基于事件相关电位技术的服装情绪研究
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摘要
现代社会丰富的信息资源和便捷的获取渠道为消费者提供了多样化的选择空间，导致服装行业的竞争日益加剧，加之消费者需求的转变和现代设计理念的深化，如何将服装的实用属性和精神属性进行平衡，将人对服装主观的甚至无意识的情感偏好转换为具体的设计参数，为相关服装企业和人员设计满足消费者情感需求和认同的服装提供参考，是在当前社会环境中获取设计认可度和市场占有率的重要方面。因此，对服装诱发的消费者情绪反应加以分析研究以便进行科学的情感化服装设计是十分必要的。
情绪的产生受人的心理机制和生理机制的双重影响，基于心理机制的情绪评估是消费者自我主观态度的体现，是较为成熟且广泛使用的服装情绪评价方法。由于消费者文化差异、社会背景、受教育程度等因素的制约，加之消费者在实际参与评价过程中主观态度的变化和对感性词汇理解的偏差，得到数据的稳定性和一致性不能保证非常理想，虽然可以通过信度评价等方法在一定程度上抑制误差的作用，但很难大幅度消除误差的影响，因此这种测量情绪的方式虽然广泛易用，但在特定的条件下，与通过生理指标侦测情绪反应的技术手段相比不够直接和准确。人脑作为心理形成和认知功能的重要器官，其电位变化与心理活动密切相关，由于脑电的自发性以及事件相关电位（ERPs）作为一种诱发电位具有的高时间分辨率、波形和潜伏期恒定的特性，可以对情绪产生时的实时电位变化进行测量（注重原始情感反应），减少认知参与，并产生连续的多区域电极电位波形数据，借助发达的计算机技术和数学工具进行分析处理，可以获得丰富的心理活动相关信息量。
本研究以服装诱发的消费者情绪作为研究对象，在对情绪理论分析总结的基础上，明确提出服装情绪的概念，并探索其有效的评价方法。以运动休闲风格的男士上装作为研究实例，对其设计元素进行拆分，通过对消费者感性意向选择结果的数据挖掘，建立起一个涵盖三类基本情绪的测试平面。将该测试平面作为刺激材料分别从主观意识与生理唤醒的角度，通过情绪维度认知调查与ERPs记录分析的方法研究男上装诱发的情绪特征，结合感性选择的聚类结果，比较和评价两种方法在服装情绪研究中的有效性以及两种方法得到研究结果之间的关系。在此基础上，探索建立一种有效的基于ERPs技术的服装情绪研究方法，并通过提取的成分变化和反应脑区等辨识度信息与经典视觉诱发的情绪ERPs研究结果进行比较，对此研究方法的有效性进行验证，为获得更加准确、便捷、高效和完备的服装情绪评价方法提供技术支持。围绕这一研究目的，整个研究分为五个部分：
第一部分：在分析总结复杂情绪理论的基础上，从人对服装实用功能和精神功能情感认同的方面明确提出服装情绪的概念。在分析总结情绪产生机制的基础上，对服装情绪产生的心理基础和生理基础进行阐述，并将服装情绪的主客观评价方法进行总结归纳。此部分研究内容可以作为后续服装情绪相关研究的理论参考。
第二部分：从110份消费者感性意向调查有效问卷中获取大部分消费者对男上装设计元素组合的情感选择，运用数据挖掘的技术手段，使用K-means算法聚类出4簇设计模型，根据每簇特征值拟合出本簇的代表设计模型作为积极的情绪代表，再根据簇内设计样本与本簇特征值欧几里德距离为中间值和最大值的原则，分别选出设计样本作为本簇中性的和消极的情绪代表，共计12款，建立起一个涵盖三类基本情绪（正性积极的、中性的、负性消极的）的测试平面，并以此作为情绪维度认知实验和ERPs实验的输入刺激材料，进一步分析验证聚类的有效性。
第三部分：将服装情绪以维度观点进行区分，通过情绪认知工具对情绪维度的特征做出分析描述。邀请20位具备专业背景被试使用SAM9点量表对测试平面中的设计样本进行情绪愉悦度、唤醒度、支配度的等级评价。使用SPSS软件基于单因素方差分析、配对样本t检验、相关分析等统计学方法分析情绪分类因素、性别因素对维度评价结果的影响以及三个维度间的相互关系，提取分析测试结果的统计学特征和意义，同时主要根据愉悦度评价水平与测试平面中刺激材料情绪类型的对应关系，分别检验了聚类算法构建服装情绪测试平面方法的准确性和典型心理学评价技术的有效性。
第四部分：以测试平面中的设计样本作为刺激材料，通过E-Prime软件对刺激材料进行叠加呈现，对8位被试的实时脑电位变化进行记录，使用ERPs技术采用峰振幅与峰潜伏期测量法通过SCAN软件对记录的脑电数据进行离线处理，通过对左、中、右脑及额、中、顶叶脑区中的早期成分、中期成分和晚期成分进行统计分析，提取出与不同情绪类型相对应的脑电成分变化（振幅与潜伏期）和反应脑区特征，分析其与测试平面中情绪类别的对应关系，并与经典的视觉诱发情绪ERPs研究成果进行比较，检验生理学评价技术的有效性，为服装诱发的情感评定提供生理学特征参考。
