配袖技术研究
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摘要
袖子是服装结构中的一个重要组成部分,它不仅关系到整件服装的款式、风格、造型特点和结构变化,更关系到整件服装的舒适程度。在袖子的制版中,手臂决定了袖子的结构,而臂根决定了衣身袖窿的结构,因此,在袖子配制之前,我们不仅要分析人体手臂的结构,还要分析臂根的结构,从而准确的确定衣身袖窿及袖子结构,明确袖子的袖山与袖窿之间的相互制约、相互吻合关系,为袖子配制奠定基础。
在袖子配制中,袖山高的尺寸是决定袖型重要的技术数据。原型法配制袖子时,袖山高尺寸是根据袖窿的比例确定的,所以衣身袖窿与袖子袖山比较吻合；在比例式分配法配袖技术中,袖山的高度是以胸围的尺寸按比例计算进行确定,割裂了袖子与袖窿之间的关系,因此容易出现袖子的袖山与衣身袖窿不匹配的现象。究其原因,是由于袖子制版自为一体,忽略了袖子与衣身袖窿的相互吻合关系。
自改革开放以来中国的服装产业虽然发展很迅速,但是却没有真正达到与世界服装产业的全面接轨。目前,国内大多数服装企业生产中服装制版基本都是采用国内传统的比例式裁剪法,这是因为,比例式裁剪法已经成为我国大多数制版师习惯的制版方法,并且比例式裁剪法适合我国大批量的服装加工生产。然而,虽然比例式裁剪法经历了实践经验总结后的升华具有较强的实用性,但是不得不承认它还具有一定的狭隘性。例如：比例式裁剪法比较程式化,不适合造型丰富的款式制版,计算公式比较繁琐,不容易掌握,难免出现纸样设计的不合理性等等；而原型法与比例式相比较,其配袖方法比较多,例如原型配袖法、袖窿配袖法以及展放配袖方法,并且使用起来方便快捷,容易理解和掌握。本文通过具体案例研究分析,运用比例式裁剪法与原型制版法的比较,研究袖子的配制技术。希望能为提高我国服装企业的制版技术做出一些努力。
Sleeve garment structure is an important part, it not only to the whole style of clothing, style, styling features and structural changes, also related to the whole garment comfort. The plate in the sleeve, the arm determines the structure of the sleeve, and arm the root determines the structure of the body piece armhole, so sleeve preparation, we must not only analyze the structure of human arm, arm root structure to accurately determine the body piece armhole and sleeve structure, clear sleeve hole structure and interactions among, mutual agreement between the basis for the preparation of the sleeve.
Preparation in sleeves, the sleeves the size of a sleeve height is an important decision sleeves type of technical data. Prototype preparation sleeve, the sleeve of high dimensions is based on armhole ratio determined, so the body piece armhole and sleeve mountain in good agreement; in proportional with sleeve technology, the sleeve height is a bust size of a prorate basis to ok, have cut the sleeves and armhole relationship exists between the sleeve armhole and body piece between the mismatch.
Although China's garment industry has developed very rapidly, but not really up with the world garment industry, the overall integration. Currently, most of the clothing enterprise applications are cutting domestic traditional proportional method, because, the mode is the traditional cutting methods, have been deeply rooted in China, and many plate-making division has become a habit, and large Comparison of volume is also applicable to garment production. Proportional after a long practice and summary, though there are many advantages, but have to admit that it has certain narrow-mindedness. For example:the proportion of law limits the designer's thinking not suitable for modeling a rich style, more stylized; more complicated formula, it is inevitable error; sleeve printing plate in accordance with the basis for plate making finished chest, sleeves and clothing out of the relationship between body. The prototype and the proportional comparison of their methods with sleeves more, the prototype with a sleeve, sleeve hole with a sleeve, and with sleeves cut development of methods and practical up easy to understand, easy to understand and grasp. Paper through the analysis of specific cases, using the proportional method and prototype cutting plate method comparison study of preparation techniques sleeves. Hope for more Chinese garment enterprises, to a reasonable use of more suitable methods of Chinese fashion plate, and with sleeve technology.
