面向服装CAD的裁片设计技术研究与实现
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摘要
随着服装业对服装CAD要求的不断提高，二维服装CAD已经不能满足人们对服装CAD在直观性、立体感和穿着效果显示上的要求。三维服装CAD的研究工作引起了很多学者的关注和重视，并取得了巨大的成就。他们在三维人体测量、三维人体建模、三维服装设计、三维裁片展开等领域做了大量的研究并取得了一定的成果。然而服装CAD的设计结果只有通过裁片设计，才能用于生产，并缝制成服装。因此，在三维服装CAD系统的开发和应用中，我们不仅要研究服装CAD相关的三维设计，而且要研究面向三维服装CAD的裁片设计技术。
基于以上思想和三维服装CAD中用户对裁片设计的需求，本文提出了三维服装CAD的裁片设计流程。在以往的裁片设计中，加入了裁片设计质量预测与评估、考虑织物特性的裁片设计结果调整及面向服装工艺的裁片缝边设计，使裁片设计更加完整和准确，同时提高了裁片设计过程中的交互性。
本文第二章是裁片设计的基础，主要简单介绍了三维服装CAD中裁片获取方法，是本文研究工作的基础。虽然三维曲面展开技术尽量满足以下两个要求：裁片面积在展开前后尽量保持不变；裁片的边界长度及夹角关系在展开前后尽量保持不变，但一般产品设计中三维曲面展开为二维曲面中的变形是必然存在的。本文通过裁片展开前后的变形情况，来分析裁片设计中所产生的应力，并将此显示出来，作为用户判断裁片设计结果是否正确的参考依据。三维裁片展开为二维裁片时，并没有考虑织物的特性，这使得裁片设计结果与实际结果存在着一定的误差，本文在展开裁片上，加入织物特性，对裁片设计结果进行调整，得到比较符合真实情况的裁片。经过以上两个步骤设计的裁片，是设计成熟的裁片，但在投入生产之前还需要对其进行加缝边的设计。本文第五章详细介绍了缝边的设计方法及缝边的计算机实现方法。
基于上述研究工作，论文第六章介绍了LookStailorX系统框架，并对系统开发环境作简要介绍，同时详细介绍了上述研究工作在该系统中的应用。
最后，在第七章中总结了本文的工作，并对项目课题研究的发展前景从技术上和应用上作了展望。
Along with the growth of rag trade asking for high quality GCAD(Garment CAD), two-dimensional GCAD has been out of date, since his limitation in intuition, third dimension and dressing vision. Three-dimensional GCAD has been arose many researcher's attention and recognition, and they acquired enormous achievement. They have gave a great deal of research to these domain: three-dimensional body measure, three-dimensional body modeling, three-dimensional garment design, three-dimensional freeform surface flattening and so on, and have gained much achievement. But, only through pattern the design of GCAD can apply to manufacture and turn into garment. Thus, along with the coming of the implement and application period, we should go out of think 3-D Garment design only, but go into think 3-D design and pattern design base on 3-D Garment design.
Based on these thinking and user's needs for pattern design, this paper gives a new pattern design flow for 3-D GCAD. Add forecasting and evaluating technique for pattern quality, adjust pattern design result based on fabric characteristics technique, pattern hemming-stitch technique to old pattern design, make pattern design more integrity and right, improve the alternation of garment design.
Second chapter introduces the method to get pattern in 3-D GCAD briefly, which is the base of pattern design. Although the flattening of 3-D garment freeform surface should satisfy two conditions as follow: the consistency of pattern area and pattern's edge or angle before and after flattening, distortion of pattern after flattening is exist certainly. Through the distortion, this paper analyzes the stress caught by flattening in pattern design, and shows the result in order to give opinion if the design of pattern is right or not. During the flattening, no fabric characteristic was considered, which makes the difference between design result and real result. This paper add fabric characteristic to flattened pattern to adjust pattern design result. Here we get a right designed pattern after adjust, but we should add seam boundary to the pattern before it was produced. In chapter 5, the paper introduces
the design method and computer application particularly.
