生活装旗袍三围松量的研究及纸样优化
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摘要
中国风盛行的今天,旗袍继90年代热后,再次掀起了时尚浪潮。然而虽然许多女性对旗袍钟爱有加,却对其望而却步。究其原因,由于旗袍板型贴体,一方面对女性的身材要求较高,另一方面其运动舒适性不佳,不适合日常穿着。因此如何改造旗袍,使其既保留古色古香的中国韵味,又穿着舒适健康,是决定中式服装能否复苏与否的关键。
本课题属于对合体型连身式服装松量及板型优化的研究范畴。研究思路是首先获得女性体型规律,其次通过动态试验获得人体的最佳松量,最后将二者结合设计出生活装改良旗袍的纸样。
由于前人对生活装旗袍的研究较少,因此本文首先通过市场调查获得消费者的诉求,再有的放矢,针对诉求进行后续研究。本文对上海地区白领女性发放了175份问卷,调查发现：100%的女性对自己的身材至少有一个部位不满意；81.1%的女性表示愿意穿着旗袍；此外有81.3%的女性对穿着旗袍时会对身材要求过高和对运动舒适性有影响持有顾虑。以上数据进一步说明改良旗袍的问世迫在眉睫。
为了具体了解青年女性体态的特征及旗袍纸样具体参数的设置,本课题运用马丁测量仪等工具对182名18～25岁只穿着规定文胸和内裤的女性进行测量,得到59个静态女性胸部尺寸,通过SPSS软件分析及文献回顾,产生了11个表达体型特征的特征参数,即身高、胸围、前胸宽、后背宽、小肩宽、腰臀差,胸腰差、罩杯、腹围、胸高比和臀高比。并以以上11个变量为特征参数,运用聚类分析方法,将182名样本分为六类,即六种特征体型。
在动态试验中,本文选择30名中间体女性,将其身体进行标线,要求其完成11项动静态规定动作。并在每个动作保持状态下,测量其围度和细部的皮肤拉伸率。试验结果显示：胸围的最大皮肤拉伸率为8.4%,其中39.3%的皮肤拉伸率是由生理活动呼吸引起的；腰围的’最大皮肤拉伸率为10.12%；腹围的最大皮肤拉伸率为6.1%；臀围的最大皮肤拉伸率为5.6%；背长的最大皮肤拉伸率为9.34%。这些数据是设计合理服装松量的重要参照依据。
将动态和静态体型测量的实验结果相结合,并运用NAC2000服装CAD建立六类体型旗袍的纸样数据库。并对样衣的合体性、美观和舒适性进行论证。本文请到8位专家对样衣的外观进行主观评价,评分结果分别为4.42,4.63,4.33,4.52。又请试穿的试衣模特进行动态穿着评价,评分结果分别为4.00,4.25,4.63,4.50,4.50,4.25,4.63,4.50。以上评价结果显示,动态和静态主观试衣评价得分都较高,即本文所设计生活装旗袍的松量和板型是合理的。
以上研究成果,为合体女装松量的加放,以及生活装旗袍松量和结构优化提供了科学而实用的理论依据和设计方法。
With Chinese style sweeping all over the world, Cheongsam, which up surged in 90's, must be popular again today. Although female was fond of Cheongsam, they were always apart from it. The reason was obviously. On one hand, it requested nice body shape of ladies. On the other hand, it was difficult for movement, especially for every day wear. Therefore, how to improve cheongsam to make it more comfortable meanwhile remained its charming? It was very critical for Chinese traditional costume's recovery.
This issue belongs to the field of fitted one-piece dress, major research garment reasonable ease and pattern improvement. The study routine was that gains female body rule firstly, and then achieves optimum ease value with moveable body test. Finally, designs the causal cheongsam pattern by combined both of above.
Because of rare literature before, In this paper, a market research would be made for customer's appeal, and then carried out sequential study according to the result surveyed. The respondents were white-collar female who lived in Shanghai, and 175 in all. The reason showed that none of them was satisfied with their body; 81.1% of respondents would like to wear Cheongsam, but 81.3% still worried about their body shape and bad comfort on movement. So above all proved it was extremely urgent for reformative Cheongsam.
In order to understand the specific characteristics of young women and the parameters set of experimental paper pattern, in this paper 182 18 to 25-year-old subjects that were upper body nude was measured by tools such as Martin to get the static size of the female's body. The experiment gained 59 body parameters and 11 characteristics parameters selected by SPSS software, which were height, chest,front width, back width, shoulder width, difference in waist and hip,difference in chest and waist, cup, bally, chest height/ status and hip height/ status. The research divided 182 subjects into 6 departments by cluster analysis.
