国际时装（高级成衣女装）品牌色彩风格研究
摘要
进入新世纪以来,随着中国经济的持续发展,服装市场呈现出快速发展的良好趋势:消费者购买力增强、本土服装设计师与本土服装品牌辈出……中国的服装设计正迎来明媚灿烂的春天。但是,当我们游走在各式各样服装店内甄选物品时便会发现:由来已久的“拿来主义”也随着服装业的发展愈演愈烈。越来越多设计师和企业将抄袭国外优秀服装设计作品作为自身发展的原动力。这样的做法无疑是对中国设计、中国创意的伤害。因此,为了引导广大服装企业和服装设计师从“借用”走向借鉴、参考、灵活运用上来,笔者从服装重要的构成要素之一的色彩入手,对Giorgio Armani、Christian Dior、Louis Vuitton、Gucci、Versace五大国际知名品牌近三年(2009-2011)发布会所涉及到的高级成衣色彩做了科学、系统的统计与研究。旨在深入细致地分析、整理、归纳出研究对象运用色彩的基本思路和方法,特别是透过宏观、微观两个角度阐释了优秀服装色彩设计需要遵循的一般规律,从而为企业制定产品基本色彩构成比例与个性化色彩流行趋势研发计划以及服装品牌、设计师的色彩使用提供有价值的参考。
China's clothing market has shown a rapid development in this new century. For examples: the increasing of consumer purchasing power, the bloom of local fashion designers and local fashion enterprises and the concern of global trend .they can support that China's clothing market is in the ascendant . However, we will find there’s so much plagiarism which behavior no doubt hurts China’s creative ability when we stroll in some fashion shops. Therefore , in order to guide the majority of clothing companies and fashion designers leave the "borrowed" to learn, the author choose color which is the most important element of cloths to do a thorough and careful research of Pro-ta-Porter belong to Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Versace(lasting 3years:2009-2011).This study not only used the international advanced NCS natural color system, but also reference to a large number of information related to fashion design and trend. The author consistently strives to generalize the basic methods of outstanding color design in an intensive mode.
China's clothing market has shown a rapid development in this new century. For examples: the increasing of consumer purchasing power, the bloom of local fashion designers and local fashion enterprises and the concern of global trend .they can support that China's clothing market is in the ascendant . However, we will find there’s so much plagiarism which behavior no doubt hurts China’s creative ability when we stroll in some fashion shops. Therefore , in order to guide the majority of clothing companies and fashion designers leave the "borrowed" to learn, the author choose color which is the most important element of cloths to do a thorough and careful research of Pro-ta-Porter belong to Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Versace(lasting 3years:2009-2011).This study not only used the international advanced NCS natural color system, but also reference to a large number of information related to fashion design and trend. The author consistently strives to generalize the basic methods of outstanding color design in an intensive mode.
引文
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22.北京服装学院色彩研究中心网站[OL].http://www. colorchina.net.cn/
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[8]海勒.色彩的性格[M].吴彤.北京:中央编译出版社,2008:72-73
1.崔唯,庞绮.服装色彩设计[M].北京:中国青年出版社,2008
2.早坂优子.配色宝典[M].刘彤扬.北京:中国青年出版社,2008
3.崔京源.红色范思哲灰色阿玛尼:跟大师学色彩搭配[M].傅文慧.北京:中国纺织出版社,2009:247-288
4.崔唯,谭活能.色彩构成[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2006
5.黄元庆.服装色彩学[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2000
6.黄国松.色彩设计学[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2001
7.雍自鸿.色彩构成基础[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2008:33-60
8.特蕾西·黛安,汤姆·卡斯迪.色彩预测与服装流行[M].李莉婷,欧阳琦.北京:中国纺织出版社,2007:75-80
9. Rita Perna.流行色预测[M].李宏伟.北京:中国纺织出版社,2008:45-90
10.陈燕琳,袁公任.服装色彩与材质设计[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2008:60-103
11.海勒.色彩的性格[M].吴彤.北京:中央编译出版社,2008
12.小林重顺.色彩心理探析[M].李军.北京:人民美术出版社,2006
13.张明.解读缤纷的色彩世界[M].北京:科学出版社,2007
14.崔唯.当代欧洲色彩艺术设计[M].福建:福建美术出版社,2005
15.宋建明.色彩设计在法国[M].上海:上海人民美术出版社,1999
16.约翰内斯·伊顿.色彩艺术[M].杜定宇.上海:上海世界出版社,2000
17.冯健亲.色彩[M].江苏:江苏美术出版社,1994
18.鲁道夫·阿恩海姆.艺术与视知觉[M].腾守尧,朱疆源.四川:四川人民出版社,2006
19.崔唯,莫莉[J].北京的女装之色.纺织服装周刊,2010,02:72-73
20.刘晓萍.浅析服装色彩对服装的心理暗示[J].大众文艺,2010,03:36-37
21.李建中,王雪松,张瀚[J].国际服装流行色预测方法研究.中国轻工教育,2010,02:27-28
22.北京服装学院色彩研究中心网站[OL].http://www. colorchina.net.cn/
23. NCS(中国)色彩中心[OL].http://www.ncscolorchina.com.cn/
24. Vogue服饰与美容网站[OL].http:// www.vogue.com.cn /
25.读秀知识库[OL] http:// www.duxiu.com.cn/