65
[15]张一.ZARA:平价奢华风.[J].东方企业家,2011,(5)：63-66
[16]罗歧熟.信息化-ZARA对服装企业的启示.[J].辽宁丝绸,2010,(4)：15-17
[17]吉娜.时尚业的ZARA.[J]市场营销案例,2011,(3)：23-24
[18]齐洁.拉夏贝尔：本土化ZARA尝试.[J].新经济,2011,(2)：46-47
[19]孙静ZARA的快速营销策略及其关键增值点研究.[J].上海纺织科技,2011,38(12)：59-62
[20]胡敏敏.析SPA型服装企业品牌零售模式-以ZARA为例.[J].浙江理工大学学报,2007,(4)：404-410
[21]左兴龙.快速营销：21世纪市场营销新战略.[J].民营视界,2006,(2)：30-31
[22]白玉.平民化的“快时尚”异军突起.[J].上海百货,2010,(11)：19-19
[23]高星.浅析ZARA服装产品的品牌竞争力.[J].山东纺织经济,2010,(8)：27-28
[24]李霜.ZARA公司“大集中”系统的深入研究.[J].管理与财富：学术版,2010(6)：93-94
[25]安树ZARA:演绎供应链的极速传说.[J]石油石化物质采购,2010,(6)：72-73
[26]李尚竹ZARA独特的营销模式的利于弊.[J].世界华商经济年鉴：理论版,2011(7)：68-69
[27]方虹.国际市场营销学.[M].机械工业出版社,2009年1月.
[28]郎咸平.郎咸平说：谁在拯救中国经济(复苏的背后与萧条的亮点).[M].2009年9月1日.
[29]http://doc.mbalib.com/view/ab5dfb4f21587dbcfc37e8f938d20fc9.html
[30]http://www.Zara.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/home/us/en/Zara-us-W2011
[31]http://www.inditex.com/en/
[32]http://industry.yidaba.com/fzfzpg/yxgl/57290.shtml
[33]http://www.eeff.net/thread-428135-1-1.html
[34]http://wenku.baidu.com/view/bc935225a5e9856a561260ab.html
[35]http://www.arting365.com/news/dress/2010-01-26/1264473316d219671.html
[36]http://doc.mbalib.com/view/44064fala9278af712d76294e38189b4.html
[2]ANDREW MACFEE, VINCENT DESSAIN, ANDERS SJOMAN. Zara:IT for Fast fashion. Harvard Business School (9-604-081),2007-09-09
[3]http://www.eeff.net/thread-428135-1-1.html
[4]Rachel Tiplady. Zara:Taking the lead in Fast-Fashion, Business Week,4 April 2006
[5]Zara, a Spanish success story, CNN,15 June 2001
[6]高安德.当中国成为消费大国.[J].中国企业家,2008.1
[7]李孝良.3A供应链—决胜于速度之外.[J].哈佛评论,2005,(2)
[8]郎咸平.模式：零售和连锁业战略思维和发展模式.[M].北京：东方出版社,2006
[9]梁建芳,张星,李筱胜.我国服装品牌市场现状及分析.[J].苏州大学学报(工科版),2008年6月：129-131
[10]肖利华Zara的节奏. http://blog.vsharing.com/ZARA_CASE/A554752.html, 2007-4-7
[11]张思.ZARA催化“快时尚”.[J].数字商业时代,2007,(3)：32-34
[12]万方,王恒利.ZARA快时尚的魅与罚.[J].中国市场,2011,(2)：28-29
[13]葛星,汪建斌,赵静.ZARA的低成本.[J].出版参考：新阅读,2011,(3)：30-30
[14]何佳.ZARA:以快“征服”世界.[J].企业改革与管理,2011,(5)：63-65
[15]张一.ZARA:平价奢华风.[J].东方企业家,2011,(5)：63-66
[16]罗歧熟.信息化-ZARA对服装企业的启示.[J].辽宁丝绸,2010,(4)：15-17
[17]吉娜.时尚业的ZARA.[J]市场营销案例,2011,(3)：23-24
[18]齐洁.拉夏贝尔：本土化ZARA尝试.[J].新经济,2011,(2)：46-47
[19]孙静ZARA的快速营销策略及其关键增值点研究.[J].上海纺织科技,2011,38(12)：59-62
[20]胡敏敏.析SPA型服装企业品牌零售模式-以ZARA为例.[J].浙江理工大学学报,2007,(4)：404-410
[21]左兴龙.快速营销：21世纪市场营销新战略.[J].民营视界,2006,(2)：30-31
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