Based on these work, introduces the system of LookStailorX and the application environment in chapter 6. At the same time, introduces the application of these research work in this system particularly. At last, makes a conclusion to the research work and gives a prospects from the perspectives of technology and application, of this project.
基于以上思想和三维服装CAD中用户对裁片设计的需求，本文提出了三维服装CAD的裁片设计流程。在以往的裁片设计中，加入了裁片设计质量预测与评估、考虑织物特性的裁片设计结果调整及面向服装工艺的裁片缝边设计，使裁片设计更加完整和准确，同时提高了裁片设计过程中的交互性。
本文第二章是裁片设计的基础，主要简单介绍了三维服装CAD中裁片获取方法，是本文研究工作的基础。虽然三维曲面展开技术尽量满足以下两个要求：裁片面积在展开前后尽量保持不变；裁片的边界长度及夹角关系在展开前后尽量保持不变，但一般产品设计中三维曲面展开为二维曲面中的变形是必然存在的。本文通过裁片展开前后的变形情况，来分析裁片设计中所产生的应力，并将此显示出来，作为用户判断裁片设计结果是否正确的参考依据。三维裁片展开为二维裁片时，并没有考虑织物的特性，这使得裁片设计结果与实际结果存在着一定的误差，本文在展开裁片上，加入织物特性，对裁片设计结果进行调整，得到比较符合真实情况的裁片。经过以上两个步骤设计的裁片，是设计成熟的裁片，但在投入生产之前还需要对其进行加缝边的设计。本文第五章详细介绍了缝边的设计方法及缝边的计算机实现方法。
基于上述研究工作，论文第六章介绍了LookStailorX系统框架，并对系统开发环境作简要介绍，同时详细介绍了上述研究工作在该系统中的应用。
最后，在第七章中总结了本文的工作，并对项目课题研究的发展前景从技术上和应用上作了展望。
Along with the growth of rag trade asking for high quality GCAD(Garment CAD), two-dimensional GCAD has been out of date, since his limitation in intuition, third dimension and dressing vision. Three-dimensional GCAD has been arose many researcher's attention and recognition, and they acquired enormous achievement. They have gave a great deal of research to these domain: three-dimensional body measure, three-dimensional body modeling, three-dimensional garment design, three-dimensional freeform surface flattening and so on, and have gained much achievement. But, only through pattern the design of GCAD can apply to manufacture and turn into garment. Thus, along with the coming of the implement and application period, we should go out of think 3-D Garment design only, but go into think 3-D design and pattern design base on 3-D Garment design.
Based on these thinking and user's needs for pattern design, this paper gives a new pattern design flow for 3-D GCAD. Add forecasting and evaluating technique for pattern quality, adjust pattern design result based on fabric characteristics technique, pattern hemming-stitch technique to old pattern design, make pattern design more integrity and right, improve the alternation of garment design.
Second chapter introduces the method to get pattern in 3-D GCAD briefly, which is the base of pattern design. Although the flattening of 3-D garment freeform surface should satisfy two conditions as follow: the consistency of pattern area and pattern's edge or angle before and after flattening, distortion of pattern after flattening is exist certainly. Through the distortion, this paper analyzes the stress caught by flattening in pattern design, and shows the result in order to give opinion if the design of pattern is right or not. During the flattening, no fabric characteristic was considered, which makes the difference between design result and real result. This paper add fabric characteristic to flattened pattern to adjust pattern design result. Here we get a right designed pattern after adjust, but we should add seam boundary to the pattern before it was produced. In chapter 5, the paper introduces
the design method and computer application particularly.
Based on these work, introduces the system of LookStailorX and the application environment in chapter 6. At the same time, introduces the application of these research work in this system particularly. At last, makes a conclusion to the research work and gives a prospects from the perspectives of technology and application, of this project.
