山羊绒绞纱染色色差的研究
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摘要
染色色差是印染企业最常见的质量问题,也是染色工作者长期遇到的复杂而又难以解决的质量问题。随着我国纺织品出口扩大,参与国际性竞争愈趋激烈,对色差等级的要求也愈趋严格。因此,如何提高染色面料色光的准确性和稳定性,适应客户要求,显得越来越重要。它不仅关系着企业的经济效益,更关系着企业的声誉。
色差的范围很广,它包括来样与小样色差、小样(或复样)配方用于大生产所产生的大小样色差、同批染色缸与缸之间的色差、批与批之间的色差等。
认真抓好染色各环节才能达到减少色差的目的。染色的色差并非只有染色过程才会产生的。产生染色色差的因素是多方面的,它不仅涉及染色工序、技术方面,而且还与管理,设备和操作因素以及染化料等都有密切关系。整个过程错综复杂,任何一个环节的失误,都会“触一发而动全身”,影响最终的产品质量。减少色差,首先要抓好染色所用染料、助剂的质量管理,防止染料、助剂质量波动而导致色差。加强染色过程管理,如准确称料、严格控制染色浴比、pH值、升温、降温过程,防止后处理对色差的影响。改善水质,要求水质达到一定指标,这是确保染整工艺正常和少出疵病的基础工作。
本论文以羊绒绞纱染色为例,在鄂尔多斯集团东煦染色公司和技术中心结合生产进行实验和测试,主要从染色工艺等几方面,通过正交试验设计方法,分析了染浴pH值、盐量、匀染剂、浴比、第一次保温温度、最终保温时间、纱线白度和纱支等因素对色差的影响,找出影响羊绒绞纱染色来样与小样色差、大小样色差、批差、缸差的最主要因素,调整出合理的染色工艺参数,制定出符合企业生产的优化工艺曲线,并利用优化的工艺参数和优化工艺曲线对羊绒绞线进行染色,结果表明提高了染色“一次准确性”(RFT),最终达到减少色差的目的。“三分技术,七分管理”,加强生产运转中的现场技术管理是也减少色差的关键。
Color difference in dyeing is the most common quality problem in dyeing enterprises. It is also a complex and unsolved quality problem to the colorists in the long term. With the expansion of China’s textile exports, participating in an increasingly competitive international, color grading requirements were becoming more stringent. Therefore, it is increasingly important that how to improve accuracy and stability of the dyeing fabric color light and adapt to the demands of clients. It is not only related to the economic efficiency of enterprises, but also more related to the enterprise’s reputation.
Color difference range is very wide. It includes color difference between customer’s sample and laboratory sample, laboratory sample(or duplicate sample) recipes are used for large production what be come into being color difference between bulk and laboratory sample, color differences between vats in same batch and color differences between batches and so on.
Controlling every link of dying seriously could minimize the color difference. The color difference could come out not only just in the dying procession. Factors lead to color difference which is wide range. It involves not only in the dying process and technology, but also is closely related to management, equipment and operating factors, dyes chemicals etc. The whole process is complex. Any links is mistake which will touch an outbreak influencing the whole of its quality. Used suitable dyestuff of dyeing and managed assistant well can prevent the fluctuation of assistant which can generate colour differeance minimizing. The consolidation of procession of dying, such as accurately measure, strictly control ratio of bath, pH, up and down of temperature can prevent the influence of after treatment to color differeance. Improvement quality of water and reaching a certain target is the basic work of the normal and little flow of process of dying.
This paper takes cashmere hank dyeing as an example, some experiments and testing are operated in dongxu dyeing company and technique center of Erdos group from the view of pH value of dye bath, salt dosage, levelling agent dosage, bath ratio, the first heat preservation temperature, the final heat preservation time, yarn whiteness and yarn count etc which influence color difference. This paper analyzes the main factors influencing color difference between customer’s sample and laboratory sample, color difference between bulk and laboratory sample, color differences between vats in same batch and color differences between batches can be found out through orthogonal experiment design, the reasonable process parameters be adjusted and enterprise production optimization technology curve be developed, and using the optimization process parameters and optimize the technology curve for cashmere hank dyeing, the results of which showed these methods can increase dyeing“one accuracy”(RFT), and ultimately reduce the color difference.“The 30 percent technique, the 70 percent management”which means improving production operation of on-site technical management is the key to reducing color difference.
