低频波浪的试验研究
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摘要
碎波拍是破波带外周期为30秒到5分钟的一种低频波动。大量研究表明,碎波拍对港内波浪的平稳度、系泊船运动、海岸的泥沙输运、海工建筑物的设计都有重要影响。
本文首先对低频波浪研究进行了简单的回顾,并详细介绍了低频波浪生成机制研究的各种方法。然后通过物理模型实验和数值模拟,在低频波浪生成机制研究领域取得了以下研究成果：
1.成功设计了研究低频波浪生成机制的物理模型实验,研究由双色波激发产生的低频波浪。实验中采用二阶造波技术,极大的压制了水槽中伪长波的生成；实验地形消除了零水深的海岸线,有效避免了波浪在海岸线处的反射,使得在实验中可以直接观测由波浪破碎点移动产生的离岸方向的自由长波。研究结果表明,在陡坡(1：10)上破碎点移动产生低频波浪这一机理占主导地位,而在缓坡(1：40)上约束长波释放产生的低频波浪更加明显。
2.进行了双色波在潜堤上传播的物理模型实验。研究了调谐率、平均频率和差频三项因素对低频波浪产生的影响。分析结果表明,三种因素均对低频波浪的产生有重要影响。
3.通过物理模型实验研究了不规则波在陡坡和缓坡上低频波浪的生成机理,采用小波二阶谱来分析缓坡和陡坡情况下不规则波浪各成份能量之间的传递,分析结果表明与陡坡下相比,低频波浪在缓坡条件下通过非线性传递得到的能量更多,进一步证明了在缓坡上约束长波的释放产生低频波浪的机理占主导因素。
4.使用一组改进色散关系的Bousenessq方程作为控制方程,通过源函数法进行域内造波。通过与物理模型实验对比,发现该模型可以很好的模拟破碎带以外低频波浪的生成。另外还模拟了长波在缓坡上的传播变形。
Surf beat is a low-frequency wave motion with a period of0.5-5.0min outside the surf zone. The research of surf beat has found that this kind of low-frequency wave motion plays an important role in the harbor tranquility, motions of the moored ships, sediment transport as well as tdesign coastal structures.
In this thesis, a brief review on the studies of infragravity waves is present first, mainly focusing on the generation mechanisms of infragravity waves. By both experimental and numerical ways, some new aspects of infragravity waves are achieved:
1. Physical experiments on low-frequency waves are succefully designed, bichromatic wave groups are used to excitate long waves. To supress the generation of spurious long waves in the wave flume, the second-order wave generation theory is adopted. In addtion, the shorelines of the slopes are replaced by horizontal reaches of small depths, which can reduce the reflection of waves near the shoreline significantly. Since free long waves are generated when the primary waves break near this abrupt change in slope, the reflection of long waves is reduced significantly. Therefore, the experiments for the first time make it is possible to directly observe the outgoing breakpoint forced long waves. The results indicate that the mechanics of breakpoint forced long waves dominate over the low-frequency wave field on the steep slope, while the released bound long waves are found to be significant on the mild slope, which are excited by bichromatic wave groups on a steep (1:10) slope and a mild (1:40) slope, are carried out.
2. Physiccal experiment of bichromatic wave groups propagating on a submerged curvilinear sill is also conducted. In this experiment, the effects of the amplitude modulation, mean frequency(group main frequencies) and difference frequencies(low frequency) on the generation of low-frequency waves and higher harmonics are examined. It is found that the all three factors can signifiantly influence the generation of low-frequency waves.
3. Nonlinear transformation of random waves over a steep slope (1:10) and a mild (1:40) slope are studied. Two experimental cases of random waves mechanically generated by JONSWAP spectra are used for this purpose. The wavelet-based bispectrum is adopted to study the nonlinear wave-wave interactions. The bispectrum reveals that low frequency waves on the mild slope can gain more energy that that on the steep slope, further verifing that the release mechanics of long waves on mild slops is significant.
4. A set of Boussinesq equations with improved dispersion relationship is used to simulate waves propagating on a mild slope. The source funtion is adopt to generate waves. The resluts show that the numerical model can correctly simulate long wave generation out the surf zone, but fails after wave breaking. The numerical results indicate that free long waves also can excite its higher harmonics.