在袖子配制中,袖山高的尺寸是决定袖型重要的技术数据。原型法配制袖子时,袖山高尺寸是根据袖窿的比例确定的,所以衣身袖窿与袖子袖山比较吻合；在比例式分配法配袖技术中,袖山的高度是以胸围的尺寸按比例计算进行确定,割裂了袖子与袖窿之间的关系,因此容易出现袖子的袖山与衣身袖窿不匹配的现象。究其原因,是由于袖子制版自为一体,忽略了袖子与衣身袖窿的相互吻合关系。
自改革开放以来中国的服装产业虽然发展很迅速,但是却没有真正达到与世界服装产业的全面接轨。目前,国内大多数服装企业生产中服装制版基本都是采用国内传统的比例式裁剪法,这是因为,比例式裁剪法已经成为我国大多数制版师习惯的制版方法,并且比例式裁剪法适合我国大批量的服装加工生产。然而,虽然比例式裁剪法经历了实践经验总结后的升华具有较强的实用性,但是不得不承认它还具有一定的狭隘性。例如：比例式裁剪法比较程式化,不适合造型丰富的款式制版,计算公式比较繁琐,不容易掌握,难免出现纸样设计的不合理性等等；而原型法与比例式相比较,其配袖方法比较多,例如原型配袖法、袖窿配袖法以及展放配袖方法,并且使用起来方便快捷,容易理解和掌握。本文通过具体案例研究分析,运用比例式裁剪法与原型制版法的比较,研究袖子的配制技术。希望能为提高我国服装企业的制版技术做出一些努力。
Sleeve garment structure is an important part, it not only to the whole style of clothing, style, styling features and structural changes, also related to the whole garment comfort. The plate in the sleeve, the arm determines the structure of the sleeve, and arm the root determines the structure of the body piece armhole, so sleeve preparation, we must not only analyze the structure of human arm, arm root structure to accurately determine the body piece armhole and sleeve structure, clear sleeve hole structure and interactions among, mutual agreement between the basis for the preparation of the sleeve.
Preparation in sleeves, the sleeves the size of a sleeve height is an important decision sleeves type of technical data. Prototype preparation sleeve, the sleeve of high dimensions is based on armhole ratio determined, so the body piece armhole and sleeve mountain in good agreement; in proportional with sleeve technology, the sleeve height is a bust size of a prorate basis to ok, have cut the sleeves and armhole relationship exists between the sleeve armhole and body piece between the mismatch.
Although China's garment industry has developed very rapidly, but not really up with the world garment industry, the overall integration. Currently, most of the clothing enterprise applications are cutting domestic traditional proportional method, because, the mode is the traditional cutting methods, have been deeply rooted in China, and many plate-making division has become a habit, and large Comparison of volume is also applicable to garment production. Proportional after a long practice and summary, though there are many advantages, but have to admit that it has certain narrow-mindedness. For example:the proportion of law limits the designer's thinking not suitable for modeling a rich style, more stylized; more complicated formula, it is inevitable error; sleeve printing plate in accordance with the basis for plate making finished chest, sleeves and clothing out of the relationship between body. The prototype and the proportional comparison of their methods with sleeves more, the prototype with a sleeve, sleeve hole with a sleeve, and with sleeves cut development of methods and practical up easy to understand, easy to understand and grasp. Paper through the analysis of specific cases, using the proportional method and prototype cutting plate method comparison study of preparation techniques sleeves. Hope for more Chinese garment enterprises, to a reasonable use of more suitable methods of Chinese fashion plate, and with sleeve technology.
