超薄羊绒衫强力和抗起毛起球性能及其改进的研究
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摘要
从毛衫产品的需求来看，随着全球气候的变暖，使毛衫产品向轻薄化方向发展，超薄精纺羊绒衫符合市场需求。从纤维的性能来看，山羊绒的细度多为13～16μm，细度不匀率小，平均长度在35～40mm，具有细、轻、柔软的特性，为超薄型羊绒产品的开发提供了可能。从产品的价值来看，羊绒资源稀有珍贵、价格高，轻薄化羊绒产品不但能够节约成本，而且能够体现羊绒衫的高档、精致和华贵，能够提高产品的附加值。超轻薄精纺羊绒衫以其轻薄、滑爽、细腻及优异的亲肤性能等独特风格而深受国外客户及世界顶级品牌设计师的青睐。
论文针对目前超薄羊绒针织产品的生产过程中存在着纱线的强力低、织物抗起毛起球性差等一系列的技术问题，从研究羊绒纤维的性能出发，研究羊绒衫生产工艺（原料及加工、染色、后整理）对羊绒纱强力影响的基础上，探讨改善超薄型羊绒衫强力和抗起毛起球性能的关键技术，使羊绒制品既保持优雅的天然风格，又提高其服用性能。
论文按照羊绒衫的生产工艺流程，主要做了以下四个方面的研究，得到了一系列的研究结果：
一、羊绒纤维的性能指标（短绒率）对产品生产工艺的影响。实验选取不同品质的高支羊绒纱，测试其经过不同方法（水浸泡、缩绒）处理后的拉伸性能。结果分析表明，短绒率（长度在15mm以下的纤维含量）对纱线的影响体现在二个方面：首先，短绒率对纱线制成率影响较大。高支羊绒纱截面内纤维根数较少（12.5tex羊绒纱断面内纤维根数约50根左右），短绒率直接影响纱线的制成率。其次，短绒率直接影响高支羊绒纱的强力（特别是水洗后强力）。山羊绒针织物在水洗缩绒过程，纤维吸水膨胀，在外力的作用下产生纤维间易于相对移动，没有被纱线握持紧的短纤维移动趋势更大，纤维相对移动的结果：长度较短的纤维会露出纱线表面，形成绒毛。实验表明：短绒率高的纱线，干强(184.6cN)即使能够达到编织要求，但由于缩绒水洗过程中短纤维的外移，导致纱线结构破坏，出现水洗破洞。
二、纱线的性能指标（捻度）对高支羊绒纱拉伸性能的影响。通过变捻系数实验，测试不同捻系数的羊绒纱拉伸性能，综合考虑羊绒织物起绒和高支纱对捻系数的要求，探讨适合高支羊绒纱的最佳捻系数。结果表明，11.8tex×2的高支羊绒纱的合适捻系数为310左右，断裂强力达到155cN,断裂伸长率7.77%，纱线拉伸性能达到优等品要求。
三、羊绒低温染色工艺的研究。羊绒纤维表面鳞片抱合紧密，染料分子不易进入纤维内部，常规染色在高温下进行。由于羊绒纤维对酸、碱、热极为敏感，染色过程中，受高温影响，纤维极易发生水解和二硫键断裂，导致纤维强力下降。高支羊绒纱的染色工艺，需选择性能优良的染料和助剂，进行低温染色。论文选择不同的低温染色助剂，采用酸性染料和毛用活性染料，对羊绒纱进行低温染色实验，探讨羊绒低温染色工艺。实验结果分析表明，采用合适的低温助剂，能够实现80℃低温染色。与常规（98℃）染色相比，低温染色后纱线强力保留率提高10%左右，K/S值及色牢度基本相同。酸性染料染色的工艺条件为：染料：X%owf、元明粉：5g/l、平平加:10g/l、低温助剂JL-D：1.0%owf、pH值5.0、浴比：1：50、温度：80℃、时间：60min；活性染料染色的工艺条件为：染料：X%owf、匀染剂Doregal WR：0.5g、低温助剂JL-D：2.0%owf、pH值5.0、浴比：1：50、温度：80℃、时间：60min。
四、超薄型羊绒衫抗起毛起球整理工艺研究。实验选用水溶性聚氨脂、阳离子聚酰胺类树脂对羊绒织物进行抗起毛起球整理，测试整理后织物抗起毛起球性以及服用性能，探讨超薄型羊绒衫的最佳抗起毛起球整理工艺。结果分析表明，水溶性阳离子聚酰胺类树脂和有机硅柔软剂对羊绒织物进行联合整理后，可较好的改善织物的抗起毛起球性能和服用舒适性能，织物强力保留率也较好。整理后羊绒织物的抗起毛起球性能从3级提高到4级，织物顶破强力保留率99.5%,悬垂系数和抗弯刚度分别下降29.5%和65%,对吸湿性能几乎无影响，手感好。
Demand from the cashmere sweater market perspective，with the global warminggrowing, making the cashmere production develop in the weight-lighter and thinnerdirection, so the super-thin cashmere sweater meet the market demand. From the viewof fiber character, the fineness of cashmere fiber range from13to16microns,unevenness of fineness is small, average length range from35to40millimeter, it hascharacters of fine and light and soft, make it possible to develop the super-thin product.From the view of the value of product, resource of cashmere is rare and price is high,super-thin cashmere not only can save the cost, but also can show the High-gradedelicate and showily, and improve the additional value. Super-thin cashmere is favoredby foreign customers and the tops designer from the world.