色差的范围很广,它包括来样与小样色差、小样(或复样)配方用于大生产所产生的大小样色差、同批染色缸与缸之间的色差、批与批之间的色差等。
认真抓好染色各环节才能达到减少色差的目的。染色的色差并非只有染色过程才会产生的。产生染色色差的因素是多方面的,它不仅涉及染色工序、技术方面,而且还与管理,设备和操作因素以及染化料等都有密切关系。整个过程错综复杂,任何一个环节的失误,都会“触一发而动全身”,影响最终的产品质量。减少色差,首先要抓好染色所用染料、助剂的质量管理,防止染料、助剂质量波动而导致色差。加强染色过程管理,如准确称料、严格控制染色浴比、pH值、升温、降温过程,防止后处理对色差的影响。改善水质,要求水质达到一定指标,这是确保染整工艺正常和少出疵病的基础工作。
本论文以羊绒绞纱染色为例,在鄂尔多斯集团东煦染色公司和技术中心结合生产进行实验和测试,主要从染色工艺等几方面,通过正交试验设计方法,分析了染浴pH值、盐量、匀染剂、浴比、第一次保温温度、最终保温时间、纱线白度和纱支等因素对色差的影响,找出影响羊绒绞纱染色来样与小样色差、大小样色差、批差、缸差的最主要因素,调整出合理的染色工艺参数,制定出符合企业生产的优化工艺曲线,并利用优化的工艺参数和优化工艺曲线对羊绒绞线进行染色,结果表明提高了染色“一次准确性”(RFT),最终达到减少色差的目的。“三分技术,七分管理”,加强生产运转中的现场技术管理是也减少色差的关键。
Color difference in dyeing is the most common quality problem in dyeing enterprises. It is also a complex and unsolved quality problem to the colorists in the long term. With the expansion of China’s textile exports, participating in an increasingly competitive international, color grading requirements were becoming more stringent. Therefore, it is increasingly important that how to improve accuracy and stability of the dyeing fabric color light and adapt to the demands of clients. It is not only related to the economic efficiency of enterprises, but also more related to the enterprise’s reputation.
Color difference range is very wide. It includes color difference between customer’s sample and laboratory sample, laboratory sample(or duplicate sample) recipes are used for large production what be come into being color difference between bulk and laboratory sample, color differences between vats in same batch and color differences between batches and so on.
Controlling every link of dying seriously could minimize the color difference. The color difference could come out not only just in the dying procession. Factors lead to color difference which is wide range. It involves not only in the dying process and technology, but also is closely related to management, equipment and operating factors, dyes chemicals etc. The whole process is complex. Any links is mistake which will touch an outbreak influencing the whole of its quality. Used suitable dyestuff of dyeing and managed assistant well can prevent the fluctuation of assistant which can generate colour differeance minimizing. The consolidation of procession of dying, such as accurately measure, strictly control ratio of bath, pH, up and down of temperature can prevent the influence of after treatment to color differeance. Improvement quality of water and reaching a certain target is the basic work of the normal and little flow of process of dying.
This paper takes cashmere hank dyeing as an example, some experiments and testing are operated in dongxu dyeing company and technique center of Erdos group from the view of pH value of dye bath, salt dosage, levelling agent dosage, bath ratio, the first heat preservation temperature, the final heat preservation time, yarn whiteness and yarn count etc which influence color difference. This paper analyzes the main factors influencing color difference between customer’s sample and laboratory sample, color difference between bulk and laboratory sample, color differences between vats in same batch and color differences between batches can be found out through orthogonal experiment design, the reasonable process parameters be adjusted and enterprise production optimization technology curve be developed, and using the optimization process parameters and optimize the technology curve for cashmere hank dyeing, the results of which showed these methods can increase dyeing“one accuracy”(RFT), and ultimately reduce the color difference.“The 30 percent technique, the 70 percent management”which means improving production operation of on-site technical management is the key to reducing color difference.
