Lucool涤纶/氨纶针织物性能研究
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摘要
Lucool涤纶/氨纶针织物是一种新型吸湿排汗弹性面料,将弹性性能和吸湿快干性能良好的结合在一起,本文对六种不同参数的Lucool涤纶/氨纶针织物进行综合研究。首先,将Lucool涤纶长丝与氨纶以全添纱方式编织成六种不同参数的纬平针织物,并测试织物的力学性能,研究氨纶含量、线圈长度等对织物力学性能的影响。其次,研究了氨纶添纱针织物的尺寸性能,探讨线圈长度与织物密度、平方米克重的关系以及线圈形态系数和紧密系数的关系。通过测试织物的热湿舒适性能,研究了氨纶含量、线圈长度等对织物热湿舒适性能的影响,同时探讨了织物在受拉伸时,线圈形状、大小的变化对织物性能的影响,以及不同拉伸率对织物透气性和透湿性能的影响关系。最后,通过研究织物的延弹性性能,建立四元件模型,并验证四元件模型与织物蠕变过程的拟合程度,研究了氨纶含量、加压时间、反复拉伸次数和加压大小等因素对织物拉伸变形率的影响,测试Lucool涤纶/氨纶针织物的弹性疲劳性能,发现织物的弹性抗疲劳性能优异。
Lucool/spadex plated plain knitted fabrics is a new type of fabrics, which has excellent properties of moisture transferable, fast drying and elasticity. This paper integrated studied six kinds of Lucool/spadex plated plain knitted fabrics which have different parameter. First of all, Lucool/spadex plated plain knitted fabrics were knitted in circle knitting machines, and mechanical properties of fabrics were tested, the results show that the mechanical properties are affected by spandex content and stitch length. Secondly, the dimensional property of fabrics was studied, and some dimensional parameters of knitted fabrics were tested. Regression analysis found that the fabric density and fabric weight linearly decreased with increasing of stitch length. Also, the relationship between loop pattern coefficient and tightness coefficient was researched. Furthermore, thermal and moisture comfortable performance of fabrics were tested, Analysis found that performance of thermal and moisture is affected by spandex content and stitch length. Fabric properties changed with drawing of fabrics. By means of regression analysis found that the relationship between wet permeability and draw ratio is linearly related. Finally, fabric elastic properties were researched, and mathematic model was established, and the fitting degree of the model and creep process of fabric which is higher was tested and verified. By analysis found that the elastic properties are affected by spandex content, drawing time, and repeatedly drawing number, tension size, and so on. Also the fatigue property of fabric was tested, and the result shows that the fatigue property of Lucool/spadex plated plain knitted fabrics is excellent.
Lucool/spadex plated plain knitted fabrics is a new type of fabrics, which has excellent properties of moisture transferable, fast drying and elasticity. This paper integrated studied six kinds of Lucool/spadex plated plain knitted fabrics which have different parameter. First of all, Lucool/spadex plated plain knitted fabrics were knitted in circle knitting machines, and mechanical properties of fabrics were tested, the results show that the mechanical properties are affected by spandex content and stitch length. Secondly, the dimensional property of fabrics was studied, and some dimensional parameters of knitted fabrics were tested. Regression analysis found that the fabric density and fabric weight linearly decreased with increasing of stitch length. Also, the relationship between loop pattern coefficient and tightness coefficient was researched. Furthermore, thermal and moisture comfortable performance of fabrics were tested, Analysis found that performance of thermal and moisture is affected by spandex content and stitch length. Fabric properties changed with drawing of fabrics. By means of regression analysis found that the relationship between wet permeability and draw ratio is linearly related. Finally, fabric elastic properties were researched, and mathematic model was established, and the fitting degree of the model and creep process of fabric which is higher was tested and verified. By analysis found that the elastic properties are affected by spandex content, drawing time, and repeatedly drawing number, tension size, and so on. Also the fatigue property of fabric was tested, and the result shows that the fatigue property of Lucool/spadex plated plain knitted fabrics is excellent.
引文
[1]郭朝红,李黎.纺织品吸湿排汗性能测试方法的研究[J].检验检疫科学,2005,15(4)：15-17.
[2]陈天文.织物的热湿传递研究与模拟模型[D].北京服装学院.2005
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[5]单丽娟,李亚滨,刘建华.吸湿排汗聚酯纤维研究进展[J].印染助剂,2006,23(6)：5-8.
[6]刘茜.吸湿排汗纤维的开发及应用[J].广西纺织科技,2003,32(3)：38-41.
[7]孙锋.氨纶弹力针织面料热湿舒适性的研究[J].针织工业,2002(3)：42-44.
