男性双腋杖残障者西装结构研究
摘要
在国家发展和进步的同时,残障人士的生活状态也在不断的发展变化。在部分领域里,残障者和普通人一样参与日常的社会工作,履行社会义务,在着装方面必然也要遵循大众普遍遵循的穿着规则,例如正式场合或部分办公环境下需要穿着西装,打领带。但残障者因在体型上与健全人的差异,致使他们对常规的服装有了各种特殊的需求。而西装作为合体、严谨的一种服装样式,对体型要求较为苛刻,给残障者的穿着带来了严重的困扰和诸多的不变。
本文针对残障者的着装现状和社会需求,提出男性双腋杖残障者西装结构研究这一课题。采用实地调查、问卷和访谈等方式,搜集研究对象对穿着西装的意见和需求。根据调研数据,总结目前男性双腋杖残障者穿着西装所存在的问题;并通过实际的人体测量了解研究对象的体型变化,提出修正西装结构的部位,采用个案的实验性操作对其穿着效果及适体度进行评价、分析,最终得到适合双腋杖残障者体型需求的西装板型设计和修正方法。
In national development and progress at the same time, disable person’s life have been greatly changed. Most of the physically handicapped persons has entered the community, and normal work and life. They also need to follow suit and wearing occasions dress in the right requirements. For example, they have to wear a suit in some occasion. They have a wide variety of clothing special requirements because of physical changes. But the suit as a fit, a strict clothing style, body shape variation for pairs of axillary stick wearing a normal suit disabled people unable to meet quite broad, beautiful, generous results.
In this paper,aimed at the current status and needs of the community had made Man’s Crutch Handicap Suit Pattern Research of this subject. Based on the research data had made summary of issues with crutch handicap man’s suit; And through understanding of the actual anthropometric study of size changes in the structure proposed amendments to suit the site, ultimately making through case-like clothing in the actual operation and effectiveness of their dress and proper body to conduct the evaluation and analysis.
本文针对残障者的着装现状和社会需求,提出男性双腋杖残障者西装结构研究这一课题。采用实地调查、问卷和访谈等方式,搜集研究对象对穿着西装的意见和需求。根据调研数据,总结目前男性双腋杖残障者穿着西装所存在的问题;并通过实际的人体测量了解研究对象的体型变化,提出修正西装结构的部位,采用个案的实验性操作对其穿着效果及适体度进行评价、分析,最终得到适合双腋杖残障者体型需求的西装板型设计和修正方法。
In national development and progress at the same time, disable person’s life have been greatly changed. Most of the physically handicapped persons has entered the community, and normal work and life. They also need to follow suit and wearing occasions dress in the right requirements. For example, they have to wear a suit in some occasion. They have a wide variety of clothing special requirements because of physical changes. But the suit as a fit, a strict clothing style, body shape variation for pairs of axillary stick wearing a normal suit disabled people unable to meet quite broad, beautiful, generous results.
In this paper,aimed at the current status and needs of the community had made Man’s Crutch Handicap Suit Pattern Research of this subject. Based on the research data had made summary of issues with crutch handicap man’s suit; And through understanding of the actual anthropometric study of size changes in the structure proposed amendments to suit the site, ultimately making through case-like clothing in the actual operation and effectiveness of their dress and proper body to conduct the evaluation and analysis.
引文
[1]徐本明,丁伯坦.我国主要残疾标准中肢体残疾标准相关性研究[J].中国康复理论与实践,2004,10(12):790-791.
[2]梁惠娥,吴雪荣.我国肢体残疾人服装的研究现状及前景[J].武汉科技学院学报,2008,21(4):45-48.
[3]苏丹,徐军.残疾人服装设计与服装人体工程学[J].陕西纺织,2005,2:34-35.
[4]唐虹,沈晔.服装障碍者服装结构解析[J].纺织学报,2004,25(4).:69-70.
[5]朱本浩.残疾人的心理特征.[J].中国社区医师.2005(10):102-103.
[6]顾韵芬,徐增美.特殊体型的解构设计[J].丹东纺专学报,1997,(3): 8-10.
[7]钟安华,姚艺伟.服装舒适性与特殊体型衣身结构处理[J].武汉科技学院学报,2006,19(4): 4-7.
[8]张跃.特体服装的解构与弊病修正[J].吉林工程技术师范学院学报(工程技术版),2003,19(9):11-13.
