男西服样版细部优化及虚拟显示评价
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摘要
随着经济生活水平的提升,我国消费者对西服的要求越来越高,特别是对个性化形态造型及内在舒适性提出了更高的要求。同时,我国消费者的体型特征发生了一定的变化,尤其是肩部、胸部、腰部、背部等躯干部位,为了更好地满足消费者,使西服更符合人体立体形态特征及运动舒适性需求,西服的样版结构设计必须在细部上进行必要的优化。
本课题来自东华大学与雅戈尔集团科技攻关项目“雅戈尔集团男装体型数据库与版型优化”。本课题的主要任务是建立我国男子人体体型数据库、西服造型研究、版型结构研究、版型结构与工艺配伍研究。
本论文着重研究了男西服样版的优化与工艺配伍,并进行虚拟显示及效果评价,主要研究内容如下：
第一,根据人体工学原理,应用马丁测量法对我国华北东北、华东、华中、西南四大地区20-29岁及30-50岁两年龄段成年男子进行人体测量实验,通过对数据进行统计分析,取得四大地区两年龄段中间体体型数据,通过对成年男性人体肩部、胸部、背部形态特征的把握,参考人体控制部位参数,进行四大地区两年龄段实物人台的研制。
第二,应用以人为本的设计理念,在人体工效学的基础上,对男西服肩部、胸部、背部进行立体设计,依靠样版结构优化设计和与之相配伍的工艺处理来实现服装与人体相关部位静态的吻合。对中间体衣身浮余量进行消除,在传统男西服样版结构设计基础上进行优化设计,制作男西服样衣8件,最后进行人台试穿及效果评价,进而验证男西服样版结构优化合理性。
第三,应用日本AMI公司开发的扁平气囊式压力测试系统在对应实物人台静态着装下的服装压测试,使用模糊数学综合评判对数据进行分析,进而验证男西服样版结构优化合理性。
第四,应用美国PGM公司3D Runway三维虚拟试穿技术验证男西服样衣虚拟试穿效果,根据虚拟试衣效果以及反映服装各部位松紧度的拉紧图,进一步验证男西服样版结构优化合理性。
本论文采用理论分析和生产实践相结合的方法,以人体测量数据为依据,对四大地区两年龄段男西服样版结构优化设计,在样衣验证过程中,采用人台试穿、服装压测试、虚拟试穿三方面验证技术,对样衣进行效果验证,并作出相应的评价,从实践角度验证了男西服样版优化的合理性,具有一定的创新性。
With the economy and people's living standard improving, Chinese consumers have become increasingly demanding for personalized modeling and internal comfortableness of suits At the same time, some changes have taken place about the consumer's body feature, especially the shoulder, chest, waist, back, torso, etc., In order to elevate the satisfaction of customers and make suits more suitable for three-dimensional morphological characteristics of the human body and meet the comfort demand for movements,paper pattern design of suits must adapt to the current characteristics of the consumers in body details.
This research is funded by a cooperative scientific and technological project between Donghua University and Youngor Group, called as "Men's body size database and pattern optimization." The main task of this research includes establishing a database of Chinese male body size, suits modeling study, study on pattern structure and its compatibility with manufacture process.
This paper focused on men's suits pattern optimization and its compatibility with process, virtual display and effect evaluation, the main research contents are as following:
First, according to ergonomic principles, anthropometric test are conducted in four geological regions:North China, Northeast China, eastern China, central China and southwest China, among two age groups:20～29 year-old and 30～50 year-old male adults, using the application Martin measurement method. By statistical and morphological characteristics analysis on adult male human body data of the shoulder, chest, back, which are obtained from above four geological regions and two age blocks, body model of the four regions and two ages are fabricated by referring to parts of the human body control parameters.
Second, by applying the human-oriented design concept,based on ergonomics in the human body,three-dimensional design on men's suit shoulder,chest,back becomes achievable.With structural optimization on pattern design and compatible process,compatibility of garment design and each part of human body is achieved.Eliminating margin of the intermediate floating of body clothing, structural design optimization based on traditional men's suit design is experimented. Eight sets of man's suits are made and then their pattern structure reasonableness are verified on body model to have effect evaluations.
