敦煌莫高窟唐时期耳饰研究
摘要
本文针对敦煌莫高窟唐时期俗人佩戴的耳饰进行研究(以菩萨所佩戴耳饰为佐证),以经变画及158窟各国王子举哀图中人物形象为线索,来研究唐时期少数民族及唐代汉人佩戴耳饰的习俗。敦煌莫高窟唐时期俗人所佩戴耳饰类型多样,本文从造型、佩戴方式、习俗进行分析,对唐时期俗人佩戴耳饰的风俗有了一定的了解,俗人佩戴不同款式的耳饰也证明了莫高窟是东西文化的交融处。
第一部分首先对研究对象和研究目的加以说明,为了区别不同形制的耳饰,本文给不同类型的耳饰以定义。
第二部分介绍了穿耳之说,早在新石器时代我们的祖先已经有穿耳之举,并一直递嬗到秦汉时代。到了唐代,汉人穿耳、佩戴耳饰者就不多见,但在唐周边的少数民族却较风行。
第三部分其中以158窟及经变画中形象资料为线索,详细介绍了少数民族人物及菩萨佩戴的耳饰,共分为七种:玦、耳珰、耳环、耳坠、耳钉、耳钳、充耳。158窟中的俗人形象为男性,笔者由其中确定身份人物所属的民族作延伸,对所属民族妇女佩戴耳饰的习俗加以分析研究。南亚人男性、女性都有戴耳饰的习俗,“耳珰”为南亚人最常佩戴的一种。回鹘男性以“耳坠”和“耳环”最为常见,女性以耳坠为多,且造型各异,长垂至肩,相对于整个头饰比例较夸张。吐蕃男女皆以“耳钉”为主,其造型及材质与当时印度耳饰颇为相似,笔者推测由于民族和亲,一定程度上受其影响。
This paper studies the earrings worn by laymen living in the Tang dynasty inside Dunhuang grottos, with the evidence of those worn by Buddhists. Furthermore, it analyzes the custom of wearing earrings among the Han nationality and the minorities during the Tang dynasty, with the clue of the figures of princes from different countries attending mourning carved on Grotto No. 158 and printed one picture named "Jingbian". While the style of earrings worn by laymen during the Tang dynasty varies, the paper is intended to provide certain insight into the custom of wearing earrings by laymen during the Tang dynasty by means of analyzing the profile, the way of and custom of wearing earrings, to the extent demonstrating that Grotto is the place where eastern and western culture mingles due to the fact that laymen wear different styles of earrings.In the first place, the paper illustrates the subject and objective of this study. Then in order to distinguish among different styles of earrings, it defines these different styles of earrings.The second chapter introduces the anecdote of hole-punching through ear which says that the practice of doing this dates back to the Neolithic Age, and handed down from generation to generation till the
Qing and Han dynasty. When it comes to the Tang dynasty, punching hole through ear or wearing earrings among Han nationality is seldom seen, while become relatively vogue among the minorities neighboring to Tang.On the basis of the figures inside grotto No. 158 and on the picture of "Jingbian", the third part describes in detail the earrings worn the minorities and Buddhists, which fall into following catalogs: ear pendants, eardrops...JUE ER DANG ER DING , ER QIAN CHONG ER Those laymen carved inside grotto No. 158 are all male. For those men whose nationality can be identified, the author extends the research further into the custom of wearing earrings among the women of the same nationality. The conclusion reached by the paper is as follows: Custom is that both men and women in east Asian like to wear earrings, among which "ER dang" ranks the No. 1 choice;Men of "Huihu" most of the time prefer "eardrop" and "ear pendants", while women of that nationality mostly in favor of "eardrops", with various shapes and often down to shoulder, fairly exaggeration as to the proportion of the headwear;"ER DING " whose profile and texture are extremely similar to those of the earrings in India, dominates among the earrings chosen by men and women in Tibetan regime, which is, according to the author's deduction, affected to some degree by the marriages among different nationalities.The fourth chapter depicts that those figures of emperors carved inside grotto No. 158 do not do hole-punching though ear and not wear
any earrings. However, based on the documents in history and the figures of those emperors on the picture "Jingbian" inside Dunhuang grottos No.220, emperors of the Tang dynasty wear "CHONG ER" dropping alongside ear which is the symbol of their status, while common people seldom practice the hole-punching through ear and wear earrings. Those two traditional beautiful women escorting emperor of Han nationality inside grotto No. 158 dug during the time when Tibetan rules the whole country wear "SHUANG ya ji", the difference of which compared to those worn by women during the beginning and middle of the Tang dynasty is that "shuang ya ji" is decorated by small green pearls right beside each ear. These small green pearls are similar to the hairpin used by women in the Han dynasty which is recorded in historical document. The figures carved inside grotto No. 159 and 231 indicate that such phenomenon has something to the mutual influence of the style of dress and personal adornment of Tibetan and Han nationality. The type and style of the earrings worn by Buddhists of the Tang dynasty inside Dunhuang grottos outnumber those of the earrings worn during other dynasty. The dress and adornment of Buddhists reflect to certain degree those of laymen, but hole-punching through ear and wearing earrings were not in fashion of the Tang dynasty. The author infers that this situation, on the one hand, has to do with the fact that feudal code of ethics was despised at that time. As is well known, the Tang dynasty is the era when Buddhism,
Confucianism and Taoism exist together. It is estimated that the custom of not doing the hole-punching through ear is influenced by the "filial piety" of Confucianism. On the other hand, the headwear being comparatively simple, the hair being worn in various buns or coils and the ornaments being relatively few of the Tang dynasty, all these have a bearing on the custom of not wearing earrings.
