舒适性高档亚麻针织产品的开发
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摘要
随着人们生活水平的提高和科学技术的飞速发展，人们对纺织产品提出了更高的要求，服饰的舒适卫生性己成为人们的首要追求，在这一发展趋势下，以“纤维皇后”著称的亚麻织物越来越受到人们的青睐，舒适高档的亚麻针织产品更是市场所需。
亚麻纤维吸湿透气性好，具有挺括、凉爽、不粘皮服、舒适、端庄的自然风格和保健、抑菌、抗静电等多种卫生性能。但是亚麻织物的刺痒感一直是制约亚麻产品发展的主要障碍。为了适应人们对高档亚麻针织面料的需求，拟立题进行高档亚麻针织面料的开发，其重点是消除亚麻织物的刺痒感，改善亚麻针织物的手感，提高其触感舒适性。
为了使本课题顺利进行，我们首先拟订了基本的研究思路，按照以下技术路线进行开发探讨：亚麻纤维性能研究与筛选→原料可编性及其柔软前处理工艺的研究→织物组织结构与上机设计→产品试织→练漂工艺研究→生物酶柔软工艺研究→染色和后整理工艺研究。
亚麻纤维的分子结构及化学组成对产品的加工设备、工艺和织物的性能有直接影响，所以必须首先对原料性能进行系统研讨，分析纤维的物理及化学性能，为后面的生产奠定基础。
通过对原料的分析，我们知道亚麻纤维刚性大，纤毛粗糙、坚硬，伸长性、弹性差，在针织工艺中可编性较差，因此在上机前必须采取前处理工艺，提高纱线的可编性，这是亚麻纱上机编织的前提，也是生产高档亚麻针织面料的基础。
然后根据所选定的原料和产品用途，同时结合厂家的设备情况，确定在台车和单面四针道圆纬机上开发产品。开发了三种产品：台车双纱汗布、纬平针织物、珠地网眼织物，经过反复试织，设计了科学合理的工艺参数，并严格控制线圈长度和纱线张力，力争线圈长度均匀一致，成功地织出高质量的毛坯布。
为了进一步去除纤维上残留的果胶、木质素和色素等杂质，提高生物酶整理和染色的效果，我们采用了练漂一浴法高效短流程新工艺对毛坯布进行煮练和漂白，在烧碱煮练的同时加入双氧水完成漂白，这对提高生产效率、降低生产成本及减少废水是有利的。
在亚麻针织物的染整工艺中，消除织物表面茸毛，减少刺痒感的生物酶柔软整理工艺是染整工艺的重中之重。纤维素酶广泛应用于纤维素织物的柔软整理中，我们首先对纤维素生物酶的性能、作用机理进行了分析。为了制定科学合理的生物酶
柔软整理工艺，全面掌握工艺条件对整理效果的影响，我们进行了正交试验，选取
酶剂用量、时间、温度和pH值四大因素作为正交试验的因子，每个因子各取4个
水平进行试验，测定了每种水平组合下的织物减量率及强力损失率，并对试验结果
进行分析，结论是温度和pH值对减量率及强力损夫率具有显著影响，而且织物的
强力损失率与减量率具有较好的线性关系。在此基础上，确定了科学合理的生物酶
整理工艺条件。
亚麻织物的染色是本文的又一重要课题。亚麻纤维同棉纤维都为纤维素纤维，
但由于麻纤维结晶度高，较棉纤维难于上染，因此采用了新型的B型活性染料，它
具有上染率高、染色牢度大等优点，并且在染色方法上采用了一浴两步法，在中性
浴中上染，在碱性浴中固色，染色工艺上采用了分步加盐加碱法，以求获得较高的
卜染率、固色率和较好的匀染性。
后整理对提高布血的光洁度、改善坯布的缩水率和手感弹性至关重要。我们
采用了三超预缩整理。通过合理控制织物的扩幅量及超喂量，达到较好的整理效
果。
经过上述科学合理的生产工艺，亚麻针织产品的手感、悬垂性、柔软性和弹性
得到了极大地改善。织物布血光洁，外观挺括而又不失飘逸，服用性能较好，达到
了预期目的。
With the improvement of people's living standard and rapid development of science and technology, people have put forward higher request for the textile. Comfort and hygiene of the dress have already become people's primary pursuit. Under this trend, the flax fabrics famous for 'fiber emperor' are greatly favored by people and the knitted fabrics are still more.
Flax has many kinds of fine performance, such as ventilative, cool, firm and hygienic properties such as anti-bacteria, antistatic and ultraviolet-proof, but the scratch iness of the flax has been a main obstacle of the development of top-grade flax fabric. In order to meet people's demands for top-grade flax knitted fabrics, this article plan to develop top-grade flax knitting fabric. The emphasis of our research is to dispel scratchiness of flax fabric and improve flax fabric's hand feeling , softness and elasticity.