Thirdly, by adoptions of the flat balloon pressure test system developed by Japanese AMI Co., Ltd, pressure test in the corresponding body model is studied. With the use of fuzzy comprehensive evaluation of the data analysis, the reasonableness of men's suit structural optimization is verified.
Fourth, by adopting 3D Runway technology created by US PGM Company, three-dimensional virtual demonstration are tried to verify the effect. According to the virtual apparel fitting results and the strain diagram that reflects the tightness of all parts, further validation on men's suit structural optimization is researched.
This paper uses combined methods of theoretical analysis with production practice. Based on the men's characteristic of two age groups in four major regions, men's suits structural optimization design is achieved. In the clothing verification process, trying on body model, clothing pressure test and virtual apparel fitting technology are applied to effect verification and related evaluation. From a practical point of view, rationality of structural design optimization is proved. The methodology in this paper is considered to have great innovation.
本课题来自东华大学与雅戈尔集团科技攻关项目“雅戈尔集团男装体型数据库与版型优化”。本课题的主要任务是建立我国男子人体体型数据库、西服造型研究、版型结构研究、版型结构与工艺配伍研究。
本论文着重研究了男西服样版的优化与工艺配伍,并进行虚拟显示及效果评价,主要研究内容如下：
第一,根据人体工学原理,应用马丁测量法对我国华北东北、华东、华中、西南四大地区20-29岁及30-50岁两年龄段成年男子进行人体测量实验,通过对数据进行统计分析,取得四大地区两年龄段中间体体型数据,通过对成年男性人体肩部、胸部、背部形态特征的把握,参考人体控制部位参数,进行四大地区两年龄段实物人台的研制。
第二,应用以人为本的设计理念,在人体工效学的基础上,对男西服肩部、胸部、背部进行立体设计,依靠样版结构优化设计和与之相配伍的工艺处理来实现服装与人体相关部位静态的吻合。对中间体衣身浮余量进行消除,在传统男西服样版结构设计基础上进行优化设计,制作男西服样衣8件,最后进行人台试穿及效果评价,进而验证男西服样版结构优化合理性。
第三,应用日本AMI公司开发的扁平气囊式压力测试系统在对应实物人台静态着装下的服装压测试,使用模糊数学综合评判对数据进行分析,进而验证男西服样版结构优化合理性。
第四,应用美国PGM公司3D Runway三维虚拟试穿技术验证男西服样衣虚拟试穿效果,根据虚拟试衣效果以及反映服装各部位松紧度的拉紧图,进一步验证男西服样版结构优化合理性。
本论文采用理论分析和生产实践相结合的方法,以人体测量数据为依据,对四大地区两年龄段男西服样版结构优化设计,在样衣验证过程中,采用人台试穿、服装压测试、虚拟试穿三方面验证技术,对样衣进行效果验证,并作出相应的评价,从实践角度验证了男西服样版优化的合理性,具有一定的创新性。
With the economy and people's living standard improving, Chinese consumers have become increasingly demanding for personalized modeling and internal comfortableness of suits At the same time, some changes have taken place about the consumer's body feature, especially the shoulder, chest, waist, back, torso, etc., In order to elevate the satisfaction of customers and make suits more suitable for three-dimensional morphological characteristics of the human body and meet the comfort demand for movements,paper pattern design of suits must adapt to the current characteristics of the consumers in body details.
This research is funded by a cooperative scientific and technological project between Donghua University and Youngor Group, called as "Men's body size database and pattern optimization." The main task of this research includes establishing a database of Chinese male body size, suits modeling study, study on pattern structure and its compatibility with manufacture process.
This paper focused on men's suits pattern optimization and its compatibility with process, virtual display and effect evaluation, the main research contents are as following:
First, according to ergonomic principles, anthropometric test are conducted in four geological regions:North China, Northeast China, eastern China, central China and southwest China, among two age groups:20～29 year-old and 30～50 year-old male adults, using the application Martin measurement method. By statistical and morphological characteristics analysis on adult male human body data of the shoulder, chest, back, which are obtained from above four geological regions and two age blocks, body model of the four regions and two ages are fabricated by referring to parts of the human body control parameters.
