圆型纬编间隔织物的编织工艺和性能研究
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摘要
针织间隔织物分为纬编和经编两类。目前经编间隔织物在服用、装饰用和产业用领域所占的比例都较大。出于环保因素和经编间隔织物本身的性能考虑，国外已经在尝试用经编间隔织物代替聚氨酯泡沫层。与经编间隔织物相比，圆型纬编间隔织物的主要优点在于：织物的纵横向都具有弹性；可以通过选针进行提花编织，使花型图案更加丰富多彩；变换品种较快，生产效率较高。近年来国外圆型纬编间隔织物发展较快，产品已经应用于内衣、坐垫的表面材料、功能性运动装及娱乐用服装等方面，而国内目前有关圆型纬编间隔织物的加工和性能研究还很少。
本课题采用筒径16英寸、机号E22的上二下四多针道双面圆纬机，以涤纶单丝为间隔丝，低弹涤纶长丝作为表面纱线生产圆型纬编间隔织物，通过对圆型纬编间隔织物的基本结构的研究分析，探索了纬编间隔织物在圆纬机上的编织工艺，考察了原料、给纱速度、牵拉张力、弯纱深度、筒口距离的调节对编织过程中织物质量的影响，对生产中较为常见的问题提出了解决方案。
在后整理工艺中通过试验确定了合适的水洗温度和热定型温度，并结合参考文献给出工业化生产的后整理工艺。
本次试织时分别将筒口距离调节为3.6mm和4.6mm两种，另通过改变给纱速度来改变织物的密度，共试织了具有对比性的8种间隔织物，通过试验比较分析了间隔丝细度、织物厚度(筒口距离)和织物密度等结构参数对间隔织物的刚柔性能、折皱弹性、顶破性能、透气性、热湿舒适性能的影响。
通过顶破试验分析了纬编间隔织物顶破曲线和顶破裂口的形状的特点及原因。比较分析了顶破强力产生差异的原因。
在透湿汽量试验的基础上，对织物透湿汽量的影响因素进行了分析，采用多元线性回归方法得出线性回归方程。
纬编间隔织物的压缩性能的探讨也是本文的关键之一。通过对织物的压缩性能测试分析影响其性能差异的原因，并在试验的基础上，采用一元非线性回归方程对间隔织物在被压缩过程中压力与厚度的变化进行拟和，分析压缩弹性曲线的变化规律。另外，通过模仿人们日常的行为对织物进行反复压缩，考察其压缩性能的变化情况。
本课题对圆型纬编间隔织物的生产，应用具有一定的价值。
Knitting spacer fabric can be divided into weft-knitted and warp-knitted. Now warp-knitted spacer fabric is mainly developed in clothing, decoration, and industrial area. Considering environmental protection and performance of warp-knitted spacer fabric, people now try to make use of spacer fabric replace sponge. Compared with warp-knitted spacer fabric, circular weft-knitted spacer fabric has good elastic regardless of weft and warp, it can enrich the structure and form jacquard pattern through selecting needle, has high productivity and product type can be changed quickly. Recently, circular weft-knitted spacer fabric got development quickly and the products have been applied in underwear, surface material of cushion, functional sportswear and leisure clothing and so on. Now there are few research and manufacturing about circular weft-knitted spacer fabric in our country.
In this paper, weft-knitted spacer fabric is produced on a circular knitting machine with 16 inch diameter and 22 gauge using polyester as spacer fiber and low elastic polyester yarn as surface fiber. After analyzing the structural features of fabric, the author explored knitting technology and parameter, investigated the effect of sinking depth, yarn feeding speed, take-up tension and distance between cylinder and dial on fabric quality, and are presented some methods.
In finishing process, appropriate washing temperature and heat set temperature are confirmed. Industrial finishing process is presented in detail referring to documents.
8 types of spacer fabrics are knitted through changing distance between dial and cylinder to make the fabric thick changed and changing speed of yarn feeding to make the fabric density changed. The effect factors of basic fabric performance such as cockle elasticity, air permeability are discussed in detail comparing with basic parameters of fabric including fineness of spacer yarn, fabric density and thickness and the distance.
