PTT纤维针织面料的研制
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摘要
PTT纤维是一种引人注目的新型聚酯纤维,具有较好的延伸性、优良的弹性回复性、良好手感、易染色、抗污性佳等独特优点,具有广阔的纺织应用前景。由于PTT独特的分子结构,比常规涤纶更适于开发手感柔软、弹性优良的针织面料,以满足人们对于服装舒适弹性的需要。
本文测试分析了PTT短纤维的拉伸、应力松弛性能,PTT长丝纱与PTT/PET复合长丝纱的强伸、回弹性能、残余扭矩和摩擦系数。根据纤维性能,与工厂联合探索PTT针织物的研制,优化织造、染整工艺,开发出了PTT双罗纹、纬平针、集圈、衬垫纬编针织面料。
将组织结构相近的PTT针织物与PET针织物进行性能测试和对比分析。PTT织物的断裂伸长率较大,耐磨性较好,定伸长条件下的弹性回复率较高,悬垂性较好,抗起毛起球性能较好;PET织物的断裂强力较高,顶破强力较高,折痕回复性能较好;二者的光泽度较高,色牢度较好,透通性较差,无明显差异。不同原料、不同组织结构PTT针织物的力学性能、外观保持性能、舒适性能有所不同。
PTT (polytrimethylene terephthalate) fiber as one of new noticeable polyester fibers which has good extensibility, high elastic resilience, soft handle, good dyeability and resistance to soiling, is widely used as new textile material with broad prospect. Due to the unique molecular structure of PTT, it is more appropriate for developing knitting fabrics with excellent handle and elasticity than PET to meet the demand of people.
Tensile and stress relaxation of PTT staple fibres and tensile, elastic recovery, residual torque and friction coefficient of PTT and PTT/PET multifilament yarns were tested and analyzed. According to the propertyes of materials, optimized knitting, dyeing and finishing process were chosen, and interlock rib, weft plain, tuck stitch and laid in stitch PTT fabrics were developed with the help of the factories.
The properties of PTT knitting fabrics were tested and compared with PET knitting fabrics of the similar structural parameters. PTT knitting fabric has higher breaking elongation, better wear-resistance, higher elastic recovery percentage under the certain elongation, better drapability and anti-pilling; PET knitting fabric has higher breaking strength and bursting strength and better crease recovery; Both of them have good glossiness and color fastness but poor permeability. The properties of mechanics, appearance and comfort of PTT knitting fabrics which have different material or structure are different.
本文测试分析了PTT短纤维的拉伸、应力松弛性能,PTT长丝纱与PTT/PET复合长丝纱的强伸、回弹性能、残余扭矩和摩擦系数。根据纤维性能,与工厂联合探索PTT针织物的研制,优化织造、染整工艺,开发出了PTT双罗纹、纬平针、集圈、衬垫纬编针织面料。
将组织结构相近的PTT针织物与PET针织物进行性能测试和对比分析。PTT织物的断裂伸长率较大,耐磨性较好,定伸长条件下的弹性回复率较高,悬垂性较好,抗起毛起球性能较好;PET织物的断裂强力较高,顶破强力较高,折痕回复性能较好;二者的光泽度较高,色牢度较好,透通性较差,无明显差异。不同原料、不同组织结构PTT针织物的力学性能、外观保持性能、舒适性能有所不同。
PTT (polytrimethylene terephthalate) fiber as one of new noticeable polyester fibers which has good extensibility, high elastic resilience, soft handle, good dyeability and resistance to soiling, is widely used as new textile material with broad prospect. Due to the unique molecular structure of PTT, it is more appropriate for developing knitting fabrics with excellent handle and elasticity than PET to meet the demand of people.
Tensile and stress relaxation of PTT staple fibres and tensile, elastic recovery, residual torque and friction coefficient of PTT and PTT/PET multifilament yarns were tested and analyzed. According to the propertyes of materials, optimized knitting, dyeing and finishing process were chosen, and interlock rib, weft plain, tuck stitch and laid in stitch PTT fabrics were developed with the help of the factories.
