基于袖窿三维形态的女装圆装袖结构优化研究
|
摘要
随着社会的发展,人们对服装造型完美、着装舒适的要求越来越高,而服装结构的优化是满足人们对高质量服装需求的重要问题之一。
对于圆装袖服装,袖窿是衣身和衣袖的结合部位,其形态特征和内部结构同时影响着衣身的造型和衣袖的形态特征,合理的袖窿形态是一件服装衣身结构平衡的验证,又是衣袖造型完美的保证。但由于袖窿的形态特征不直接独立呈现,对其三维形态特征的研究较难,故这方面的研究也相对较少。
本文从袖窿三维形态出发,采用定性和定量相结合的分析方法,着重研究袖窿三维形态与衣身造型和衣袖造型的关系,袖窿三维形态特征与衣身结构和衣袖结构的关系,并在此基础上探讨女装圆装袖结构优化问题。具体研究内容分为以下几个方面：
(1)袖窿三维形态特征描述。课题首先以原型袖窿为基础进行袖窿形态特征的分析,提取影响袖窿形态的因子,阐述袖窿三维形态特征的概念：①袖窿关键点的空间位置确定,包括：肩点、前胸点、后背点、袖窿底点②袖窿与人体臂根围的空间关系③关键点空间位置所控制袖窿弧线的三维形态特征。
(2)袖窿三维形态与衣身造型、衣身结构关系的研究。课题从前后袖窿浮余量变化出发,设计16件不同大小袖窿浮余量的样衣进行实验,定量研究袖窿浮余量变化、袖窿前后浮余量分配与袖窿三维形态特征之间的关系；分析袖窿三维形态特征与衣身结构平衡之间的关系,为服装设计中袖窿浮余量的确定提供依据。
(3)袖窿三维形态与衣袖造型、衣袖结构关系的研究。课题从影响袖窿三维形态的主因子——袖窿底点的位移出发,设计袖窿底点纵向位移和横向位移变化的18件样衣进行实验,测量每件样衣的袖窿形态数据以及衣袖形态特征指数,运用相关分析和回归分析,建立相关的数学模型。针对袖窿底点变化的18个不同形态的袖窿进行配袖实验,研究了袖窿形态特征与配袖结构关系以及袖窿高和袖窿倾斜角度与装袖造型夹角之间的关系。
(4)袖窿三维形态与袖山头风格关系的研究。课题提炼归纳袖山头的风格特征概念,将女装袖山头风格分为三类：尖长形风格、圆弧形风格和圆球形风格。通过对袖窿形态数据的分析,建立袖山头风格所对应的袖窿三维形态模型和袖山弧线结构模型。
(5)验证实验。总结结构模型及其实用方法,并通过包含各不同风格特征元素的综合实例进行模型应用验证。
本文基于理论基础,结合实验研究,对实验数据运用SPSS软件进行分析,建立袖窿浮余量与衣身关系模型、袖窿底点横向变化与衣袖结构关系模型、袖窿底点纵向变化与衣袖结构关系模型、不同袖山头风格与袖窿三维形态特征关系模型,并通过具体实例分析和样衣的制作对所建立的模型进行了检验。
With the development of society, perfect clothing shapes and comfortable dress are being demanded higher and higher, while clothing structural optimization is one of the important issues which are to meet people's demand for high-quality clothing.
For the clothing with basic suit-dress's sleeve, armhole is a combination of body parts and sleeves, and its morphological features and internal structure also affect the shape of body and the form of sleeves. A reasonable armhole is a authentication of apparel structure balance fitting the body and the perfect guarantee of sleeves'shape. However, due to the morphological features of armhole not showing directly and independently, the study on three-dimensional shape is more difficult, so this kind of research is also relatively less.
In this paper, the analysis methods of a qualitative and quantitative combination was used to research the relationship between three-dimensional shape of armhole, which was our research key, and the apparel style、the sleeve style. On this basis, the structural optimization of the basic suit-dress's sleeve was probed into. Specific research was as follows:
(1) The characterization of armhole's three-dimensional shape. First of all, the morphological characteristics of armhole were analyzed based on the prototype of armhole. The impact factor was extracted and the concept of three-dimensional shape was expounded:①The spatial location's key point of armhole was determined including shoulder point, chest width point, back width point and the underarm point.②The spatial relationship between armhole of apparel and arm circumference of human body was ensured.③The three-dimensional morphology of armhole's arc under the control of the spatial location's key point was made certain.
