合体型连衣裙中褶饰的造型研究
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摘要
在近两年国际女装设计中,大量的褶饰被设计师运用在连衣裙,尤其是合体型连衣裙当中。这些褶饰将面料进行有序的叠加或堆积,使得裙身带有强烈的体积感、雕塑感和立体感,给人以全新的感觉,由此也衍生出了新的褶饰形态,新的褶饰面貌,比如具有建筑风格和折叠风格的褶饰。
本文研究的是目前的合体型连衣裙中的“新褶饰”,其特点是:褶量大,具有体积感、雕塑感和强烈的视觉冲击力。褶饰应用在裙身上的部位也更加的广泛,其造型功能被进一步强化。论文主要分为三大部分:
第一部分:论述合体型连衣裙中褶饰的形态特征及其影响因素。依据流行趋势中不同的褶饰的构成特点以及造型方式,大致将其分为八类,并简要介绍每一种褶饰的特点。而后,对影响褶饰形态的因素简要分析。这一部分对整篇论文起基础作用。
第二部分:对于合体型连衣裙中褶饰的板型设计的研究。在这一部分的内容中,主要从对于案例的分析来论述褶饰如何在合体型连衣裙的不同部位应用,进而总结合体型连衣裙中褶饰的板型设计的要领与技巧。
第三部分:通过阐述褶饰合体型连衣裙板型设计的原理与方法,得出结论:合体型连衣裙中的“新褶饰”有其特有的造型特征;放松量对于褶饰的板型设计有影响;褶饰合体型连衣裙板型设计需要遵循其特殊原理。
Recently , in the international women's design, plenty of ruching was used in the dress bydesigner,especially in syncytical dress. It made dress with a strong sense of volume, sculpturalsense and three-dimensional sense that he ruching in the situation of superposition andaccumulation orderly.It gave us new feel.Thus new ruching form and look were derived fromit, instance, obvious architectural style and folding style ruching.
This paper is studied about the“new ruching”in syncytical dress recently. Its characteristics isbig volume of ruching.However, it have a strong sense of volume , sculptural sense and strongvisual impact.Moreover,the application which ruching in the dress is moreextensive,however,its shape function is further strengthened. This paper is divided into threesection.
The first section: discussion about the morphological feature and its effect factors insyncytical dress. Based on fashion trends, composition characteristics and Modeling approachin different ruching, Roughly divided into eight categories. And briefly describes thecharacteristics of each Ruching. Then,we concise analysis the factors which give influence toruching This part of play a fundamental role in the whole thesis.
The second section: study of pattern design of ruching in syncytical dress. In this part of thecontent, mainly from the analysis for the case of, thus,discussed ruching how toco-application of the different parts of syncytical dress. And then we sum up tips andechniques of the ruching in syncytical dress.
The Third section: By elaborate Principles and Methods of pattern design in ruchingsyncytical dress, arrive at a conclusion:“new ruching”in syncytical dress has its uniquemodeling features；ease have impact to the pattern design of ruching; it is necessity that thepattern design of ruching syncytical dress to follow the special theory.
本文研究的是目前的合体型连衣裙中的“新褶饰”,其特点是:褶量大,具有体积感、雕塑感和强烈的视觉冲击力。褶饰应用在裙身上的部位也更加的广泛,其造型功能被进一步强化。论文主要分为三大部分:
第一部分:论述合体型连衣裙中褶饰的形态特征及其影响因素。依据流行趋势中不同的褶饰的构成特点以及造型方式,大致将其分为八类,并简要介绍每一种褶饰的特点。而后,对影响褶饰形态的因素简要分析。这一部分对整篇论文起基础作用。
第二部分:对于合体型连衣裙中褶饰的板型设计的研究。在这一部分的内容中,主要从对于案例的分析来论述褶饰如何在合体型连衣裙的不同部位应用,进而总结合体型连衣裙中褶饰的板型设计的要领与技巧。
第三部分:通过阐述褶饰合体型连衣裙板型设计的原理与方法,得出结论:合体型连衣裙中的“新褶饰”有其特有的造型特征;放松量对于褶饰的板型设计有影响;褶饰合体型连衣裙板型设计需要遵循其特殊原理。
Recently , in the international women's design, plenty of ruching was used in the dress bydesigner,especially in syncytical dress. It made dress with a strong sense of volume, sculpturalsense and three-dimensional sense that he ruching in the situation of superposition andaccumulation orderly.It gave us new feel.Thus new ruching form and look were derived fromit, instance, obvious architectural style and folding style ruching.
This paper is studied about the“new ruching”in syncytical dress recently. Its characteristics isbig volume of ruching.However, it have a strong sense of volume , sculptural sense and strongvisual impact.Moreover,the application which ruching in the dress is moreextensive,however,its shape function is further strengthened. This paper is divided into threesection.
