针织物结构与力学性能及其对服装压的影响
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摘要
近年来,针织面料由于具有良好的弹性和延伸性,己经越来越多地应用于各类紧身、束身以及运动服装中。人体穿着过程中伴随着服装压力的产生,针织服装的压近舒适性已逐渐成为衡量针织物紧身服穿着舒适性的重要指标之一。目前,对于着装接触压力的研究仍需深入,有关接触压力产生的本质以及动静态理论预测模型尚未完善,现有的对接触压迫舒适性的研究多以主观着装实验为主,费时、费力,评价结果容易受环境、评价者的主观态度、心理、生理及经历的诸多影响。因此,如何确立合理的压力舒适性评判指标,并且建立科学的服装压力舒适性评价体系,对于服装舒适性的研究有着非常重要的意义。本论文研究了弹性针织物的基本结构特征、力学性能及服装压力形成的机制、服装压力预测的基本理论和方法,目的是建立弹性针织物性能设计的理论和方法体系,实现弹性针织的合理使用和接触压力的科学预测。主要的工作和贡献如下：
(1)纬编弹性针织物的结构模型建立
针织物的线圈结构是一种复杂的空间曲线,加入弹性丝的针织物线圈结构因此发生了明显的变化,从而导致了针织物的诸多性能。本章对10种非弹性纬编针织物与8种纬编弹性针织物的密度和密度对比系数进行对比分析。结果表明,纬编弹性针织物的密度对比系数明显降低,横密基本保持不变,纵密明显增加,非弹性纬编针织物的平均密度对比系数为0.89,而弹性纬编针织物的平均密度对比系数为0.80。构建了弹性纬编针织物的线圈结构模型,得出了线圈长度与两种纱线直径的函数关系式。通过对8种纬编弹性针织物的线圈长度实测来对所建立的模型进行验证,并与三种常用的Pierce模型、Leaf模型、B样条模型进行比较。结果表明常用的三种模型所计算出的线圈长度与实测值有较大的误差,其平均误差都在10%以上,说明之前大量使用的三种模型并不适用于弹性纬编针织物,而本模型计算出的线圈长度与实测值的平均误差在5%以内,说明本模型所构建的线圈形态与实际的线圈形态具有良好的相符性。
(2)纬编针织物结构、力学性能对服装压的影响
对四种典型的纬编弹性针织面料的横向和纵向进行了低应力状态下的定伸长拉伸测试和定负荷伸长值的测定。测试结果表明,四种典型的弹性纬编针织物的拉伸曲线具有相似的特征,其特征表现为拉伸出现明显的三个阶段,即低强高伸、高强高伸和高强低伸。此外,针织物的组织结构、氨纶含量、织物密度及克重是影响织物弹伸性的重要因素。弹性纱在织物中的弹性贡献率规律为对织物的横向表现为负贡献,其负贡献率与氨纶的含量成反比趋势,但整体影响并不显著,其平均贡献率为-3.52%,而弹性纱对织物的纵向则有显著的影响,其平均弹性贡献率为15.24%,当氨纶的含量低于一定值时,贡献率会呈现快速下降。定伸长负荷测试表明经向负荷越大则纬向负荷就越小,基本呈现出反比的规律,而且纵向的负荷值明显高出横向负荷值。另外,通过织物服装压力测试装置对三种类型纬编弹性针织物的服装压进行了测试。测试结果表明,随着织物伸长率的增加,织物的纵向试样和横向试样的服装压力也逐渐增加。氨纶含量对织物拉伸初期影响显著,随着拉伸变形的增加,氨纶含量的增加对服装压力的影响逐渐降低。此外,织物的纬向试样的服装压力比经向要高,增长速率要快。
(3)经编针织物结构、力学对服装压的影响
本章对不同结构和不同氨纶含量的6种经编弹性针织物的力学性能进行研究。分别对6种经编弹性针织物中氨纶对织物的弹性贡献率进行测试,平均纵向弹性贡献率为14.94%,纵向平均弹性贡献率为28.88%,弹性纱对织物纵向弹性贡献率比横向贡献率更高,说明经编针织物在加入弹性纱线后,对线圈产生压缩,使织物纵密明显增加的特征。拉伸性能测试表明,其拉伸曲线表现出与非弹性纱针织物不同的特征,其曲线与纬编弹性针织物一样具备明显的三个不同阶段。通过对比分析,织物的拉伸性能与织物结构密切相关。纬编弹性针织物与经编弹性针织物的拉伸曲线都具有拉伸初的低强高伸特征,但经编织物的弹性伸长要比纬编弹性织物的伸长要小,而拉伸张力则比纬编所需要的张力大,是氨纶含量明显差异的具体表现。通过织物服装压力测试装置对6种经编弹性针织物进行服装压测试。测试结果表明,在低应力状态下,经编针织物的服装压力随针织物的伸长而逐渐增加。这是因为经编针织物的服装压力主要是由弹性纤维起主导作用和贡献的。通过对纬编针织物和经编针织物的服装压力值的对比分析,纬编针织物具有比经编针织物更小的服装压力值,对纬编针织物而言,弹性纤维的加入与否,只对初始拉伸时的服装压力有一定的影响,随着拉伸伸长率的增加,织物的服装压力最终总体接近。
(4)针织物服装压力的预测
采用有限元分析方法,对针织结构及拉伸行为进行模拟是一种较为前沿的研究方法,由于针织物的结构比较复杂,本研究只对纬平针织物的结构及拉伸行为进行了分析,得出了纬平针织物的线圈结构模型,通过模拟纬平针拉伸行为下的服装压力形成,得出了模拟状态下的服装压力曲线,结果表明模拟曲线与实测曲线具有较好的一致性。
Knitted fabrics play a more and more important role in every kinds of tight or sports garments, because of their good elasticity. Clothing pressure comfort of knitted fabric is one of the important factors for evaluation of wearing comfort. Currently, more study on the nature of contact pressure needs to be done and prediction model hasn't been utterly completed. Evaluation on wearing touch and pressure comfort mainly depends on wearing tests, which takes a lot of time and labor and could easily be affected by environment as well as attitude, psychological and physiological. Therefore, it is very important to have research the evaluation indicator and establish scientific evaluation system of clothing pressure comfort, which will give out significant effort on the comfort research of garments.
This paper studies on the basic structural characteristics of elastic knitted fabric, mechanical properties and formation mechanism of pressure garments, clothing pressure prediction theory and method, aims to establish the elastic properties of the knitted fabric design theory and method system, realize the rational use and scientific prediction of elastic knitting. Following are the main work and contribution.