Paper according to the present super-thin cashmere knitting products has theproblem that there are a low yarn strength in the process of production, and a series oftechnical problems such as poor anti-pilling property, research start from theperformance of cashmere fiber, research on foundation of the cashmere productionprocess (raw materials and processing, dyeing and finishing) influence on yarn strength,this paper discusses the key technology of improving resistance strength andanti-pilling property of super-thin cashmere sweater, cashmere products not only keepthe elegant natural style, and also can improve wear ability of fabric.
Paper according to the process flow of cashmere production, mainly studying onthe following four aspects of research, got a series of research results:
Firstly, cashmere fiber performance index (short fiber ratio) influence on theproducing technique of cashmere products. The experiment choose different quality ofhigh count yarn, testing its tensile properties after having been finished by differentmethods (water immersion, milling). Results indicate that,short fiber ratio (content ofthe length of fiber below15millimeter) influence on the yarn reflected in two aspectsas following: first, short fiber ratio made great influence on the yarn yield. high count yarn has less fibers in the cross-section (12.5tex cashmere yarn only has50fiber in thecross-section),so short fiber ratio made directly influence on the yarn yield. Secondly,short fiber ratio made directly influence on the yarn strength(especially after themilling).in the process of milling cashmere fiber absorb water and swell， under thepressure of external forces, fibers is easy to move between each other, short fiber not behold tightly by the yarn would trend to move bigger distance, the results of the fiberrelative movement: Short length fiber would expose on the yarn surface, forming fluff.Experiments show that: yarn contains high short fiber ratio, even though its strength(184.6cN) can meet the demands of knitting, but because of short fibers moving outside,lead to structure of the yarn being broken, and fabric broken hole.
Second, the yarn performance index (twist) to high count cashmere yarn tensileperformance influence. Through the variable twist factor experiment, test tensileproperties of different twist factor of cashmere yarn, comprehensive consideration ofthe cashmere fabrics fluffing and low linear density cashmere yarn for the twist factorrequirements, Explore the best twist factor for low linear density cashmere yarn. Theresults show that, the best twist factor for cashmere yarn of11.8tex×2is around310,breaking strength155cN, elongation at7.77%, yarn tensile properties meet the classyarticle requirements.