The first section: discussion about the morphological feature and its effect factors insyncytical dress. Based on fashion trends, composition characteristics and Modeling approachin different ruching, Roughly divided into eight categories. And briefly describes thecharacteristics of each Ruching. Then,we concise analysis the factors which give influence toruching This part of play a fundamental role in the whole thesis.
The second section: study of pattern design of ruching in syncytical dress. In this part of thecontent, mainly from the analysis for the case of, thus,discussed ruching how toco-application of the different parts of syncytical dress. And then we sum up tips andechniques of the ruching in syncytical dress.
The Third section: By elaborate Principles and Methods of pattern design in ruchingsyncytical dress, arrive at a conclusion:“new ruching”in syncytical dress has its uniquemodeling features；ease have impact to the pattern design of ruching; it is necessity that thepattern design of ruching syncytical dress to follow the special theory.
引文
①魏静,徐时程.服装褶纹的变化与应用[J].浙江工程学院学报,2003,3:2
①邹平.褶饰在丝绸裙装结构设计中的应用[J].四川丝绸,2006,04:2
①苏洁.服装造型语言“褶皱”的形态与构成[J].丝绸,2005,10:3
①邹平.褶饰在丝绸裙装结构设计中的应用[J].四川丝绸,2006,04:2
①袁仄.服装设计学(第三版)[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2000,06:26
①吴清萍.论女装板型设计中褶皱的艺术魅力[J].艺术百家,2007,12:2
①吴清萍.论女装板型设计中褶皱的艺术魅力[J].艺术百家,2007,12:2
②刘承芳.国内品牌服装版型风格的研究[J].广西轻工业,2007,10:3
①(日)三吉满智子主编;郑嵘,张浩,韩洁羽翻译.服装造型学·理论篇[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2006,04:42
①张亚玲,压褶服装的研究[D][硕士论文].上海:东华大学,2006:57
[1]袁仄.服装设计学(第三版)[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2000,06:26
[2]张文斌.服装工艺学(结构设计分册)第三版[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2001,01:56.
[3](日)文化服装学院编;张租芳,周洋溢,束重华等译.女衬衫·连衣裙[M].上海:东华大学出版社.2004,12:128
[4](日)文化服装学院,文化女子大学编.文化服装讲座[M].北京:中国展望出版社.1981,12:89-90
[5](日)中屋典子,三吉满智子主编;孙兆全,刘美华,金鲜英翻译.服装造型学·技术篇Ⅰ[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2004,10:187
[6](日)三吉满智子主编;郑嵘,张浩,韩洁羽翻译.服装造型学·理论篇[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2006,04:42
[7](美)欧内斯廷·科博,维特罗纳·罗尔夫,比阿特丽斯·泽林等著;戴鸿、刘静伟等译.服装纸样设计原理与应用[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2004,04:145.
[8]祝煜明工作室.服饰裁剪图典[M].杭州:浙江科学技术出版社.2001,12:67,75
[9](日)泽愈著;袁观洛译.人体与服装[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2000,06:69-72
[10]吴清萍.论公主线样板的技术裂变[A].张贤根,熊兆飞.服饰新世界[C].武汉:湖北人民出版社.2009,1:51
[11]吴清萍.论服装板型的松度值[J].武汉科技学院学报,2007,12:2
[12]吴清萍.论女装板型设计中褶皱的艺术魅力[J].艺术百家,2009,07:2
[13]邹平.褶饰在丝绸裙装结构设计中的应用[J].四川丝绸,2006,04:2
[14]吴小兵.褶饰工艺技术在女装设计变化中的应用[J].丝绸,2007,03:3
[15]邹平.展开变化原理在裙装褶饰结构设计中的应用[J].辽东学院学报,2007,06:2.
[16]胡毅.礼服褶饰造型及构成技术[J].成都纺织高等专科学校学报,2005,01:2-3
[17]魏静,徐时程.服装褶纹的变化与应用[J].浙江工程学院学报,2003,03:2-3
[18]龚勤理.服装褶皱的设计应用及其审美特征[J].丝绸,2006,08:1-2
[19]孟少妮.褶皱在服装设计中的应用[J].科技信息,2004,08:2
[20]张并劬,练红.褶裥在服装造型设计中的应用[J].四川纺织科技,2002,01:1
[21]梁惠娥,崔荣荣.民间裙装中褶皱的效用价值[J].纺织学报2006,09::2-3
[22]苏洁.服装造型语言“褶皱”的形态与构成[J].丝绸,2005,10:3
[23]刘水.服装设计中的褶皱艺术[J].装饰,2007,04:1
[24]王丽.现代合体女装特殊省道的设计研究[D].东华大学.2007:42
[25]张亚玲.压褶服装的研究[D][硕士论文].上海:东华大学,2006：57
[26]刘承芳.国内品牌服装版型风格的研究[J].广西轻工业2007,10：3
[27]杨秀丽.服装结构设计技法研究[D] [硕士论文].上海:东华大学,2006：45
[28]俞琳娜.服饰与美容Vogue[J].人民画报社,2008,08:38
[29]刘瑞璞.女装纸样设计原理与技巧[M].北京：中国纺织出版社.2000，02.
