基于服装MTM的我国三地区成年男子体型研究及男上装规格数据库的建立
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摘要
随着服装工业的发展和人们对服装舒适性、适体性要求的提高，单量单裁越来越受到人们的重视，服装MTM生产模式也将变得越来越流行，本研究正是在此基础上提出的。
本研究首先运用接触式人体测量得到了华北东北、华东、西南三大地区的成年男子体型数据；然后运用SPSS10.0统计分析软件对数据分别进行了单一样本T检验、多因素方差分析、相关分析、回归分析等统计分析，得出了三个地区成年男子体型的各自特征；最后将三地区成年男子体型数据合并，得出三地区成年男子体型的总的特征及身长、胸围、腰围、臀围、胸腰差随年龄、身长的变化关系，并与GB1335-91中所测成年男子体型进行了比较。
在此基础上，本研究根据服装MTM生产模式的要求，将三地区总和成年男子体型根据胸腰差和胸腰比两项指标将三地区成年男子体型分为Y、YA、A、AB、B、BC、C共7种体型，并制定出了各种体型的中间体；随后，又制定出了2.5·2系列的适用于服装MTM的号型规格系列，并以其中的各体型关键部位数据作为本次服装MTM规格数据库中的标准体型数据。
本研究还利用模糊数学中模糊判别的最大隶属度原则，建立了适用于服装MTM系统的体型判别数学模型，并运用VB语言编程实现了此过程。
最后，使用三地区总和所得出的A体型控制部位回归关系建立了统一的(西装原型与衬衫原型统一)男装原型，以其作为最基本的样板，对所建立的模糊判别过程进行了检验，证明了该判别过程的可行性、对服装MTM系统的适用性及判别结果的准确性。
With the garment industry's development and people's requirement for garment comfort and fit's increasing, "made to measure" manufacture mode was attached importance gradually. Meanwhile, the MTM manufacture mode used in garment industry is becoming popular increasingly. So there comes a related project and this topic.
Firstly, 20-55-year-old men's body form data of north and northeast area, east area and southwest area in China was obtained by manual body form measurement. Then One-Sample T Test, Correlation, Multiple Regression, Cluster and so on were made through Statistics Package for Social Science. As a result, 20~55-year-old men's body form characters of the three areas mentioned above were educed respectively. At last, the three areas' data was united. Accordingly, 20-55-year-old men's body form's general characters of the united area and the change of body height, chest circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference and the difference between chest circumference and waist circumference according to age or body height. Furthermore, the change was compared with the data in GB1335-91.
Secondly, on the bases of the educed analysis result, the united body form was clustered into 7 categories: Y, YA, A, AB, B, BC, C according to the requirement of garment MTM manufacture mode and the standard body form of 1 categories was decided respectively. Whereafter, to meet the demand of garment MTM manufacture mode's body size series (garment standard and specification), 2.5 ?2 series was decided and established. And the key position's data of every body form in the series was decided to be used as the standard body form data that is prepared to be used in the database of the garment MTM system.
Thirdly, a body form discriminant mathematic model was established according to fuzzy classification and fuzzy discrimination and realized them by computer language VB.
At last, based on the educed linear regression of type A body form, a new type men's garment prototype was made and used to test the established body form discriminant mathematic model. After testing, the established body form discriminant mathematic model was proved to be feasible, applicable and exact for the garment MTM system made in the project.
