肢体残疾人服装的穿脱性研究
摘要
本文通过对残疾人概念的分析,了解残疾人种类,从中确定研究类别,分析研究目的及现状,及目前肢体残疾人服装存在的问题以及解决的途径,说明本次研究的内容、方法。
首先,说明所要研究的肢体残疾人的基本状况,了解其概念及分类标准,根据调研结果说明研究对象,从目前各国已研究的肢体残疾人专用产品的角度,分析产品的功能性及设计角度。
其次,针对肢体残疾人服装设计影响因素的说明,简要说明需思考的问题,以及在舒适性方面,根据调研结果,给予肢体残疾人服装面料的结论性建议,在功能性方面说明肢体残疾人穿脱服装时经常遇到的问题,说明本研究主要针对肢体残疾人服装的穿脱性进行研究,以及在美观个性方面肢体残疾人服装所需的设计,说明本次的设计方法。
再次,说明影响肢体残疾人服装穿脱性的因素,对正常人体及被研究的肢体残疾人体进行对比,分析肢体残疾人穿脱服装的问题。根据调研结果得出的肢体残疾人服装最需要解决的三个方面的穿脱问题:针对紧固件问题,通过调研结果,分析紧固件的特点要求,基本选出较适宜肢体残疾人使用的紧固件种类;开襟方向的问题,同样将调研结果的几个方面进行分析,设计出较适合肢体残疾人服装的开襟方向;对于服装宽松度问题,通过调研及分析,针对这些问题进行服装宽松度的设计。并将以上三点设计同时使用在服装上,以保证肢体残疾人服装穿脱性的完整实现,同时进行服装的展示,直观的说明肢体残疾人服装穿脱性问题的解决方式。
最后,总结研究成果,说明研究过程中遇到的问题,以及未解决的问题,展望研究前景,给予此后研究的方向性意见。
In this paper, an analysis of the concept of people with disabilities, people with disabilities to understand the types of research to determine the type, purpose and analysis of the status quo, and the current existence of the physically disabled, as well as clothing solution means that the content of this study, methods.
First of all, the description of the body to study the basic situation of persons with disabilities to understand their concept and classification standards, according to research study results indicate that, from the current study countries have special products physically disabled persons perspective, the functional analysis of product and design perspective.
Secondly, the costume design for the physically disabled of the impact of factors that need to think about a brief description of the problem, as well as in comfort, according to research results, to give people with physical fabric of the conclusions suggested that aspects of functional wear that physically disabled persons clothing from the problems often encountered in the present study for the physically disabled from wearing apparel to carry out research, as well as the personality aspects of physically attractive people with the required design clothing to illustrate the design method.
Third, a description of the physically disabled from wearing clothing of factors, and the study of normal human body compared with the disabled body, analysis of physically disabled persons the issue of clothing to wear off. According to research results of the physically disabled persons most in need of clothing to resolve the three aspects of the issue of wearing off:Fasteners for the problem, through research findings, analysis of the characteristics of fastener requirements, basic elect the use of physically disabled persons is more appropriate for the types of fasteners; cardigan direction, the same research results to an analysis of several aspects, design is more suitable for the physically disabled cardigan apparel direction; for flexible clothing issues, through research and analysis to address these problems the design of flexible clothing. At the same time, more than three points will be used in apparel design in order to ensure that physically disabled persons from wearing clothing of a complete realization of the display of clothing at the same time, an intuitive description of the physically disabled to wear clothing from the solution of the problem.
Finally, the summary of research results to illustrate the course of the study the problems encountered, as well as unresolved issues and look forward to study the prospects to give their views since the direction of research.
首先,说明所要研究的肢体残疾人的基本状况,了解其概念及分类标准,根据调研结果说明研究对象,从目前各国已研究的肢体残疾人专用产品的角度,分析产品的功能性及设计角度。
其次,针对肢体残疾人服装设计影响因素的说明,简要说明需思考的问题,以及在舒适性方面,根据调研结果,给予肢体残疾人服装面料的结论性建议,在功能性方面说明肢体残疾人穿脱服装时经常遇到的问题,说明本研究主要针对肢体残疾人服装的穿脱性进行研究,以及在美观个性方面肢体残疾人服装所需的设计,说明本次的设计方法。
再次,说明影响肢体残疾人服装穿脱性的因素,对正常人体及被研究的肢体残疾人体进行对比,分析肢体残疾人穿脱服装的问题。根据调研结果得出的肢体残疾人服装最需要解决的三个方面的穿脱问题:针对紧固件问题,通过调研结果,分析紧固件的特点要求,基本选出较适宜肢体残疾人使用的紧固件种类;开襟方向的问题,同样将调研结果的几个方面进行分析,设计出较适合肢体残疾人服装的开襟方向;对于服装宽松度问题,通过调研及分析,针对这些问题进行服装宽松度的设计。并将以上三点设计同时使用在服装上,以保证肢体残疾人服装穿脱性的完整实现,同时进行服装的展示,直观的说明肢体残疾人服装穿脱性问题的解决方式。
最后,总结研究成果,说明研究过程中遇到的问题,以及未解决的问题,展望研究前景,给予此后研究的方向性意见。
In this paper, an analysis of the concept of people with disabilities, people with disabilities to understand the types of research to determine the type, purpose and analysis of the status quo, and the current existence of the physically disabled, as well as clothing solution means that the content of this study, methods.