第五部分：围绕研究目的，通过对心理、生理两部分实验结果的分析，总结得到的主要结论，提出本研究的创新点和研究价值，并对未来ERPs技术在服装情绪研究和应用中的发展方向进行展望。
本研究得到的主要结论如下：
1.基于聚类算法所构建的不同情绪类别设计样本在服装情绪维度评价中具有显著性差异，情绪维度的认知调查结果与聚类生成的情绪类型高度一致，这一方面是对创建的情绪样本在心理认知调查层面的验证，表明基于聚类算法所构建服装情绪测试平面方法的准确性和有效性，另一方面也证明了SAM评价方法在服装情绪研究中的有效性。
2. ERPs实验结果表明，情感化视觉信息的加工过程可以通过分析ERPs成分的振幅（大小）和潜伏期（时间）获得。通过对研究实例中几个典型ERPs成分的分析可见，总体来说情绪类型间的潜伏期和振幅主效应显著，表明三类情绪类型在加工时间和强度上具有显著差异，因此脑电成分变化和反应脑区的特征作为服装情绪类型的甄别指标能够对服装诱发的不同情绪进行准确识别，早期成分可以作为服装情绪识别的主要参考指标，中期和晚期成分作为辅助生理参考指标进行服装情绪评定，有效用于评价消费者对于服装设计方案的偏好程度与消费意愿强度。
3.对运动休闲风格的男上装诱发的情绪而言，具有以下特征：
（1）三维度的关系：愉悦度与支配度之间存在明显线性相关；愉悦度与唤醒度之间没有明显的线性相关关系；针对不同的刺激材料唤醒度和支配度之间的线性相关关系不确定。愉悦度与支配度之间具有正相关关系，表明愉悦度越高时，购买欲望越强，因此认为情绪的效价可作为评估消费者情绪偏爱度的指标。
（2）ERPs特征可以参考以下成分变化和反应脑区：
早期的ERPs成分显示在情绪信息的加工过程中，消极情绪刺激加工时间很短，优先引起注意，在刺激呈现110ms之后唤醒水平开始影响ERPs波形，N1成分出现。对P1成分而言，消极刺激引起较大的电压幅值，枕区在加工时间和电压幅值上变化最为显著。因此认为早期成分在负责处理视觉信息部分的初级视觉皮层变化显著，即位于大脑后部的枕叶皮层。
脑中区和顶区的N2成分分析发现，N2在刺激呈现210-250ms变化显著，消极刺激类型时潜伏期明显缩短，振幅增大，大脑偏侧性不明显。P2成分电极间的差异不显著，较积极情绪而言，消极情绪的振幅更大，顶区变化显著。
消极情绪刺激诱发的P3脑电振幅最大，且加工时间长。顶区电极振幅均值最大，右脑半球加工强度大于左脑半球和中线。
研究和发展以ERPs具体指标为参考因素的服装情绪评价方法，可以充实完善情感化服装设计体系，提升设计效能，对感性设计在服装领域的应用与发展具有重要意义。
The convenient channel of abundant information resources in modern society provideddiverse choices for consumers. The competition of clothing industry is intensified day by day.In addition to the translation of consumers needs and the development of the modern designphilosophy, it is very important to balance the functional and emotional needs of clothing,and convert the consumers’ unconscious emotional states into specific design parameters, andto assist enterprise and personnel to design clothing which will satisfy the consumers’emotional needs and acceptances in order to gain brand recognition and market share in thepresent social environment. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze and study the consumers’emotional response toward clothing.