In order to make our research go on smoothly, we developed our research according to the following stages. Study of flax's performance -Softening of flax yarns-Designs of fabrics' structure -Scouring and bleaching - Cellulase treatment - Dyeing and finishing.
According to the study of flax's configuration and component, we know flax is coarse,hard and low streach, so it is difficult to weave, particularly on knitting machines. The pretreament of flax yarns is essential before weaving so as to improve flax's weavability and it is also a foundation of top-grade flax knitted fabrics.
According to selected raw materials and the use of the products,combining the equipment situation at the same time, then we decided to produce fabrics on towpkins and four-cam track single knitting machines and designed three kinds of fabrics: double-yam jersey, weft plain-knitted fabric and open work fabrics. Through weaving repeatedly, we confirmed the rational weaving parameters. In weaving, yarns tension was strictly controlled to make loop length even and consistent in order that high quality flax blanks were sucessfully woven.
In order to remove the impurity accreted to the flax fiber such as pectin, lignin and so on, the flax fabrics were in need of scouring and bleaching first. We adopted the single-stage scouring-bleaching technology. This technology was heapful to raise production efficiency and reduce environmental pollution.
The cellulase treatment of the fabrics was the key of the article, the aim of which
was to eliminate fabrics surface's fluff and decrease fabrics' scratchiness. Cellulase has been widely used in the softening of cellusive fibers. We analysesed the performance and action function mechanism of cellulase first. In order to grasp the influence of process conditions on cellulase treatment effect, then we took orthogonal test chooosing four factors: the dosage of cellulase, treatment temperature, temperature-holding time and pH value and fetching four levels for each factor in the test. We calculated the weight loss and the strength decrement of the fabrics for each test. Then we analysed the influence of each factor on weight loss and strenth decrement and the relation between weight loss and strength decrement. At last we drew the conclusion that temperature and pH value had remarkable influence on weight loss and strenth decrement and that strength decrement was well linear with weight loss. On the basis of that , we decided scientific and rational process conditions of cellulase treatment.
The dyeing of blank fabrics was another important program. Flax and cotton fiber are both cellusive fiber, but flax fiber is high crystalline and impurity content, so it is difficult to dye than cotton fiber. In order to attain fine dyeing effect, we choosed the modal B reactive dye and adopted one-bath and two-step dyeing technology, that is, exhausting in the neutral bath and fixing in the alkaline bath. During dyeing salt and alkali were added according to two steps so as to high exhaustion and fixation also better level dyeing were achieved.
Finishing is essential to improving the fabrics' neatness and elasticity and red
亚麻纤维吸湿透气性好，具有挺括、凉爽、不粘皮服、舒适、端庄的自然风格和保健、抑菌、抗静电等多种卫生性能。但是亚麻织物的刺痒感一直是制约亚麻产品发展的主要障碍。为了适应人们对高档亚麻针织面料的需求，拟立题进行高档亚麻针织面料的开发，其重点是消除亚麻织物的刺痒感，改善亚麻针织物的手感，提高其触感舒适性。
为了使本课题顺利进行，我们首先拟订了基本的研究思路，按照以下技术路线进行开发探讨：亚麻纤维性能研究与筛选→原料可编性及其柔软前处理工艺的研究→织物组织结构与上机设计→产品试织→练漂工艺研究→生物酶柔软工艺研究→染色和后整理工艺研究。
亚麻纤维的分子结构及化学组成对产品的加工设备、工艺和织物的性能有直接影响，所以必须首先对原料性能进行系统研讨，分析纤维的物理及化学性能，为后面的生产奠定基础。
通过对原料的分析，我们知道亚麻纤维刚性大，纤毛粗糙、坚硬，伸长性、弹性差，在针织工艺中可编性较差，因此在上机前必须采取前处理工艺，提高纱线的可编性，这是亚麻纱上机编织的前提，也是生产高档亚麻针织面料的基础。
然后根据所选定的原料和产品用途，同时结合厂家的设备情况，确定在台车和单面四针道圆纬机上开发产品。开发了三种产品：台车双纱汗布、纬平针织物、珠地网眼织物，经过反复试织，设计了科学合理的工艺参数，并严格控制线圈长度和纱线张力，力争线圈长度均匀一致，成功地织出高质量的毛坯布。
为了进一步去除纤维上残留的果胶、木质素和色素等杂质，提高生物酶整理和染色的效果，我们采用了练漂一浴法高效短流程新工艺对毛坯布进行煮练和漂白，在烧碱煮练的同时加入双氧水完成漂白，这对提高生产效率、降低生产成本及减少废水是有利的。
在亚麻针织物的染整工艺中，消除织物表面茸毛，减少刺痒感的生物酶柔软整理工艺是染整工艺的重中之重。纤维素酶广泛应用于纤维素织物的柔软整理中，我们首先对纤维素生物酶的性能、作用机理进行了分析。为了制定科学合理的生物酶
柔软整理工艺，全面掌握工艺条件对整理效果的影响，我们进行了正交试验，选取
酶剂用量、时间、温度和pH值四大因素作为正交试验的因子，每个因子各取4个
水平进行试验，测定了每种水平组合下的织物减量率及强力损失率，并对试验结果
进行分析，结论是温度和pH值对减量率及强力损夫率具有显著影响，而且织物的
强力损失率与减量率具有较好的线性关系。在此基础上，确定了科学合理的生物酶
整理工艺条件。
亚麻织物的染色是本文的又一重要课题。亚麻纤维同棉纤维都为纤维素纤维，
但由于麻纤维结晶度高，较棉纤维难于上染，因此采用了新型的B型活性染料，它
