远足运动服装热舒适性研究
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摘要
一直以来,关于服装热舒适性的研究一直是国内外学者研究的热点,尤其在防护性服装用品方面,和暖通工程领域,都有显著的研究成果。法国迪卡侬集团是法国和欧洲最大的运动用品专业生产商和销售商,并拥有法国第二大的产品开发和设计中心(仅次于雷诺汽车),公司有按成品运动种类分为12个运动激情品牌和按材料功能种类分为5个面料开发品牌。其中很多运动品牌部门以及保暖面料品牌部门希望能通过进行服装体系热舒适性的研究,给其下相应的服装产品推荐一个适宜的使用环境温度范围,旨在为消费者在针对所需运动选择和购买品牌服装时提供引导辅助,同时为品牌和面料开发部门提供一个针对特定运动保证消费者舒适需要的产品研发模型。
本文从简单的以起绒衫为基础的远足服装体系出发,建立了一种室内模拟试验模型。通过进行人体着装运动试验,能够准确地获得人体配置一定服装,在适宜环境下(0摄氏度到20摄氏度内),进行中度运动(小型登山、远足,新陈代谢率低于240W/m~2)时,达到舒适性的条件:我们证明了所使用的两种实验方案的可行性和有效性,发展了一套适合课题的主观评估方法,在客观测量数据和主观评估数据的分析过程中结合了主成分分析法和多元回归理论。
本课题的研究是对人体-服装-环境能量交换与平衡在运动领域的新尝试,将人体工程学和纺织服装物理性能结合,弥补了服装工程和纺织工程领域对服装在运动条件下人体适应性的认识和不足,为进一步建立通过人体的生理学物理参数来预测人体感知的模型作了前期的研究。本文的研究结果对于迪卡侬研发中心的开发和企业战略的发展有着重要的启示作用,满足企业需要,并为服装工程和纺织工程在体育领域的适用推上了一个新阶段。
Thermal comfort is having been an international hot research topic since several decades, especially in the fields of personal protection and building environment, there are many remarkable researchs. DECATHLON has 12 passion brands according to the sports type and 5 material brands according to the material function. A number of these passion brands and the Isolation component brand would like to propose to their garments a thermal-comfort temperature for the real usage. The aims are: to guide the customers in choosing their own garment for the usual practice; to have a reference which permit the brands to develop their product adapting to the usage.
Starting with a simulation of the real usage for little hiking in the climatic chamber, the present work has realized a methodology for determine experimentally the range of thermal comfort for the vestimentary system on the base of polar, for the activity in a modest environment(0°C-20°C) and with a modest effort (short hiking; metabolism less than 240 W/m~2): we have proved the function of two types of test, a method is developed for collection the sensation and the mathematic methods are (Principal Component Analysis, Multiple Regression) applied during the treatment of physical and sensory data.
This work is a valuable effort for applicating heat balance between human-apparel-environment in the sports field, which at the same time combine the ergonomic and the physical properties of clothing. It makes up the lack of knowledge of human adaptation to the sports clothing during activity in fashion and textile engineering. It is an important first step work for predicting the human thermal comfort sensory from the physiological parameters. This thesis and the project help research works and strategy in DECATHLON, and also open a new period of the theoretical study in linking the fashion and textile engineering with the sports use.
本文从简单的以起绒衫为基础的远足服装体系出发,建立了一种室内模拟试验模型。通过进行人体着装运动试验,能够准确地获得人体配置一定服装,在适宜环境下(0摄氏度到20摄氏度内),进行中度运动(小型登山、远足,新陈代谢率低于240W/m~2)时,达到舒适性的条件:我们证明了所使用的两种实验方案的可行性和有效性,发展了一套适合课题的主观评估方法,在客观测量数据和主观评估数据的分析过程中结合了主成分分析法和多元回归理论。
本课题的研究是对人体-服装-环境能量交换与平衡在运动领域的新尝试,将人体工程学和纺织服装物理性能结合,弥补了服装工程和纺织工程领域对服装在运动条件下人体适应性的认识和不足,为进一步建立通过人体的生理学物理参数来预测人体感知的模型作了前期的研究。本文的研究结果对于迪卡侬研发中心的开发和企业战略的发展有着重要的启示作用,满足企业需要,并为服装工程和纺织工程在体育领域的适用推上了一个新阶段。
Thermal comfort is having been an international hot research topic since several decades, especially in the fields of personal protection and building environment, there are many remarkable researchs. DECATHLON has 12 passion brands according to the sports type and 5 material brands according to the material function. A number of these passion brands and the Isolation component brand would like to propose to their garments a thermal-comfort temperature for the real usage. The aims are: to guide the customers in choosing their own garment for the usual practice; to have a reference which permit the brands to develop their product adapting to the usage.
