复缫丝及其织物特性研究及产品开发
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摘要
材料革命是纺织面料创新的基础。复合纺织材料及其产品已成为当前世界纺织品发展的主流。开发具有真丝特色的新型复合纤维材料，对于克服“纯”丝绸产品的弱点，改善服用性能，增添功能性产品，符合当今消费者对天然、时尚、功能、高档的崇尚追求。
本研究所开发的真丝纤维与不同牵伸性的舒适性纤维材料和不同热收缩性新合纤纤维平行复合的新型高档含丝复合纤维材料，是在缫丝过程中采用新一代缫丝复合加工技术加工完成的。应用该类新型纤维，既可以赋予丝绸产品良好的功能特性，又可以基本保持真丝绸的风格特色。这些都是目前其它纤维无法比拟的。用该类原料开发的新型面料具有良好的弹性、舒适性和抗皱性。经由本研究开发的染整、印花和后整理工艺处理，织物色牢度好，尺寸变化率小，门幅稳定。这将为我国丝绸行业的发展提供新的思路。
Material revolution is the basis of fabric design and innovation. Composite fiber and its fabrics are the leading products in the current textile development. To develop new composite fiber contg. Silk, which is improved in wearability and has multi-function, is to cater for nowadays customers' need for nature, fashion, function and high grade.
In this paper, a new high-grade composite fiber contg. Silk made from real silk and synthetic fibers is studied. This composite fiber contg. Silk is developed by new composite reeling processing technique. The fabric made of this fiber is characteristic of silk function and style, so that it is superior to any other fabrics. This fabric is of high elasticity, comfort and crease resistance. The dying, fishing and other post processing researched in this paper can make this fabric fast in color and stable in dimension. A new idea is put up with for the development of silk industry in our country.
本研究所开发的真丝纤维与不同牵伸性的舒适性纤维材料和不同热收缩性新合纤纤维平行复合的新型高档含丝复合纤维材料，是在缫丝过程中采用新一代缫丝复合加工技术加工完成的。应用该类新型纤维，既可以赋予丝绸产品良好的功能特性，又可以基本保持真丝绸的风格特色。这些都是目前其它纤维无法比拟的。用该类原料开发的新型面料具有良好的弹性、舒适性和抗皱性。经由本研究开发的染整、印花和后整理工艺处理，织物色牢度好，尺寸变化率小，门幅稳定。这将为我国丝绸行业的发展提供新的思路。
Material revolution is the basis of fabric design and innovation. Composite fiber and its fabrics are the leading products in the current textile development. To develop new composite fiber contg. Silk, which is improved in wearability and has multi-function, is to cater for nowadays customers' need for nature, fashion, function and high grade.
In this paper, a new high-grade composite fiber contg. Silk made from real silk and synthetic fibers is studied. This composite fiber contg. Silk is developed by new composite reeling processing technique. The fabric made of this fiber is characteristic of silk function and style, so that it is superior to any other fabrics. This fabric is of high elasticity, comfort and crease resistance. The dying, fishing and other post processing researched in this paper can make this fabric fast in color and stable in dimension. A new idea is put up with for the development of silk industry in our country.
引文
1．周宏湘 徐辉编著 含蚕丝复合纤维的纺织和染整 中国纺织出版社 1-2
2. Akai H. Experientia, 1983, 39, 443
3．钱国坻，梅士英等，纺织学报，1981，2，2
4. Lots B, Cesari F C. Biochimie, 1979, 61, 205
5．王家昭 孙宗轩 纪永玲编 氨纶弹力丝生产及其应用 纺织工业出版社 17
6．沈云岳 胡飞宇 俞建成等 缫丝复合纤维特性及织物风格研究 《丝绸》2002，8，7-9
2. Akai H. Experientia, 1983, 39, 443
3．钱国坻，梅士英等，纺织学报，1981，2，2
4. Lots B, Cesari F C. Biochimie, 1979, 61, 205
5．王家昭 孙宗轩 纪永玲编 氨纶弹力丝生产及其应用 纺织工业出版社 17
6．沈云岳 胡飞宇 俞建成等 缫丝复合纤维特性及织物风格研究 《丝绸》2002，8，7-9