(1) Weft-elastic knitted fabric structure model. Knitted fabric's loop structure is a complex space curve, so the loop structures with elastic yarn have taken significant changes, resulting in many performances of the knitted fabrics. In this chapter, the density and density contrast coefficients of10kinds of inelastic weft-knitted fabrics and8kinds of weft-elastic knitted fabric are analyzed. Results show that density contrast coefficients of weft-elastic knitted fabric are significantly reduced, the cross density has virtually remained unchanged, the longitudinal density has significantly increased, the average density contrast coefficient of the inelastic weft-knitted fabrics is0.89, while the density contrast coefficient of the elastic weft-knitted fabrics0.80. The loop structure model of elastic weft-knitted fabrics has built, and the functional relationships between loop length and yarn diameter has set up. By verifying the model established based on the measured loop length values of8kinds of weft-elastic knitted fabric, and comparing with the three commonly used model, Pierce model, Leaf model, b-spline model. Results indicate that the loop lengths calculated by the three models has larger errors compared with the measured values, the average errors are more than10%, which means that the three models does not appropriate for elastic weft knitted fabric, and the loop lengths calculated by this model has error less than5%, indicating that the loop form built by this model has good match with the actual loop form.
(2) Weft-knitted fabrics structure, mechanics influence on clothing pressure. The tensile tests at constant elongation and extension tests at constant load of four typical weft-elastic knitted fabrics at a low stress state in the horizontal and vertical direction are carried out in this study. Test results show that the four typical tensile curves of elastic weft-knitted fabrics have similar characteristics, which exhibit three obvious phases, that is, low strength and high elongation, high strength and high elongation and high strength and low elongation. In addition, the organization structure of knitted fabric, content of spandex, fabric density and weight per square meter are important factors affecting the elasticity of fabrics. elastic yarn has negative contribution to the fabric in horizontal direction, the negative contribution rate is inversely proportional with spandex content, and the overall effect is not significant affected, the average contribution rate was3.52%, while elastic yarns have a marked influence on fabric in vertical direction, and the average elastic contribution rate15.24%. When the spandex content is below a certain value, the contribution rate will decline rapidly. Load at specified elongation test has shown that the greater the longitudinal load, the smaller the zonal load, which exhibits inversely proportional law and longitudinal load value is significantly higher than lateral load value. In addition, clothing pressure of three types of elastic weft-knitted fabrics has been tested by fabric garment pressure testing device. Test results show that the vertical and horizontal clothing pressure is gradually increasing with fabric elongation increase. Spandex content tensile has significant impact on fabric in the early stage, and with the tension increased, the impact of spandex content increase on garment pressure gradually reduced. In addition, the longitudinal clothing pressure is higher than zonal clothing pressure and the higher growth rate as well.