The occurrence of emotion refers to the dual influences of mental mechanism andphysiological mechanism. Self-report based on mental mechanism is the expression ofsubjects’ subjective attitudes, which has been used extensively in clothing evaluations.However, because of the restrictions of culture, social background and education level of thesubjects, and the changes of attitudes in the actual evaluation process, the stability andconsistency of data could not be guaranteed. In addition, subjects’ understandings ofsensibility words and the deviations from self-emotional descriptions may lead to inaccurateresults. These errors include both system errors and random errors. Even though, theinfluence of errors could be reduced through reliability evaluations, it is difficult to eliminatethe influence of errors by a large margin. Therefore, even the psychological method ofemotional measurement is convenient and useful, it is lack of directness and accuracycompared with the emotional measurements through physiological index in specificcondition.
Human brain, as the important organ of mental formation and cognitive function, itspotentials are closely related with psychological activities. Because the changes of humanbrain potentials are spontaneous and impulsive, the potentials are directly recorded from scalpto express process of mental activities. ERPs as a kind of evoked potential have thecharacteristics of high time resolution and constant waveform and lantency. Researchers canmeasure the real-time changes of potentials during stimuli occurrences (more focuses onoriginal emotional reactions), and produce continuous waveform of electrode potential inmulti-zones. By virtue of advanced computer technology and mathematical tools to processthe continuous and multi-regions waveforms, abundant information associated withpsychological activities could be obtained.
Therefore, in order to explore an effective methodology to assess the consumer’semotional responses toward clothing, this research chose human emotions evoked by clothing as the research object, clearly proposed the concept of clothing emotion on the basis ofanalyzing emotional theory. Men’s causal jacket was chosen as the research subject. On thebasis of design elements disassembly, a measured plane which contains three basic emotionswas constructed through data mining of the consumers’ sensibility selections. This measuredplane was used as stimulus materials to research through the cognitive experiment ofemotional dimensions and the experiment of event-related potentials (ERPs) recordings. Theeffectiveness and relationship of the result from the two clothing emotion research methodswere compared and evaluated to construct an effective evaluation method of clothingemotional assessment based on the ERPs technology. The effectiveness of this method wasverified by the characteristics of extracted components and regions. It will aid to developmore accurate, convenient, efficient, and complete techniques for clothing emotion researchin the future. The whole study contained five parts.
The first step was to clearly define the concept of clothing emotion from the consumer’semotional approval of both functional and emotional aspects of clothing; to study theemotion-generation mechanism psychologically and physiologically; and to analyze themeasuring methods of clothing emotion combined with emotional components. The resultscould be used as the theoretical references for the following study on clothing emotions.The second step was to get the major consumers emotional selections of the designelements from110effective questionnaires. Four design models were clustered usingK-means algorithm of data mining. According to the eigenvalue of each cluster, the typicaldesign model of each cluster was defined as the positive representation of that cluster.The neutral and the negative representations of each cluster were defined using the medianand the maximum Euclidean distances between the design models and eigenvalue in thatcluster accordingly. A measured plane was constructed that contained three basic emotions(positive, neutral and negative) and comprised12design samples totally. This plane was usedas the stimulus for dimensionality cognitive evaluation and ERPs recording in order to furtheranalyze and verify its effectiveness.