In moveable experiment,30 standard females was marked lines on their bodies and was requested to finish 11 specified poses meanwhile measured their girth and detail measurements. The result showed as below:the most tensile rate of skin on chest was 8.4%, and 39.3% of it was caused by breath; the biggest stretched rate of skin on waist was 10.12%, and the largest stretched rate of skin on abdomen was 6.1%; the most tensile rate of skin on hip and back was separately 5.6% and 9.34%. All of the value was crucial dependence for reasonable ease designed.
Finally, the issue combined both movable test and static test and use NAC2000 CAD software to build a pattern data document for above 6 body characteristics. Besides, the samples which was made according to patterns, was evaluated on fitting, appearance and comfort. In this study, 8 experts were invited to value the samples with subjective estimate system. The scores were separately 4.42,4.63,4.33,4.52. After that,4 live models who wore 4 pieces of samples were asked to evaluate moveable comfort. The grades were 4.00,4.25,4.63,4.50,4.50,4.25, 4.63,4.50. According to above scores, a conclusion was achieved that not only moveable but also static sample value got a good results. That means both ease and pattern of causal Cheongsam designed in the paper was reasonable.
Above all research provides scientific and available theoretical proof and implement for designing ease and pattern of causal Cheongsam.
本课题属于对合体型连身式服装松量及板型优化的研究范畴。研究思路是首先获得女性体型规律,其次通过动态试验获得人体的最佳松量,最后将二者结合设计出生活装改良旗袍的纸样。
由于前人对生活装旗袍的研究较少,因此本文首先通过市场调查获得消费者的诉求,再有的放矢,针对诉求进行后续研究。本文对上海地区白领女性发放了175份问卷,调查发现：100%的女性对自己的身材至少有一个部位不满意；81.1%的女性表示愿意穿着旗袍；此外有81.3%的女性对穿着旗袍时会对身材要求过高和对运动舒适性有影响持有顾虑。以上数据进一步说明改良旗袍的问世迫在眉睫。
为了具体了解青年女性体态的特征及旗袍纸样具体参数的设置,本课题运用马丁测量仪等工具对182名18～25岁只穿着规定文胸和内裤的女性进行测量,得到59个静态女性胸部尺寸,通过SPSS软件分析及文献回顾,产生了11个表达体型特征的特征参数,即身高、胸围、前胸宽、后背宽、小肩宽、腰臀差,胸腰差、罩杯、腹围、胸高比和臀高比。并以以上11个变量为特征参数,运用聚类分析方法,将182名样本分为六类,即六种特征体型。
在动态试验中,本文选择30名中间体女性,将其身体进行标线,要求其完成11项动静态规定动作。并在每个动作保持状态下,测量其围度和细部的皮肤拉伸率。试验结果显示：胸围的最大皮肤拉伸率为8.4%,其中39.3%的皮肤拉伸率是由生理活动呼吸引起的；腰围的’最大皮肤拉伸率为10.12%；腹围的最大皮肤拉伸率为6.1%；臀围的最大皮肤拉伸率为5.6%；背长的最大皮肤拉伸率为9.34%。这些数据是设计合理服装松量的重要参照依据。
将动态和静态体型测量的实验结果相结合,并运用NAC2000服装CAD建立六类体型旗袍的纸样数据库。并对样衣的合体性、美观和舒适性进行论证。本文请到8位专家对样衣的外观进行主观评价,评分结果分别为4.42,4.63,4.33,4.52。又请试穿的试衣模特进行动态穿着评价,评分结果分别为4.00,4.25,4.63,4.50,4.50,4.25,4.63,4.50。以上评价结果显示,动态和静态主观试衣评价得分都较高,即本文所设计生活装旗袍的松量和板型是合理的。
以上研究成果,为合体女装松量的加放,以及生活装旗袍松量和结构优化提供了科学而实用的理论依据和设计方法。
With Chinese style sweeping all over the world, Cheongsam, which up surged in 90's, must be popular again today. Although female was fond of Cheongsam, they were always apart from it. The reason was obviously. On one hand, it requested nice body shape of ladies. On the other hand, it was difficult for movement, especially for every day wear. Therefore, how to improve cheongsam to make it more comfortable meanwhile remained its charming? It was very critical for Chinese traditional costume's recovery.