引文
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[25]．李基拓，陆国栋，张东亮．基于切割路径树的三角化网格曲面自动切割算法，浙江大学学报(工学版)，2006，40(8)：1320—1326．
[26]．李基拓，陆国栋．基于质点-弹簧模型的三角化网格曲面简化优化算法．计算机辅助设计与图形学学报，2006，18(3)：426-432．
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[2]．蒋红英．CAD技术在国内服装业中的应用及其发展趋势．鹭江职业大学学报．2002，1(10)．
[3]．李旭．服装造型及衣片展开CAD技术的探讨．浙江工程学院学报，2002，19(3)：175-180．
[4]．张佰钧．计算机辅助纸样设计的算法原理与实现．中国纺织大学学报，1991，17(3)：38-46．
[5]. M Slater. A top down method for interactive drawing. Computer Graphics Forum, 1988, 7 (4):324-329.
[6]．刘卉．基于数据库的开放式服装制版系统[D]．西安：西北纺织工学院，1997．
[7]. Cao Yuan, Xu Hui-Ping, et al. The mathematical model of grading system of garment CAD. Journal of Fudan University.
[8]. Huang Wen-Lan, Wang Yu, et al. An interactive sliding algorithm for clothing parts automatic arrangement in garment. CAD. Journal of Huazhong University of Science &Techno logy, 1994, 22 (6):76-79.
[9]．张颖，邹奉元．二维人体测量技术的原理与应用．浙江工程学院学报，2003．20(4)：310-314．
[10]. B K Hinds, J McCartney. Interactive garment design. Visual Computer, 1990, 6:53-61.
[11]. B K Hinds, J McCartney, et al. Pattern development for 3Dsurfaces. Computer Aided Design, 1991,23 (8):583-592.
[12]. H Okabe, H Imaoka, et al. Three dimensional apparel CAD system. Computer Graphics, 1992, 26 (2):105-110.
[13]．李光明，田捷，何晖光等．基于距离均衡化的网格平滑算法．计算机辅助设计与图形学学报，2002，14(9)：820～823．
[14]. Ying Yang, N M Thalmann, et al. Three dimensional garment design and animation, a new design tool for the garment industry. Computers in Industry, 1992, 19: 185-191.
[15]. M Carignan, Y Yang, N M Thalmann, et al. Dressing animated synthetic actors with complex deformable clothes. Computer Graphics, 1992, 26 (2):99-104.
[16]. P Volino, N M Thalmann, et al. An evolving system for simulating clothes on virtual actors. IEEE Computer Graphics and Applications, 1996, 16(5):42-51.
[17]．樊劲，周济，王启付，袁铭辉．基于弹簧质点模型的二维／三维映射算法．软件学报，1999，10(2)：140—148．
[18]．翟红英，杨钦．服装样片二、三维转换算法．工程图学学报，2002(4)：15—19．
[19]．杨继新，刘健，肖正扬，王忠．复杂曲面的可展化及其展开方法．机械科学与技术，2001，20(7)：520—521．
[20]．王媚．面向服装CAD的三维人体建模与变形技术研究及实现[D]．杭州：浙江大学，2006．
[21]．徐文鹏．基于人体特征的服装CAD参数化技术研究与应用[D]．杭州：浙江大学，2004：24-39．
[22]．许鹏．基于人台特征的服装变形与碰撞检测技术研究[D]．杭州：浙江大学，2005：24-50．
[23]. Li Jituo, Zhang Dongliang, Lu Guodong, et al. Flattening triangulated surface using a mass-spring model, International Journal of Advanced Manufacturing Technology, 2005, 25(1-2):108-117.
[24]. Li Jituo, Lu Guodong, Zhang Dongliang, et al. Searching a 3D region for surface trimming, International Journal of Advanced Manufacturing Technology, 2005:373-379.
[25]．李基拓，陆国栋，张东亮．基于切割路径树的三角化网格曲面自动切割算法，浙江大学学报(工学版)，2006，40(8)：1320—1326．
[26]．李基拓，陆国栋．基于质点-弹簧模型的三角化网格曲面简化优化算法．计算机辅助设计与图形学学报，2006，18(3)：426-432．
[27]．褚莲娣，陆国栋，李基拓．三维曲面展开算法在玩具设计中的应用．计算机应用．2004，24(6)：112
[28]．陆国栋，张君，李基拓，三角化网格曲面切割中桥边和省道处理技术及其应用，工程设计学报，2006，13(3)：179-184．
[29]．龚勤理．服装褶皱的设计应用及其审美特征．丝绸．2006，8：11-13
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