本研究首先运用接触式人体测量得到了华北东北、华东、西南三大地区的成年男子体型数据；然后运用SPSS10.0统计分析软件对数据分别进行了单一样本T检验、多因素方差分析、相关分析、回归分析等统计分析，得出了三个地区成年男子体型的各自特征；最后将三地区成年男子体型数据合并，得出三地区成年男子体型的总的特征及身长、胸围、腰围、臀围、胸腰差随年龄、身长的变化关系，并与GB1335-91中所测成年男子体型进行了比较。
在此基础上，本研究根据服装MTM生产模式的要求，将三地区总和成年男子体型根据胸腰差和胸腰比两项指标将三地区成年男子体型分为Y、YA、A、AB、B、BC、C共7种体型，并制定出了各种体型的中间体；随后，又制定出了2.5·2系列的适用于服装MTM的号型规格系列，并以其中的各体型关键部位数据作为本次服装MTM规格数据库中的标准体型数据。
本研究还利用模糊数学中模糊判别的最大隶属度原则，建立了适用于服装MTM系统的体型判别数学模型，并运用VB语言编程实现了此过程。
最后，使用三地区总和所得出的A体型控制部位回归关系建立了统一的(西装原型与衬衫原型统一)男装原型，以其作为最基本的样板，对所建立的模糊判别过程进行了检验，证明了该判别过程的可行性、对服装MTM系统的适用性及判别结果的准确性。
With the garment industry's development and people's requirement for garment comfort and fit's increasing, "made to measure" manufacture mode was attached importance gradually. Meanwhile, the MTM manufacture mode used in garment industry is becoming popular increasingly. So there comes a related project and this topic.
Firstly, 20-55-year-old men's body form data of north and northeast area, east area and southwest area in China was obtained by manual body form measurement. Then One-Sample T Test, Correlation, Multiple Regression, Cluster and so on were made through Statistics Package for Social Science. As a result, 20~55-year-old men's body form characters of the three areas mentioned above were educed respectively. At last, the three areas' data was united. Accordingly, 20-55-year-old men's body form's general characters of the united area and the change of body height, chest circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference and the difference between chest circumference and waist circumference according to age or body height. Furthermore, the change was compared with the data in GB1335-91.
Secondly, on the bases of the educed analysis result, the united body form was clustered into 7 categories: Y, YA, A, AB, B, BC, C according to the requirement of garment MTM manufacture mode and the standard body form of 1 categories was decided respectively. Whereafter, to meet the demand of garment MTM manufacture mode's body size series (garment standard and specification), 2.5 ?2 series was decided and established. And the key position's data of every body form in the series was decided to be used as the standard body form data that is prepared to be used in the database of the garment MTM system.
Thirdly, a body form discriminant mathematic model was established according to fuzzy classification and fuzzy discrimination and realized them by computer language VB.
At last, based on the educed linear regression of type A body form, a new type men's garment prototype was made and used to test the established body form discriminant mathematic model. After testing, the established body form discriminant mathematic model was proved to be feasible, applicable and exact for the garment MTM system made in the project.
引文
[1]刘先勇 袁长迎 段宝福 周方洁编 SPSS10.0统计分析软件与应用 国防工业出版社
[2]梅长林 周家良编 实用统计方法 科学出版社
[3]谢季坚 刘承平编 模糊数学方法及其应用(第二版)华中科技大学出版社
[4]俞泳涛 中国军人体型特征分析及基准人体模型的研制 东华大学硕士学位论文
[5]沈卫勤 中老年女子体型及服装消费行为研究 东华大学硕士学位论文
[6]沈迎军 高龄者体型及着装卫生指标研究 东华大学硕士学位论文
