女装圆度体型系列基本纸样技术研究
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摘要
随着目前服装业“以人为本”的设计理念日益盛行，服装纸样设计也应当迎合消费者的个性需要。本课题主要研究在服装工业生产中细化纸样制作，为不同体型的消费者提供相应纸样的技术。这项技术可以提高工业纸样与人体的符合度，进而提高服装产品的内在质量，使其更适合消费者的体型需要，将“以人为本”的设计思想付诸实践。
本课题的技术路线是：从纸样设计入手，以国家服装号型标准作为实际数据来源，以人体解剖理论作为理论依据，寻找人体体型变化规律，总结出具有典型代表性的圆度体型系列——扁体型、圆体型及介于两者之间的中间体型。然后参考国内外相关基本纸样资料进行分析，为这三种体型分别设计出相应的基本纸样，构成一个体型系列。在工业生产中，可以利用这一体型系列基本纸样，设计出系列服装纸样，适应不同体型人群的需要。有了体型系列基本纸样的技术支持，服装设计师可以设计适合不同体型的服装款式、风格。这一体型系列基本纸样理论改变了原来工业生产中单一体型的制板方式，为不同体型人群提供了“个性化”的服务。同时，这一理论适合工业化大规模生产，具有广阔的发展前途。
按照不同体型制作纸样是服装个性化产品开发的趋势所在，体型系列基本纸样技术为这一趋势在工业生产中的实现提供了理论和技术支持。同时，这项技术的应用使消费者能够买到适合自身体型的服装，提高了人们的着装质量。此外，体型系列基本纸样技术不仅发展和完善了我国纸样设计理论，而且与国外系列纸样技术研究相接轨，是纸样理论发展的重要内容。这一技术在生产中的应用提高了服装产品的内在质量，提升服装品牌的内涵，增长企业竞争力，为实现我国服装产业从粗放式经营向集约式经营转变作了技术性的探索。
Along with the popularity of the design principle of " personality" in current clothing industry, clothing pattern design should also cater to the consumer's characteristic demand.This subject mainly researches the subdivision of the pattern design procedure in the clothing manufacture, provides patterns for different types of figure of the consumer .This technique can increase the matching degree of industry pattern and human body, and increase the inside quantity of the clothing product,it can cater to the consumer's personal figure demand, carry out the idea of personality".
Technique route of the subject is: Commences from the pattern design,gets the actual data from the state's size and model standard of clothing ,gets the theoretical foundation from the theory of human anatomy, and looks for the changing regulation of human figure, then sums up the representative circle degree figure series- flat figure, circular figure and figure type lies in the middle of the two.Then consults the related basic pattern data from home and abroad and analyse, designs slopers for these three types of figure respectively, constitute a type series.In the industrial manufacture, we can make use of the sloper series , and design the series clothing patterns to meet the demand of different types of figure .Use this series slopers as technique support,designers can make out different styles and manners for different figures.The series sloper theory would change the one figure pattern making method in clothing industry produce nowaday, and provides the " personality " service for differ
ent type of figures .At the same time, this theory could promote large-scale production of industrialization , it will have a good prospect.
Making pattern according to different types of figure is a trend in the "personal" product exploitation in the clothing industry, this figure sloper series provide theoretical and technical support to meet this tendency.At
the same time, the application of this technique make consumer choose suitable type of clothing for her own figure type, and promote the dressing quality of people.In addition, the figure series sloper technique not only perfect our country pattern design theories, but also connect with the research of series pattern technique abroad , and it is an important part of the development of pattern making theories.The application of this technique in the manufacture could increase the inside quantity of the clothing product, and promote the inside strain of the clothing brand, increase the business enterprise competition ability, It makes a technical research to achieve the escalation of our clothing industry from coarse management to fine management.
本课题的技术路线是：从纸样设计入手，以国家服装号型标准作为实际数据来源，以人体解剖理论作为理论依据，寻找人体体型变化规律，总结出具有典型代表性的圆度体型系列——扁体型、圆体型及介于两者之间的中间体型。然后参考国内外相关基本纸样资料进行分析，为这三种体型分别设计出相应的基本纸样，构成一个体型系列。在工业生产中，可以利用这一体型系列基本纸样，设计出系列服装纸样，适应不同体型人群的需要。有了体型系列基本纸样的技术支持，服装设计师可以设计适合不同体型的服装款式、风格。这一体型系列基本纸样理论改变了原来工业生产中单一体型的制板方式，为不同体型人群提供了“个性化”的服务。同时，这一理论适合工业化大规模生产，具有广阔的发展前途。
按照不同体型制作纸样是服装个性化产品开发的趋势所在，体型系列基本纸样技术为这一趋势在工业生产中的实现提供了理论和技术支持。同时，这项技术的应用使消费者能够买到适合自身体型的服装，提高了人们的着装质量。此外，体型系列基本纸样技术不仅发展和完善了我国纸样设计理论，而且与国外系列纸样技术研究相接轨，是纸样理论发展的重要内容。这一技术在生产中的应用提高了服装产品的内在质量，提升服装品牌的内涵，增长企业竞争力，为实现我国服装产业从粗放式经营向集约式经营转变作了技术性的探索。
Along with the popularity of the design principle of " personality" in current clothing industry, clothing pattern design should also cater to the consumer's characteristic demand.This subject mainly researches the subdivision of the pattern design procedure in the clothing manufacture, provides patterns for different types of figure of the consumer .This technique can increase the matching degree of industry pattern and human body, and increase the inside quantity of the clothing product,it can cater to the consumer's personal figure demand, carry out the idea of personality".