(2) The study on the relationship between armhole's three-dimensional shape and body structure.16 clothes with different sizes of armhole complement were designed based on the changes of complement. The relationship between the allowance of front complement and back complement and the distribution law of them and characteristics of three-dimensional shape of the armhole were researched quantitatively; the relationship between three-dimensional shape of armhole and the balance of body structure was analyzed, which provided a basis to determine the armhole complement.
(3) Study on the relationship between armhole's three-dimensional shape and the sleeve's shape and structural. The main factor impacting three-dimensional shape of armhole-the displacement of underarm point was as the starting point.18 clothing experiments was designed according to the change of vertical and horizontal displacement of underarm point. The form data of apparel's armhole and sleeve morphology index ware measured. The relevant mathematical model was established through the method of correlation analysis and regression analysis. The best match experiments for changes in 18 different forms of the underarm point was done, which was aimed at studying the relationship between morphological characteristics of armhole and the structures of sleeves and the relationship between the height and tilt angle of armhole and angular separation of the fitted shape of sleeve.
(4) Study on the relationship between the three-dimensional shape of armhole and the style of the crown. The concept of the crown style was refined, which divided the crown style of suit-dress into three categories:pointed-long-shaped style, arc-shaped style and spherical style. Through the analysis of morphological data of armhole, a three-dimensional shape model of armhole and the structure model of the crown for the different styles of the crown were established.
(5) Verification experiment. Structure model and its practical approach was aggregated, and model applied verification was carried out about integrated examples containing elements of all different styles.
The paper was based on the combination of theoretical and experimental research. Experimental data was analyzed by SPSS software. Four relations mode establishment were as following:the relation mode between armhole complement and body structure; the relation mode between the horizontal change of underarm point and sleeve structure; the relation mode between the vertical change of underarm point and sleeve structure; the relation mode between different styles of the crown and three-Dimensional shape of the armhole. These models were tested by analysis of concrete examples and the production of clothing.
对于圆装袖服装,袖窿是衣身和衣袖的结合部位,其形态特征和内部结构同时影响着衣身的造型和衣袖的形态特征,合理的袖窿形态是一件服装衣身结构平衡的验证,又是衣袖造型完美的保证。但由于袖窿的形态特征不直接独立呈现,对其三维形态特征的研究较难,故这方面的研究也相对较少。
本文从袖窿三维形态出发,采用定性和定量相结合的分析方法,着重研究袖窿三维形态与衣身造型和衣袖造型的关系,袖窿三维形态特征与衣身结构和衣袖结构的关系,并在此基础上探讨女装圆装袖结构优化问题。具体研究内容分为以下几个方面：
(1)袖窿三维形态特征描述。课题首先以原型袖窿为基础进行袖窿形态特征的分析,提取影响袖窿形态的因子,阐述袖窿三维形态特征的概念：①袖窿关键点的空间位置确定,包括：肩点、前胸点、后背点、袖窿底点②袖窿与人体臂根围的空间关系③关键点空间位置所控制袖窿弧线的三维形态特征。
(2)袖窿三维形态与衣身造型、衣身结构关系的研究。课题从前后袖窿浮余量变化出发,设计16件不同大小袖窿浮余量的样衣进行实验,定量研究袖窿浮余量变化、袖窿前后浮余量分配与袖窿三维形态特征之间的关系；分析袖窿三维形态特征与衣身结构平衡之间的关系,为服装设计中袖窿浮余量的确定提供依据。
(3)袖窿三维形态与衣袖造型、衣袖结构关系的研究。课题从影响袖窿三维形态的主因子——袖窿底点的位移出发,设计袖窿底点纵向位移和横向位移变化的18件样衣进行实验,测量每件样衣的袖窿形态数据以及衣袖形态特征指数,运用相关分析和回归分析,建立相关的数学模型。针对袖窿底点变化的18个不同形态的袖窿进行配袖实验,研究了袖窿形态特征与配袖结构关系以及袖窿高和袖窿倾斜角度与装袖造型夹角之间的关系。
(4)袖窿三维形态与袖山头风格关系的研究。课题提炼归纳袖山头的风格特征概念,将女装袖山头风格分为三类：尖长形风格、圆弧形风格和圆球形风格。通过对袖窿形态数据的分析,建立袖山头风格所对应的袖窿三维形态模型和袖山弧线结构模型。
(5)验证实验。总结结构模型及其实用方法,并通过包含各不同风格特征元素的综合实例进行模型应用验证。
本文基于理论基础,结合实验研究,对实验数据运用SPSS软件进行分析,建立袖窿浮余量与衣身关系模型、袖窿底点横向变化与衣袖结构关系模型、袖窿底点纵向变化与衣袖结构关系模型、不同袖山头风格与袖窿三维形态特征关系模型,并通过具体实例分析和样衣的制作对所建立的模型进行了检验。
With the development of society, perfect clothing shapes and comfortable dress are being demanded higher and higher, while clothing structural optimization is one of the important issues which are to meet people's demand for high-quality clothing.