第一部分首先对研究对象和研究目的加以说明,为了区别不同形制的耳饰,本文给不同类型的耳饰以定义。
第二部分介绍了穿耳之说,早在新石器时代我们的祖先已经有穿耳之举,并一直递嬗到秦汉时代。到了唐代,汉人穿耳、佩戴耳饰者就不多见,但在唐周边的少数民族却较风行。
第三部分其中以158窟及经变画中形象资料为线索,详细介绍了少数民族人物及菩萨佩戴的耳饰,共分为七种:玦、耳珰、耳环、耳坠、耳钉、耳钳、充耳。158窟中的俗人形象为男性,笔者由其中确定身份人物所属的民族作延伸,对所属民族妇女佩戴耳饰的习俗加以分析研究。南亚人男性、女性都有戴耳饰的习俗,“耳珰”为南亚人最常佩戴的一种。回鹘男性以“耳坠”和“耳环”最为常见,女性以耳坠为多,且造型各异,长垂至肩,相对于整个头饰比例较夸张。吐蕃男女皆以“耳钉”为主,其造型及材质与当时印度耳饰颇为相似,笔者推测由于民族和亲,一定程度上受其影响。
This paper studies the earrings worn by laymen living in the Tang dynasty inside Dunhuang grottos, with the evidence of those worn by Buddhists. Furthermore, it analyzes the custom of wearing earrings among the Han nationality and the minorities during the Tang dynasty, with the clue of the figures of princes from different countries attending mourning carved on Grotto No. 158 and printed one picture named "Jingbian". While the style of earrings worn by laymen during the Tang dynasty varies, the paper is intended to provide certain insight into the custom of wearing earrings by laymen during the Tang dynasty by means of analyzing the profile, the way of and custom of wearing earrings, to the extent demonstrating that Grotto is the place where eastern and western culture mingles due to the fact that laymen wear different styles of earrings.In the first place, the paper illustrates the subject and objective of this study. Then in order to distinguish among different styles of earrings, it defines these different styles of earrings.The second chapter introduces the anecdote of hole-punching through ear which says that the practice of doing this dates back to the Neolithic Age, and handed down from generation to generation till the
Qing and Han dynasty. When it comes to the Tang dynasty, punching hole through ear or wearing earrings among Han nationality is seldom seen, while become relatively vogue among the minorities neighboring to Tang.On the basis of the figures inside grotto No. 158 and on the picture of "Jingbian", the third part describes in detail the earrings worn the minorities and Buddhists, which fall into following catalogs: ear pendants, eardrops...JUE ER DANG ER DING , ER QIAN CHONG ER Those laymen carved inside grotto No. 158 are all male. For those men whose nationality can be identified, the author extends the research further into the custom of wearing earrings among the women of the same nationality. The conclusion reached by the paper is as follows: Custom is that both men and women in east Asian like to wear earrings, among which "ER dang" ranks the No. 1 choice;Men of "Huihu" most of the time prefer "eardrop" and "ear pendants", while women of that nationality mostly in favor of "eardrops", with various shapes and often down to shoulder, fairly exaggeration as to the proportion of the headwear;"ER DING " whose profile and texture are extremely similar to those of the earrings in India, dominates among the earrings chosen by men and women in Tibetan regime, which is, according to the author's deduction, affected to some degree by the marriages among different nationalities.The fourth chapter depicts that those figures of emperors carved inside grotto No. 158 do not do hole-punching though ear and not wear
any earrings. However, based on the documents in history and the figures of those emperors on the picture "Jingbian" inside Dunhuang grottos No.220, emperors of the Tang dynasty wear "CHONG ER" dropping alongside ear which is the symbol of their status, while common people seldom practice the hole-punching through ear and wear earrings. Those two traditional beautiful women escorting emperor of Han nationality inside grotto No. 158 dug during the time when Tibetan rules the whole country wear "SHUANG ya ji", the difference of which compared to those worn by women during the beginning and middle of the Tang dynasty is that "shuang ya ji" is decorated by small green pearls right beside each ear. These small green pearls are similar to the hairpin used by women in the Han dynasty which is recorded in historical document. The figures carved inside grotto No. 159 and 231 indicate that such phenomenon has something to the mutual influence of the style of dress and personal adornment of Tibetan and Han nationality. The type and style of the earrings worn by Buddhists of the Tang dynasty inside Dunhuang grottos outnumber those of the earrings worn during other dynasty. The dress and adornment of Buddhists reflect to certain degree those of laymen, but hole-punching through ear and wearing earrings were not in fashion of the Tang dynasty. The author infers that this situation, on the one hand, has to do with the fact that feudal code of ethics was despised at that time. As is well known, the Tang dynasty is the era when Buddhism,
Confucianism and Taoism exist together. It is estimated that the custom of not doing the hole-punching through ear is influenced by the "filial piety" of Confucianism. On the other hand, the headwear being comparatively simple, the hair being worn in various buns or coils and the ornaments being relatively few of the Tang dynasty, all these have a bearing on the custom of not wearing earrings.
引文
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1、敦煌研究院,敦煌莫高窟石窟艺术,
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