The third step was to distinguish clothing emotion using dimension viewpoint, and todescribe the characteristics of emotional dimensions using cognitive tool.20subjects withdifferent professional background were invited to evaluate pleasure, arousal and dominanceof the constructed representative design samples using9-point scale. Emotional classificationfactors, the influence of gender factors and the relationship between three dimensions wereanalyzed using one-way analysis of variance, pared-samples T test, correlation analysis, et al.in SPSS. The statistic characteristics and significance of results were extracted and analyzed.According to the corresponding relations between level of pleasure and emotional categoriesin the measured plane, the accuracy of measured plane constructed by cluster algorithm andthe effectiveness of typical psychological measurement were evaluated separately.
Forth, the samples in the constructed measurement plane were used as the stimulus, andsuperposed presented through E-Prime software. Real-time brain potentials of8subjects wererecorded through ERPs technique. The early, middle and late components in left, middle,right, frontal, and central, potential were off-line analyzed using peak-amplitude andpeak-latency measurement in SCAN. Potential changes (amplitude and latency) and reactiveregion related to different emotional categories were extracted and recognized using SPSS.The corresponding relations between the results and emotional categories in the originalmeasurement plane, the accuracy of the measurement plane constructed by cluster algorithmwere analyzed, and the effectiveness of physiological measurement were evaluated, in orderto provide physiological characteristic references for emotional assessment of clothing.
Fifth，according to the research purpose, the conclusions were summarized through theanalysis of psychological experiment and physiological measurement. The innovations andvalues of this research were proposed. The advantages and limitations of this research and thedevelopment direction of ERPs technology used in emotional fashion design in the futurewere also discussed.
The conclusions were as following:
1. Different emotional categories constructed by clustering algorithm were significantlydifferent in the evaluation of emotional dimension. The results of dimensional cognition andemotional categories by clustered were consistent. It indicated the accuracy and effectivenessof the measurement plane constructed by cluster algorithm on one hand. On the other hand, italso proved the effectiveness of the SAM measurement used in clothing emotion researches.
2. Clothing emotions evoked scalp recording related ERPs. Results indicated that theprocess of emotional visual information could be obtained by analyzing the amplitude andlatency (time) of ERPs components. By analyzing typical ERPs components, the main effectof amplitude and latency between emotional categories was overall significant, whichindicated the significant difference between the processing time and the intension of threeemotions. Therefore, different emotions evoked by clothing could be accurately recognizedby distinguishing the characteristics of potential components and regions. Especially, theearly component of ERPs was considered as one of the main reference indexes for clothingemotional recognition, the middle and late components were considered as the assistedreference indexes. These were applied to effectively evaluate the preferable level andconsuming intention of consumers to clothing design scheme.
3. The emotional characteristics evoked by men’ casual jackets were as following:
(1) There was a positive correlation between pleasure and dominance, which indicatedthat higher pleasure was associated with stronger buying inclination. Therefore, valence couldbe used as the index to evaluate consumers’ preferences.
(2) The following component changes and response regions could be referred to when choosing brain potential characteristics as the index of emotional evaluation.
Early ERPs components indicated that the processing time of negative stimulation wasshort, which indicated that the negative stimulation drew priority attention. Arousal levelbegan to influence waveform at110ms after stimulus onset. For the P1, negative stimuluselicited larger amplitude, the latency and amplitude in occipital region was significant.Therefore, the representation in occipital region was the largest of P1. Early components weresignificant in primary visual cortex which took charge for visual information.
N2component was significantly changed in210-250ms after stimulus presented byanalyzing central and potential regions. The latency of negative stimulus was significantlyshortened, the amplitude was increased. Hemi-lateralization was not significant. There wasno difference between electrodes of P2. The amplitude of negative stimulus was larger thanpositive stimulus, potential region was significantly changed.
