男西服标准体型后身板型特征研究
摘要
西服,是一种体现男性品位的国际性通用服装,至今已有两百多年的历史。在它的发展过程当中,造型和结构特点都历经了变化与改进。现代男士西服从外观轮廓到内部结构已经基本程式化,其简练的造型、加之适用场合广泛;使得这种男士上装受到大批男性消费者的青睐。而随着需求的增加,人们对西服品质各方面提出的要求也越来越高。在评价一件西服的优劣标准中,除了体现男性人体立体、挺括的胸部标准廓型以外,良好的后背立体形态的构筑也是一个非常重要的方面。所以,研究男西服后身板型结构的特点、发展变化,针对影响西服后身结构相关构成要素进行分析、研究,努力使男士西服的结构更加舒适,合体与美观,对促进我国男装领域的向前发展,提高西服工业生产水平具有一定的现实意义。
本文以男西服的后身板型特点为主要内容,首先从历史的角度总结归纳了它的发展变化和类别特征,并分析其结构设计与人体之间的相互关系,在此基础上对影响后背造型结构和合体性的一些因素进行了研究,并通过实验效果论证各相关因素的产生原因,对后身板型的影响,以及从工艺、结构处理方法上进行简单处理的可行性,最终以实物制作的形式来对研究结论进行检测,力求对目前的结构、工艺处理方法进行补充改进,从而逐步完善我国男士西服在理论与结构制作工艺方面的研究。
The Suit is a kind of international general clothing to reflect the male grade, which has history of more than 200 years. In its process of development, the modeling and structural features experienced changes and developments. The modern men’s suit has already been basically stylized from the appearance outline to internal structure, and are fashionable in large number of male because the simple modeling and applicable occasions widely. As demand increased, the request for suit modeling, such as the quality will be more and more. When we evaluate one suit from the specific requirements, except the modeling structure, which in addition to reflect the male human flat chest standard outline model outside, the construction of good configuration for the back is also a very important aspect. So, it has a certain practical significance for the following studies ,such as male suit type structure characteristics, development and change, relevant factors analysis and research effecting on the blade structure suits, which strive to make man suit structure more comfortable, fit and beauty can promote national men's wear field forward development and improve suit industrial production level.
This paper based on the physique type characteristics of men’s suits back as the main content. First, summarizes the change and development of its category feature from a historical perspective. Then analyzes the relationship between structure design and human body. On the basis I studied some of the influence factors of back modeling structure and fit. And after experiment, the results demonstrated the feasibility of the method for the causes of the relative factors, including the function of modeling ,the technology and structure processing. Finally testing research conclusion in kind of the form of making men’s suits. Strive to draw right relevant reference data for domestic man suit industrialized production and bespoke suit type structure after the physique. Adding and completing the current structure, processing methods more. Improved men’s suit production process, rather than easily operation or depend on personal experience and the external condition to control the quality of the products.
本文以男西服的后身板型特点为主要内容,首先从历史的角度总结归纳了它的发展变化和类别特征,并分析其结构设计与人体之间的相互关系,在此基础上对影响后背造型结构和合体性的一些因素进行了研究,并通过实验效果论证各相关因素的产生原因,对后身板型的影响,以及从工艺、结构处理方法上进行简单处理的可行性,最终以实物制作的形式来对研究结论进行检测,力求对目前的结构、工艺处理方法进行补充改进,从而逐步完善我国男士西服在理论与结构制作工艺方面的研究。
The Suit is a kind of international general clothing to reflect the male grade, which has history of more than 200 years. In its process of development, the modeling and structural features experienced changes and developments. The modern men’s suit has already been basically stylized from the appearance outline to internal structure, and are fashionable in large number of male because the simple modeling and applicable occasions widely. As demand increased, the request for suit modeling, such as the quality will be more and more. When we evaluate one suit from the specific requirements, except the modeling structure, which in addition to reflect the male human flat chest standard outline model outside, the construction of good configuration for the back is also a very important aspect. So, it has a certain practical significance for the following studies ,such as male suit type structure characteristics, development and change, relevant factors analysis and research effecting on the blade structure suits, which strive to make man suit structure more comfortable, fit and beauty can promote national men's wear field forward development and improve suit industrial production level.
This paper based on the physique type characteristics of men’s suits back as the main content. First, summarizes the change and development of its category feature from a historical perspective. Then analyzes the relationship between structure design and human body. On the basis I studied some of the influence factors of back modeling structure and fit. And after experiment, the results demonstrated the feasibility of the method for the causes of the relative factors, including the function of modeling ,the technology and structure processing. Finally testing research conclusion in kind of the form of making men’s suits. Strive to draw right relevant reference data for domestic man suit industrialized production and bespoke suit type structure after the physique. Adding and completing the current structure, processing methods more. Improved men’s suit production process, rather than easily operation or depend on personal experience and the external condition to control the quality of the products.
引文
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③李艳艳,男西装造型的演变[J].武汉科技学院学报,2002 .10
④刘瑞璞,男装纸样设计原理与技巧[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2001.09. 145-160
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⑥余国兴服装工业制版[M]东华大学出版社.2009.8. 32
⑦石春乐,基于MTM的男西服衣身平衡相关因子配伍性研究,硕士论文,东华大学2007,38
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[3](日)杉山;男西服技术手册[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2002,05. 90-100
[4](日)文化服装学院,文化女子大学编.文化服装讲座男装专集[M].北京:中国展望出版社.1981.12,89-90.
[5](日)中屋典子,三吉满智子主编;孙兆全,刘美华,金鲜英翻译.服装造型学·技术篇Ⅰ[M].北京:中国纺织出版社.2004, 10. 187
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[17]沈园,邹奉元.品牌男西装结构特征识别研究[J].浙江理工大学学报,第24卷,第1期, 2007.1,46-48
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[22]石春乐,基于MTM的男西服衣身平衡相关因子配伍性研究,硕士论文,东华大学2007.29-51
[23]项铃铃,李云台,服装批量定制中的三维人体测量技术[J],现代纺织技术,2007. 46-49
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[25]纽约时装学院,服装纸样设计原理与应用.北京:中国纺织出版社,2000(4)
[26]王祺明,张文斌,基于浙江省人体特征的男装原型理论和技术的研究[J],东华大学学报(自然科学版),2003,V01.29(6),30—34
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[28]王善珏主编.欧美男装打版技法大全.上海文化出版社,2005年
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[38]范春红.男西服结构造型的演变.硕士论文,北京服装学院2007,4-50
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[40] Farid Chenoune.A History Of Men's Fashion.Flammarion,Paris,1993:85-195.
[41] Norah Waugh Faber.The Cut Of Men’S Clothes 1600 1900.Faber Limited 24 Russell Square London,1964:1-110
[42] W.D.E Vincent.The Cutter’s Practical Guide Part II,Partm,London,The Jolln Williamson Company Limited,1894:1-95
[43] Saulle Guerra(意).Techica Sartofiale:1-156
[44] (日)石川荣治.Men's Fashion Design & Cutting
[45] Journal of Science and Technology. [J].2008, 20, 6
[46] (英)W.D.E Vincent.Jacket Cutting & Making
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