[30]俞琳娜.服饰与美容Vogue[J].人民画报社,2009,02:40.
[31] DaleJulieSehafler.ArtToWear[M].AbbevillePress，1986,03:2
[32] The Complete collection of Fall 2010 Ready To Wear of Burberry Prorsum [EB/OL]．http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/F2010RTW-BURBERRY,2010.03.13
[33] Alison Beazley.Size and fit:The development of size charts for clothing-Part3[J].Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management. 1999,03:2.
[34] Winifred Aldrich.Metric Pattern Cutting.Oxford[M].Blackwell ScientificPress.1990.01:102.
[35] Yu Chen,Xiangyi Zeng,Michel Happiette,etc. A new method of ease allowancegeneration for personalization of garment design.International [J].Journal of Science andTechnology., 2008,20:4.
[36] GerdaBuxbaum.Ieons of Fashion the20th Century[M].Prestel Verlag，1999,03:2.
[37] T. Bond, S.C. Liao, J.P. Turner. Pattern design construction for ladies' made-to-measureouterwear: Part II: Establishment of proposed size charts and the new pattern constructionsystem for the bodice and sleeve blocks[J].Journal of Fashion Marketing andManagement.2000,02:2.
[38] Chin-Man Chen.Fit Evaluation Within the made-to-measure process[J].InternationalJournal of Clothing Science and Technology.2007,02:3.
[39] Tam Wong Hung Yeh(Helena Tam). Pattern Construction Rules For Down’s SyndromeFemales[J].International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.1991,04:2~3.
[40] S. Sun, A. Xu,“Study on Parameterized Mannequin Modeling In 3D GarmentSimulation”[J].Journal of Textile Research,2007, 28:12.
[41] J.E. Chadwick, D.R. Haumann, R.E. Parent,“Layeredconstruction for deformable animated character”[J].Computer Graphics, 1989, 23: 3.
[42] S. Sun, A. Xu, Q. Huang, X. Wang,“Real-time Garment Simulation Based onGeometrically Approximating Character with Colliding Objects”[J].Journal of Software,2007,18:2~3..
[43] Chamber, L., Practical Handbook of Genetic Algorithms[M].CRC Press, 1995,01:3.
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①邹平.褶饰在丝绸裙装结构设计中的应用[J].四川丝绸,2006,04:2
①苏洁.服装造型语言“褶皱”的形态与构成[J].丝绸,2005,10:3
①邹平.褶饰在丝绸裙装结构设计中的应用[J].四川丝绸,2006,04:2
①袁仄.服装设计学(第三版)[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2000,06:26
①吴清萍.论女装板型设计中褶皱的艺术魅力[J].艺术百家,2007,12:2
①吴清萍.论女装板型设计中褶皱的艺术魅力[J].艺术百家,2007,12:2
②刘承芳.国内品牌服装版型风格的研究[J].广西轻工业,2007,10:3
①(日)三吉满智子主编;郑嵘,张浩,韩洁羽翻译.服装造型学·理论篇[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2006,04:42
①张亚玲,压褶服装的研究[D][硕士论文].上海:东华大学,2006:57
[1]袁仄.服装设计学(第三版)[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2000,06:26
[2]张文斌.服装工艺学(结构设计分册)第三版[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2001,01:56.
[3](日)文化服装学院编;张租芳,周洋溢,束重华等译.女衬衫·连衣裙[M].上海:东华大学出版社.2004,12:128
[4](日)文化服装学院,文化女子大学编.文化服装讲座[M].北京:中国展望出版社.1981,12:89-90
[5](日)中屋典子,三吉满智子主编;孙兆全,刘美华,金鲜英翻译.服装造型学·技术篇Ⅰ[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2004,10:187
[6](日)三吉满智子主编;郑嵘,张浩,韩洁羽翻译.服装造型学·理论篇[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2006,04:42
[7](美)欧内斯廷·科博,维特罗纳·罗尔夫,比阿特丽斯·泽林等著;戴鸿、刘静伟等译.服装纸样设计原理与应用[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2004,04:145.