For the clothing with basic suit-dress's sleeve, armhole is a combination of body parts and sleeves, and its morphological features and internal structure also affect the shape of body and the form of sleeves. A reasonable armhole is a authentication of apparel structure balance fitting the body and the perfect guarantee of sleeves'shape. However, due to the morphological features of armhole not showing directly and independently, the study on three-dimensional shape is more difficult, so this kind of research is also relatively less.
In this paper, the analysis methods of a qualitative and quantitative combination was used to research the relationship between three-dimensional shape of armhole, which was our research key, and the apparel style、the sleeve style. On this basis, the structural optimization of the basic suit-dress's sleeve was probed into. Specific research was as follows:
(1) The characterization of armhole's three-dimensional shape. First of all, the morphological characteristics of armhole were analyzed based on the prototype of armhole. The impact factor was extracted and the concept of three-dimensional shape was expounded:①The spatial location's key point of armhole was determined including shoulder point, chest width point, back width point and the underarm point.②The spatial relationship between armhole of apparel and arm circumference of human body was ensured.③The three-dimensional morphology of armhole's arc under the control of the spatial location's key point was made certain.
(2) The study on the relationship between armhole's three-dimensional shape and body structure.16 clothes with different sizes of armhole complement were designed based on the changes of complement. The relationship between the allowance of front complement and back complement and the distribution law of them and characteristics of three-dimensional shape of the armhole were researched quantitatively; the relationship between three-dimensional shape of armhole and the balance of body structure was analyzed, which provided a basis to determine the armhole complement.
(3) Study on the relationship between armhole's three-dimensional shape and the sleeve's shape and structural. The main factor impacting three-dimensional shape of armhole-the displacement of underarm point was as the starting point.18 clothing experiments was designed according to the change of vertical and horizontal displacement of underarm point. The form data of apparel's armhole and sleeve morphology index ware measured. The relevant mathematical model was established through the method of correlation analysis and regression analysis. The best match experiments for changes in 18 different forms of the underarm point was done, which was aimed at studying the relationship between morphological characteristics of armhole and the structures of sleeves and the relationship between the height and tilt angle of armhole and angular separation of the fitted shape of sleeve.
(4) Study on the relationship between the three-dimensional shape of armhole and the style of the crown. The concept of the crown style was refined, which divided the crown style of suit-dress into three categories:pointed-long-shaped style, arc-shaped style and spherical style. Through the analysis of morphological data of armhole, a three-dimensional shape model of armhole and the structure model of the crown for the different styles of the crown were established.
(5) Verification experiment. Structure model and its practical approach was aggregated, and model applied verification was carried out about integrated examples containing elements of all different styles.
The paper was based on the combination of theoretical and experimental research. Experimental data was analyzed by SPSS software. Four relations mode establishment were as following:the relation mode between armhole complement and body structure; the relation mode between the horizontal change of underarm point and sleeve structure; the relation mode between the vertical change of underarm point and sleeve structure; the relation mode between different styles of the crown and three-Dimensional shape of the armhole. These models were tested by analysis of concrete examples and the production of clothing.