Technique route of the subject is: Commences from the pattern design,gets the actual data from the state's size and model standard of clothing ,gets the theoretical foundation from the theory of human anatomy, and looks for the changing regulation of human figure, then sums up the representative circle degree figure series- flat figure, circular figure and figure type lies in the middle of the two.Then consults the related basic pattern data from home and abroad and analyse, designs slopers for these three types of figure respectively, constitute a type series.In the industrial manufacture, we can make use of the sloper series , and design the series clothing patterns to meet the demand of different types of figure .Use this series slopers as technique support,designers can make out different styles and manners for different figures.The series sloper theory would change the one figure pattern making method in clothing industry produce nowaday, and provides the " personality " service for differ
ent type of figures .At the same time, this theory could promote large-scale production of industrialization , it will have a good prospect.
Making pattern according to different types of figure is a trend in the "personal" product exploitation in the clothing industry, this figure sloper series provide theoretical and technical support to meet this tendency.At
the same time, the application of this technique make consumer choose suitable type of clothing for her own figure type, and promote the dressing quality of people.In addition, the figure series sloper technique not only perfect our country pattern design theories, but also connect with the research of series pattern technique abroad , and it is an important part of the development of pattern making theories.The application of this technique in the manufacture could increase the inside quantity of the clothing product, and promote the inside strain of the clothing brand, increase the business enterprise competition ability, It makes a technical research to achieve the escalation of our clothing industry from coarse management to fine management.
引文
1．刘瑞璞刘维和 女装纸样设计原理与技巧 中国纺织出版社 1991．12
2．刘瑞璞 成衣系列产品设计及其纸样技术 中国纺织出版社 1998．12
3．(日)文化服装学院编 文化服装讲座西装篇 中国轻工业出版社 1998．8
4．张文斌等 服装工艺学 结构设计分册 纺织工业出版社 1990．12
5．中泽愈 人体与服装 中国纺织出版社 2000．4
6．方彰林 姜士正 人体美学 北京出版社 2000．6
7．李景凯 人体造形解剖学 人民美术出版社 1987．2
8．许毓玲 沈志渔 服装工业技术标准 经济管理出版社 1998．1
9．张文斌 服装结构设计与疵病补正技术 中国纺织出版社 1995．4
10．Stella Chen 世界时装与名设计师——意大利卷(上)、(下) 中国轻工业出版社 2000．2
11．姜瑞明 钱竟芳 大批量定制的未来 中国服装 中国服装杂志社 2002．1
12．严先溥 消费：为品牌导航 中国服装 中国服装杂志社 2002．8
13．杜丽萍 品牌修炼中国服装 中国服装杂志社 2002．4
14．张文斌 张渭源 中国服装原型——东华原型结构设计原理和技术 东华大学学报 2002．6
15．(日)三吉满智子 服装造型学理论编Ⅰ 文化学园教科书出版部 2000．7
16．(日)文化服装学院编 服饰造型基础 文化服装学院教科书出版部 2000．4
17．(日)松山容子衣服制作科学 建帛社 2001
18. Winifred Aldrich Metric Pattern Cutting Oxford:Blackwell Scientific Publications 1990
19. Elizabeth G.Liechty, Della N. Pottberg, Judith A.Rasband Fitting&Pattern Alteration:A Multi-Method Approach Fairchild Publication 1986
20. Ernestine Kopp, Vittorina Rolfo, Beatrice Zelin, Lee Gross How to Draft Basic Patterns Fairchild Publications,Inc. 1968
21. Rikke Andersen Tall&Terrific Doubleday&Company, Inc, 1985
2．刘瑞璞 成衣系列产品设计及其纸样技术 中国纺织出版社 1998．12
3．(日)文化服装学院编 文化服装讲座西装篇 中国轻工业出版社 1998．8
4．张文斌等 服装工艺学 结构设计分册 纺织工业出版社 1990．12
5．中泽愈 人体与服装 中国纺织出版社 2000．4
6．方彰林 姜士正 人体美学 北京出版社 2000．6
7．李景凯 人体造形解剖学 人民美术出版社 1987．2
8．许毓玲 沈志渔 服装工业技术标准 经济管理出版社 1998．1
9．张文斌 服装结构设计与疵病补正技术 中国纺织出版社 1995．4
10．Stella Chen 世界时装与名设计师——意大利卷(上)、(下) 中国轻工业出版社 2000．2
11．姜瑞明 钱竟芳 大批量定制的未来 中国服装 中国服装杂志社 2002．1
12．严先溥 消费：为品牌导航 中国服装 中国服装杂志社 2002．8
13．杜丽萍 品牌修炼中国服装 中国服装杂志社 2002．4
14．张文斌 张渭源 中国服装原型——东华原型结构设计原理和技术 东华大学学报 2002．6
15．(日)三吉满智子 服装造型学理论编Ⅰ 文化学园教科书出版部 2000．7
16．(日)文化服装学院编 服饰造型基础 文化服装学院教科书出版部 2000．4
17．(日)松山容子衣服制作科学 建帛社 2001
18. Winifred Aldrich Metric Pattern Cutting Oxford:Blackwell Scientific Publications 1990
19. Elizabeth G.Liechty, Della N. Pottberg, Judith A.Rasband Fitting&Pattern Alteration:A Multi-Method Approach Fairchild Publication 1986
20. Ernestine Kopp, Vittorina Rolfo, Beatrice Zelin, Lee Gross How to Draft Basic Patterns Fairchild Publications,Inc. 1968
21. Rikke Andersen Tall&Terrific Doubleday&Company, Inc, 1985