具有上染率高、染色牢度大等优点，并且在染色方法上采用了一浴两步法，在中性
浴中上染，在碱性浴中固色，染色工艺上采用了分步加盐加碱法，以求获得较高的
卜染率、固色率和较好的匀染性。
后整理对提高布血的光洁度、改善坯布的缩水率和手感弹性至关重要。我们
采用了三超预缩整理。通过合理控制织物的扩幅量及超喂量，达到较好的整理效
果。
经过上述科学合理的生产工艺，亚麻针织产品的手感、悬垂性、柔软性和弹性
得到了极大地改善。织物布血光洁，外观挺括而又不失飘逸，服用性能较好，达到
了预期目的。
With the improvement of people's living standard and rapid development of science and technology, people have put forward higher request for the textile. Comfort and hygiene of the dress have already become people's primary pursuit. Under this trend, the flax fabrics famous for 'fiber emperor' are greatly favored by people and the knitted fabrics are still more.
Flax has many kinds of fine performance, such as ventilative, cool, firm and hygienic properties such as anti-bacteria, antistatic and ultraviolet-proof, but the scratch iness of the flax has been a main obstacle of the development of top-grade flax fabric. In order to meet people's demands for top-grade flax knitted fabrics, this article plan to develop top-grade flax knitting fabric. The emphasis of our research is to dispel scratchiness of flax fabric and improve flax fabric's hand feeling , softness and elasticity.
In order to make our research go on smoothly, we developed our research according to the following stages. Study of flax's performance -Softening of flax yarns-Designs of fabrics' structure -Scouring and bleaching - Cellulase treatment - Dyeing and finishing.
According to the study of flax's configuration and component, we know flax is coarse,hard and low streach, so it is difficult to weave, particularly on knitting machines. The pretreament of flax yarns is essential before weaving so as to improve flax's weavability and it is also a foundation of top-grade flax knitted fabrics.
According to selected raw materials and the use of the products,combining the equipment situation at the same time, then we decided to produce fabrics on towpkins and four-cam track single knitting machines and designed three kinds of fabrics: double-yam jersey, weft plain-knitted fabric and open work fabrics. Through weaving repeatedly, we confirmed the rational weaving parameters. In weaving, yarns tension was strictly controlled to make loop length even and consistent in order that high quality flax blanks were sucessfully woven.
In order to remove the impurity accreted to the flax fiber such as pectin, lignin and so on, the flax fabrics were in need of scouring and bleaching first. We adopted the single-stage scouring-bleaching technology. This technology was heapful to raise production efficiency and reduce environmental pollution.
The cellulase treatment of the fabrics was the key of the article, the aim of which
was to eliminate fabrics surface's fluff and decrease fabrics' scratchiness. Cellulase has been widely used in the softening of cellusive fibers. We analysesed the performance and action function mechanism of cellulase first. In order to grasp the influence of process conditions on cellulase treatment effect, then we took orthogonal test chooosing four factors: the dosage of cellulase, treatment temperature, temperature-holding time and pH value and fetching four levels for each factor in the test. We calculated the weight loss and the strength decrement of the fabrics for each test. Then we analysed the influence of each factor on weight loss and strenth decrement and the relation between weight loss and strength decrement. At last we drew the conclusion that temperature and pH value had remarkable influence on weight loss and strenth decrement and that strength decrement was well linear with weight loss. On the basis of that , we decided scientific and rational process conditions of cellulase treatment.
The dyeing of blank fabrics was another important program. Flax and cotton fiber are both cellusive fiber, but flax fiber is high crystalline and impurity content, so it is difficult to dye than cotton fiber. In order to attain fine dyeing effect, we choosed the modal B reactive dye and adopted one-bath and two-step dyeing technology, that is, exhausting in the neutral bath and fixing in the alkaline bath. During dyeing salt and alkali were added according to two steps so as to high exhaustion and fixation also better level dyeing were achieved.