First of all, the description of the body to study the basic situation of persons with disabilities to understand their concept and classification standards, according to research study results indicate that, from the current study countries have special products physically disabled persons perspective, the functional analysis of product and design perspective.
Secondly, the costume design for the physically disabled of the impact of factors that need to think about a brief description of the problem, as well as in comfort, according to research results, to give people with physical fabric of the conclusions suggested that aspects of functional wear that physically disabled persons clothing from the problems often encountered in the present study for the physically disabled from wearing apparel to carry out research, as well as the personality aspects of physically attractive people with the required design clothing to illustrate the design method.
Third, a description of the physically disabled from wearing clothing of factors, and the study of normal human body compared with the disabled body, analysis of physically disabled persons the issue of clothing to wear off. According to research results of the physically disabled persons most in need of clothing to resolve the three aspects of the issue of wearing off:Fasteners for the problem, through research findings, analysis of the characteristics of fastener requirements, basic elect the use of physically disabled persons is more appropriate for the types of fasteners; cardigan direction, the same research results to an analysis of several aspects, design is more suitable for the physically disabled cardigan apparel direction; for flexible clothing issues, through research and analysis to address these problems the design of flexible clothing. At the same time, more than three points will be used in apparel design in order to ensure that physically disabled persons from wearing clothing of a complete realization of the display of clothing at the same time, an intuitive description of the physically disabled to wear clothing from the solution of the problem.
Finally, the summary of research results to illustrate the course of the study the problems encountered, as well as unresolved issues and look forward to study the prospects to give their views since the direction of research.
引文
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10.曹海建,钱坤,盛东晓.浅谈服装面料的穿着舒适性[J].纺织科技进展,2008
11.梁惠娥,张红宇,王鸿博等.服装面料艺术再造[M].中国纺织出版社,2008.22-23
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13.苏丹,徐军.残疾人服装设计与服装人体工程学[J].陕西纺织,2005(2)
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15.苗莉,王文革.服装心理学[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2002:108
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20.刘晓刚,崔玉梅.基础服装设计[M].东华大学出版社,2003
21.徐本明,J一伯坦.我国主要残疾标准中肢体残疾标准相关性研究[M].中国康复理论与实践,2004(10,12)
22.刘观庆.从关怀设计到通用设计[M].无锡轻工大学学报(社会利一学版),2000,11
23.刘静.浅谈国内外无障碍设计的发展[M].安徽建筑,2002,l
24.王宏代,汪学骞.服饰面料功能性研究──服饰面料透湿性能实验分析[J].安徽机电学院学报, 1995,1
25.李勇.浅谈服装材料的舒适性[J].北京纺织,2004,3
26.张柱.服装热湿舒适性和材料的热湿传递特性[J].广西纺织科技,1996,2
27.袁观洛,徐和春.服装材料湿热舒适性测试仪器的动态与典型仪器的分析[J].现代纺织技术,1994,1
28.秦世福.什么是舒适性——心理学家谈服装舒适性[J].国外纺织技术,1986,17
29.E·E·Clulow,吴文兰.防护服装和舒适性[J].产业用纺织品,1986,03
30.邱冠雄.针织服装穿着舒适性的研究综述[J].针织工业,1990,02
31.Goteborg.Systems approach to clothing for disabled users.Why is it difficult for disabled users to find suitable clothing[J].Sweden: Elsevier Science Ltd,1996
32.wietojerska. The role of anthropometry in design of work and life environments of the disabled population[J]. Warsaw, Poland:Elsevier Science B.V,1996
33.Karunakaran Kalinathana, Derrick P. DesRochesa, Xiaorong Liua and Peter G. Pickup. Anthraquinone modified carbon fabric supercapacitors with improved energy and power densities[J]. Canada: Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved,2008