The properties of PTT knitting fabrics were tested and compared with PET knitting fabrics of the similar structural parameters. PTT knitting fabric has higher breaking elongation, better wear-resistance, higher elastic recovery percentage under the certain elongation, better drapability and anti-pilling; PET knitting fabric has higher breaking strength and bursting strength and better crease recovery; Both of them have good glossiness and color fastness but poor permeability. The properties of mechanics, appearance and comfort of PTT knitting fabrics which have different material or structure are different.
引文
[1] Hoe, H.Corterra. A New Polyester Fibre.Textiles Magazine, 1998,27(1): 12-14.
[2] Traub H L, Hirt P, Herlinger H. Mechanical Properties of Fibers Made of Polytrimethylene Terephalate.Chemical Fibers International, 1995,45 (4):110-111.
[3] Judith Harkham Semas. Shell Chemical Launches Corterra Polymer(PTT) Manufacturing. Internationnal Fiber Journal, 1997(2):12-14
[4] Big Plans for Shell Polymer.Textile Month, 1997(2):9.
[5] 杨宝武,钱以宏,刘玉莉.21 世纪新型聚酯材料 PTT 的性能与应用.当代石油石化,2001(8):26-29.
[6] 刘小云.聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯的合成及结构性能研究.东华大学硕士学位论文,2002.
[7] http://www.sorona.dupont.com.
[8] 陈国康.聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯的合成,结晶特性和成形研究.中国纺织大学博士学位论文,1999.
[9] 李宏伟.关于聚对苯二甲酸丙二酯高速熔融纺丝纤维结构与性能的研究.北京化工大学硕士学位论文,2002.
[10] 陈克权. PTT 纤维的结构与性能.合成纤维工业,2001(6):37-40.
[11] Dandurand S P, Perez S, Revol J F, et al. The Crystal Structure of Poly (tetra-methylene terephalate) by X-ray and Electron Diffraction. Polymer, 1979,20(4):419-426.
[12] Jakeways R, Ward I M, Wilding M A, et al. Crystal Deformation in Aromatic Polyesters. Journal of Polymer Science: Polymer Physics Edition, 1975 (13):799-813.
[13] 刘玉莉.新型纺织用 PTT 纤维的特性及其染色工艺探讨.当代石油石化,2002(2): 39-41.
[14] 马新敏,于伟东.弹性聚酯纤维的弹性机制与应用研究.纺织导报,2003(6): 88-92.
[15] 陈荣圻.纺织纤维的今天与明天.上海染料,2002,30(4):16-21.
[16] 曹丽敏,赵俐.PTT 针织物的开发优势及前景.国际纺织导报,2004(1):52-55.
[17] 罗益锋.世界环保型化纤的新进展.纺织导报,2003(6):82-87
[18] Kosa 生产 Corterra PTT 纤维. Chemical Fiber International, 2000(1):27.
[19] Start-up Phase Begins at PTT Poly Canada Plant in Montreal. International Fiber Journal,2004(1):24.
[20] 旭化成的 PTT 纤维将增至 2000t/a.高科技纤维与应用,2001,26(5):43.
[21] S.Deib, E. Seidel. Continous PTT Process. Chemical Fiber International, 2003(2):26-29.
[22] 日本化工日报, 2001,8.
[23] 日本海外速报, 2001,12.
[24] Ward.I.M, Wilding.M.A, Brody.H. The Mechanical Properties and Structure of Poly(m-methylene terephthalate) Fibers. J.Polym. Sci., Phys.Ed., 1976(14):263-274.
[25] M.Buscemi, K.Dangayach, K.Kiibler, et al. Challenges and opportunites for Corterra PTT in textile fibers. Chemical Fibers International, 2002, 52(2):34-35.
[26] H.S.Brown, H.H.Chuah. Texturing of textile filament yarns based on polytrimethylene terephthalate. Chemical Fibers International, 1997, 47(1):72-74.
