斜纹织物的几何结构研究
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摘要
织物结构研究一直是纺织面料设计人员所关注的,开发新面料的目标就是要在满足市场越来越多元化的前提下,提高纺织品的设计效率和设计质量,降低成本。斜纹织物是应用比较广泛的织物,而它的组织结构相对平纹较复杂,深入细致地对斜纹织物的结构展开研究是很有必要的。
本文主要介绍了对织物结构的研究现状和理论基础,从实际织物入手,选取斜纹织物,对其进行切片试验,在Keyence数字式三维测量显微系统下观测斜纹织物中经纬纱线的真实截面形态,并测得屈曲波高等数据,计算织物的几何结构相等参数,发现斜纹织物的结构相都比较高,经纱的屈曲波高大于纬纱的屈曲波高,由经纱构成织物的支持面,观测大量的织物切片在显微镜下的放大照片,发现斜纹织物中纱线的截面并不如平纹织物那么规则,观测纬向切片发现,织物中长浮长线下的几根经纱相互挤压,几乎成为一个整体,单独的经纱不能再用一个规则的几何形状去描述,并且长浮长线是弯曲状态,不是直线状态。在建立斜纹织物几何结构模型时,从理论上考虑浮长线下的多根纱线用一根比较粗的纱线代替,纱线粗细交替排列,在局部考虑为平纹组织,简化分析难度。
通过观测的斜纹织物的切片图,再结合理论分析,建立了斜纹织物的几何结构模型,分析各参数间的几何关系,得到织物结构参数的估算值,与所测得的对应的结构参数值进行比较,根据差异率的大小,得到相对准确的织物几何结构模型。
The fabric structure research has always been concerned by the textile designers. Under the premise of satisfying increasingly diverse market, the goal of developing new textiles is to improve the efficiency of textile design and design quality, and to reduce costs. Twill fabrics are applied more widely, and their weave structure are more complex than plain fabrics. It is necessary to make further research about twill fabrics structure in detail.
This paper mainly introduces the present research on the fabric structure and theoretical basis. Starting from the actual fabrics, many experiments using solid technology has been made after selecting the twill fabrics. Then we have observed the sectional shapes of warp and weft yarns in fabric, measured the dates like the crimp height under Keyence digital three-dimensional measurement microscopic system. Then the parameters of structure phase in geometry calculate have been calculated. We find that structure phases in geometry of twill fabrics are high. The crimp height of warp is taller than weft. The support surface is constituted by the warp yarn. Observing a large number of magnification photographs of fabric slices in microscope, we find the cross-section of yarns in twill fabrics is not so well-regulated as plain. Through observing the fabrics slices of weft direction, we find that in the fabric a few warp yarns under long floats are mutual extruding, almost as a whole Individual warp yarn can no longer describe as a well-regulated geometry. And the long floats are curved, not line. In establishing twill fabrics geometry model, theoretically considering a thick yarn substitutes for the few yarns under the long floats. Yarn thickness alternating arrangement, considering the plain in local organizations, simplify the analysis of difficulty.
Through observing the section graphs of twill fabrics, twill fabrics geometric models are established with theoretical analysis. We analyze the relationships among the geometric parameters,and obtain the estimated value of fabric structure parameters,. Then compared with measured values of the corresponding structural parameters, We can obtain relatively accurate model of the fabric geometry structure according to the variance ratio.
本文主要介绍了对织物结构的研究现状和理论基础,从实际织物入手,选取斜纹织物,对其进行切片试验,在Keyence数字式三维测量显微系统下观测斜纹织物中经纬纱线的真实截面形态,并测得屈曲波高等数据,计算织物的几何结构相等参数,发现斜纹织物的结构相都比较高,经纱的屈曲波高大于纬纱的屈曲波高,由经纱构成织物的支持面,观测大量的织物切片在显微镜下的放大照片,发现斜纹织物中纱线的截面并不如平纹织物那么规则,观测纬向切片发现,织物中长浮长线下的几根经纱相互挤压,几乎成为一个整体,单独的经纱不能再用一个规则的几何形状去描述,并且长浮长线是弯曲状态,不是直线状态。在建立斜纹织物几何结构模型时,从理论上考虑浮长线下的多根纱线用一根比较粗的纱线代替,纱线粗细交替排列,在局部考虑为平纹组织,简化分析难度。
通过观测的斜纹织物的切片图,再结合理论分析,建立了斜纹织物的几何结构模型,分析各参数间的几何关系,得到织物结构参数的估算值,与所测得的对应的结构参数值进行比较,根据差异率的大小,得到相对准确的织物几何结构模型。
The fabric structure research has always been concerned by the textile designers. Under the premise of satisfying increasingly diverse market, the goal of developing new textiles is to improve the efficiency of textile design and design quality, and to reduce costs. Twill fabrics are applied more widely, and their weave structure are more complex than plain fabrics. It is necessary to make further research about twill fabrics structure in detail.