[9]赵欲晓,关雅欣.男西服后背合体性研究[J].纺织导报,2004,(04):97-99.
[10]胡秀琴.西服袖子美观适体初探[J].常州技术师范学院学报.2002,8(1)34-35.
[11]庹武,刘庆.基于人体工效学的轮椅使用者服装的结构研究[J].上海纺织科技—服装,2OO4,32(6):44-46
[12]刘志泉.我国肢体残疾人概况[J].中国康复医学杂志,2003,8(18):23-25.
[13]吴清平,裴泓.肢体残疾成年人社会关系和社会支持状况配对研究[J].中国康复,1997,12(4):168-170.
[14]易冬秀.浅谈肢体残疾患者的康复护理[J].长沙民政职业技术学院学报,2004,12(8)46-48.
[15]吴慧雯.胸围、臂根围与袖窿深相关关系的比较[J].武汉科技学院学报,2005,18(12):3-4.
[16]徐继红,张文斌,杨子田.男西服后身板型合理化研究[J].东华大学学报(自然科学版),2004,30(1):62-65.
[17]李明.肢体残障者服装研究与设计[D].上海:东华大学,2007.
[18]周丽华.基于参数化特征的衣袖结构技术研究[D].上海:东华大学,2005.
[19]赵晓敏.平衡与人体动静态的上装结构配伍技术研究[D].上海:东华大学, 2007.
[20]张文斌,方方.服装人体工效学[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2008:56-72.
[21]中泽愈.人体与服装[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2003: 156-159.
[22]许星,吴经熊.高级服装领/袖打扮技术全篇[M].上海:上海文化出版社,2003:70-89.
[23]张文献.服装结构设计[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2006: 67-78.
[24]刘瑞璞.服装纸样设计原理与制版技术(男装篇)[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2005:70-86.
[25]潘健华.服装人体工效学与服装设计[M].北京:中国轻工业出版社,2000:28-45.
[26]张文斌.服装工艺学(结构设计分册)[M].北京:中国纺织出版社(第三版),2006:3-62.
[27] [日]三吉满智子.服装造型学(理论篇)[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2006:24-52.
[28]第二次全国残疾人抽样调查残疾标准,中国残疾人,2005,5:8.
[29] Naomi Reich,Elizabeth Shannon.Common Physical Limitations and Clothing-Related Needs[J].Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal,1980,8(6):437-444.
[30] Helena M. de Klerk,Lucy Ampousah.The Physically Disablesd South African Female Consumer’s Problems in Purchasing Clothing[J].International Journal of Consumer Studies,2002,26(2):93-101.
[31] B.L.Feather,J.W.Vann,P.B.O’Bannon.Clothing-related risk perceptions of disabled men and women at point of purchase[J].Journal of Consumer Studies and Home Economics,1989,13:313-326.
[32] C.M.Freeman et al.Perceptions of functional clothing by able-bodied people: the other side[J].Journal of Consumer Studies and Home Economics,1987,11:345-358.
[33] Marianne Thoren.Systems approach to clothing for disabled users.Why is it difficult for disabled users to find suitable clothing[J].ELSEVIER,1996,27(6):389-396.
[34] Helena M. de Klerk,Lucy Ampousah,The physically disabled South African female consumer’s problems in purchasing clothing[J].International Journal of Consumer Studies,2002,26(2): 93-101.
[35] Katherine Emma Carroll.INNOWATIONS AND IMPROVISATIONS:A STUDY IN SPECIALIZED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT FOCUSED ON BUSINESS CLOTHING FOR WOMEN WITH PHYSICAL[D].United States:Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University,2001.
[36] M.Dolores Quinn,Renee Weiss Chase.Design Without Limits,Simplicity Pattern Co.Inc.New York,1990.
[37] http://www.easyaccessclothing.com
[38] http://www.anitavee.com
[39] http://www.conformuk.com
[40] http://www.benefitsnowshop.co.uk
[41] http:// www.speciallyforyou.net
[2]梁惠娥,吴雪荣.我国肢体残疾人服装的研究现状及前景[J].武汉科技学院学报,2008,21(4):45-48.
[3]苏丹,徐军.残疾人服装设计与服装人体工程学[J].陕西纺织,2005,2:34-35.
[4]唐虹,沈晔.服装障碍者服装结构解析[J].纺织学报,2004,25(4).:69-70.
[5]朱本浩.残疾人的心理特征.[J].中国社区医师.2005(10):102-103.