[27] Ma Moerman, Gary Hess.Corterra Polymers Value Proposition in Textile Apparel Application. www.shellchemicals.com.
[28] Yiqi Yang, Shiqi Li, Houston Brown, et al. Dyeing Behavior of 100% Poly (trimethylene terephthalate) (PTT) Textiles. Chemist and Colorist& American Dyestuff Repor, 1999(3):50-54.
[29] 刘玉莉译.100%PTT 织物的染色特性.国外纺织技术,2001(3):29-34.
[30] 刘昌龄译.100%聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯(PTT)纺织品的染色性能.印染译丛,2001(5):60-66.
[31] PTT 纤维的染色性.加工技术(日),2000(10):15-20.
[32] 何中琴译.PTT 纤维的染色性能.印染译丛,2001(5):67-72.
[33] PTT/棉混纺织物的染色.加工技术(日),2002(3):8-12.
[34] 林诗钦译.新聚酯(PTT)/棉混纺物的染色.上海染料,2002,30(4):43-45.
[35] Ch.Hwo, H.Brown, P.Casey, et al. Opportunites of Corterra PTT fibers in textiles. Chemical Fibers International, 2000,50(2):53-56.
[36] 袁力强译.Corterra PTT 纤维在纺织中的应用前景.国外纺织技术,2000(9): 16-20.
[37] 林玲.PTT 短纤维可纺性研究及产品开发.东华大学硕士学位论文,2003.
[38] 蔡平平.PTT 在针织上的应用及性能研究.东华大学硕士学位论文,2003.
[39] 曹利敏.PTT 纤维圆纬机产品的开发及性能研究.东华大学硕士学位论文,2004.
[40] 李慧.PTT 产品的弹性开发研究.东华大学硕士学位论文,2004.
[41] 殷苏晨.PTT 梭织物的开发技术研究.东华大学硕士学位论文,2005.
[42] 曹秋玲.PTT/毛精纺面料的研制与性能研究.东华大学硕士学位论文,2006.
[43] 杨佳庆,顾利霞.PTT 纤维的发展及其性能和应用.纺织导报,1998(3):13-14.
[44] 廖镜华.新型聚酯纤维 PTT.广西化纤通讯,1999(2):2-6.
[45] 杨佳庆,顾利霞.聚酯新品种 PTT.产业用纺织品,1998(10):27-29.
[46] 中国纺织总会科技发展部标准处.纺织品标准汇编.北京:中国标准出版社,1997.
[47] 李作攀,储才元.非织造布力学性能的模拟及其应用探讨.中国纺织大学学报, 1998,24(2):1-4.
[48] 于伟东,储才元.纺织物理.上海:东华大学出版社,2002,P81.
[49] 王善元.变形纱.上海:上海科学技术出版社,1992:157-159.
[50] 王府梅,李京歌,谢璇妍.PTT 等弹性纤维的弹性回复性能比较.东华大学学报,2004(3):90-92.
[51] 余序芬,鲍燕萍,吴兆平.纺织材料实验技术.北京:中国纺织出版社,2004: 179-180.
[52] 余序芬,鲍燕萍,吴兆平.纺织材料实验技术.北京:中国纺织出版社,2004:170-175.
[53] 陈振洲,郁振琴.氨纶的弹性机理及其在纬编中的应用.上海纺织科技,1998,26(3):38-40.
[54] 许吕裕,龙海如.针织工艺与设备.北京:中国纺织出版社,1999:31-55.
[55] Dyeing Behavior of 100% PTT textiles from Corterra Polymers, www. corterra.com.
[56] 罗抚英,徐冉丹,唐人成.新型聚酯 PTT 纤维的染色.国外丝绸,2002(5):23-34.
[57] 刘越,李宪科.PTT 纤维的发展及其染色加工探讨.合成技术及应用,2003,18 (2):30-33.
[58] 郁崇文,汪军,王新厚.工程参数的最优化设计.上海:东华大学出版社,2003: 238-242.