Starting with a simulation of the real usage for little hiking in the climatic chamber, the present work has realized a methodology for determine experimentally the range of thermal comfort for the vestimentary system on the base of polar, for the activity in a modest environment(0°C-20°C) and with a modest effort (short hiking; metabolism less than 240 W/m~2): we have proved the function of two types of test, a method is developed for collection the sensation and the mathematic methods are (Principal Component Analysis, Multiple Regression) applied during the treatment of physical and sensory data.
This work is a valuable effort for applicating heat balance between human-apparel-environment in the sports field, which at the same time combine the ergonomic and the physical properties of clothing. It makes up the lack of knowledge of human adaptation to the sports clothing during activity in fashion and textile engineering. It is an important first step work for predicting the human thermal comfort sensory from the physiological parameters. This thesis and the project help research works and strategy in DECATHLON, and also open a new period of the theoretical study in linking the fashion and textile engineering with the sports use.
引文
[1]原田隆司,衣服内气候与衣着,国外纺织技术,1987(4),P35-46;
[2]原田隆司,土田和义,衣服的舒适性与衣服内的气候,国外丝绸,1992(2),P37-39;
[3]Kim J O,Spivak SM,Dynamic moisture vapor transfer through textile,Text Research Journal,1994,64(2),P112-121;
[4]李栋高,蒋兴,真丝绸服装内小气候状态特征分布,苏州丝绸工学院学报,1994,14(4),P44-50;
[5]朱利军,陈景山,暖体假人着装试验研究,中国纺织大学学报,1999,25(5),P80-82;
[6]杨明英,薛金增,闵思佳,朱良均,服装热湿舒适性的评价方法,科技通报,2002,18(2),P105-109;
[7]李创,服装动态热湿舒适性理论及测试技术概述,北京纺织,第23卷第1期,P47-49;
[8]尹继亮,军服穿着热湿舒适性评价方法的理论与实践,西北纺织工学院硕士学位论文,2000;
[9]姚穆,刘让同,纺织品热阻的研究,西北纺织学院学报,1991年第2、3期;
[10]施嵋梧,纺织材料热是传递性能的物理测试与评价指标,纺织中心期刊,1995,5(5),P378-383;
[11]牛宏颐,人体头部热交换及其着装状态下的热舒适性研究,东华大学服装学院硕士论文,2002;
[12]Moran,D.etal,Validation and Adjustment of the Mathematical Prediction Model for Human Rectal Temperature Responses to Outdoor Environmental Conditions.ERGONOMICS,1995,Vol.38(5),P1011-1018;
[13]ISO 10551:1995(F)Ergonomie des ambiances thermique - Evaluation de 1'influence des ambiances thermique a l'aide d'echelle de jugement subjectifs;
[14]ISO 7730:1994(F)Ambiences thermique modérées-Détermination des indices PMV et PPD et Spécifications des conditions de confort thermique;
[15]张渭源,韩近阳,人工气候条件下的人体着装试验的研究,中国纺织大学学报,1991,2,P72-80;
[16]唐世君,尹继亮,夏季服装热湿舒适性的综合评价,北京服装学院学报,2000,20(1),P36-39;
[17]ISO 8996:1990 Ergonomics-Determination of metabolic heat production;
[18]NF EN ISO 11079:2005 Ergonomics of the thermal environment-Determination and interpretation of cold stress when using required clothing insulation(IREQ)and local cooling effects;