引文
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[2] 韩敏,刘永.测配色影像系统在羊绒及羊毛织物生产中的应用[J].毛纺科技.2006,(2)
[3] 叶雅君.减少染色色差的实践[J].印染.2005,(10):34~36
[4] 吴爱连.减少尼龙织物染色大小样色差[J].印染.2001,(4):23~ 26.
[5] 张志.山羊绒纤维鉴别图谱[M].呼和浩特:内蒙古人民出版社,2005:4~7
[6] 陶乃杰.染整工程[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,1992
[7] 最新染料使用大全编写组.最新染料使用大全[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,1996
[8] 吴祖望等.α—溴代丙烯酰胺型染料反应机理新释[C].染料学术论文集.第四届染料学术报告会.1987
[9] 肖刚.溴代丙烯酰胺基活性染料的发展[J].染料工业.2002,(2):1~6
[10] 梁佳钧.活性染料染色一次成功法[J].针织工业.2001,(6):50~52
[11] 钱崇镰.纱线染色[M].北京:纺织工业出版社,1985
[12] 孙天竹.散纤维染色在羊绒纺纱中的灵活应用[J].毛纺科技.2004,(1):35~37
[13] 黄茂福.化学助剂分析及应用手册[M].中国纺织出版社,2001,(11)
[14] 刘文卿.实验设计[M].北京:清华大学出版社,2005:64 ~ 86.
[15] 金咸榷.染整工艺实验[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,1987
[16] 孙天竹.羊绒散纤维染色小样及成品颜色的控制[J].毛纺科技.2004,(3):25~27
[17] 祝永红.染色大样与小样之间色差的分析[J].毛纺科技.1997,(2):37~39
[18] 邓云霞,洪枫,张玉.染料的香菇漆酶脱色研究[J].印染.2006,(No.12):8~11
[19] 赵利强,靳建彬,王素霞.染色色差色条色花的预防与控制[J].2006,(No.9):19~20
[20] 孙杰,蒋唯沧,刘建华.铝合金着色槽液中有机染料分析方法的研究[J].材料工程 2001,(10):31~33
[21] 谢雪琴.紫外-可见吸收光谱分析技术[J].印染.2007,(No.3):42~45
[22] 孙天竹.羊绒绞纱染色中易出现的问题及解决方法[J].毛纺科技.2005,(4):21~23
[23] J.S.Church eaet.Chemical interactions of α—hromoacrylamide reactive dyes with wool.J.S.D.C Review of Progress in Coloration 1999
[24] 周凉仙.放样色差的原因剖析与克服措施[J].针织工业.2004,(1):67~69
[25] 吴旭华.减少腈纶针织绒绞纱染色的大小样差异的措施[J].染整技术.2004,(21):41
[26] 徐宗耀.绞纱用活性染料染色打样[J].印染.2002,(11):28~29
[27] 李丽英.精纺羊绒匹染产品染整工艺的探讨[J].毛纺科技.2001,(5):34~37
[28] 杜明,邹衡.筒子纱染色的重现性[J].印染.2004,(No.15):23~26
[29] 周凉仙,吴金石.筒子纱及散纤维染色小样机和中样机的选用[J].针织工业. 2005,(2)
[30] 李进爱.高温高压筒子染色工艺设计[J].印染.2000,(1):18 ~20.
[31] 王菊生,孙铠.染整工艺原理[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2003
[32] 王菊生.染整工艺原理(3)[M].北京:纺织工业出版社,1984
[33] KozoA rai. Cross-linking structure of keration[Jl.Journal of Applied Pol ymer Science,1993,147:1973 一 1981
[34] P.Rys,H. Zollinger:Reactive Dyeing:Basic Principles and their Implication for the Dyes,T.C. C.
[35] 许敏,龚蕴玉.改善经轴纱线染色质量的思路与对策[J].南通纺织职业技术学院学报.2004,(2):17~19
[36] 郭莉.连续染色常见问题解决方法[J].印染.2003,(N0.9):26～28
[37] 蔡如月,黄建华.纺织品色样确认及其常见问题解决方法[J].印染.2005,(No17):20~22
[38] 蔡秀平.化验室仿色打样方法与技术要点[J].上海丝绸.2005,(3):6~10
[39] 陈文.超薄型精纺羊绒衫的后整理工艺[J].针织工业.2005,(7):46~47
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