This issue belongs to the field of fitted one-piece dress, major research garment reasonable ease and pattern improvement. The study routine was that gains female body rule firstly, and then achieves optimum ease value with moveable body test. Finally, designs the causal cheongsam pattern by combined both of above.
Because of rare literature before, In this paper, a market research would be made for customer's appeal, and then carried out sequential study according to the result surveyed. The respondents were white-collar female who lived in Shanghai, and 175 in all. The reason showed that none of them was satisfied with their body; 81.1% of respondents would like to wear Cheongsam, but 81.3% still worried about their body shape and bad comfort on movement. So above all proved it was extremely urgent for reformative Cheongsam.
In order to understand the specific characteristics of young women and the parameters set of experimental paper pattern, in this paper 182 18 to 25-year-old subjects that were upper body nude was measured by tools such as Martin to get the static size of the female's body. The experiment gained 59 body parameters and 11 characteristics parameters selected by SPSS software, which were height, chest,front width, back width, shoulder width, difference in waist and hip,difference in chest and waist, cup, bally, chest height/ status and hip height/ status. The research divided 182 subjects into 6 departments by cluster analysis.
In moveable experiment,30 standard females was marked lines on their bodies and was requested to finish 11 specified poses meanwhile measured their girth and detail measurements. The result showed as below:the most tensile rate of skin on chest was 8.4%, and 39.3% of it was caused by breath; the biggest stretched rate of skin on waist was 10.12%, and the largest stretched rate of skin on abdomen was 6.1%; the most tensile rate of skin on hip and back was separately 5.6% and 9.34%. All of the value was crucial dependence for reasonable ease designed.
Finally, the issue combined both movable test and static test and use NAC2000 CAD software to build a pattern data document for above 6 body characteristics. Besides, the samples which was made according to patterns, was evaluated on fitting, appearance and comfort. In this study, 8 experts were invited to value the samples with subjective estimate system. The scores were separately 4.42,4.63,4.33,4.52. After that,4 live models who wore 4 pieces of samples were asked to evaluate moveable comfort. The grades were 4.00,4.25,4.63,4.50,4.50,4.25, 4.63,4.50. According to above scores, a conclusion was achieved that not only moveable but also static sample value got a good results. That means both ease and pattern of causal Cheongsam designed in the paper was reasonable.
Above all research provides scientific and available theoretical proof and implement for designing ease and pattern of causal Cheongsam.
引文
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[2]高强.长江三角地区中式服装发展现状.中国服装网.2007(02).
[3]王祺明,张渭源.服装人体测量的方式比较研究.四川丝绸.2007(01).
[4]张鸿志赵锘平.服装纸样计算机辅助设计.中国纺织出版社.2007(12).
[5]Forsey D R. A surface model for skeleton-based character animation. In:Proc. Second Euro graphics Workshop on Animation and Simulation [C].1991:55-74.
[6]Douros I., Dekker L., Buxton B F., An improved algorithm for reconstruction of the surface of the human body from 3D scanner data using local B-spline patches[A]. In:Workshop Proceeding of IEEE-ICCV99[C].1999.29-36.
[7]TAYA Y, SHIBUYA A, NAKAJIMA T. Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body-Part1:Evaluation index of clothing fitness[J].J Text Mach Soc Japan. 1995,48 (2):48-55.
[8]WANG Z H. Study on the relation between garment style and ease distribution[J].Journal of Donghua University.2004,21 (6):31-37.
[9]Locker S. Z, Ashdown S, Schoenfelder K. Size-specific analysis of body scan data to improve apparel fit[J].Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management.2005,3 (4):1-15.
[10]刘胜利.服装松量的成因分析.徐州工程学院学报.2006(12)
[11]陈荣富；陈蔚如.旗袍的造型演变与结构设计变化研究.浙江理工大学学报.2007(02)
[12]韩滨颖,潘彤等编著.盛世华服——纸样设计与裁剪.中国纺织出版社.2001(08).
[13]刘冠彬,唐如新.现代旗袍结构设计的研究与实践.丝绸.2004(01).
[14]张浩,郑嵘,徐枫,王宣香.旗袍空间省量分配与侧缝形态关系.北京服装学院学报(自然科学版).2006(03).
[15]韩滨颖.胸省转移变化技法在现代旗袍结构中的应用.吉林工程技术师范学院学报.2003(09).