(3) Warp-knitted fabrics structure, mechanical influence on clothing pressure. This chapter study on the mechanical property of6kinds of elastic warp knitted fabric with different structures and spandex content. The elasticity contribution rate of spandex in6kinds of warp-knitted elastic knitted fabric is tested respectively. The average lateral elastic contribution rate is14.94%, while the average longitudinal elastic contribution rate is28.88%), indicating that the longitudinal elastic contribution rate given to fabric by elastic yarn is higher than the lateral elastic contribution rate. It shows that after adding the elastic yarn in warp knitted fabrics, the loop is compressed, so that the vertical fabric density has significant increase. Tensile properties testing indicates that its tensile curve showing non-elastic yarns and knitted fabric characteristics of different, the curve as with weft-elastic knitted fabrics have obvious three different stages. By comparison analysis, fabric stretch performance and fabric structure is closely related, both the stretch curve of elastic weft-knitted fabric and elastic warp-knitted fabric have low strength high stretch features at early stage, but warp-knitted fabric has smaller elastic elongation and larger tensile strength than weft-knitted fabric, which is the specific performance of obvious ammonia fiber content differences. Clothing pressure of6types of elastic weft-knitted fabrics have been tested by fabric garment pressure testing device, test results show that clothing pressure of warp-knitted fabric increase with the elongation of knitted fabric at low stress state. This is because the elastic fibers play a leading role and contribution in clothing pressure of warp knitted fabric. Through comparative analysis of clothing pressure value of the weft-knitted fabric and warp knitted fabrics, weft-knitted fabrics have smaller clothing pressure value than warp knitted fabrics. For weft-knitted fabrics, elastic fibers only have a certain impact on clothing pressure at the initial stretch stage, with tensile elongation increasing; the overall fabric clothing pressure is quite similar finally.
(4) Forecast of knitted fabrics clothing pressure. Using the finite element analysis method on the simulation of knitting structure and tensile behavior is very advanced. Since knitted fabric structure is very complex, this study only focused on weft plain fabric structure and its tensile behavior, the loop structure model of weft plain fabric is built. By simulating the clothing pressure formation under the weft plain tension, the clothing pressure curve at simulated state is obtained, showing simulating curves have good consistency with measured curves.
(1)纬编弹性针织物的结构模型建立
针织物的线圈结构是一种复杂的空间曲线,加入弹性丝的针织物线圈结构因此发生了明显的变化,从而导致了针织物的诸多性能。本章对10种非弹性纬编针织物与8种纬编弹性针织物的密度和密度对比系数进行对比分析。结果表明,纬编弹性针织物的密度对比系数明显降低,横密基本保持不变,纵密明显增加,非弹性纬编针织物的平均密度对比系数为0.89,而弹性纬编针织物的平均密度对比系数为0.80。构建了弹性纬编针织物的线圈结构模型,得出了线圈长度与两种纱线直径的函数关系式。通过对8种纬编弹性针织物的线圈长度实测来对所建立的模型进行验证,并与三种常用的Pierce模型、Leaf模型、B样条模型进行比较。结果表明常用的三种模型所计算出的线圈长度与实测值有较大的误差,其平均误差都在10%以上,说明之前大量使用的三种模型并不适用于弹性纬编针织物,而本模型计算出的线圈长度与实测值的平均误差在5%以内,说明本模型所构建的线圈形态与实际的线圈形态具有良好的相符性。
(2)纬编针织物结构、力学性能对服装压的影响
对四种典型的纬编弹性针织面料的横向和纵向进行了低应力状态下的定伸长拉伸测试和定负荷伸长值的测定。测试结果表明,四种典型的弹性纬编针织物的拉伸曲线具有相似的特征,其特征表现为拉伸出现明显的三个阶段,即低强高伸、高强高伸和高强低伸。此外,针织物的组织结构、氨纶含量、织物密度及克重是影响织物弹伸性的重要因素。弹性纱在织物中的弹性贡献率规律为对织物的横向表现为负贡献,其负贡献率与氨纶的含量成反比趋势,但整体影响并不显著,其平均贡献率为-3.52%,而弹性纱对织物的纵向则有显著的影响,其平均弹性贡献率为15.24%,当氨纶的含量低于一定值时,贡献率会呈现快速下降。定伸长负荷测试表明经向负荷越大则纬向负荷就越小,基本呈现出反比的规律,而且纵向的负荷值明显高出横向负荷值。另外,通过织物服装压力测试装置对三种类型纬编弹性针织物的服装压进行了测试。测试结果表明,随着织物伸长率的增加,织物的纵向试样和横向试样的服装压力也逐渐增加。氨纶含量对织物拉伸初期影响显著,随着拉伸变形的增加,氨纶含量的增加对服装压力的影响逐渐降低。此外,织物的纬向试样的服装压力比经向要高,增长速率要快。