Negative stimulus evoked the largest P3amplitude, and the largest latency. The meanamplitude of potential region was the largest. The processing intensity of right hemispherewas larger than the left hemisphere and the midline.
The study and development of clothing emotion research using ERPs technology as thereference factors will improve and perfect the emotional fashion design system, and enhancethe design efficiency. It is significant in the application and development of Kansei design inthe emotional design field of clothing.
情绪的产生受人的心理机制和生理机制的双重影响，基于心理机制的情绪评估是消费者自我主观态度的体现，是较为成熟且广泛使用的服装情绪评价方法。由于消费者文化差异、社会背景、受教育程度等因素的制约，加之消费者在实际参与评价过程中主观态度的变化和对感性词汇理解的偏差，得到数据的稳定性和一致性不能保证非常理想，虽然可以通过信度评价等方法在一定程度上抑制误差的作用，但很难大幅度消除误差的影响，因此这种测量情绪的方式虽然广泛易用，但在特定的条件下，与通过生理指标侦测情绪反应的技术手段相比不够直接和准确。人脑作为心理形成和认知功能的重要器官，其电位变化与心理活动密切相关，由于脑电的自发性以及事件相关电位（ERPs）作为一种诱发电位具有的高时间分辨率、波形和潜伏期恒定的特性，可以对情绪产生时的实时电位变化进行测量（注重原始情感反应），减少认知参与，并产生连续的多区域电极电位波形数据，借助发达的计算机技术和数学工具进行分析处理，可以获得丰富的心理活动相关信息量。
本研究以服装诱发的消费者情绪作为研究对象，在对情绪理论分析总结的基础上，明确提出服装情绪的概念，并探索其有效的评价方法。以运动休闲风格的男士上装作为研究实例，对其设计元素进行拆分，通过对消费者感性意向选择结果的数据挖掘，建立起一个涵盖三类基本情绪的测试平面。将该测试平面作为刺激材料分别从主观意识与生理唤醒的角度，通过情绪维度认知调查与ERPs记录分析的方法研究男上装诱发的情绪特征，结合感性选择的聚类结果，比较和评价两种方法在服装情绪研究中的有效性以及两种方法得到研究结果之间的关系。在此基础上，探索建立一种有效的基于ERPs技术的服装情绪研究方法，并通过提取的成分变化和反应脑区等辨识度信息与经典视觉诱发的情绪ERPs研究结果进行比较，对此研究方法的有效性进行验证，为获得更加准确、便捷、高效和完备的服装情绪评价方法提供技术支持。围绕这一研究目的，整个研究分为五个部分：
第一部分：在分析总结复杂情绪理论的基础上，从人对服装实用功能和精神功能情感认同的方面明确提出服装情绪的概念。在分析总结情绪产生机制的基础上，对服装情绪产生的心理基础和生理基础进行阐述，并将服装情绪的主客观评价方法进行总结归纳。此部分研究内容可以作为后续服装情绪相关研究的理论参考。
第二部分：从110份消费者感性意向调查有效问卷中获取大部分消费者对男上装设计元素组合的情感选择，运用数据挖掘的技术手段，使用K-means算法聚类出4簇设计模型，根据每簇特征值拟合出本簇的代表设计模型作为积极的情绪代表，再根据簇内设计样本与本簇特征值欧几里德距离为中间值和最大值的原则，分别选出设计样本作为本簇中性的和消极的情绪代表，共计12款，建立起一个涵盖三类基本情绪（正性积极的、中性的、负性消极的）的测试平面，并以此作为情绪维度认知实验和ERPs实验的输入刺激材料，进一步分析验证聚类的有效性。
第三部分：将服装情绪以维度观点进行区分，通过情绪认知工具对情绪维度的特征做出分析描述。邀请20位具备专业背景被试使用SAM9点量表对测试平面中的设计样本进行情绪愉悦度、唤醒度、支配度的等级评价。使用SPSS软件基于单因素方差分析、配对样本t检验、相关分析等统计学方法分析情绪分类因素、性别因素对维度评价结果的影响以及三个维度间的相互关系，提取分析测试结果的统计学特征和意义，同时主要根据愉悦度评价水平与测试平面中刺激材料情绪类型的对应关系，分别检验了聚类算法构建服装情绪测试平面方法的准确性和典型心理学评价技术的有效性。