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[17]陈龙.三维服装柔性参数化设计方法及技术研究.博士论文.浙江大学.2008.
[18]彭群生,胡国飞.三角网格的参数化.计算机辅助设计与图形学.2004(16)：731-739.
[19]金建国,周明华,王明怡等.曲线参数化模型研究.浙江大学学报(工学版),2002(36)：74-77.
[20]Betting B., Shah J.. Derivation of a standard set of geometric constraints for parametric modeling and data exchange. Computer Aided Design.2001:33(1):17-33.
[21]徐文鹏,陆国栋,王剑等.三维服装CAD中几何约束表达及其求解技术研究.计算机辅助设计与图形学学报.2005(7)：1054-1059.
[22]佟志军.旗袍在现代社会的地位及创新性研究.硕士论文.苏州大学.2008.
[23]孙可可.自然着装状态下非接触式人体测量技术的研究.[硕士论文].天津工业大学.2007.
[24]薛薇.基于SPSS的数据分析.中国人民大学出版社.2006(10).
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[26]夏明.基于MTM的男上装样板快速生成系统研究.硕士论文.2006.
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[2]高强.长江三角地区中式服装发展现状.中国服装网.2007(02).
[3]王祺明,张渭源.服装人体测量的方式比较研究.四川丝绸.2007(01).
[4]张鸿志赵锘平.服装纸样计算机辅助设计.中国纺织出版社.2007(12).
[5]Forsey D R. A surface model for skeleton-based character animation. In:Proc. Second Euro graphics Workshop on Animation and Simulation [C].1991:55-74.
[6]Douros I., Dekker L., Buxton B F., An improved algorithm for reconstruction of the surface of the human body from 3D scanner data using local B-spline patches[A]. In:Workshop Proceeding of IEEE-ICCV99[C].1999.29-36.
[7]TAYA Y, SHIBUYA A, NAKAJIMA T. Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body-Part1:Evaluation index of clothing fitness[J].J Text Mach Soc Japan. 1995,48 (2):48-55.
[8]WANG Z H. Study on the relation between garment style and ease distribution[J].Journal of Donghua University.2004,21 (6):31-37.
[9]Locker S. Z, Ashdown S, Schoenfelder K. Size-specific analysis of body scan data to improve apparel fit[J].Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management.2005,3 (4):1-15.
[10]刘胜利.服装松量的成因分析.徐州工程学院学报.2006(12)
[11]陈荣富；陈蔚如.旗袍的造型演变与结构设计变化研究.浙江理工大学学报.2007(02)
[12]韩滨颖,潘彤等编著.盛世华服——纸样设计与裁剪.中国纺织出版社.2001(08).
[13]刘冠彬,唐如新.现代旗袍结构设计的研究与实践.丝绸.2004(01).
[14]张浩,郑嵘,徐枫,王宣香.旗袍空间省量分配与侧缝形态关系.北京服装学院学报(自然科学版).2006(03).
[15]韩滨颖.胸省转移变化技法在现代旗袍结构中的应用.吉林工程技术师范学院学报.2003(09).
[16]刘建萍,张毅,荆妙蕾.无省合体旗袍塑型方法的探索与分析.天津工业大学学报.2004(02).
[17]陈龙.三维服装柔性参数化设计方法及技术研究.博士论文.浙江大学.2008.
[18]彭群生,胡国飞.三角网格的参数化.计算机辅助设计与图形学.2004(16)：731-739.
[19]金建国,周明华,王明怡等.曲线参数化模型研究.浙江大学学报(工学版),2002(36)：74-77.
[20]Betting B., Shah J.. Derivation of a standard set of geometric constraints for parametric modeling and data exchange. Computer Aided Design.2001:33(1):17-33.
[21]徐文鹏,陆国栋,王剑等.三维服装CAD中几何约束表达及其求解技术研究.计算机辅助设计与图形学学报.2005(7)：1054-1059.
[22]佟志军.旗袍在现代社会的地位及创新性研究.硕士论文.苏州大学.2008.
[23]孙可可.自然着装状态下非接触式人体测量技术的研究.[硕士论文].天津工业大学.2007.
[24]薛薇.基于SPSS的数据分析.中国人民大学出版社.2006(10).
[25]中泽愈[日].人体与服装.中国纺织出版社.1996(04).
[26]夏明.基于MTM的男上装样板快速生成系统研究.硕士论文.2006.
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