引文
[1]吴经熊孔志著《服装袖型设计的原理与技巧》上海科学技术出版社出版2007-7-1
[2]鲍卫君张芬芬编著《服装裁剪使用手册袖型篇》东华大学出版社出版2005-8
[3]鲍卫君陈荣富编著《服装裁剪实用手册上装篇》东华大学出版社出版2008-7
[4]熊能著《世界经典服装设计与纸样女装篇》下集江西美术出版社出版2007-10-1
[5]牛海波编《服装裁剪》农村劳动力转移技能培训用书 机械工业出版社出版2008-1
[6]鲍卫君张芬芬编著《服装裁剪实用手册袖型篇》东华大学出版社出版2009-2
[7]吴经熊孔志著《服装版型出样技术》化学工业出版社出版2007-10
[8]吴经熊孔志著《最新时装配袖技术》上海科技技术出版社出版2007-6
[9][日]文华学院编范树林文家琴编译《新版文化服装讲座》中国轻工业出版社出版1998-7
[10]刘建智著《服装结构原理与原型工业制版》中国纺织出版社出版2009-6
[11][日]文化服装学院编服装造型讲3女衬衫·连衣裙东华大学出版社出版2004-9
[12][日]文化服装学院编服装造型讲4套装·背心东华大学出版社出版2004-12
[13][日]文化服装学院编服装造型讲5大衣·披风东华大学出版社出版2004-12
[14]张孝庞桂仁义著《服装打版技术全篇》上海文化出版社出版2005-8
[15]葛俊康著《衣身结构大全与原理》(上)东华大学出版社出版2006-8
[16]葛俊康著《衣身结构大全与原理》(中)东华大学出版社出版2006-10-01
[17]张向辉于晓坤编著《女装结构设计》华夏大学出版社出版2009-4-1
[18]王允编著《泰山学院学报》2009年11月第31卷第六期
[19]刘松龄编著《服装纸样设计》(上册)服装专业高职高专推荐教材中国纺织出版社出版2008-12
[20]刘松龄编著《服装纸样设计》(下册)服装专业高职高专推荐教材中国纺织出版社出版2009-7
[21]王海亮主编《服装裁剪制作入门》修订版金盾出版社出版2010-1
[22]王东辉主编姜立主审《跟我学裁剪》实用毛份裁剪法辽宁科学技术出版社出版1998-8
[23]牛海波主编《服装裁剪与缝制入门》机械工业出版社出版2009-6
[2]鲍卫君张芬芬编著《服装裁剪使用手册袖型篇》东华大学出版社出版2005-8
[3]鲍卫君陈荣富编著《服装裁剪实用手册上装篇》东华大学出版社出版2008-7
[4]熊能著《世界经典服装设计与纸样女装篇》下集江西美术出版社出版2007-10-1
[5]牛海波编《服装裁剪》农村劳动力转移技能培训用书 机械工业出版社出版2008-1
[6]鲍卫君张芬芬编著《服装裁剪实用手册袖型篇》东华大学出版社出版2009-2
[7]吴经熊孔志著《服装版型出样技术》化学工业出版社出版2007-10
[8]吴经熊孔志著《最新时装配袖技术》上海科技技术出版社出版2007-6
[9][日]文华学院编范树林文家琴编译《新版文化服装讲座》中国轻工业出版社出版1998-7
[10]刘建智著《服装结构原理与原型工业制版》中国纺织出版社出版2009-6
[11][日]文化服装学院编服装造型讲3女衬衫·连衣裙东华大学出版社出版2004-9
[12][日]文化服装学院编服装造型讲4套装·背心东华大学出版社出版2004-12
[13][日]文化服装学院编服装造型讲5大衣·披风东华大学出版社出版2004-12
[14]张孝庞桂仁义著《服装打版技术全篇》上海文化出版社出版2005-8
[15]葛俊康著《衣身结构大全与原理》(上)东华大学出版社出版2006-8
[16]葛俊康著《衣身结构大全与原理》(中)东华大学出版社出版2006-10-01
[17]张向辉于晓坤编著《女装结构设计》华夏大学出版社出版2009-4-1
[18]王允编著《泰山学院学报》2009年11月第31卷第六期
[19]刘松龄编著《服装纸样设计》(上册)服装专业高职高专推荐教材中国纺织出版社出版2008-12
[20]刘松龄编著《服装纸样设计》(下册)服装专业高职高专推荐教材中国纺织出版社出版2009-7
[21]王海亮主编《服装裁剪制作入门》修订版金盾出版社出版2010-1
[22]王东辉主编姜立主审《跟我学裁剪》实用毛份裁剪法辽宁科学技术出版社出版1998-8
[23]牛海波主编《服装裁剪与缝制入门》机械工业出版社出版2009-6