Finishing is essential to improving the fabrics' neatness and elasticity and red
引文
[1] 孔繁超等．针织物染整．北京：中国纺织出版社，1997
[2] 姚穆，周锦芳等．纺织材料学．北京：纺织工业出版社，1990
[3] 赵书经．纺织材料实验教程．北京：纺织工业出版社，1989
[4] 王菊生，孙铠．染整工艺原理．北京：纺织工业出版社，1990
[5] 汪荣鑫．数理统计．西安：西安交通大学出版社，1995
[6] 顾名淦，汪家骏等．麻纤维开发利用．北京：纺织工业出版社，1993
[7] 陈溥，王志刚．纺织染整助剂手册．北京：中国轻工业出版社，1995
[8] 房宽峻．纺织品生态加工技术．北京：中国纺织出版社，2001
[9] 董永春，滑钧凯．纺织品整理剂的性能与应用．北京：中国纺织出社，1999
[10] 黄荣连等．运用生物酶整理开发麻棉针织产品．针织工业，2002，(1)：59～61
[11] 黄荣连．亚麻／棉针织产品的开发．现代纺织技术，2002，(1)：4～6
[12] 朱虹．B型活性染料在棉针织物上的染色性能探讨．针织工业，2000，(6)：56～58
[13] 郑喜群等．亚麻生物脱胶新方法及其比较．纺织学报，2001，(4)：31～33
[14] 王光明，陈冬芝．棉、麻及人丝织物的酶洗工艺研究，2002，(4)：6～10
[15] 沈勇，孙铠．生化处理中纤维素酶对纤维素纤维吸附等温式研究，纺织学报，2000，(4)：12～15
[16] 徐顺成，徐秀源．纯棉针织物活性染料染色工艺设计探讨，针织工业(1)：33～38
[17] 魏玉娟，朱俊萍．胡麻纺织品膨化处理工艺的研究，纺织学报，2000，(4)：53～55
[18] 李旭，马秀丽，张瑞华．活性染料的选择及应用，山东纺织科技，2000，(3)：27～28
[19] 张瑞萍，方云．比色法测定织物酶整理效果的研究，上海纺织科技，2001，(6)：37～38
[20] 宋心远，沈煜如．活性染料及其染色的近年进展，印染，2002，(2)，(3)，
[21] 陈荣圻．三原色染料(一)，印染，2002，(4)：30～33
[22] 尹宇，王春梅，吴国宾．活性染料SEFR值测试与配伍性能研究，印染，2002，(3)：5～8
[23] 余支农．麻织物喷射溢流染色工艺探讨，染整技术，2002，(1)：35～37
[24] 徐谷仓．染整短流程前处理工艺、助剂和设备的现状和发展(下)，染整技术，2002，(1)：12～16
[25] 杨军．亚麻织物冷轧堆前处理工艺探讨，山东纺织科技，2001，(3)：34～36
[26] 吴坚，魏菊．抗菌亚麻织物的开发，染整技术，2001，23(4)：18～19
[27] 沈勇，丁颖，王黎明．影响苎麻织物免烫整理效果的因素分析，印染，2002，(3)：2～4
[28] 高守武．台车编织双纱织物技术的探讨，山东纺织科技，2001，(4)：18～19
[29] 宋爱霞．练罐碱煮氧漂一浴法工艺实践，山东纺织科技，2000，(3)：37～38
[30] 宋勇，文峰等．苎麻棉混纺织物染整实践，印染，2002，(1)：28～30
[31] 唐淑娟，高云岭，王明．过氧化氢对亚麻的超声漂白与染色，山东纺织科技，2001，(3)：7～9
[32] 庄梅芳．亚麻粗纱生化处理工艺的研究，纺织学报，1994，(12)：35～36
[2] 姚穆，周锦芳等．纺织材料学．北京：纺织工业出版社，1990
[3] 赵书经．纺织材料实验教程．北京：纺织工业出版社，1989
[4] 王菊生，孙铠．染整工艺原理．北京：纺织工业出版社，1990
[5] 汪荣鑫．数理统计．西安：西安交通大学出版社，1995
[6] 顾名淦，汪家骏等．麻纤维开发利用．北京：纺织工业出版社，1993
[7] 陈溥，王志刚．纺织染整助剂手册．北京：中国轻工业出版社，1995
[8] 房宽峻．纺织品生态加工技术．北京：中国纺织出版社，2001
[9] 董永春，滑钧凯．纺织品整理剂的性能与应用．北京：中国纺织出社，1999
[10] 黄荣连等．运用生物酶整理开发麻棉针织产品．针织工业，2002，(1)：59～61
[11] 黄荣连．亚麻／棉针织产品的开发．现代纺织技术，2002，(1)：4～6
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