引文
[1].[日]三吉满智子,服装造型学理论篇,第1版,北京：中国纺织出版社,2006
[2].[日]饭堫弘子,服装设计学概论,第1版,北京：中国轻工业出版社,2002
[3].刘晓刚,崔玉梅,基础服装设计,第2版,上海：东华大学出版社,2004
[4].刘晓君.圆装袖的结构设计与运动舒适性的关系.黑龙江纺织,2003年,02期：P38-40.
[5].詹淑灵.两片袖的袖山缩缝量分配及对位点研究.中原工学院学报,2003年,03期：P38-40.
[6].刘东.袖山头弧线缩缝量及衣袖与衣身装配位置的确定方法.国际纺织导报,2005年,10期：P75-79.
[7].姚忠妹,张文斌,张渭源.袖山结构模型和结构设计方法的探讨.东华大学学报(自然科学版),1999年,06期,P70-74.
[8].张道英.袖山与袖窿对位点的研究——兼论衣袖与衣身的对格.纺织学报,1999年,02期：P108-113.
[9].杨玉芝.关于袖山高的合理确定.辽宁师专学报,2001年,03期：P86-88.
[10].张金梅,刘瑞璞.AH/3作为标准袖山高的合理性.天津工业大学学报,2004年,05期：P86-88.
[11].刘瑞璞,服装纸样设计原理与技术女装篇,第1版,北京：中国纺织出版社,2005
[12].沈忠明.新旧文化原型之比较(续篇)——女装原型衣袖篇.温州职业技术学院学报,2005年,05期：P62-64.
[13].石春乐,刘冠彬,张文斌.袖山高与衣袖造型的配伍关系研究.西安工程科技学院学报,2006年,03期：P284287.
[14].刘承芳.基于风格特征的衣袖结构设计研究.[D]硕士学位论文,2008年3月
[15].张文斌,服装工艺学(结构设计分册),第3版,上海：中国纺织出版社,2000
[16].吴俊.女装结构设计与应用.2000北京：中国纺织出版社
[17].余国兴.女装结构设计与应用.2000北京：中国纺织出版社
[18].姜连军等.新编服装结构设计理论与应用.1997北京：中国纺织出版社
[19].甘应进,刘辉,姜岩等.原型袖窿结构的设计.纺织学报,2001年,02期：P113-120.
[20].郭杨.基于衣袖和人体配伍关系的袖筒旋转理论研究.[D]硕士学位论文,2008年
[21].张志斌.袖山、袖型、袖窿之间的关系探讨.邢台职业技术学院学报,2005年,05期：P27-29.
[22].刘雁,耿兆丰.智能技术在服装工业生产中的应用研究.[J]东华大学学报,2002年,04期：P123-125.
[23].[日]中泽愈,人体与服装,第1版,北京：中国纺织出版社,2000
[24].冯冀,张祖芳,现代服装设计与制作〔中级),2004年3月,第1版,中国劳动社会保障出版社,北京,P172-192.
[25].沈忠明.新旧文化原型之比较——女装原型衣袖篇.温州职业技术学院学报,2004年,03期：P46-48.
[26].薛薇,SPSS统计分析方法及应用,2004北京：电子工业出版社
[27].董加礼,曹旭东,史明仁,数学模型,1990北京：北京工业大学出版社
[28].张莉,刘国联,服装市场调研分析—SPSS的应用,2003北京,中国纺织出版社,
[29].first view/COLLEZION国际女装流行趋势,[J]中国纺织信息中心,2006-2007年,113期
[30].first view/COLLEZIONI.国际女装流行趋势,[J]中国纺织信息中心,2006-2007年,115期
[31].REPORT pret-a-porter fall/winter.国际女装流行趋势,[J]国际流行公报,2007-2008年,10期
[32].http://baike.baidu.com/view/530652.html?wtp=t
[33].周丽华.平衡于人体动静态的上装结构配伍技术研究.[D]硕士学位论文,2005年
[34].赵晓敏.基于参数化特征的衣袖结构技术研究.[D]硕士学位论文,2007年1月
[35].戴玮,张祖芳.衣袖结构数学模型建立与几何参数推导.纺织学报,2002年,03期：P56-57.