[8]吴基作,陈益松.纺织品热湿传递性测试装置[J].印染,2010(4)：42-44.
[9]任惠,吴雄英,王善元.吸湿排汗涤纶织物性能评价[J].东华大学学报,2007,33(2)：256-260,264.
[10]陈天文,李秀艳,傅吉全.织物的透湿性及液态水传递研究[J].北京服装学院学报,2005,25(1)：25-30.
[11]唐琴.双模型互证法在织物热湿舒适性评价中的应用[J].五邑大学学报,2002,16(3)：42-45.
[12]李东平,宋丽君.兼有护肤功能的吸湿排汗型面料的开发[J].纺织科技进展,2008(5)：17-20.
[13]洪桂焕,党旭艳.透湿抗紫外线多功能面料的研发[J].丝绸.2009(1)：18-19.
[14]余进,张辉.吸湿排汗涤纶／莫代尔混纺纱的开发与应用[J].2006,34(11)：43-44.
[15]韩飞.亲水性纤维和吸湿排汗纤维的开发应用[J].广东化纤,2003(2-3)：38-42.
[16]严建华.吸湿排汗纤维开发与性能研究[J].合成技术及应用,2004,19(4)：1-4.
[17]胡盼盼,潘婉莲,吴旭华等.异形涤纶导湿性能研究[J].合成纤维工业,2002,25(5)：15-17.
[18]王发明,胡锋,周小红等.吸湿排汗纤维湿传递模型的研究[J].青岛大学学报,2007,22(3)：23-27.
[19]王其,冯勋伟.织物差动毛细效应模型及应用[J].东华大学学报,2000,27(3)：54-57.
[20]杨晓红,龚天晓.染整加工对涤棉氨纶针织毛圈织物性能的影响[J].纺织科技进展,2004(5)：38-42.
[21]陈植远.控制氨纶单面织物风格的方法[J].针织工业,2010(5)：14-15.
[22]段海霞,单小红.氨纶弹性疲劳性能的研究[J].新疆大学学报,2007,24(1)：121-126.
[23]柳世龙.纬编针织物弹性控制的探讨[J].针织工业,2003(5)：50-51.
[24]高守武.氨纶汗布弹性回复率的影响因素分折[J].广西纺织科技,2003,33(1)：38-39.
[25]黄庆,崔宁,崔华国.内外弹性纤维的现状与发展[J].纺织导报,2009(7)：60-64.
[26]石数红,崔玉梅.氨纶的生产过程、现状及发展对策[J].新疆纺织,2007(3)：23-26.
[27]白玉林,何凤.氨纶弹力织物产品开发与设计[J].上海纺织科技,2005,33(3)：42-44.
[28]陈振洲.弹性针织物弹性测试方法探讨[J].针织工业,2003(4)：101-102.
[29]陈晓玲,聂存云,刘驰.面料弹性测试及其分类[J].广西纺织科技,2009,38(1)：20-22,40.
[30]肖丰,李营建.氨纶包芯纱蠕变性能测试与分析[J].纺织学报,2007,28(6)：48-51.
[31]Gagge AP, Burton A Cand, Bazett H. C. A, Practical System of Units for the Description of the Heat Exchange of Man Wuth His Environment[J].Science,1941(94):428-430.
[32]Woodcock A. H, Moisture Transfer in Textile Systerms[J], Part I, Textile Research Journal,1962, 32(8):638—633; Moisture Transfer in Textile Systerms[J], Part 11, Textile Research Journal,1966, 32(9):719-723.
[33]凌群民.显汗状态下服装热湿舒适性研究[D].苏州大学,2004.
[34]]松本义隆等,日本纤维机械学会志,1998,41(11)：566-575.
[35]]若野宽睦等,日本纤维机械学会志,1992。45(3)：38-47.
[36]王文科.氨纶工业的现状及发展趋势[J].聚酯工业,2000,13(4)：8-11,26.
[37]Koslowski, H. J. Elastic yarn technologies for comfort[J]. Textiles Chemical.2004,54(1): 4.
[38]Miller, H. Spandex Stretches for Ever Higher Sales and New Markets, Despite Overcapacity[J]. International Fiber Journal,2004,19(2):22-29.
[39]A. Bayazit Marmarali. Dimensional and Physical Properties of Cotton/Spandex Single Jersey Fabrics[J].Textile Research Journal,2003,73(1):11-14.
[40]Serkan Tezel. Experimental Investigation of Effects of Spandex Brand and Tightness Factor on Dimensional and Physical Properties of Cotton/Spandex Single Jersey Fabrics[J].Textile Research Journal,2008,78 (11):966-976.
[41]陈南梁.氨纶弹性针织品的发展与内衣卫生保健[J].上海纺织科技,2005,33(1)：6-7.