Three, research on low temperature dyeing process of cashmere. Scales on thesurface of cashmere fiber held closely, the dye molecules go into fiber interior noteasily, the conventional dyeing at high temperatures. Because of cashmere fiber is verysensitive to acid, alkali, heat, In the process of dyeing, under the influence of hightemperature, fibers easily happened hydrolysis and two sulfur key rupture, and lead tofiber strength drop. the dyeing process of high count cashmere yarn，required tochoose good performance of dyes and additives，for low temperature dyeing. Paperchoose different types of low temperature dyeing auxiliaries, choose wool used of aciddyes and reactive dyes, doing low temperature of dyeing experiments of cashmere yarn,explore process of low temperature dyeing of cashmere. The analysis of experimentalresults show that, use appropriate low temperature additives, could achieve the80℃low temperature dyeing.Low temperature dyeing comparing with the conventional (98 ℃) dyeing, Yarn strength reserved rate increased around10%, K/S value and colorfastness keep the same level. Dyeing technology of acid dyes: dyestuff X%owf,Sodium Sulfate5g/l, Peregal10g/l, Low temperature agent JL-D1.0%owf, pH5.0,Bathratio1:50,Temperature80℃, time20min. Dyeing technology of reactive dyeing:dyestuff X%, levelling agent Doregal WR0.5gram, Low temperature agent JL-D2.0%owf, pH5.0,Bath ratio1:50,Temperature80℃, time20min.
Four,studying on the anti-pilling finishing process of super-thin cashmere. Theexperiment chooses water-soluble polyurethane, Cationic polyamide resin class to doanti-pilling finishing with cashmere fabric, test anti-pilling finishing property and wearability, Explore the best anti-pilling finishing process of super-thin cashmere. Resultsindicate that, water-soluble Cationic polyamide resin unite with organic silicon softenerdo finishing on cashmere fabrics, Can better improve anti-pilling property and wearcomfort performance of fabric, Fabric strength reserved rate is also good. Afterfinishing, the anti-pilling property of fabric increased from three levels to four levels,Fabric bursting strength reserved rate is99.5%, drape coefficient and flexural rigiditywere down by29.5%and65%, have almost no effect of Moisture absorptionperformance, and good hand feeling.
论文针对目前超薄羊绒针织产品的生产过程中存在着纱线的强力低、织物抗起毛起球性差等一系列的技术问题，从研究羊绒纤维的性能出发，研究羊绒衫生产工艺（原料及加工、染色、后整理）对羊绒纱强力影响的基础上，探讨改善超薄型羊绒衫强力和抗起毛起球性能的关键技术，使羊绒制品既保持优雅的天然风格，又提高其服用性能。
论文按照羊绒衫的生产工艺流程，主要做了以下四个方面的研究，得到了一系列的研究结果：