[36].胡建鹏,耿兆丰,张立宁.基于款式平面图的服装款式三维造型点的获取研究.第十二届全国图象图形学学术会议论文集,P699-702.
[37].谢红.女性形体识别及服装类别原型生成.[D]博士学位论文,2002年7月
[38].赵苏庆.女装二维样板至三维立体展示的评价系统.[D]硕士学位论文,2006年
[39].徐宏文.高等画法几何.1987天津：天津科学出版社
[40].李晓燕.上装放松量设计探讨.丝绸,2004年,10期：P26-27.
[41].李月.服装原型理论与实践的探讨.[D]硕士学位论文,2000年
[42].王金变.服装样板一片袖三维基本模型的建立及应用.天津师范大学学报(自然科学版),2005年,03期,P69-71.
[43].王宏付,林意.一种袖窿曲线CAD的优化设计方法.东华大学学报(自然科学版),2006年,05期：P87-90.
[44].张金梅,刘瑞璞.AH/3作为标准袖山高的合理性.天津工业大学学报,2004年,05期,P86-88.
[45].赵晓玲,刘瑞璞.变形亚基本纸样袖窿弧线内凹量专家知识的建立.北京服装学院学报,2006年,03期,P4650.
[46].孙熊.特殊体型服装裁剪.1994上海.上海科学技术出版社
[47].潘健华,服装人体工效学与服装设计,2000北京：中国轻工业出版社
[48].张祖芳,纪万秋,原型法结构设计要领,2001年7月,第1版,上海科学技术出版社,上海,P31-35,53-58
[49].张辛可,结构设计大全,2003南昌：江西美术出版社
[50].先梅,服装梅式原型直裁法讲座,2000北京：中国纺织出版
[51]. Thong-Hwee Koh, Eng-Wah Lee, Yong-Tsui Lee.An object-oriented model of apparel pattern making. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.1987年,05期：P367379.
[52].Ishigaki,K.Clothing for people with physcial handicaps.16th World Congress of 52International Federation for Home Economics.1988
[2].[日]饭堫弘子,服装设计学概论,第1版,北京：中国轻工业出版社,2002
[3].刘晓刚,崔玉梅,基础服装设计,第2版,上海：东华大学出版社,2004
[4].刘晓君.圆装袖的结构设计与运动舒适性的关系.黑龙江纺织,2003年,02期：P38-40.
[5].詹淑灵.两片袖的袖山缩缝量分配及对位点研究.中原工学院学报,2003年,03期：P38-40.
[6].刘东.袖山头弧线缩缝量及衣袖与衣身装配位置的确定方法.国际纺织导报,2005年,10期：P75-79.
[7].姚忠妹,张文斌,张渭源.袖山结构模型和结构设计方法的探讨.东华大学学报(自然科学版),1999年,06期,P70-74.
[8].张道英.袖山与袖窿对位点的研究——兼论衣袖与衣身的对格.纺织学报,1999年,02期：P108-113.
[9].杨玉芝.关于袖山高的合理确定.辽宁师专学报,2001年,03期：P86-88.
[10].张金梅,刘瑞璞.AH/3作为标准袖山高的合理性.天津工业大学学报,2004年,05期：P86-88.
[11].刘瑞璞,服装纸样设计原理与技术女装篇,第1版,北京：中国纺织出版社,2005
[12].沈忠明.新旧文化原型之比较(续篇)——女装原型衣袖篇.温州职业技术学院学报,2005年,05期：P62-64.
[13].石春乐,刘冠彬,张文斌.袖山高与衣袖造型的配伍关系研究.西安工程科技学院学报,2006年,03期：P284287.
[14].刘承芳.基于风格特征的衣袖结构设计研究.[D]硕士学位论文,2008年3月
[15].张文斌,服装工艺学(结构设计分册),第3版,上海：中国纺织出版社,2000
[16].吴俊.女装结构设计与应用.2000北京：中国纺织出版社
[17].余国兴.女装结构设计与应用.2000北京：中国纺织出版社
[18].姜连军等.新编服装结构设计理论与应用.1997北京：中国纺织出版社
[19].甘应进,刘辉,姜岩等.原型袖窿结构的设计.纺织学报,2001年,02期：P113-120.