Second, by applying the human-oriented design concept,based on ergonomics in the human body,three-dimensional design on men's suit shoulder,chest,back becomes achievable.With structural optimization on pattern design and compatible process,compatibility of garment design and each part of human body is achieved.Eliminating margin of the intermediate floating of body clothing, structural design optimization based on traditional men's suit design is experimented. Eight sets of man's suits are made and then their pattern structure reasonableness are verified on body model to have effect evaluations.
Thirdly, by adoptions of the flat balloon pressure test system developed by Japanese AMI Co., Ltd, pressure test in the corresponding body model is studied. With the use of fuzzy comprehensive evaluation of the data analysis, the reasonableness of men's suit structural optimization is verified.
Fourth, by adopting 3D Runway technology created by US PGM Company, three-dimensional virtual demonstration are tried to verify the effect. According to the virtual apparel fitting results and the strain diagram that reflects the tightness of all parts, further validation on men's suit structural optimization is researched.
This paper uses combined methods of theoretical analysis with production practice. Based on the men's characteristic of two age groups in four major regions, men's suits structural optimization design is achieved. In the clothing verification process, trying on body model, clothing pressure test and virtual apparel fitting technology are applied to effect verification and related evaluation. From a practical point of view, rationality of structural design optimization is proved. The methodology in this paper is considered to have great innovation.
引文
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[3]戴建国等.男装结构设计[M].杭州：浙江大学出版社.2005
[4]范春红.男西服结构造型的演变[D].北京：北京服装学院.硕士学位论文.2007
[5]石春乐.基于MTM的男西服衣身平衡相关因子配伍性研究[D].上海：东华大学.硕士学位论文.2007
[6]孙喜英.服装用标准女子人体模型的研究和应用[D].上海：东华大学.硕士学位论文.2003
[7]夏鹏泽.服装用标准人体模型的研制与人体测量[J].服装科技.1999,37(6)：15
[8]刘正,张欣,胡淑蓉.我国服装用人台现状分析[J].纺织学报.2006,5
[9]张祖芳,张家铭.标准人台研制与成衣工业[J].纺织学报.1994,15(5)：237-240
[10]吴清萍.男西服骨骼的剖析[J].武汉科技学院报.2004(2)：16-18
[11]http://www.icctcc.com/22398.html
[12]孟祥令,张渭源.服装压力舒适性的研究进展[J].纺织学报.2006,7
[13]陈东生,刘丽杰.男子西装的服装压对舒适性评价的研究---服装压与舒适性的关系[J].长春工业大学学报.2002,23：131-135
[14]徐青青.数字化服装设计与管理[M].北京：中国纺织出版社.2006,5
[15]陆永良,李汝勤,胡金莲.虚拟服装的发展历史和现状[J].纺织学报.2005(1)：132-134
[16]程新瑶.基于MTM技术的贴体女衬衫基型的研究与实现[D].上海：东华大学.硕士学位论文.2008
[17]W.M.Yu,K.W.Yung,Y.L.Lam.Assessment of Garment Fit Proceedings of the HKITA&CTES Conference on Hand-in-hand Marching into 21 century,April 1998
[18]孙金平.服装立体的灵魂枢纽---省[J].山东纺织职业学院.2005“中华杯”国际服装论文集
[19]陈国强.当代中国人类学[M].北京：三联书店.1991
[20]侯莉莉.三地区成年男子肥胖体体型分析及其判别模型的建立[D].上海：东 华大学.硕士学位论文.2008
[21]夏鹏泽等.“中国军人服装用人体尺寸数据库”抽测样本量确定[J].服装科技.2000(7)：55-56
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[23]潘维林.数理统计方法(第2版)[M].北京：人民教育出版社.1982,6
[24]徐迪生.体育统计方法[M].北京：人民体育出版社.1985,2
[25]张文斌.服装结构设计[M].北京：中国纺织出版社.2006,5
[26]刘静茹.基于MTM的男下装结构模型及纸样快速生成研究[D].上海：东华大学.硕士论文.2006
[27]余建英,何旭宏.数据统计分析与SPSS应用[M].北京：人民邮电出版社.2003,6
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