一、羊绒纤维的性能指标（短绒率）对产品生产工艺的影响。实验选取不同品质的高支羊绒纱，测试其经过不同方法（水浸泡、缩绒）处理后的拉伸性能。结果分析表明，短绒率（长度在15mm以下的纤维含量）对纱线的影响体现在二个方面：首先，短绒率对纱线制成率影响较大。高支羊绒纱截面内纤维根数较少（12.5tex羊绒纱断面内纤维根数约50根左右），短绒率直接影响纱线的制成率。其次，短绒率直接影响高支羊绒纱的强力（特别是水洗后强力）。山羊绒针织物在水洗缩绒过程，纤维吸水膨胀，在外力的作用下产生纤维间易于相对移动，没有被纱线握持紧的短纤维移动趋势更大，纤维相对移动的结果：长度较短的纤维会露出纱线表面，形成绒毛。实验表明：短绒率高的纱线，干强(184.6cN)即使能够达到编织要求，但由于缩绒水洗过程中短纤维的外移，导致纱线结构破坏，出现水洗破洞。
二、纱线的性能指标（捻度）对高支羊绒纱拉伸性能的影响。通过变捻系数实验，测试不同捻系数的羊绒纱拉伸性能，综合考虑羊绒织物起绒和高支纱对捻系数的要求，探讨适合高支羊绒纱的最佳捻系数。结果表明，11.8tex×2的高支羊绒纱的合适捻系数为310左右，断裂强力达到155cN,断裂伸长率7.77%，纱线拉伸性能达到优等品要求。
三、羊绒低温染色工艺的研究。羊绒纤维表面鳞片抱合紧密，染料分子不易进入纤维内部，常规染色在高温下进行。由于羊绒纤维对酸、碱、热极为敏感，染色过程中，受高温影响，纤维极易发生水解和二硫键断裂，导致纤维强力下降。高支羊绒纱的染色工艺，需选择性能优良的染料和助剂，进行低温染色。论文选择不同的低温染色助剂，采用酸性染料和毛用活性染料，对羊绒纱进行低温染色实验，探讨羊绒低温染色工艺。实验结果分析表明，采用合适的低温助剂，能够实现80℃低温染色。与常规（98℃）染色相比，低温染色后纱线强力保留率提高10%左右，K/S值及色牢度基本相同。酸性染料染色的工艺条件为：染料：X%owf、元明粉：5g/l、平平加:10g/l、低温助剂JL-D：1.0%owf、pH值5.0、浴比：1：50、温度：80℃、时间：60min；活性染料染色的工艺条件为：染料：X%owf、匀染剂Doregal WR：0.5g、低温助剂JL-D：2.0%owf、pH值5.0、浴比：1：50、温度：80℃、时间：60min。
四、超薄型羊绒衫抗起毛起球整理工艺研究。实验选用水溶性聚氨脂、阳离子聚酰胺类树脂对羊绒织物进行抗起毛起球整理，测试整理后织物抗起毛起球性以及服用性能，探讨超薄型羊绒衫的最佳抗起毛起球整理工艺。结果分析表明，水溶性阳离子聚酰胺类树脂和有机硅柔软剂对羊绒织物进行联合整理后，可较好的改善织物的抗起毛起球性能和服用舒适性能，织物强力保留率也较好。整理后羊绒织物的抗起毛起球性能从3级提高到4级，织物顶破强力保留率99.5%,悬垂系数和抗弯刚度分别下降29.5%和65%,对吸湿性能几乎无影响，手感好。
Demand from the cashmere sweater market perspective，with the global warminggrowing, making the cashmere production develop in the weight-lighter and thinnerdirection, so the super-thin cashmere sweater meet the market demand. From the viewof fiber character, the fineness of cashmere fiber range from13to16microns,unevenness of fineness is small, average length range from35to40millimeter, it hascharacters of fine and light and soft, make it possible to develop the super-thin product.From the view of the value of product, resource of cashmere is rare and price is high,super-thin cashmere not only can save the cost, but also can show the High-gradedelicate and showily, and improve the additional value. Super-thin cashmere is favoredby foreign customers and the tops designer from the world.
Paper according to the present super-thin cashmere knitting products has theproblem that there are a low yarn strength in the process of production, and a series oftechnical problems such as poor anti-pilling property, research start from theperformance of cashmere fiber, research on foundation of the cashmere productionprocess (raw materials and processing, dyeing and finishing) influence on yarn strength,this paper discusses the key technology of improving resistance strength andanti-pilling property of super-thin cashmere sweater, cashmere products not only keepthe elegant natural style, and also can improve wear ability of fabric.