[6]顾韵芬,徐增美.特殊体型的解构设计[J].丹东纺专学报,1997,(3): 8-10.
[7]钟安华,姚艺伟.服装舒适性与特殊体型衣身结构处理[J].武汉科技学院学报,2006,19(4): 4-7.
[8]张跃.特体服装的解构与弊病修正[J].吉林工程技术师范学院学报(工程技术版),2003,19(9):11-13.
[9]赵欲晓,关雅欣.男西服后背合体性研究[J].纺织导报,2004,(04):97-99.
[10]胡秀琴.西服袖子美观适体初探[J].常州技术师范学院学报.2002,8(1)34-35.
[11]庹武,刘庆.基于人体工效学的轮椅使用者服装的结构研究[J].上海纺织科技—服装,2OO4,32(6):44-46
[12]刘志泉.我国肢体残疾人概况[J].中国康复医学杂志,2003,8(18):23-25.
[13]吴清平,裴泓.肢体残疾成年人社会关系和社会支持状况配对研究[J].中国康复,1997,12(4):168-170.
[14]易冬秀.浅谈肢体残疾患者的康复护理[J].长沙民政职业技术学院学报,2004,12(8)46-48.
[15]吴慧雯.胸围、臂根围与袖窿深相关关系的比较[J].武汉科技学院学报,2005,18(12):3-4.
[16]徐继红,张文斌,杨子田.男西服后身板型合理化研究[J].东华大学学报(自然科学版),2004,30(1):62-65.
[17]李明.肢体残障者服装研究与设计[D].上海:东华大学,2007.
[18]周丽华.基于参数化特征的衣袖结构技术研究[D].上海:东华大学,2005.
[19]赵晓敏.平衡与人体动静态的上装结构配伍技术研究[D].上海:东华大学, 2007.
[20]张文斌,方方.服装人体工效学[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2008:56-72.
[21]中泽愈.人体与服装[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2003: 156-159.
[22]许星,吴经熊.高级服装领/袖打扮技术全篇[M].上海:上海文化出版社,2003:70-89.
[23]张文献.服装结构设计[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2006: 67-78.
[24]刘瑞璞.服装纸样设计原理与制版技术(男装篇)[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2005:70-86.
[25]潘健华.服装人体工效学与服装设计[M].北京:中国轻工业出版社,2000:28-45.
[26]张文斌.服装工艺学(结构设计分册)[M].北京:中国纺织出版社(第三版),2006:3-62.
[27] [日]三吉满智子.服装造型学(理论篇)[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2006:24-52.
[28]第二次全国残疾人抽样调查残疾标准,中国残疾人,2005,5:8.
[29] Naomi Reich,Elizabeth Shannon.Common Physical Limitations and Clothing-Related Needs[J].Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal,1980,8(6):437-444.
[30] Helena M. de Klerk,Lucy Ampousah.The Physically Disablesd South African Female Consumer’s Problems in Purchasing Clothing[J].International Journal of Consumer Studies,2002,26(2):93-101.
[31] B.L.Feather,J.W.Vann,P.B.O’Bannon.Clothing-related risk perceptions of disabled men and women at point of purchase[J].Journal of Consumer Studies and Home Economics,1989,13:313-326.
[32] C.M.Freeman et al.Perceptions of functional clothing by able-bodied people: the other side[J].Journal of Consumer Studies and Home Economics,1987,11:345-358.
[33] Marianne Thoren.Systems approach to clothing for disabled users.Why is it difficult for disabled users to find suitable clothing[J].ELSEVIER,1996,27(6):389-396.
[34] Helena M. de Klerk,Lucy Ampousah,The physically disabled South African female consumer’s problems in purchasing clothing[J].International Journal of Consumer Studies,2002,26(2): 93-101.
[35] Katherine Emma Carroll.INNOWATIONS AND IMPROVISATIONS:A STUDY IN SPECIALIZED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT FOCUSED ON BUSINESS CLOTHING FOR WOMEN WITH PHYSICAL[D].United States:Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University,2001.
[36] M.Dolores Quinn,Renee Weiss Chase.Design Without Limits,Simplicity Pattern Co.Inc.New York,1990.
[37] http://www.easyaccessclothing.com
[38] http://www.anitavee.com
[39] http://www.conformuk.com
[40] http://www.benefitsnowshop.co.uk
[41] http:// www.speciallyforyou.net