[42]吴义根.涤纶长丝及织物吸湿排汗性能的研究[D].东华大学,2005.
[43]李秀兰,于晓燕,王文芝.氨纶高弹针织物的开发[J].针织工业,2000(3)：25-26.
[44]职秀娟.氨纶弹性针织面料服装压与其延弹性关系的研究[D].东华大学,2007.
[45]赵书经.纺织材料实验教程[M].中国纺织出版社.1989.
[46]于伟东,储才元.纺织物理(第二版)[M].东华大学出版社.2009
[47]华东纺织工学院针织教研组编.国外对针织物尺寸稳定性的研究及应用[M].1980：5-6,10-11.
[48]D.L.Munden. The geometry and dimensional properties of plain-knit fabrics[J].J.T.I,1959:448-451.
[49]宋鹏飞.玄武岩纤维及其针织物性能的研究[D].青岛大学,2008.
[50]谭磊.针织物的尺寸特性[J].纺织学报,2004,25(6)：120-123.
[51]顾维铀.纬编氨纶针织物及其疵点分析[J].针织工业,2007(12)：6-9.
[52]毛成栋Modal纤维织物服用舒适性探讨[J].化纤与纺织技术,2007(3)：24-26.
[53]刘涛.圣麻纤维／棉混纺针织产品开发及性能研究[D].青岛大学硕士学位论文.2010
[54]杜密宇coolplus纤维及其针织物的性能研究及应用[D].西安工程科技学院,2005.
[55]郭晓芸.棉氨纶交织弹性针织物的性能研究[D].东华大学,2006.
[56]李显波.氨纶弹力针织物编织工艺及织物延弹性研究[D].青岛大学,2004.
[57]高静,王秋美.针织物拉伸弹性的测试及其特征[J].纺织学报,2000,21(3)：38-40.
[58]于伟东.纺织材料学[M].中国纺织出版社.2006.
[2]陈天文.织物的热湿传递研究与模拟模型[D].北京服装学院.2005
[3]刘玉磊,孟家光.吸湿排汗纺织品类型及应用[J].纺织科技进展,2009(5)：27-30.
[4]秦志刚,马晓红.吸湿排汗功能纤维及其针织产品设计[J].天津纺织科技,2007(3)：39-40.
[5]单丽娟,李亚滨,刘建华.吸湿排汗聚酯纤维研究进展[J].印染助剂,2006,23(6)：5-8.
[6]刘茜.吸湿排汗纤维的开发及应用[J].广西纺织科技,2003,32(3)：38-41.
[7]孙锋.氨纶弹力针织面料热湿舒适性的研究[J].针织工业,2002(3)：42-44.
[8]吴基作,陈益松.纺织品热湿传递性测试装置[J].印染,2010(4)：42-44.
[9]任惠,吴雄英,王善元.吸湿排汗涤纶织物性能评价[J].东华大学学报,2007,33(2)：256-260,264.
[10]陈天文,李秀艳,傅吉全.织物的透湿性及液态水传递研究[J].北京服装学院学报,2005,25(1)：25-30.
[11]唐琴.双模型互证法在织物热湿舒适性评价中的应用[J].五邑大学学报,2002,16(3)：42-45.
[12]李东平,宋丽君.兼有护肤功能的吸湿排汗型面料的开发[J].纺织科技进展,2008(5)：17-20.
[13]洪桂焕,党旭艳.透湿抗紫外线多功能面料的研发[J].丝绸.2009(1)：18-19.
[14]余进,张辉.吸湿排汗涤纶／莫代尔混纺纱的开发与应用[J].2006,34(11)：43-44.
[15]韩飞.亲水性纤维和吸湿排汗纤维的开发应用[J].广东化纤,2003(2-3)：38-42.
[16]严建华.吸湿排汗纤维开发与性能研究[J].合成技术及应用,2004,19(4)：1-4.
[17]胡盼盼,潘婉莲,吴旭华等.异形涤纶导湿性能研究[J].合成纤维工业,2002,25(5)：15-17.
[18]王发明,胡锋,周小红等.吸湿排汗纤维湿传递模型的研究[J].青岛大学学报,2007,22(3)：23-27.
[19]王其,冯勋伟.织物差动毛细效应模型及应用[J].东华大学学报,2000,27(3)：54-57.
[20]杨晓红,龚天晓.染整加工对涤棉氨纶针织毛圈织物性能的影响[J].纺织科技进展,2004(5)：38-42.
[21]陈植远.控制氨纶单面织物风格的方法[J].针织工业,2010(5)：14-15.