[20].郭杨.基于衣袖和人体配伍关系的袖筒旋转理论研究.[D]硕士学位论文,2008年
[21].张志斌.袖山、袖型、袖窿之间的关系探讨.邢台职业技术学院学报,2005年,05期：P27-29.
[22].刘雁,耿兆丰.智能技术在服装工业生产中的应用研究.[J]东华大学学报,2002年,04期：P123-125.
[23].[日]中泽愈,人体与服装,第1版,北京：中国纺织出版社,2000
[24].冯冀,张祖芳,现代服装设计与制作〔中级),2004年3月,第1版,中国劳动社会保障出版社,北京,P172-192.
[25].沈忠明.新旧文化原型之比较——女装原型衣袖篇.温州职业技术学院学报,2004年,03期：P46-48.
[26].薛薇,SPSS统计分析方法及应用,2004北京：电子工业出版社
[27].董加礼,曹旭东,史明仁,数学模型,1990北京：北京工业大学出版社
[28].张莉,刘国联,服装市场调研分析—SPSS的应用,2003北京,中国纺织出版社,
[29].first view/COLLEZION国际女装流行趋势,[J]中国纺织信息中心,2006-2007年,113期
[30].first view/COLLEZIONI.国际女装流行趋势,[J]中国纺织信息中心,2006-2007年,115期
[31].REPORT pret-a-porter fall/winter.国际女装流行趋势,[J]国际流行公报,2007-2008年,10期
[32].http://baike.baidu.com/view/530652.html?wtp=t
[33].周丽华.平衡于人体动静态的上装结构配伍技术研究.[D]硕士学位论文,2005年
[34].赵晓敏.基于参数化特征的衣袖结构技术研究.[D]硕士学位论文,2007年1月
[35].戴玮,张祖芳.衣袖结构数学模型建立与几何参数推导.纺织学报,2002年,03期：P56-57.
[36].胡建鹏,耿兆丰,张立宁.基于款式平面图的服装款式三维造型点的获取研究.第十二届全国图象图形学学术会议论文集,P699-702.
[37].谢红.女性形体识别及服装类别原型生成.[D]博士学位论文,2002年7月
[38].赵苏庆.女装二维样板至三维立体展示的评价系统.[D]硕士学位论文,2006年
[39].徐宏文.高等画法几何.1987天津：天津科学出版社
[40].李晓燕.上装放松量设计探讨.丝绸,2004年,10期：P26-27.
[41].李月.服装原型理论与实践的探讨.[D]硕士学位论文,2000年
[42].王金变.服装样板一片袖三维基本模型的建立及应用.天津师范大学学报(自然科学版),2005年,03期,P69-71.
[43].王宏付,林意.一种袖窿曲线CAD的优化设计方法.东华大学学报(自然科学版),2006年,05期：P87-90.
[44].张金梅,刘瑞璞.AH/3作为标准袖山高的合理性.天津工业大学学报,2004年,05期,P86-88.
[45].赵晓玲,刘瑞璞.变形亚基本纸样袖窿弧线内凹量专家知识的建立.北京服装学院学报,2006年,03期,P4650.
[46].孙熊.特殊体型服装裁剪.1994上海.上海科学技术出版社
[47].潘健华,服装人体工效学与服装设计,2000北京：中国轻工业出版社
[48].张祖芳,纪万秋,原型法结构设计要领,2001年7月,第1版,上海科学技术出版社,上海,P31-35,53-58
[49].张辛可,结构设计大全,2003南昌：江西美术出版社
[50].先梅,服装梅式原型直裁法讲座,2000北京：中国纺织出版
[51]. Thong-Hwee Koh, Eng-Wah Lee, Yong-Tsui Lee.An object-oriented model of apparel pattern making. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.1987年,05期：P367379.
[52].Ishigaki,K.Clothing for people with physcial handicaps.16th World Congress of 52International Federation for Home Economics.1988