(3)经编针织物结构、力学对服装压的影响
本章对不同结构和不同氨纶含量的6种经编弹性针织物的力学性能进行研究。分别对6种经编弹性针织物中氨纶对织物的弹性贡献率进行测试,平均纵向弹性贡献率为14.94%,纵向平均弹性贡献率为28.88%,弹性纱对织物纵向弹性贡献率比横向贡献率更高,说明经编针织物在加入弹性纱线后,对线圈产生压缩,使织物纵密明显增加的特征。拉伸性能测试表明,其拉伸曲线表现出与非弹性纱针织物不同的特征,其曲线与纬编弹性针织物一样具备明显的三个不同阶段。通过对比分析,织物的拉伸性能与织物结构密切相关。纬编弹性针织物与经编弹性针织物的拉伸曲线都具有拉伸初的低强高伸特征,但经编织物的弹性伸长要比纬编弹性织物的伸长要小,而拉伸张力则比纬编所需要的张力大,是氨纶含量明显差异的具体表现。通过织物服装压力测试装置对6种经编弹性针织物进行服装压测试。测试结果表明,在低应力状态下,经编针织物的服装压力随针织物的伸长而逐渐增加。这是因为经编针织物的服装压力主要是由弹性纤维起主导作用和贡献的。通过对纬编针织物和经编针织物的服装压力值的对比分析,纬编针织物具有比经编针织物更小的服装压力值,对纬编针织物而言,弹性纤维的加入与否,只对初始拉伸时的服装压力有一定的影响,随着拉伸伸长率的增加,织物的服装压力最终总体接近。
(4)针织物服装压力的预测
采用有限元分析方法,对针织结构及拉伸行为进行模拟是一种较为前沿的研究方法,由于针织物的结构比较复杂,本研究只对纬平针织物的结构及拉伸行为进行了分析,得出了纬平针织物的线圈结构模型,通过模拟纬平针拉伸行为下的服装压力形成,得出了模拟状态下的服装压力曲线,结果表明模拟曲线与实测曲线具有较好的一致性。
Knitted fabrics play a more and more important role in every kinds of tight or sports garments, because of their good elasticity. Clothing pressure comfort of knitted fabric is one of the important factors for evaluation of wearing comfort. Currently, more study on the nature of contact pressure needs to be done and prediction model hasn't been utterly completed. Evaluation on wearing touch and pressure comfort mainly depends on wearing tests, which takes a lot of time and labor and could easily be affected by environment as well as attitude, psychological and physiological. Therefore, it is very important to have research the evaluation indicator and establish scientific evaluation system of clothing pressure comfort, which will give out significant effort on the comfort research of garments.
This paper studies on the basic structural characteristics of elastic knitted fabric, mechanical properties and formation mechanism of pressure garments, clothing pressure prediction theory and method, aims to establish the elastic properties of the knitted fabric design theory and method system, realize the rational use and scientific prediction of elastic knitting. Following are the main work and contribution.
(1) Weft-elastic knitted fabric structure model. Knitted fabric's loop structure is a complex space curve, so the loop structures with elastic yarn have taken significant changes, resulting in many performances of the knitted fabrics. In this chapter, the density and density contrast coefficients of10kinds of inelastic weft-knitted fabrics and8kinds of weft-elastic knitted fabric are analyzed. Results show that density contrast coefficients of weft-elastic knitted fabric are significantly reduced, the cross density has virtually remained unchanged, the longitudinal density has significantly increased, the average density contrast coefficient of the inelastic weft-knitted fabrics is0.89, while the density contrast coefficient of the elastic weft-knitted fabrics0.80. The loop structure model of elastic weft-knitted fabrics has built, and the functional relationships between loop length and yarn diameter has set up. By verifying the model established based on the measured loop length values of8kinds of weft-elastic knitted fabric, and comparing with the three commonly used model, Pierce model, Leaf model, b-spline model. Results indicate that the loop lengths calculated by the three models has larger errors compared with the measured values, the average errors are more than10%, which means that the three models does not appropriate for elastic weft knitted fabric, and the loop lengths calculated by this model has error less than5%, indicating that the loop form built by this model has good match with the actual loop form.