Paper according to the process flow of cashmere production, mainly studying onthe following four aspects of research, got a series of research results:
Firstly, cashmere fiber performance index (short fiber ratio) influence on theproducing technique of cashmere products. The experiment choose different quality ofhigh count yarn, testing its tensile properties after having been finished by differentmethods (water immersion, milling). Results indicate that,short fiber ratio (content ofthe length of fiber below15millimeter) influence on the yarn reflected in two aspectsas following: first, short fiber ratio made great influence on the yarn yield. high count yarn has less fibers in the cross-section (12.5tex cashmere yarn only has50fiber in thecross-section),so short fiber ratio made directly influence on the yarn yield. Secondly,short fiber ratio made directly influence on the yarn strength(especially after themilling).in the process of milling cashmere fiber absorb water and swell， under thepressure of external forces, fibers is easy to move between each other, short fiber not behold tightly by the yarn would trend to move bigger distance, the results of the fiberrelative movement: Short length fiber would expose on the yarn surface, forming fluff.Experiments show that: yarn contains high short fiber ratio, even though its strength(184.6cN) can meet the demands of knitting, but because of short fibers moving outside,lead to structure of the yarn being broken, and fabric broken hole.
Second, the yarn performance index (twist) to high count cashmere yarn tensileperformance influence. Through the variable twist factor experiment, test tensileproperties of different twist factor of cashmere yarn, comprehensive consideration ofthe cashmere fabrics fluffing and low linear density cashmere yarn for the twist factorrequirements, Explore the best twist factor for low linear density cashmere yarn. Theresults show that, the best twist factor for cashmere yarn of11.8tex×2is around310,breaking strength155cN, elongation at7.77%, yarn tensile properties meet the classyarticle requirements.
Three, research on low temperature dyeing process of cashmere. Scales on thesurface of cashmere fiber held closely, the dye molecules go into fiber interior noteasily, the conventional dyeing at high temperatures. Because of cashmere fiber is verysensitive to acid, alkali, heat, In the process of dyeing, under the influence of hightemperature, fibers easily happened hydrolysis and two sulfur key rupture, and lead tofiber strength drop. the dyeing process of high count cashmere yarn，required tochoose good performance of dyes and additives，for low temperature dyeing. Paperchoose different types of low temperature dyeing auxiliaries, choose wool used of aciddyes and reactive dyes, doing low temperature of dyeing experiments of cashmere yarn,explore process of low temperature dyeing of cashmere. The analysis of experimentalresults show that, use appropriate low temperature additives, could achieve the80℃low temperature dyeing.Low temperature dyeing comparing with the conventional (98 ℃) dyeing, Yarn strength reserved rate increased around10%, K/S value and colorfastness keep the same level. Dyeing technology of acid dyes: dyestuff X%owf,Sodium Sulfate5g/l, Peregal10g/l, Low temperature agent JL-D1.0%owf, pH5.0,Bathratio1:50,Temperature80℃, time20min. Dyeing technology of reactive dyeing:dyestuff X%, levelling agent Doregal WR0.5gram, Low temperature agent JL-D2.0%owf, pH5.0,Bath ratio1:50,Temperature80℃, time20min.
Four,studying on the anti-pilling finishing process of super-thin cashmere. Theexperiment chooses water-soluble polyurethane, Cationic polyamide resin class to doanti-pilling finishing with cashmere fabric, test anti-pilling finishing property and wearability, Explore the best anti-pilling finishing process of super-thin cashmere. Resultsindicate that, water-soluble Cationic polyamide resin unite with organic silicon softenerdo finishing on cashmere fabrics, Can better improve anti-pilling property and wearcomfort performance of fabric, Fabric strength reserved rate is also good. Afterfinishing, the anti-pilling property of fabric increased from three levels to four levels,Fabric bursting strength reserved rate is99.5%, drape coefficient and flexural rigiditywere down by29.5%and65%, have almost no effect of Moisture absorptionperformance, and good hand feeling.
引文
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[44]李小平.漂白和染色加工对羊绒纤维的损伤及对后道工序的影响[C].第26届全国毛纺年会论文集,164-168.
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[50]陈美云,袁德宏.羊毛乙醇胺预处理及其染色性能[J].印染,2006(11):11-14.
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