[19]ISO 9920;1995(F)Ergonomie des ambiances thermiques-Determination de l'isolement thermique et de la resistance a l'evaporation d'une tenue vestimentaire;
[20]侯彩虹,崔运花,曾宪奕,丁永生,纺织品感官评估的进展和展望,东华大学学报(自然科学版),2003,29(3),P110-114;
[21]ROSSA Virginie,Proposition d'une demarche d'elaboration de tests d'usage pour la certification ergonomique d'equipement sport individuels,Universite de Bordeaux,2005;
[22]王小兵,黄晨,PMV现场测定方法,http;//www.studa.net/Constructs/060121/16273399.html;
[23]AFNOR ISO 8586-1,感官分析;鉴定员的选择、培训和监督的通用指南。第1部分:鉴定员的选择;
[24]ROSSA Virginie,Procedure de test d'usage,Décathlon research
[2]原田隆司,土田和义,衣服的舒适性与衣服内的气候,国外丝绸,1992(2),P37-39;
[3]Kim J O,Spivak SM,Dynamic moisture vapor transfer through textile,Text Research Journal,1994,64(2),P112-121;
[4]李栋高,蒋兴,真丝绸服装内小气候状态特征分布,苏州丝绸工学院学报,1994,14(4),P44-50;
[5]朱利军,陈景山,暖体假人着装试验研究,中国纺织大学学报,1999,25(5),P80-82;
[6]杨明英,薛金增,闵思佳,朱良均,服装热湿舒适性的评价方法,科技通报,2002,18(2),P105-109;
[7]李创,服装动态热湿舒适性理论及测试技术概述,北京纺织,第23卷第1期,P47-49;
[8]尹继亮,军服穿着热湿舒适性评价方法的理论与实践,西北纺织工学院硕士学位论文,2000;
[9]姚穆,刘让同,纺织品热阻的研究,西北纺织学院学报,1991年第2、3期;
[10]施嵋梧,纺织材料热是传递性能的物理测试与评价指标,纺织中心期刊,1995,5(5),P378-383;
[11]牛宏颐,人体头部热交换及其着装状态下的热舒适性研究,东华大学服装学院硕士论文,2002;
[12]Moran,D.etal,Validation and Adjustment of the Mathematical Prediction Model for Human Rectal Temperature Responses to Outdoor Environmental Conditions.ERGONOMICS,1995,Vol.38(5),P1011-1018;
[13]ISO 10551:1995(F)Ergonomie des ambiances thermique - Evaluation de 1'influence des ambiances thermique a l'aide d'echelle de jugement subjectifs;
[14]ISO 7730:1994(F)Ambiences thermique modérées-Détermination des indices PMV et PPD et Spécifications des conditions de confort thermique;
[15]张渭源,韩近阳,人工气候条件下的人体着装试验的研究,中国纺织大学学报,1991,2,P72-80;
[16]唐世君,尹继亮,夏季服装热湿舒适性的综合评价,北京服装学院学报,2000,20(1),P36-39;
[17]ISO 8996:1990 Ergonomics-Determination of metabolic heat production;
[18]NF EN ISO 11079:2005 Ergonomics of the thermal environment-Determination and interpretation of cold stress when using required clothing insulation(IREQ)and local cooling effects;
[19]ISO 9920;1995(F)Ergonomie des ambiances thermiques-Determination de l'isolement thermique et de la resistance a l'evaporation d'une tenue vestimentaire;
[20]侯彩虹,崔运花,曾宪奕,丁永生,纺织品感官评估的进展和展望,东华大学学报(自然科学版),2003,29(3),P110-114;
[21]ROSSA Virginie,Proposition d'une demarche d'elaboration de tests d'usage pour la certification ergonomique d'equipement sport individuels,Universite de Bordeaux,2005;
[22]王小兵,黄晨,PMV现场测定方法,http;//www.studa.net/Constructs/060121/16273399.html;
[23]AFNOR ISO 8586-1,感官分析;鉴定员的选择、培训和监督的通用指南。第1部分:鉴定员的选择;
[24]ROSSA Virginie,Procedure de test d'usage,Décathlon research