[59] 姚穆,周锦芳,黄淑珍等.纺织材料学(第二版).北京:中国纺织出版社,2000: 596.
[60] Daniel Gintis, Edward J. Mead. The mechanism of Pilling. Textile. Res. J.1959(7):578-585.
[61] 张建春.Tencel 纤维粘弹塑性的模型.西北纺织工学院学报,1999,52(4): 399-402.
[2] Traub H L, Hirt P, Herlinger H. Mechanical Properties of Fibers Made of Polytrimethylene Terephalate.Chemical Fibers International, 1995,45 (4):110-111.
[3] Judith Harkham Semas. Shell Chemical Launches Corterra Polymer(PTT) Manufacturing. Internationnal Fiber Journal, 1997(2):12-14
[4] Big Plans for Shell Polymer.Textile Month, 1997(2):9.
[5] 杨宝武,钱以宏,刘玉莉.21 世纪新型聚酯材料 PTT 的性能与应用.当代石油石化,2001(8):26-29.
[6] 刘小云.聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯的合成及结构性能研究.东华大学硕士学位论文,2002.
[7] http://www.sorona.dupont.com.
[8] 陈国康.聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯的合成,结晶特性和成形研究.中国纺织大学博士学位论文,1999.
[9] 李宏伟.关于聚对苯二甲酸丙二酯高速熔融纺丝纤维结构与性能的研究.北京化工大学硕士学位论文,2002.
[10] 陈克权. PTT 纤维的结构与性能.合成纤维工业,2001(6):37-40.
[11] Dandurand S P, Perez S, Revol J F, et al. The Crystal Structure of Poly (tetra-methylene terephalate) by X-ray and Electron Diffraction. Polymer, 1979,20(4):419-426.
[12] Jakeways R, Ward I M, Wilding M A, et al. Crystal Deformation in Aromatic Polyesters. Journal of Polymer Science: Polymer Physics Edition, 1975 (13):799-813.
[13] 刘玉莉.新型纺织用 PTT 纤维的特性及其染色工艺探讨.当代石油石化,2002(2): 39-41.
[14] 马新敏,于伟东.弹性聚酯纤维的弹性机制与应用研究.纺织导报,2003(6): 88-92.
[15] 陈荣圻.纺织纤维的今天与明天.上海染料,2002,30(4):16-21.
[16] 曹丽敏,赵俐.PTT 针织物的开发优势及前景.国际纺织导报,2004(1):52-55.
[17] 罗益锋.世界环保型化纤的新进展.纺织导报,2003(6):82-87
[18] Kosa 生产 Corterra PTT 纤维. Chemical Fiber International, 2000(1):27.
[19] Start-up Phase Begins at PTT Poly Canada Plant in Montreal. International Fiber Journal,2004(1):24.
[20] 旭化成的 PTT 纤维将增至 2000t/a.高科技纤维与应用,2001,26(5):43.
[21] S.Deib, E. Seidel. Continous PTT Process. Chemical Fiber International, 2003(2):26-29.
[22] 日本化工日报, 2001,8.
[23] 日本海外速报, 2001,12.
[24] Ward.I.M, Wilding.M.A, Brody.H. The Mechanical Properties and Structure of Poly(m-methylene terephthalate) Fibers. J.Polym. Sci., Phys.Ed., 1976(14):263-274.
[25] M.Buscemi, K.Dangayach, K.Kiibler, et al. Challenges and opportunites for Corterra PTT in textile fibers. Chemical Fibers International, 2002, 52(2):34-35.
[26] H.S.Brown, H.H.Chuah. Texturing of textile filament yarns based on polytrimethylene terephthalate. Chemical Fibers International, 1997, 47(1):72-74.
[27] Ma Moerman, Gary Hess.Corterra Polymers Value Proposition in Textile Apparel Application. www.shellchemicals.com.
[28] Yiqi Yang, Shiqi Li, Houston Brown, et al. Dyeing Behavior of 100% Poly (trimethylene terephthalate) (PTT) Textiles. Chemist and Colorist& American Dyestuff Repor, 1999(3):50-54.