The feature and reason of bursting curve and split appearance are analyzed in detail. The reason for difference of bursting strength is also discussed in the paper.
On base of air permeability experiment, the author made use of multi-linear regression to analyze effect factors and got the regression equation.
The research on compression performance of weft-knitted spacer fabric is one of the most important work. The reason of difference compression performance about 8 types of fabric are discussed in detail. On base of experiment, the author made use of single unlinear regression to analyze the relation between compress and thickness. In addition through imitating people action in daily life, the author did cyclic compression experiment repeatly and checked the compression performance of the fabric.
The research results of this paper have practical significance in promoting the application and manufacture of the weft-knitted spacer fabric.
本课题采用筒径16英寸、机号E22的上二下四多针道双面圆纬机，以涤纶单丝为间隔丝，低弹涤纶长丝作为表面纱线生产圆型纬编间隔织物，通过对圆型纬编间隔织物的基本结构的研究分析，探索了纬编间隔织物在圆纬机上的编织工艺，考察了原料、给纱速度、牵拉张力、弯纱深度、筒口距离的调节对编织过程中织物质量的影响，对生产中较为常见的问题提出了解决方案。
在后整理工艺中通过试验确定了合适的水洗温度和热定型温度，并结合参考文献给出工业化生产的后整理工艺。
本次试织时分别将筒口距离调节为3.6mm和4.6mm两种，另通过改变给纱速度来改变织物的密度，共试织了具有对比性的8种间隔织物，通过试验比较分析了间隔丝细度、织物厚度(筒口距离)和织物密度等结构参数对间隔织物的刚柔性能、折皱弹性、顶破性能、透气性、热湿舒适性能的影响。
通过顶破试验分析了纬编间隔织物顶破曲线和顶破裂口的形状的特点及原因。比较分析了顶破强力产生差异的原因。
在透湿汽量试验的基础上，对织物透湿汽量的影响因素进行了分析，采用多元线性回归方法得出线性回归方程。
纬编间隔织物的压缩性能的探讨也是本文的关键之一。通过对织物的压缩性能测试分析影响其性能差异的原因，并在试验的基础上，采用一元非线性回归方程对间隔织物在被压缩过程中压力与厚度的变化进行拟和，分析压缩弹性曲线的变化规律。另外，通过模仿人们日常的行为对织物进行反复压缩，考察其压缩性能的变化情况。
本课题对圆型纬编间隔织物的生产，应用具有一定的价值。
Knitting spacer fabric can be divided into weft-knitted and warp-knitted. Now warp-knitted spacer fabric is mainly developed in clothing, decoration, and industrial area. Considering environmental protection and performance of warp-knitted spacer fabric, people now try to make use of spacer fabric replace sponge. Compared with warp-knitted spacer fabric, circular weft-knitted spacer fabric has good elastic regardless of weft and warp, it can enrich the structure and form jacquard pattern through selecting needle, has high productivity and product type can be changed quickly. Recently, circular weft-knitted spacer fabric got development quickly and the products have been applied in underwear, surface material of cushion, functional sportswear and leisure clothing and so on. Now there are few research and manufacturing about circular weft-knitted spacer fabric in our country.
In this paper, weft-knitted spacer fabric is produced on a circular knitting machine with 16 inch diameter and 22 gauge using polyester as spacer fiber and low elastic polyester yarn as surface fiber. After analyzing the structural features of fabric, the author explored knitting technology and parameter, investigated the effect of sinking depth, yarn feeding speed, take-up tension and distance between cylinder and dial on fabric quality, and are presented some methods.
In finishing process, appropriate washing temperature and heat set temperature are confirmed. Industrial finishing process is presented in detail referring to documents.
