T恤的历史及文化研究
摘要
在竞争激烈的现代社会中,T恤以其轻松舒适的棉质感受,大胆丰富的色彩、图案,简洁、自由的穿衣形态带给人们轻松、自由的感受,并越来越被长期处于紧张、压抑的工作环境中的现代人群所喜爱。穿上它,能适当缓解人们的工作压力,更能使人们的心境得到彻底的放松,它承载着人们对穿衣方式的美好愿望和精神寄托,逐渐弥补着现代人穿衣环境中的某些缺憾。
文章以T恤为切入点,通过分析其起源、发展、变迁、流行、文化及其对社会产生的效应等内容,回顾和探索人类所经历的衣生活形态及其影响下的人们在价值取向、审美方式、追求目标等方面产生的根本性转变,为正处于社会大转型时期中的群体及个体如何在纷繁复杂的国际局势冲击下,正确理解经济社会给衣生活带来的影响,以及如何把握个人的生活信念、理想追求等提出了切实的理论依据和行之有效的途径。
本人在对T恤的发展进程作系统详实地阐述的基础上,透过其特定历史背景下的流行现象及文化内涵,提出了当前社会衣生活中存在的问题,借此扩展至其它生活领域,为如何提高人们的生活质量和审美水平,如何促进生活价值导向的变革提出了一些参考意见。同时,本文在前人研究T恤的基础上已有所超越,理论更加系统,研究也更有深度,并能结合现状提出一些可行有效的改进措施,这将对T恤产业的健康发展及社会生活方式的改善具有一定的现实指导意义。
In the highly competed modern society, T-shirt may make people relaxed and unrestricted through exaggerated and various colors, patterns, comfortable cotton material and laconic way of wearing .T-shirt may release the pressure of work and make people totally relaxed. It bears good will and spirit of wearing, gradually making up the defects of modern wearing environment.
The article begins with T-shirt ,and looks back to the way of wearing during the past time, which influences the essential changes of values, tastes and seek of goals, through the study of its origin , development, changes, popularity , culture , positive influence on community and so on .It provides practical theory and a effective way for the colony and individuals during the pace of social transition to get the right end of stick of the influence brought by the economic society on clothing and life under the intense global compact and hold individual faith and pursuit of their ideals.
Apart from of the minutely exposition of the development of T-shirt, the article puts forward the problem of present wearing in life through the popularity under certain social background and culture. Based on that, it expands to the other areas of life to provide effective suggestions for the improvement of living and tastes and promotion of value changes. Besides that, this article is superior to the previous study with more systemic theory and more profound study. According to the present condition, the piece presents some practical corrective measures, which will give some directions to the healthy development of T-shirt and peoples'way of life.
文章以T恤为切入点,通过分析其起源、发展、变迁、流行、文化及其对社会产生的效应等内容,回顾和探索人类所经历的衣生活形态及其影响下的人们在价值取向、审美方式、追求目标等方面产生的根本性转变,为正处于社会大转型时期中的群体及个体如何在纷繁复杂的国际局势冲击下,正确理解经济社会给衣生活带来的影响,以及如何把握个人的生活信念、理想追求等提出了切实的理论依据和行之有效的途径。
本人在对T恤的发展进程作系统详实地阐述的基础上,透过其特定历史背景下的流行现象及文化内涵,提出了当前社会衣生活中存在的问题,借此扩展至其它生活领域,为如何提高人们的生活质量和审美水平,如何促进生活价值导向的变革提出了一些参考意见。同时,本文在前人研究T恤的基础上已有所超越,理论更加系统,研究也更有深度,并能结合现状提出一些可行有效的改进措施,这将对T恤产业的健康发展及社会生活方式的改善具有一定的现实指导意义。
In the highly competed modern society, T-shirt may make people relaxed and unrestricted through exaggerated and various colors, patterns, comfortable cotton material and laconic way of wearing .T-shirt may release the pressure of work and make people totally relaxed. It bears good will and spirit of wearing, gradually making up the defects of modern wearing environment.
The article begins with T-shirt ,and looks back to the way of wearing during the past time, which influences the essential changes of values, tastes and seek of goals, through the study of its origin , development, changes, popularity , culture , positive influence on community and so on .It provides practical theory and a effective way for the colony and individuals during the pace of social transition to get the right end of stick of the influence brought by the economic society on clothing and life under the intense global compact and hold individual faith and pursuit of their ideals.
Apart from of the minutely exposition of the development of T-shirt, the article puts forward the problem of present wearing in life through the popularity under certain social background and culture. Based on that, it expands to the other areas of life to provide effective suggestions for the improvement of living and tastes and promotion of value changes. Besides that, this article is superior to the previous study with more systemic theory and more profound study. According to the present condition, the piece presents some practical corrective measures, which will give some directions to the healthy development of T-shirt and peoples'way of life.