(2) Weft-knitted fabrics structure, mechanics influence on clothing pressure. The tensile tests at constant elongation and extension tests at constant load of four typical weft-elastic knitted fabrics at a low stress state in the horizontal and vertical direction are carried out in this study. Test results show that the four typical tensile curves of elastic weft-knitted fabrics have similar characteristics, which exhibit three obvious phases, that is, low strength and high elongation, high strength and high elongation and high strength and low elongation. In addition, the organization structure of knitted fabric, content of spandex, fabric density and weight per square meter are important factors affecting the elasticity of fabrics. elastic yarn has negative contribution to the fabric in horizontal direction, the negative contribution rate is inversely proportional with spandex content, and the overall effect is not significant affected, the average contribution rate was3.52%, while elastic yarns have a marked influence on fabric in vertical direction, and the average elastic contribution rate15.24%. When the spandex content is below a certain value, the contribution rate will decline rapidly. Load at specified elongation test has shown that the greater the longitudinal load, the smaller the zonal load, which exhibits inversely proportional law and longitudinal load value is significantly higher than lateral load value. In addition, clothing pressure of three types of elastic weft-knitted fabrics has been tested by fabric garment pressure testing device. Test results show that the vertical and horizontal clothing pressure is gradually increasing with fabric elongation increase. Spandex content tensile has significant impact on fabric in the early stage, and with the tension increased, the impact of spandex content increase on garment pressure gradually reduced. In addition, the longitudinal clothing pressure is higher than zonal clothing pressure and the higher growth rate as well.
(3) Warp-knitted fabrics structure, mechanical influence on clothing pressure. This chapter study on the mechanical property of6kinds of elastic warp knitted fabric with different structures and spandex content. The elasticity contribution rate of spandex in6kinds of warp-knitted elastic knitted fabric is tested respectively. The average lateral elastic contribution rate is14.94%, while the average longitudinal elastic contribution rate is28.88%), indicating that the longitudinal elastic contribution rate given to fabric by elastic yarn is higher than the lateral elastic contribution rate. It shows that after adding the elastic yarn in warp knitted fabrics, the loop is compressed, so that the vertical fabric density has significant increase. Tensile properties testing indicates that its tensile curve showing non-elastic yarns and knitted fabric characteristics of different, the curve as with weft-elastic knitted fabrics have obvious three different stages. By comparison analysis, fabric stretch performance and fabric structure is closely related, both the stretch curve of elastic weft-knitted fabric and elastic warp-knitted fabric have low strength high stretch features at early stage, but warp-knitted fabric has smaller elastic elongation and larger tensile strength than weft-knitted fabric, which is the specific performance of obvious ammonia fiber content differences. Clothing pressure of6types of elastic weft-knitted fabrics have been tested by fabric garment pressure testing device, test results show that clothing pressure of warp-knitted fabric increase with the elongation of knitted fabric at low stress state. This is because the elastic fibers play a leading role and contribution in clothing pressure of warp knitted fabric. Through comparative analysis of clothing pressure value of the weft-knitted fabric and warp knitted fabrics, weft-knitted fabrics have smaller clothing pressure value than warp knitted fabrics. For weft-knitted fabrics, elastic fibers only have a certain impact on clothing pressure at the initial stretch stage, with tensile elongation increasing; the overall fabric clothing pressure is quite similar finally.
(4) Forecast of knitted fabrics clothing pressure. Using the finite element analysis method on the simulation of knitting structure and tensile behavior is very advanced. Since knitted fabric structure is very complex, this study only focused on weft plain fabric structure and its tensile behavior, the loop structure model of weft plain fabric is built. By simulating the clothing pressure formation under the weft plain tension, the clothing pressure curve at simulated state is obtained, showing simulating curves have good consistency with measured curves.
引文
[l]陈东生.服装卫生学[M].北京：中国纺织出版社,2000：64.
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