This paper mainly introduces the present research on the fabric structure and theoretical basis. Starting from the actual fabrics, many experiments using solid technology has been made after selecting the twill fabrics. Then we have observed the sectional shapes of warp and weft yarns in fabric, measured the dates like the crimp height under Keyence digital three-dimensional measurement microscopic system. Then the parameters of structure phase in geometry calculate have been calculated. We find that structure phases in geometry of twill fabrics are high. The crimp height of warp is taller than weft. The support surface is constituted by the warp yarn. Observing a large number of magnification photographs of fabric slices in microscope, we find the cross-section of yarns in twill fabrics is not so well-regulated as plain. Through observing the fabrics slices of weft direction, we find that in the fabric a few warp yarns under long floats are mutual extruding, almost as a whole Individual warp yarn can no longer describe as a well-regulated geometry. And the long floats are curved, not line. In establishing twill fabrics geometry model, theoretically considering a thick yarn substitutes for the few yarns under the long floats. Yarn thickness alternating arrangement, considering the plain in local organizations, simplify the analysis of difficulty.
Through observing the section graphs of twill fabrics, twill fabrics geometric models are established with theoretical analysis. We analyze the relationships among the geometric parameters,and obtain the estimated value of fabric structure parameters,. Then compared with measured values of the corresponding structural parameters, We can obtain relatively accurate model of the fabric geometry structure according to the variance ratio.
引文
[1] Fredrick Tomas Peirce.The Geometry of Cloth Structure[J]. Journal of Textile Institute,1937,(3):45-47.
[2]顾平.纺织品CAD原理与应用[M].北京:中国纺织出版社2005.102.
[3]童小素,张瑞林,李文书.织物外观仿真模拟方法的比较[J].纺织学报, 2006, 8:104-107.
[4]郑天勇,黄故.机织物结构的计算.天津工业学报[J],2002,21(2):12-16.
[5]张瑞云,黄新林,李汝勤.机织物的计算机三维模拟[J].纺织学报,2005, 26(1): 62-69.
[6]谢光银.机织物设计原理[M].北京:化学工业出版社,2005:1.
[7]贺显伟,汪军.织物组织几何模型及其在织物外观模拟上的应用[J].纺织导报,2003,6:114-116.
[8]雷利照.织物的几何结构与规格参数确定[J].上海纺织科技,2008,36(6):8-10.
[9]王彦欣,刘让同.机织物外观模拟技术及其实现方法[J].毛纺科技,2006,2:54-58.
[10]李茂松,周华.丝织物紧度与织性图的应用[J].浙江丝绸工学院院报,1985,2:1-9.
[11] A.Kemp. An extension of Peirce's Cloth Geometry to the Treatment of Non-circular Threads[J].Journal of Textile Institute,1958,(49):45.
[12] JinLianHu. Theories of wbven Fabrie Geometry[J].Textile Aisa,1995,(1):56-60.
[13] P.Ellis.“Woven Fabric is Geometry Past and Present”Part I[J]. Textile Institute and Industry.August 1974,244-247.
[14] P.Ellis.“Woven Fabric is Geometry Past and Present”Part II[J].Textile Institute and Industry, October, 1974, 303-306.
[15]王彦欣,刘让同.利用切片技术测试织物几何结构参数[J].棉纺织技术,2006,34(11):12-15.
[16] Kawabata S,Niwa M and Kawai H. The Biaxial-deformation Theory[J].Text Inst,1973,64:21.
[17] Kawabata S,Niwa M and Kawai H. The Uniaxial-deformation Theory. [J] Text lnst,1973,64:47.
[18]王府梅.低负荷范围内织物的双轴向伸长特性的理论计算方法[J].纤维学会志(日本),1997,(2):53-61.
[19]蔡陛霞.织物结构与设计[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2004.187.
[20]李述文.机织物中纱线压扁变形的研讨[J].棉纺织技术,1982,1:22-24.
[21]郭兴峰,黄故,马崇启,林国才.机织物结构及其极限密度的研究[J].纺织学报,1998,19(5):285-287.
[22]徐广标,邱茂伟,王府梅.精纺毛织物的孔隙与结构及透气性的关系[J].毛纺科技,2005,04:14-17.
[23]瞿才新.干爽织物中织物几何结构的选择[J].丝绸,2006,9:37-39.