引文
(1)许雯雯、许博,街头篮球文化对HIP-HOP时尚的影响[J]
(2)王宇宏,T恤的流行推动力与流行价值探究[J],河南纺织高等专科学校学报
(3)唐燕,浅析后现代主义的产生与服装潮流的多元化[J]
(4)刘君,时装的后现代主义流行语汇[J]
(5)张竞琼,服装艺术--衣品如人品[M],安徽:安徽美术出版社,2003,1,10
(6)徐迅、汪波,论“街头时装”的正效应[J];
(7)以“文化”引导服装品牌营销,做强服装品牌[J],中国服装鞋帽网
(8)张竞琼,西“服”东渐--20世纪中外服饰交流史[M],安徽:安徽美术出版社,2002,1,67
(9)同(5),11
(1)陈逸飞,T恤[M],南京:江苏美术出版社,2005
(2)中秋,T恤秀[M],北京:中国宇航出版社,2005
(3)thames and hudson,《Street style--from sidewalk to catwalk》[M],The hongkong Polytechnic university library
(4)贾玺增,近代西方非主流服饰发展研究[M],天津:天津工业大学,2002
(5)华梅,服饰社会学[M],北京:中国纺织出版社,2005
(7)包铭新,国外后现代服饰[M],南京:江苏美术出版社,2001
(8)王受之,世界时装史[M],北京:中国青年出版社,2002
(9)Alison Lurie,解读服装[M],李长青译,北京:中国纺织出版社,2000
(10)李当岐,服装学概论[M],北京:高等教育出版社,1998
(11)包铭新等,中国服饰这棵树[M],上海:上海书店出版社
(1)毛立辉,休闲服饰的“神”“形”文化探[J],中国服饰报
(2)李丽芳,从T恤衫谈当代审美文化心态[J],哈尔滨师专学报,1997,3,69-71
(3)范强,T恤衫设计及文化内涵[J],装饰,2005,9
(4)张渭源,时装品牌的发展策略[J],98'宁波国际服装节服饰学术论坛,1998,10
(5)梁建芳、张星、李筱胜,我国服装品牌市场现状及分析[J],苏州大学学报工科版
(6)张福良,立足当代消费文化,锻造著名服装品牌[J],宁波大学学报人文科学版
(7)刘贵生、龙正平,论国产服装的品牌文化塑造[J]
(8)戴鸿、宋华文,休闲类服装的产生[J],四川丝绸,1999,3
(9)侯建,对国内T恤文化的思考[J],丝网印刷,2006.12,5-6
(10)刘心宽、赵冰,服装流行因素探究[J],四川丝绸,2006,3
(11)吕云麓,中国T恤产业现状与发展前景[J],网印工业,2001,6,6-10
(12)洪帝坤,国际T恤文化现况与未来[J],网印工业,2001,6,11-12
(1)广东服装网:www.gdfz.com
(2)九州梦网:www.bbvod.net
(3)时尚中心:www.fashion.21cn.com
(4)图片来源:服饰流行前线:www.pop-fashion.com
中国衣服网:www.yf.china.com
IT女性网:www.elady.enet.com
中国时尚品牌网:chinasspp.com
(2)王宇宏,T恤的流行推动力与流行价值探究[J],河南纺织高等专科学校学报
(3)唐燕,浅析后现代主义的产生与服装潮流的多元化[J]
(4)刘君,时装的后现代主义流行语汇[J]
(5)张竞琼,服装艺术--衣品如人品[M],安徽:安徽美术出版社,2003,1,10
(6)徐迅、汪波,论“街头时装”的正效应[J];
(7)以“文化”引导服装品牌营销,做强服装品牌[J],中国服装鞋帽网
(8)张竞琼,西“服”东渐--20世纪中外服饰交流史[M],安徽:安徽美术出版社,2002,1,67
(9)同(5),11
(1)陈逸飞,T恤[M],南京:江苏美术出版社,2005
(2)中秋,T恤秀[M],北京:中国宇航出版社,2005
(3)thames and hudson,《Street style--from sidewalk to catwalk》[M],The hongkong Polytechnic university library
(4)贾玺增,近代西方非主流服饰发展研究[M],天津:天津工业大学,2002
(5)华梅,服饰社会学[M],北京:中国纺织出版社,2005
(7)包铭新,国外后现代服饰[M],南京:江苏美术出版社,2001
(8)王受之,世界时装史[M],北京:中国青年出版社,2002
(9)Alison Lurie,解读服装[M],李长青译,北京:中国纺织出版社,2000
(10)李当岐,服装学概论[M],北京:高等教育出版社,1998
(11)包铭新等,中国服饰这棵树[M],上海:上海书店出版社
(1)毛立辉,休闲服饰的“神”“形”文化探[J],中国服饰报
(2)李丽芳,从T恤衫谈当代审美文化心态[J],哈尔滨师专学报,1997,3,69-71
(3)范强,T恤衫设计及文化内涵[J],装饰,2005,9
(4)张渭源,时装品牌的发展策略[J],98'宁波国际服装节服饰学术论坛,1998,10
(5)梁建芳、张星、李筱胜,我国服装品牌市场现状及分析[J],苏州大学学报工科版
(6)张福良,立足当代消费文化,锻造著名服装品牌[J],宁波大学学报人文科学版
(7)刘贵生、龙正平,论国产服装的品牌文化塑造[J]
(8)戴鸿、宋华文,休闲类服装的产生[J],四川丝绸,1999,3
(9)侯建,对国内T恤文化的思考[J],丝网印刷,2006.12,5-6
(10)刘心宽、赵冰,服装流行因素探究[J],四川丝绸,2006,3
(11)吕云麓,中国T恤产业现状与发展前景[J],网印工业,2001,6,6-10
(12)洪帝坤,国际T恤文化现况与未来[J],网印工业,2001,6,11-12
(1)广东服装网:www.gdfz.com
(2)九州梦网:www.bbvod.net
(3)时尚中心:www.fashion.21cn.com
(4)图片来源:服饰流行前线:www.pop-fashion.com
中国衣服网:www.yf.china.com
IT女性网:www.elady.enet.com
中国时尚品牌网:chinasspp.com