第四部分：以测试平面中的设计样本作为刺激材料，通过E-Prime软件对刺激材料进行叠加呈现，对8位被试的实时脑电位变化进行记录，使用ERPs技术采用峰振幅与峰潜伏期测量法通过SCAN软件对记录的脑电数据进行离线处理，通过对左、中、右脑及额、中、顶叶脑区中的早期成分、中期成分和晚期成分进行统计分析，提取出与不同情绪类型相对应的脑电成分变化（振幅与潜伏期）和反应脑区特征，分析其与测试平面中情绪类别的对应关系，并与经典的视觉诱发情绪ERPs研究成果进行比较，检验生理学评价技术的有效性，为服装诱发的情感评定提供生理学特征参考。
第五部分：围绕研究目的，通过对心理、生理两部分实验结果的分析，总结得到的主要结论，提出本研究的创新点和研究价值，并对未来ERPs技术在服装情绪研究和应用中的发展方向进行展望。
本研究得到的主要结论如下：
1.基于聚类算法所构建的不同情绪类别设计样本在服装情绪维度评价中具有显著性差异，情绪维度的认知调查结果与聚类生成的情绪类型高度一致，这一方面是对创建的情绪样本在心理认知调查层面的验证，表明基于聚类算法所构建服装情绪测试平面方法的准确性和有效性，另一方面也证明了SAM评价方法在服装情绪研究中的有效性。
2. ERPs实验结果表明，情感化视觉信息的加工过程可以通过分析ERPs成分的振幅（大小）和潜伏期（时间）获得。通过对研究实例中几个典型ERPs成分的分析可见，总体来说情绪类型间的潜伏期和振幅主效应显著，表明三类情绪类型在加工时间和强度上具有显著差异，因此脑电成分变化和反应脑区的特征作为服装情绪类型的甄别指标能够对服装诱发的不同情绪进行准确识别，早期成分可以作为服装情绪识别的主要参考指标，中期和晚期成分作为辅助生理参考指标进行服装情绪评定，有效用于评价消费者对于服装设计方案的偏好程度与消费意愿强度。
3.对运动休闲风格的男上装诱发的情绪而言，具有以下特征：
（1）三维度的关系：愉悦度与支配度之间存在明显线性相关；愉悦度与唤醒度之间没有明显的线性相关关系；针对不同的刺激材料唤醒度和支配度之间的线性相关关系不确定。愉悦度与支配度之间具有正相关关系，表明愉悦度越高时，购买欲望越强，因此认为情绪的效价可作为评估消费者情绪偏爱度的指标。
（2）ERPs特征可以参考以下成分变化和反应脑区：
早期的ERPs成分显示在情绪信息的加工过程中，消极情绪刺激加工时间很短，优先引起注意，在刺激呈现110ms之后唤醒水平开始影响ERPs波形，N1成分出现。对P1成分而言，消极刺激引起较大的电压幅值，枕区在加工时间和电压幅值上变化最为显著。因此认为早期成分在负责处理视觉信息部分的初级视觉皮层变化显著，即位于大脑后部的枕叶皮层。
脑中区和顶区的N2成分分析发现，N2在刺激呈现210-250ms变化显著，消极刺激类型时潜伏期明显缩短，振幅增大，大脑偏侧性不明显。P2成分电极间的差异不显著，较积极情绪而言，消极情绪的振幅更大，顶区变化显著。
消极情绪刺激诱发的P3脑电振幅最大，且加工时间长。顶区电极振幅均值最大，右脑半球加工强度大于左脑半球和中线。
研究和发展以ERPs具体指标为参考因素的服装情绪评价方法，可以充实完善情感化服装设计体系，提升设计效能，对感性设计在服装领域的应用与发展具有重要意义。
The convenient channel of abundant information resources in modern society provideddiverse choices for consumers. The competition of clothing industry is intensified day by day.In addition to the translation of consumers needs and the development of the modern designphilosophy, it is very important to balance the functional and emotional needs of clothing,and convert the consumers’ unconscious emotional states into specific design parameters, andto assist enterprise and personnel to design clothing which will satisfy the consumers’emotional needs and acceptances in order to gain brand recognition and market share in thepresent social environment. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze and study the consumers’emotional response toward clothing.