34.A.P. Harsha, and Sanjeev Kumar Jha. Erosive wear studies of epoxy-based composites at normal incidence[J]. Varanasi:Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved,2008
35.李俊,吴海燕,王云仪.Skin Sensitive Difference of Human Body Sections underClothing—Smirnov Test of Skin Surface Temperatures' Dynamic Changing[J]Journal of Donghua University, 2004,06
36.Harnett. P R. A Survey and Comparison of Laboratory Test Methods for Measuring Wicking [J].Textile Research Journal,1984,7:471-478
37. LI Y, LUO Z X. Physical mechanisms of moisture diffusion into hygroscopic fabrics during humidity transients [J].Te xtil e Inst,2000,21:302-316
38.FARNWORTH B. Mechanics of heat flow through clothing insulation[J].T e xtil e Re s J, 1983,53:717-725
2. B.Grassrck著,姚怡译.为生理有障碍者设计的有障碍服装[J].国际防止期刊,1998
3.中国残疾人联合会.关于统一制发中华人民共和国残疾人证的通知[S].残联组联字第61号,1995
4.佚名.国外发明家为残疾人设计的超酷轮椅[EB/OL]. http://info.toys.hc360.com/2006/04/29083435321.shtml,2006-4-29
5.佚名.为残疾人旅游设计的旅行车[EB/OL]. http://www.uutuu.com/fotolog/photo/51098,2002
6.佚名.美:手摇式自行车专为残疾人设计[EB/OL]. http://www.2000888.com/hqjj/20050202392748.htm,2005-02-22
7.佚名.为残疾人所设计的钢笔[EB/OL]. http://www.elanso.com/ArticleModule/SsUUHQSOW6UUPUSENiR6M6Ii.html,2005
8.佚名.专为残疾人开发的数字技术[EB/OL]. http://tech.163.com/07/0706/09/3IN7QL8N000926PT.html
9.佚名.天津地铁专为残疾人设计的垂直电梯即将启用[EB/OL]. http://www.gongkong.com/market/detail.asp?id=9455
10.曹海建,钱坤,盛东晓.浅谈服装面料的穿着舒适性[J].纺织科技进展,2008
11.梁惠娥,张红宇,王鸿博等.服装面料艺术再造[M].中国纺织出版社,2008.22-23
12.李明.肢体残障者服装研究与设计[D].上海.东华大学纺织服装学院,2007
13.苏丹,徐军.残疾人服装设计与服装人体工程学[J].陕西纺织,2005(2)
14. http://gerenyonhu.fzfuliao.com/search.asp
15.苗莉,王文革.服装心理学[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2002:108
16.李正.服装学概论[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2007:3
17.陈东生.服装卫生学[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2000:5-8.
18.侯作前,潘爱叶,陈菊香.残疾人权益保障[M].北京:机械工业出版社,2004:2
19.成秀光(韩).服装环境学[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,1999:4-5.
20.刘晓刚,崔玉梅.基础服装设计[M].东华大学出版社,2003
21.徐本明,J一伯坦.我国主要残疾标准中肢体残疾标准相关性研究[M].中国康复理论与实践,2004(10,12)
22.刘观庆.从关怀设计到通用设计[M].无锡轻工大学学报(社会利一学版),2000,11
23.刘静.浅谈国内外无障碍设计的发展[M].安徽建筑,2002,l
24.王宏代,汪学骞.服饰面料功能性研究──服饰面料透湿性能实验分析[J].安徽机电学院学报, 1995,1
25.李勇.浅谈服装材料的舒适性[J].北京纺织,2004,3
26.张柱.服装热湿舒适性和材料的热湿传递特性[J].广西纺织科技,1996,2
27.袁观洛,徐和春.服装材料湿热舒适性测试仪器的动态与典型仪器的分析[J].现代纺织技术,1994,1
28.秦世福.什么是舒适性——心理学家谈服装舒适性[J].国外纺织技术,1986,17
29.E·E·Clulow,吴文兰.防护服装和舒适性[J].产业用纺织品,1986,03
30.邱冠雄.针织服装穿着舒适性的研究综述[J].针织工业,1990,02
31.Goteborg.Systems approach to clothing for disabled users.Why is it difficult for disabled users to find suitable clothing[J].Sweden: Elsevier Science Ltd,1996
32.wietojerska. The role of anthropometry in design of work and life environments of the disabled population[J]. Warsaw, Poland:Elsevier Science B.V,1996
33.Karunakaran Kalinathana, Derrick P. DesRochesa, Xiaorong Liua and Peter G. Pickup. Anthraquinone modified carbon fabric supercapacitors with improved energy and power densities[J]. Canada: Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved,2008
34.A.P. Harsha, and Sanjeev Kumar Jha. Erosive wear studies of epoxy-based composites at normal incidence[J]. Varanasi:Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved,2008
35.李俊,吴海燕,王云仪.Skin Sensitive Difference of Human Body Sections underClothing—Smirnov Test of Skin Surface Temperatures' Dynamic Changing[J]Journal of Donghua University, 2004,06
36.Harnett. P R. A Survey and Comparison of Laboratory Test Methods for Measuring Wicking [J].Textile Research Journal,1984,7:471-478
37. LI Y, LUO Z X. Physical mechanisms of moisture diffusion into hygroscopic fabrics during humidity transients [J].Te xtil e Inst,2000,21:302-316
38.FARNWORTH B. Mechanics of heat flow through clothing insulation[J].T e xtil e Re s J, 1983,53:717-725