8 types of spacer fabrics are knitted through changing distance between dial and cylinder to make the fabric thick changed and changing speed of yarn feeding to make the fabric density changed. The effect factors of basic fabric performance such as cockle elasticity, air permeability are discussed in detail comparing with basic parameters of fabric including fineness of spacer yarn, fabric density and thickness and the distance.
The feature and reason of bursting curve and split appearance are analyzed in detail. The reason for difference of bursting strength is also discussed in the paper.
On base of air permeability experiment, the author made use of multi-linear regression to analyze effect factors and got the regression equation.
The research on compression performance of weft-knitted spacer fabric is one of the most important work. The reason of difference compression performance about 8 types of fabric are discussed in detail. On base of experiment, the author made use of single unlinear regression to analyze the relation between compress and thickness. In addition through imitating people action in daily life, the author did cyclic compression experiment repeatly and checked the compression performance of the fabric.
The research results of this paper have practical significance in promoting the application and manufacture of the weft-knitted spacer fabric.
引文
[1] Kunde K , Spacer fabrics - Their application and future opportunities, Melliand International. 2004(10), 284-287
[2] 梁春金译，间隔织物的良好应用前景，国外纺织技术，2001(6)，38-40
[3] 叶晓华，胡红，冯勋伟．经编间隔织物的应用与开发前景，针织工业，2005(2)，1-2
[4] Anand S ,Spacers - At the technical frontier. Knitting-International, 2003(110), 38-41
[5] 宋广礼，车用针织内饰产品设计综述，天津工业大学学报，2002(8)，32—36
[6] Gunnarsson A, Shishoo R. Fabrics replace polyurethane foam in car seat upholstery, Technical-Textiles-International, 2002(11),29-32
[7] Khatwani PA, Desai KS, Recent developments in medical textiles, Textile Asia. 2002(33), 23-24
[8] 蒋高明，李大俊，经编间隔织物的结构与性能，江南大学学报(自然科学版)，2004 (4)，395-398
[9] Kunde K著，针织间隔织物的应用及发展方向，技术创新，2005(4)，25—29
[10] Bridging the gap, Knitting International, 2002,109(1295),20-21
[11] 李大俊，蒋高明，经编间隔织物在医疗和保健领域的应用，产业用纺织品，2003 (10)，20-23
[12] Anand S , Spacers - At the technical frontier. Knitting-International, 2003,110(1305), 38-41
[13] Heide M，具有特殊保护性能的间隔织物，国际纺织导报，2000(3)，52-55
[14] 缪旭红，经编间隔织物在胸罩中的应用与生产，服装技术，2002(11)，33-34
[15] Warp knitted spacer fabrics - Design and application fields, Knitting Technology, 2001, 23 (4), 14-16
[16] Schmidt G．F．著，储有弘译，汽车内使用的具有或不具有装饰面的经编间隔织物，国际纺织导报，2002(5)，31-33
[17] Millington J. Do we have lift off?. Knitting International, 2002,109(1297),31-34
[18] Rieder O, Mock W . Jacquard patterned weft knitted spacer fabrics for upholstery, Knitting Technology, 2003,25(4), 24-25
[19] Gunnarsson A, Shishoo R. Fabrics replace polyurethane foam in car seat upholstery, Technical-Textiles-International, 2002,11(2), 29-32
[20] Anand S ,Spacers - At the technical frontier. Knitting-International, 2003,110(1305), 38-41