[22]段海霞,单小红.氨纶弹性疲劳性能的研究[J].新疆大学学报,2007,24(1)：121-126.
[23]柳世龙.纬编针织物弹性控制的探讨[J].针织工业,2003(5)：50-51.
[24]高守武.氨纶汗布弹性回复率的影响因素分折[J].广西纺织科技,2003,33(1)：38-39.
[25]黄庆,崔宁,崔华国.内外弹性纤维的现状与发展[J].纺织导报,2009(7)：60-64.
[26]石数红,崔玉梅.氨纶的生产过程、现状及发展对策[J].新疆纺织,2007(3)：23-26.
[27]白玉林,何凤.氨纶弹力织物产品开发与设计[J].上海纺织科技,2005,33(3)：42-44.
[28]陈振洲.弹性针织物弹性测试方法探讨[J].针织工业,2003(4)：101-102.
[29]陈晓玲,聂存云,刘驰.面料弹性测试及其分类[J].广西纺织科技,2009,38(1)：20-22,40.
[30]肖丰,李营建.氨纶包芯纱蠕变性能测试与分析[J].纺织学报,2007,28(6)：48-51.
[31]Gagge AP, Burton A Cand, Bazett H. C. A, Practical System of Units for the Description of the Heat Exchange of Man Wuth His Environment[J].Science,1941(94):428-430.
[32]Woodcock A. H, Moisture Transfer in Textile Systerms[J], Part I, Textile Research Journal,1962, 32(8):638—633; Moisture Transfer in Textile Systerms[J], Part 11, Textile Research Journal,1966, 32(9):719-723.
[33]凌群民.显汗状态下服装热湿舒适性研究[D].苏州大学,2004.
[34]]松本义隆等,日本纤维机械学会志,1998,41(11)：566-575.
[35]]若野宽睦等,日本纤维机械学会志,1992。45(3)：38-47.
[36]王文科.氨纶工业的现状及发展趋势[J].聚酯工业,2000,13(4)：8-11,26.
[37]Koslowski, H. J. Elastic yarn technologies for comfort[J]. Textiles Chemical.2004,54(1): 4.
[38]Miller, H. Spandex Stretches for Ever Higher Sales and New Markets, Despite Overcapacity[J]. International Fiber Journal,2004,19(2):22-29.
[39]A. Bayazit Marmarali. Dimensional and Physical Properties of Cotton/Spandex Single Jersey Fabrics[J].Textile Research Journal,2003,73(1):11-14.
[40]Serkan Tezel. Experimental Investigation of Effects of Spandex Brand and Tightness Factor on Dimensional and Physical Properties of Cotton/Spandex Single Jersey Fabrics[J].Textile Research Journal,2008,78 (11):966-976.
[41]陈南梁.氨纶弹性针织品的发展与内衣卫生保健[J].上海纺织科技,2005,33(1)：6-7.
[42]吴义根.涤纶长丝及织物吸湿排汗性能的研究[D].东华大学,2005.
[43]李秀兰,于晓燕,王文芝.氨纶高弹针织物的开发[J].针织工业,2000(3)：25-26.
[44]职秀娟.氨纶弹性针织面料服装压与其延弹性关系的研究[D].东华大学,2007.
[45]赵书经.纺织材料实验教程[M].中国纺织出版社.1989.
[46]于伟东,储才元.纺织物理(第二版)[M].东华大学出版社.2009
[47]华东纺织工学院针织教研组编.国外对针织物尺寸稳定性的研究及应用[M].1980：5-6,10-11.
[48]D.L.Munden. The geometry and dimensional properties of plain-knit fabrics[J].J.T.I,1959:448-451.
[49]宋鹏飞.玄武岩纤维及其针织物性能的研究[D].青岛大学,2008.
[50]谭磊.针织物的尺寸特性[J].纺织学报,2004,25(6)：120-123.
[51]顾维铀.纬编氨纶针织物及其疵点分析[J].针织工业,2007(12)：6-9.
[52]毛成栋Modal纤维织物服用舒适性探讨[J].化纤与纺织技术,2007(3)：24-26.
[53]刘涛.圣麻纤维／棉混纺针织产品开发及性能研究[D].青岛大学硕士学位论文.2010
[54]杜密宇coolplus纤维及其针织物的性能研究及应用[D].西安工程科技学院,2005.
[55]郭晓芸.棉氨纶交织弹性针织物的性能研究[D].东华大学,2006.
[56]李显波.氨纶弹力针织物编织工艺及织物延弹性研究[D].青岛大学,2004.
[57]高静,王秋美.针织物拉伸弹性的测试及其特征[J].纺织学报,2000,21(3)：38-40.
[58]于伟东.纺织材料学[M].中国纺织出版社.2006.