本文首先对低频波浪研究进行了简单的回顾,并详细介绍了低频波浪生成机制研究的各种方法。然后通过物理模型实验和数值模拟,在低频波浪生成机制研究领域取得了以下研究成果：
1.成功设计了研究低频波浪生成机制的物理模型实验,研究由双色波激发产生的低频波浪。实验中采用二阶造波技术,极大的压制了水槽中伪长波的生成；实验地形消除了零水深的海岸线,有效避免了波浪在海岸线处的反射,使得在实验中可以直接观测由波浪破碎点移动产生的离岸方向的自由长波。研究结果表明,在陡坡(1：10)上破碎点移动产生低频波浪这一机理占主导地位,而在缓坡(1：40)上约束长波释放产生的低频波浪更加明显。
2.进行了双色波在潜堤上传播的物理模型实验。研究了调谐率、平均频率和差频三项因素对低频波浪产生的影响。分析结果表明,三种因素均对低频波浪的产生有重要影响。
3.通过物理模型实验研究了不规则波在陡坡和缓坡上低频波浪的生成机理,采用小波二阶谱来分析缓坡和陡坡情况下不规则波浪各成份能量之间的传递,分析结果表明与陡坡下相比,低频波浪在缓坡条件下通过非线性传递得到的能量更多,进一步证明了在缓坡上约束长波的释放产生低频波浪的机理占主导因素。
4.使用一组改进色散关系的Bousenessq方程作为控制方程,通过源函数法进行域内造波。通过与物理模型实验对比,发现该模型可以很好的模拟破碎带以外低频波浪的生成。另外还模拟了长波在缓坡上的传播变形。
Surf beat is a low-frequency wave motion with a period of0.5-5.0min outside the surf zone. The research of surf beat has found that this kind of low-frequency wave motion plays an important role in the harbor tranquility, motions of the moored ships, sediment transport as well as tdesign coastal structures.
In this thesis, a brief review on the studies of infragravity waves is present first, mainly focusing on the generation mechanisms of infragravity waves. By both experimental and numerical ways, some new aspects of infragravity waves are achieved:
1. Physical experiments on low-frequency waves are succefully designed, bichromatic wave groups are used to excitate long waves. To supress the generation of spurious long waves in the wave flume, the second-order wave generation theory is adopted. In addtion, the shorelines of the slopes are replaced by horizontal reaches of small depths, which can reduce the reflection of waves near the shoreline significantly. Since free long waves are generated when the primary waves break near this abrupt change in slope, the reflection of long waves is reduced significantly. Therefore, the experiments for the first time make it is possible to directly observe the outgoing breakpoint forced long waves. The results indicate that the mechanics of breakpoint forced long waves dominate over the low-frequency wave field on the steep slope, while the released bound long waves are found to be significant on the mild slope, which are excited by bichromatic wave groups on a steep (1:10) slope and a mild (1:40) slope, are carried out.
2. Physiccal experiment of bichromatic wave groups propagating on a submerged curvilinear sill is also conducted. In this experiment, the effects of the amplitude modulation, mean frequency(group main frequencies) and difference frequencies(low frequency) on the generation of low-frequency waves and higher harmonics are examined. It is found that the all three factors can signifiantly influence the generation of low-frequency waves.
3. Nonlinear transformation of random waves over a steep slope (1:10) and a mild (1:40) slope are studied. Two experimental cases of random waves mechanically generated by JONSWAP spectra are used for this purpose. The wavelet-based bispectrum is adopted to study the nonlinear wave-wave interactions. The bispectrum reveals that low frequency waves on the mild slope can gain more energy that that on the steep slope, further verifing that the release mechanics of long waves on mild slops is significant.
4. A set of Boussinesq equations with improved dispersion relationship is used to simulate waves propagating on a mild slope. The source funtion is adopt to generate waves. The resluts show that the numerical model can correctly simulate long wave generation out the surf zone, but fails after wave breaking. The numerical results indicate that free long waves also can excite its higher harmonics.
引文
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