[29] 刘玉莉译.100%PTT 织物的染色特性.国外纺织技术,2001(3):29-34.
[30] 刘昌龄译.100%聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯(PTT)纺织品的染色性能.印染译丛,2001(5):60-66.
[31] PTT 纤维的染色性.加工技术(日),2000(10):15-20.
[32] 何中琴译.PTT 纤维的染色性能.印染译丛,2001(5):67-72.
[33] PTT/棉混纺织物的染色.加工技术(日),2002(3):8-12.
[34] 林诗钦译.新聚酯(PTT)/棉混纺物的染色.上海染料,2002,30(4):43-45.
[35] Ch.Hwo, H.Brown, P.Casey, et al. Opportunites of Corterra PTT fibers in textiles. Chemical Fibers International, 2000,50(2):53-56.
[36] 袁力强译.Corterra PTT 纤维在纺织中的应用前景.国外纺织技术,2000(9): 16-20.
[37] 林玲.PTT 短纤维可纺性研究及产品开发.东华大学硕士学位论文,2003.
[38] 蔡平平.PTT 在针织上的应用及性能研究.东华大学硕士学位论文,2003.
[39] 曹利敏.PTT 纤维圆纬机产品的开发及性能研究.东华大学硕士学位论文,2004.
[40] 李慧.PTT 产品的弹性开发研究.东华大学硕士学位论文,2004.
[41] 殷苏晨.PTT 梭织物的开发技术研究.东华大学硕士学位论文,2005.
[42] 曹秋玲.PTT/毛精纺面料的研制与性能研究.东华大学硕士学位论文,2006.
[43] 杨佳庆,顾利霞.PTT 纤维的发展及其性能和应用.纺织导报,1998(3):13-14.
[44] 廖镜华.新型聚酯纤维 PTT.广西化纤通讯,1999(2):2-6.
[45] 杨佳庆,顾利霞.聚酯新品种 PTT.产业用纺织品,1998(10):27-29.
[46] 中国纺织总会科技发展部标准处.纺织品标准汇编.北京:中国标准出版社,1997.
[47] 李作攀,储才元.非织造布力学性能的模拟及其应用探讨.中国纺织大学学报, 1998,24(2):1-4.
[48] 于伟东,储才元.纺织物理.上海:东华大学出版社,2002,P81.
[49] 王善元.变形纱.上海:上海科学技术出版社,1992:157-159.
[50] 王府梅,李京歌,谢璇妍.PTT 等弹性纤维的弹性回复性能比较.东华大学学报,2004(3):90-92.
[51] 余序芬,鲍燕萍,吴兆平.纺织材料实验技术.北京:中国纺织出版社,2004: 179-180.
[52] 余序芬,鲍燕萍,吴兆平.纺织材料实验技术.北京:中国纺织出版社,2004:170-175.
[53] 陈振洲,郁振琴.氨纶的弹性机理及其在纬编中的应用.上海纺织科技,1998,26(3):38-40.
[54] 许吕裕,龙海如.针织工艺与设备.北京:中国纺织出版社,1999:31-55.
[55] Dyeing Behavior of 100% PTT textiles from Corterra Polymers, www. corterra.com.
[56] 罗抚英,徐冉丹,唐人成.新型聚酯 PTT 纤维的染色.国外丝绸,2002(5):23-34.
[57] 刘越,李宪科.PTT 纤维的发展及其染色加工探讨.合成技术及应用,2003,18 (2):30-33.
[58] 郁崇文,汪军,王新厚.工程参数的最优化设计.上海:东华大学出版社,2003: 238-242.
[59] 姚穆,周锦芳,黄淑珍等.纺织材料学(第二版).北京:中国纺织出版社,2000: 596.
[60] Daniel Gintis, Edward J. Mead. The mechanism of Pilling. Textile. Res. J.1959(7):578-585.
[61] 张建春.Tencel 纤维粘弹塑性的模型.西北纺织工学院学报,1999,52(4): 399-402.