The occurrence of emotion refers to the dual influences of mental mechanism andphysiological mechanism. Self-report based on mental mechanism is the expression ofsubjects’ subjective attitudes, which has been used extensively in clothing evaluations.However, because of the restrictions of culture, social background and education level of thesubjects, and the changes of attitudes in the actual evaluation process, the stability andconsistency of data could not be guaranteed. In addition, subjects’ understandings ofsensibility words and the deviations from self-emotional descriptions may lead to inaccurateresults. These errors include both system errors and random errors. Even though, theinfluence of errors could be reduced through reliability evaluations, it is difficult to eliminatethe influence of errors by a large margin. Therefore, even the psychological method ofemotional measurement is convenient and useful, it is lack of directness and accuracycompared with the emotional measurements through physiological index in specificcondition.
Human brain, as the important organ of mental formation and cognitive function, itspotentials are closely related with psychological activities. Because the changes of humanbrain potentials are spontaneous and impulsive, the potentials are directly recorded from scalpto express process of mental activities. ERPs as a kind of evoked potential have thecharacteristics of high time resolution and constant waveform and lantency. Researchers canmeasure the real-time changes of potentials during stimuli occurrences (more focuses onoriginal emotional reactions), and produce continuous waveform of electrode potential inmulti-zones. By virtue of advanced computer technology and mathematical tools to processthe continuous and multi-regions waveforms, abundant information associated withpsychological activities could be obtained.
Therefore, in order to explore an effective methodology to assess the consumer’semotional responses toward clothing, this research chose human emotions evoked by clothing as the research object, clearly proposed the concept of clothing emotion on the basis ofanalyzing emotional theory. Men’s causal jacket was chosen as the research subject. On thebasis of design elements disassembly, a measured plane which contains three basic emotionswas constructed through data mining of the consumers’ sensibility selections. This measuredplane was used as stimulus materials to research through the cognitive experiment ofemotional dimensions and the experiment of event-related potentials (ERPs) recordings. Theeffectiveness and relationship of the result from the two clothing emotion research methodswere compared and evaluated to construct an effective evaluation method of clothingemotional assessment based on the ERPs technology. The effectiveness of this method wasverified by the characteristics of extracted components and regions. It will aid to developmore accurate, convenient, efficient, and complete techniques for clothing emotion researchin the future. The whole study contained five parts.
The first step was to clearly define the concept of clothing emotion from the consumer’semotional approval of both functional and emotional aspects of clothing; to study theemotion-generation mechanism psychologically and physiologically; and to analyze themeasuring methods of clothing emotion combined with emotional components. The resultscould be used as the theoretical references for the following study on clothing emotions.The second step was to get the major consumers emotional selections of the designelements from110effective questionnaires. Four design models were clustered usingK-means algorithm of data mining. According to the eigenvalue of each cluster, the typicaldesign model of each cluster was defined as the positive representation of that cluster.The neutral and the negative representations of each cluster were defined using the medianand the maximum Euclidean distances between the design models and eigenvalue in thatcluster accordingly. A measured plane was constructed that contained three basic emotions(positive, neutral and negative) and comprised12design samples totally. This plane was usedas the stimulus for dimensionality cognitive evaluation and ERPs recording in order to furtheranalyze and verify its effectiveness.