[8]祝煜明工作室.服饰裁剪图典[M].杭州:浙江科学技术出版社.2001,12:67,75
[9](日)泽愈著;袁观洛译.人体与服装[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2000,06:69-72
[10]吴清萍.论公主线样板的技术裂变[A].张贤根,熊兆飞.服饰新世界[C].武汉:湖北人民出版社.2009,1:51
[11]吴清萍.论服装板型的松度值[J].武汉科技学院学报,2007,12:2
[12]吴清萍.论女装板型设计中褶皱的艺术魅力[J].艺术百家,2009,07:2
[13]邹平.褶饰在丝绸裙装结构设计中的应用[J].四川丝绸,2006,04:2
[14]吴小兵.褶饰工艺技术在女装设计变化中的应用[J].丝绸,2007,03:3
[15]邹平.展开变化原理在裙装褶饰结构设计中的应用[J].辽东学院学报,2007,06:2.
[16]胡毅.礼服褶饰造型及构成技术[J].成都纺织高等专科学校学报,2005,01:2-3
[17]魏静,徐时程.服装褶纹的变化与应用[J].浙江工程学院学报,2003,03:2-3
[18]龚勤理.服装褶皱的设计应用及其审美特征[J].丝绸,2006,08:1-2
[19]孟少妮.褶皱在服装设计中的应用[J].科技信息,2004,08:2
[20]张并劬,练红.褶裥在服装造型设计中的应用[J].四川纺织科技,2002,01:1
[21]梁惠娥,崔荣荣.民间裙装中褶皱的效用价值[J].纺织学报2006,09::2-3
[22]苏洁.服装造型语言“褶皱”的形态与构成[J].丝绸,2005,10:3
[23]刘水.服装设计中的褶皱艺术[J].装饰,2007,04:1
[24]王丽.现代合体女装特殊省道的设计研究[D].东华大学.2007:42
[25]张亚玲.压褶服装的研究[D][硕士论文].上海:东华大学,2006：57
[26]刘承芳.国内品牌服装版型风格的研究[J].广西轻工业2007,10：3
[27]杨秀丽.服装结构设计技法研究[D] [硕士论文].上海:东华大学,2006：45
[28]俞琳娜.服饰与美容Vogue[J].人民画报社,2008,08:38
[29]刘瑞璞.女装纸样设计原理与技巧[M].北京：中国纺织出版社.2000，02.
[30]俞琳娜.服饰与美容Vogue[J].人民画报社,2009,02:40.
[31] DaleJulieSehafler.ArtToWear[M].AbbevillePress，1986,03:2
[32] The Complete collection of Fall 2010 Ready To Wear of Burberry Prorsum [EB/OL]．http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/F2010RTW-BURBERRY,2010.03.13
[33] Alison Beazley.Size and fit:The development of size charts for clothing-Part3[J].Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management. 1999,03:2.
[34] Winifred Aldrich.Metric Pattern Cutting.Oxford[M].Blackwell ScientificPress.1990.01:102.
[35] Yu Chen,Xiangyi Zeng,Michel Happiette,etc. A new method of ease allowancegeneration for personalization of garment design.International [J].Journal of Science andTechnology., 2008,20:4.
[36] GerdaBuxbaum.Ieons of Fashion the20th Century[M].Prestel Verlag，1999,03:2.
[37] T. Bond, S.C. Liao, J.P. Turner. Pattern design construction for ladies' made-to-measureouterwear: Part II: Establishment of proposed size charts and the new pattern constructionsystem for the bodice and sleeve blocks[J].Journal of Fashion Marketing andManagement.2000,02:2.
[38] Chin-Man Chen.Fit Evaluation Within the made-to-measure process[J].InternationalJournal of Clothing Science and Technology.2007,02:3.
[39] Tam Wong Hung Yeh(Helena Tam). Pattern Construction Rules For Down’s SyndromeFemales[J].International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.1991,04:2~3.
[40] S. Sun, A. Xu,“Study on Parameterized Mannequin Modeling In 3D GarmentSimulation”[J].Journal of Textile Research,2007, 28:12.
[41] J.E. Chadwick, D.R. Haumann, R.E. Parent,“Layeredconstruction for deformable animated character”[J].Computer Graphics, 1989, 23: 3.
[42] S. Sun, A. Xu, Q. Huang, X. Wang,“Real-time Garment Simulation Based onGeometrically Approximating Character with Colliding Objects”[J].Journal of Software,2007,18:2~3..
[43] Chamber, L., Practical Handbook of Genetic Algorithms[M].CRC Press, 1995,01:3.
[44] Eberhart, R., Simpson, P. and Dobbins, R..Computational Intelligence PCTools[M].Waite Group Press, 1996,12:245.
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