[7](日)中泽愈著 人体与服装 中国纺织出版社
[8]于晓坤 王建萍 人体体型与服装号型的匹配关系及其在电子商务中的应用东华大学学报(自然科学版)2003年2月43～47
[9]孙雄主编 特殊体型服装裁剪 上海科学技术出版社
[10]中国上海地区成人女子体型调查概要
[11]邬红芳 赵宏斌 服装功效学初探人类功效学1999年12月 第5卷 第4期
[12](日)日本人间工学手册编辑委员会编．人间工学手册 日本：金原出版株式会社
[13]姚怡编．服装量体设计的探讨 1994年第四期 服装科技39～40
[14]刘瑜 华东地区女子标准体型研究 中国纺织大学 1998年
[15]钱晓艳 长江三角洲地区女子体型研究 中国纺织大学 1998年
[16]余咏文(香港理工大学) 三维身体测量及和身裁剪服装 纺织导报 1996年6月
[17]邵象清 人体测量手册 上海辞书出版社 1995年
[18]《服装号型》标准课题组编著 国家标准《服装号型》的说明与应用 1991中国标准出版社
[19]夏鹏泽 曾长松 王永成 “中国军人服装用人体尺寸数据库”抽测样本量的确定 服装科技 2002年第7期 55～56
[20]夏鹏泽 曾长松 姜志华 王永成 军人体性特征及其随年龄变化规律纺织学报 2001年第4期
[21]戴鸿 服装号型标准及其应用 1998年5月第一版 81～81
[22]哈洪民 人体静态结构尺寸测量方法及其系统设计 北京服装学院学报2001年3月
[23]AAMRL-TR-88-020, Edward Schafer & Barry T.Bates, Anthropometric Comparisons Between Body Measurements of Men and Mowen(U), June 1988, Air Force Systems Command, Harry G. Armatrong Aerospace Medical Research Laboratory Human Systems Division, Wright-Patterson Air Fore Base, OIHO 45433-6673, 7～13
[24]Body Measurements for the sizing of Women's Patten and Apparel, NBS Voluntory Product Standard (PS42～70) , National Bureau of Standards, September, 1971
[25]Agency of Industrial Science and Technology, MITI,Report of Survey on Japanese Physique for Establishment of Ready-to-Wear Garment Standard, 1978-1981. Japanese Standards Association, Tokyo, 1984
[26]Patterson, Selected Body Measurement of Women Aged Sixty-Five and older. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 1993, Vol. 5,6-16
[2]梅长林 周家良编 实用统计方法 科学出版社
[3]谢季坚 刘承平编 模糊数学方法及其应用(第二版)华中科技大学出版社
[4]俞泳涛 中国军人体型特征分析及基准人体模型的研制 东华大学硕士学位论文
[5]沈卫勤 中老年女子体型及服装消费行为研究 东华大学硕士学位论文
[6]沈迎军 高龄者体型及着装卫生指标研究 东华大学硕士学位论文
[7](日)中泽愈著 人体与服装 中国纺织出版社
[8]于晓坤 王建萍 人体体型与服装号型的匹配关系及其在电子商务中的应用东华大学学报(自然科学版)2003年2月43～47
[9]孙雄主编 特殊体型服装裁剪 上海科学技术出版社
[10]中国上海地区成人女子体型调查概要
[11]邬红芳 赵宏斌 服装功效学初探人类功效学1999年12月 第5卷 第4期
[12](日)日本人间工学手册编辑委员会编．人间工学手册 日本：金原出版株式会社
[13]姚怡编．服装量体设计的探讨 1994年第四期 服装科技39～40
[14]刘瑜 华东地区女子标准体型研究 中国纺织大学 1998年
[15]钱晓艳 长江三角洲地区女子体型研究 中国纺织大学 1998年
[16]余咏文(香港理工大学) 三维身体测量及和身裁剪服装 纺织导报 1996年6月
[17]邵象清 人体测量手册 上海辞书出版社 1995年
[18]《服装号型》标准课题组编著 国家标准《服装号型》的说明与应用 1991中国标准出版社
[19]夏鹏泽 曾长松 王永成 “中国军人服装用人体尺寸数据库”抽测样本量的确定 服装科技 2002年第7期 55～56
[20]夏鹏泽 曾长松 姜志华 王永成 军人体性特征及其随年龄变化规律纺织学报 2001年第4期
[21]戴鸿 服装号型标准及其应用 1998年5月第一版 81～81
[22]哈洪民 人体静态结构尺寸测量方法及其系统设计 北京服装学院学报2001年3月
[23]AAMRL-TR-88-020, Edward Schafer & Barry T.Bates, Anthropometric Comparisons Between Body Measurements of Men and Mowen(U), June 1988, Air Force Systems Command, Harry G. Armatrong Aerospace Medical Research Laboratory Human Systems Division, Wright-Patterson Air Fore Base, OIHO 45433-6673, 7～13
[24]Body Measurements for the sizing of Women's Patten and Apparel, NBS Voluntory Product Standard (PS42～70) , National Bureau of Standards, September, 1971
[25]Agency of Industrial Science and Technology, MITI,Report of Survey on Japanese Physique for Establishment of Ready-to-Wear Garment Standard, 1978-1981. Japanese Standards Association, Tokyo, 1984
[26]Patterson, Selected Body Measurement of Women Aged Sixty-Five and older. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 1993, Vol. 5,6-16