The third step was to distinguish clothing emotion using dimension viewpoint, and todescribe the characteristics of emotional dimensions using cognitive tool.20subjects withdifferent professional background were invited to evaluate pleasure, arousal and dominanceof the constructed representative design samples using9-point scale. Emotional classificationfactors, the influence of gender factors and the relationship between three dimensions wereanalyzed using one-way analysis of variance, pared-samples T test, correlation analysis, et al.in SPSS. The statistic characteristics and significance of results were extracted and analyzed.According to the corresponding relations between level of pleasure and emotional categoriesin the measured plane, the accuracy of measured plane constructed by cluster algorithm andthe effectiveness of typical psychological measurement were evaluated separately.
Forth, the samples in the constructed measurement plane were used as the stimulus, andsuperposed presented through E-Prime software. Real-time brain potentials of8subjects wererecorded through ERPs technique. The early, middle and late components in left, middle,right, frontal, and central, potential were off-line analyzed using peak-amplitude andpeak-latency measurement in SCAN. Potential changes (amplitude and latency) and reactiveregion related to different emotional categories were extracted and recognized using SPSS.The corresponding relations between the results and emotional categories in the originalmeasurement plane, the accuracy of the measurement plane constructed by cluster algorithmwere analyzed, and the effectiveness of physiological measurement were evaluated, in orderto provide physiological characteristic references for emotional assessment of clothing.
Fifth，according to the research purpose, the conclusions were summarized through theanalysis of psychological experiment and physiological measurement. The innovations andvalues of this research were proposed. The advantages and limitations of this research and thedevelopment direction of ERPs technology used in emotional fashion design in the futurewere also discussed.
The conclusions were as following:
1. Different emotional categories constructed by clustering algorithm were significantlydifferent in the evaluation of emotional dimension. The results of dimensional cognition andemotional categories by clustered were consistent. It indicated the accuracy and effectivenessof the measurement plane constructed by cluster algorithm on one hand. On the other hand, italso proved the effectiveness of the SAM measurement used in clothing emotion researches.
2. Clothing emotions evoked scalp recording related ERPs. Results indicated that theprocess of emotional visual information could be obtained by analyzing the amplitude andlatency (time) of ERPs components. By analyzing typical ERPs components, the main effectof amplitude and latency between emotional categories was overall significant, whichindicated the significant difference between the processing time and the intension of threeemotions. Therefore, different emotions evoked by clothing could be accurately recognizedby distinguishing the characteristics of potential components and regions. Especially, theearly component of ERPs was considered as one of the main reference indexes for clothingemotional recognition, the middle and late components were considered as the assistedreference indexes. These were applied to effectively evaluate the preferable level andconsuming intention of consumers to clothing design scheme.
3. The emotional characteristics evoked by men’ casual jackets were as following:
(1) There was a positive correlation between pleasure and dominance, which indicatedthat higher pleasure was associated with stronger buying inclination. Therefore, valence couldbe used as the index to evaluate consumers’ preferences.
(2) The following component changes and response regions could be referred to when choosing brain potential characteristics as the index of emotional evaluation.
Early ERPs components indicated that the processing time of negative stimulation wasshort, which indicated that the negative stimulation drew priority attention. Arousal levelbegan to influence waveform at110ms after stimulus onset. For the P1, negative stimuluselicited larger amplitude, the latency and amplitude in occipital region was significant.Therefore, the representation in occipital region was the largest of P1. Early components weresignificant in primary visual cortex which took charge for visual information.
N2component was significantly changed in210-250ms after stimulus presented byanalyzing central and potential regions. The latency of negative stimulus was significantlyshortened, the amplitude was increased. Hemi-lateralization was not significant. There wasno difference between electrodes of P2. The amplitude of negative stimulus was larger thanpositive stimulus, potential region was significantly changed.
Negative stimulus evoked the largest P3amplitude, and the largest latency. The meanamplitude of potential region was the largest. The processing intensity of right hemispherewas larger than the left hemisphere and the midline.
The study and development of clothing emotion research using ERPs technology as thereference factors will improve and perfect the emotional fashion design system, and enhancethe design efficiency. It is significant in the application and development of Kansei design inthe emotional design field of clothing.
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