基于EMTM的三维个体服装原型的研究与实现
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摘要
电子化量身定制服装EMTM(Electronic Made to Measure)是21世纪兴起的一种服装生产方式,它利用现代三维人体扫描技术、计算机技术和网络技术将服装生产中的人体建模、体型分析、人体测量、服装设计、款式选择、服装定购、服装生产等各个环节有机地结合起来,实现高效快捷的数字化服装生产。它已成为国内外学术界、企业界研究的焦点和热点,并将成为现代服装生产的主要方式。
     在本课题中,三维个体服装是指虚拟空间里的个性化服装衣片,即个性化数字服装衣片。个性化数字服装衣片的生成是EMTM系统的核心功能,包括数字服装立体构型的生成以及二维数字服装衣片的生成两部分。数字服装立体构型的生成是建立人体与服装关系的枢纽,将服装立体构型展开成二维衣片是EMTM系统与服装CAD的契合点,是EMTM系统服务于服装制造的必要步骤。对数字服装人体进行服装参数提取是个性化数字服装衣片生成的前提工作;数字服装衣片生成后,对服装的立体构型修改可以得到款式各异的服装。数字服装衣片的生成以及它的前提和后续工作都是EMTM系统中的重要研究内容。
     本文以最简单的服装款式,服装原型的立体构型为研究对象,对三维个体服装原型,即数字服装原型衣片的生成流程进行设计,对服装原型立体构型及二维数字服装原型衣片的自动生成,以及其前提工作数字服装人体服装参数提取进行了研究,并对其后续工作服装立体构型的修改作出了讨论。服装原型是服装款式纸样中最基本的纸样,是服装设计制造的基础。
     在数字服装原型衣片的生成过程中,本文侧重分析与解决了以下关键技术:1.本文将服装工艺学引入EMTM研究领域,设计了数字服装衣片的生成流程,在虚拟空间中实现了服装“立体一平面一立体”的形成过程;2.通过研究数字服装人体与真实人体的映射关系,基于数字服装人体测量技术定位了数字服装人体上的服装参数;3.进一步研究了空隙量模型,并按空隙量模型法自动生成数字服装原型衣片的立体构型;4.引入基于弹簧一质点模型的三维曲面展开方法生成个性化二维服装原型衣片。本文为EMTM系统的研究和实现提供了理论和技术基础。
Electronic Made to Measure is a new way of clothing production in the 21st century.EMTM utilizes 3D body scanning technology,computer technology and network technology to combine with body model building,body shape analysis, body measuring,clothing design,style choice,clothing order and clothing production.It will realize the convenient and swift industry chain.It has become the research focus and hotspot in the field of academe and business and will be the main means of garment producing.
     In this article,3D individual garment is the digital individual garment.The manufacturing of digital garment slices according to the individual figure characteristic is the core function of an EMTM system.The manufacturing of digital garment slices includes the manufacturing of 3D and 2D digital garment slices.3D garment slices is the pivot of human body and garment;the flatting of 3D garment to 2D slices is the connection of EMTM and garment CAD,as is an indispensable step that EMTM system to be used in garment manufacturing.For the manufacturing of digital garment slices,the key garment parameters' acquirement is necessary,after manufacturing,various garment patterns could be aquired by modifying the 3D garment slices.The manufacturing of digital garment slices is the important research points of EMTM system.
     This paper regards "The key technology research of Electronic Made to Measure with China and Europe cooperation" as the background of studying,mainly researches in 3D and 2D digital garment prototype's automatic generation,and the acquirement of the key garment parameters,after them,this paper discusses the modifying of the 3D garment prototype.Garment prototype is the basic pattern of the garment design,as is the base of the garment design and manufacture.
     In the digital garment prototype generating process,this paper puts emphasis on analyzing and solving the following key technologies:1.this paper introduces garment craft into EMTM,2.garment parameters are aquired by mapping of digital garment human body to the reality human body which is based on the digital garment human body measuring technology;according to the garment parameters and the Interspace Model,3.the Interspace Model is further researched,and the 3D garment prototype slices are automaticly generated by it;4.3D garment prototype slices based on spring-mass system are flattened by 3D surface flattening method. This paper makes a further research in digital garment slices generation and garment design.It provides theory and technology to EMTM system.
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