[21] Mattresses and seat cushions with thermoregulation. Medical Textiles, 2001, (JUNE), 2
[22] 宋广礼，韦艳华，吴嘉云．玻璃纤维纬编间隔织物的编织与结构研究．纺织学报，2003 23(4)，262-263
[23] Technical circular knits, Knitting International, 2003,110(1306), 39
[24] 龙海如，针织学，2004，中国纺织出版社，北京，178-180
[25] Ultra thick fabric finishing, Knitting International, 2004; 111(1317), 40
[26] Schmutzler T, Colouration and finishing of spacer fabrics, Knitting Technology, 2003,25(6), 36-37
[27] 国家标准局，GB/T13762-92，土工布单位面积质量的测定方法
[28] 于伟东，储才元，纺织物理，2002，东华大学出版社，上海，240—243
[29] 郁崇文，汪军，王新厚，工程参数的最优化设计，2003，东华大学出版社，上海，36-54
[30] 夏风林，经编间隔织物的抗压回弹性研究．纺织学报，2000，24(4)，398—340
[31] Fabrics,Warp-knitted spacer fabrics for pressure relief and prevention,Medical Textiles, 2004, -(FEBRUARY),2
[2] 梁春金译，间隔织物的良好应用前景，国外纺织技术，2001(6)，38-40
[3] 叶晓华，胡红，冯勋伟．经编间隔织物的应用与开发前景，针织工业，2005(2)，1-2
[4] Anand S ,Spacers - At the technical frontier. Knitting-International, 2003(110), 38-41
[5] 宋广礼，车用针织内饰产品设计综述，天津工业大学学报，2002(8)，32—36
[6] Gunnarsson A, Shishoo R. Fabrics replace polyurethane foam in car seat upholstery, Technical-Textiles-International, 2002(11),29-32
[7] Khatwani PA, Desai KS, Recent developments in medical textiles, Textile Asia. 2002(33), 23-24
[8] 蒋高明，李大俊，经编间隔织物的结构与性能，江南大学学报(自然科学版)，2004 (4)，395-398
[9] Kunde K著，针织间隔织物的应用及发展方向，技术创新，2005(4)，25—29
[10] Bridging the gap, Knitting International, 2002,109(1295),20-21
[11] 李大俊，蒋高明，经编间隔织物在医疗和保健领域的应用，产业用纺织品，2003 (10)，20-23
[12] Anand S , Spacers - At the technical frontier. Knitting-International, 2003,110(1305), 38-41
[13] Heide M，具有特殊保护性能的间隔织物，国际纺织导报，2000(3)，52-55
[14] 缪旭红，经编间隔织物在胸罩中的应用与生产，服装技术，2002(11)，33-34
[15] Warp knitted spacer fabrics - Design and application fields, Knitting Technology, 2001, 23 (4), 14-16
[16] Schmidt G．F．著，储有弘译，汽车内使用的具有或不具有装饰面的经编间隔织物，国际纺织导报，2002(5)，31-33
[17] Millington J. Do we have lift off?. Knitting International, 2002,109(1297),31-34
[18] Rieder O, Mock W . Jacquard patterned weft knitted spacer fabrics for upholstery, Knitting Technology, 2003,25(4), 24-25
[19] Gunnarsson A, Shishoo R. Fabrics replace polyurethane foam in car seat upholstery, Technical-Textiles-International, 2002,11(2), 29-32
[20] Anand S ,Spacers - At the technical frontier. Knitting-International, 2003,110(1305), 38-41
[21] Mattresses and seat cushions with thermoregulation. Medical Textiles, 2001, (JUNE), 2
[22] 宋广礼，韦艳华，吴嘉云．玻璃纤维纬编间隔织物的编织与结构研究．纺织学报，2003 23(4)，262-263
[23] Technical circular knits, Knitting International, 2003,110(1306), 39
[24] 龙海如，针织学，2004，中国纺织出版社，北京，178-180
[25] Ultra thick fabric finishing, Knitting International, 2004; 111(1317), 40
[26] Schmutzler T, Colouration and finishing of spacer fabrics, Knitting Technology, 2003,25(6), 36-37
[27] 国家标准局，GB/T13762-92，土工布单位面积质量的测定方法
[28] 于伟东，储才元，纺织物理，2002，东华大学出版社，上海，240—243
[29] 郁崇文，汪军，王新厚，工程参数的最优化设计，2003，东华大学出版社，上海，36-54
[30] 夏风林，经编间隔织物的抗压回弹性研究．纺织学报，2000，24(4)，398—340
[31] Fabrics,Warp-knitted spacer fabrics for pressure relief and prevention,Medical Textiles, 2004, -(FEBRUARY),2