[24]雷利照.织物的几何结构与规格参数确定[J].上海纺织科技,2008,36(6):8-10.
[25]吴汉金.织物几何概念的应用[J].上海纺织工学院学报,1979,3:41-46.
[26]谢光银.机织物设计原理[M]..北京:化学工业出版社,2005.7.
[27]黄凯娟.织物特征参数的确定和应用[J].北京纺织,1996,5:23-29.
[28]李捷.织物组织结构分类新探[J].中国纺织大学学报,1999:25(1):60-60.
[29]于伟东,储才元.纺织物理[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2001.
[30]吴汉金,郑佩芳.机织物结构设计原理[M]上海:同济大学出版社,1990.
[31]杨捷频.常规石蜡切片方法的改良[J].生物学杂志,2006:23(1):45-46.
[32]王彦欣.基于结构特性的机织物计算机仿真模拟[D].西安:西安工程大学,2006.
[33]顾平.织物结构与设计学[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2004.
[2]顾平.纺织品CAD原理与应用[M].北京:中国纺织出版社2005.102.
[3]童小素,张瑞林,李文书.织物外观仿真模拟方法的比较[J].纺织学报, 2006, 8:104-107.
[4]郑天勇,黄故.机织物结构的计算.天津工业学报[J],2002,21(2):12-16.
[5]张瑞云,黄新林,李汝勤.机织物的计算机三维模拟[J].纺织学报,2005, 26(1): 62-69.
[6]谢光银.机织物设计原理[M].北京:化学工业出版社,2005:1.
[7]贺显伟,汪军.织物组织几何模型及其在织物外观模拟上的应用[J].纺织导报,2003,6:114-116.
[8]雷利照.织物的几何结构与规格参数确定[J].上海纺织科技,2008,36(6):8-10.
[9]王彦欣,刘让同.机织物外观模拟技术及其实现方法[J].毛纺科技,2006,2:54-58.
[10]李茂松,周华.丝织物紧度与织性图的应用[J].浙江丝绸工学院院报,1985,2:1-9.
[11] A.Kemp. An extension of Peirce's Cloth Geometry to the Treatment of Non-circular Threads[J].Journal of Textile Institute,1958,(49):45.
[12] JinLianHu. Theories of wbven Fabrie Geometry[J].Textile Aisa,1995,(1):56-60.
[13] P.Ellis.“Woven Fabric is Geometry Past and Present”Part I[J]. Textile Institute and Industry.August 1974,244-247.
[14] P.Ellis.“Woven Fabric is Geometry Past and Present”Part II[J].Textile Institute and Industry, October, 1974, 303-306.
[15]王彦欣,刘让同.利用切片技术测试织物几何结构参数[J].棉纺织技术,2006,34(11):12-15.
[16] Kawabata S,Niwa M and Kawai H. The Biaxial-deformation Theory[J].Text Inst,1973,64:21.
[17] Kawabata S,Niwa M and Kawai H. The Uniaxial-deformation Theory. [J] Text lnst,1973,64:47.
[18]王府梅.低负荷范围内织物的双轴向伸长特性的理论计算方法[J].纤维学会志(日本),1997,(2):53-61.
[19]蔡陛霞.织物结构与设计[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2004.187.
[20]李述文.机织物中纱线压扁变形的研讨[J].棉纺织技术,1982,1:22-24.
[21]郭兴峰,黄故,马崇启,林国才.机织物结构及其极限密度的研究[J].纺织学报,1998,19(5):285-287.
[22]徐广标,邱茂伟,王府梅.精纺毛织物的孔隙与结构及透气性的关系[J].毛纺科技,2005,04:14-17.
[23]瞿才新.干爽织物中织物几何结构的选择[J].丝绸,2006,9:37-39.
[24]雷利照.织物的几何结构与规格参数确定[J].上海纺织科技,2008,36(6):8-10.
[25]吴汉金.织物几何概念的应用[J].上海纺织工学院学报,1979,3:41-46.
[26]谢光银.机织物设计原理[M]..北京:化学工业出版社,2005.7.
[27]黄凯娟.织物特征参数的确定和应用[J].北京纺织,1996,5:23-29.
[28]李捷.织物组织结构分类新探[J].中国纺织大学学报,1999:25(1):60-60.
[29]于伟东,储才元.纺织物理[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2001.
[30]吴汉金,郑佩芳.机织物结构设计原理[M]上海:同济大学出版社,1990.
[31]杨捷频.常规石蜡切片方法的改良[J].生物学杂志,2006:23(1):45-46.
[32]王彦欣.基于结构特性的机织物计算机仿真模拟[D].西安:西安工程大学,2006.
[33]顾平.织物结构与设计学[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2004.