经编无缝上衣的压力舒适性研究及优化设计
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摘要
随着生活水平的提高,人们对服装舒适性的要求也日益趋高,除热湿舒适性和感觉舒适性外,压力舒适性已逐渐成为衡量服装穿着舒适性的主要指标之一。经编无缝服装于近几年发展迅速,研究领域主要在编织工艺、花纹设计以及尺寸规格的研究方面,至今尚未有关于经编无缝服装压力舒适性的研究报道。课题通过研究人体不同状态下穿着经编无缝上衣的压力舒适性以及舒适压分布规律,探讨贾卡分区设计的方法,优化经编无缝服装的舒适性。
本课题对国内外有关服装压力舒适性和经编无缝服装的研究文献进行了查阅和综述,概述了服装压力舒适性的有关概念,探讨了服装压的影响因素。课题对不同状态下经编无缝服装的压力舒适性以及贾卡优化设计的方法进行了研究。采用非接触式三维人体扫描仪获取人体形态特征从而确定实验对象,并根据人体工效学原理、人体结构特点以及预实验确定压力待测点。实验以花高花宽、原料、款式以及地组织相同而贾卡组织不同的3件单色经编无缝上衣作为实验试样,挑选25名体型符合160/84A号型区域的青年女性试穿,运用压力传感器测试法对上体的不同部位进行客观压力测试,并同时进行主观舒适性评价。通过模糊综合评判决策和模糊意见集中决策的方法对不同状态下各部位的客观压力分布和主观压力舒适度进行研究,得到各部位的舒适压力范围,并从服装压力敏感度和承受压力的能力这两个角度来分析各部位的舒适压分布。最后通过对贾卡织物的拉伸弹性实验以及服装压力测量,探讨贾卡组织的厚薄效应对服装压的影响,提出贾卡分区优化设计的方法来改善并优化经编无缝服装的压力舒适性。
本课题研究认为穿着经编无缝上衣时,肩部和胸部的舒适压敏感度较低而承压能力较强,腰部和背部的舒适压敏感度较高而承受压力的能力较弱,侧缝的承压能力最弱;织物贾卡组织的厚薄效应与服装压大小呈正相关关系,即织物的贾卡组织效应越厚,对人体产生的服装压将越大;贾卡组织效应越薄,对人体产生的服装压将越小;腰部和背部可优先考虑稀薄效应的贾卡组织或网孔组织,肩部和胸部这两个部位组织结构的选用范围比较宽泛,组织设计不再是这两个部位设计的重点,侧缝部可优先选用薄组织或网孔组织以改善对人体的压迫感。
With the improvement of living standards, clothing comfort requirements for people are increasingly becoming higher. In addition to feeling comfort, heat and moisture comfort, the pressure comfort has become one of the key indicators to measure of wearing comfort. Warp knitted seamless garment has developed rapidly in recent years, and the research is mainly about weaving, pattern design and dimensions. There have not been research reports on pressure comfort. By studying pressure comfort and comfortable pressure distribution of warp seamless garment under different conditions, it researched the jacquard partition design to optimize comfort of warp knitted seamless garment.
The subject summarizes the domestic and international relevant research literatures on clothing pressure comfort and warp knitted seamless garment. It overviewed of the concept of clothing pressure comfort and influence factor of clothing pressure. In this subject pressure comfort of warp knitted seamless garment and the jacquard optimal design were studied. Non-contact three-dimensional body scanner was used to acquire human morphology in order to determine experimental subject. And it determined the pressure test points according to ergonomics principles, structural characteristics of the human body and pre-experiment. This thesis used 3 pieces of women’s warp knitted seamless garment as the experimental samples. They had the same pattern height, pattern width, material, style, and ground weave, but different in jacquard fabric. In this thesis 25 young women in size 160/84A were selected to try those samples. Pressure in different part of upper body was measured with objective testing method and at the same time the subjective pressure comfort rating was conducted. Fuzzy comprehensive evaluation and fuzzy centralized decision-making were used to studied objective pressure distribution and subjective pressure comfort of warp seamless garment under different conditions. It got the comfortable range in parts of the upper body and conducted pressure comfort analysis in terms of pressure sensitive and the ability to pressure. Finally, by pressure measurement and given elongation tensile test of jacquard fabric, the relationship between jacquard organizational structure and clothing pressure was discussed. This paper presented a method of jacquard partition design to improve pressure comfort of warp knitted seamless garment.
The results of this study show that when warp knitted seamless garment is worn, the pressure sensitive of shoulder and chest is low and the ability to pressure is strong. The pressure sensitive of waist and back is high and the ability to pressure is weak. And the ability to pressure of side seam is the weakest. Jacquard organizational structure and clothing pressure were positively correlated. When jacquard organizational effect was thicker, the pressure on the human body would be greater and when jacquard organizational effect was thinner, the pressure would be smaller. Waist and back of body can be given thin jacquard or mesh organization. Jacquard organization of shoulder and chest can be broad and wide, and structure design is no longer the focus of design in this both parts. Side seam can be preferred to given thin organization or mesh organization in order to improve the pressure comfort of human body.
本课题对国内外有关服装压力舒适性和经编无缝服装的研究文献进行了查阅和综述,概述了服装压力舒适性的有关概念,探讨了服装压的影响因素。课题对不同状态下经编无缝服装的压力舒适性以及贾卡优化设计的方法进行了研究。采用非接触式三维人体扫描仪获取人体形态特征从而确定实验对象,并根据人体工效学原理、人体结构特点以及预实验确定压力待测点。实验以花高花宽、原料、款式以及地组织相同而贾卡组织不同的3件单色经编无缝上衣作为实验试样,挑选25名体型符合160/84A号型区域的青年女性试穿,运用压力传感器测试法对上体的不同部位进行客观压力测试,并同时进行主观舒适性评价。通过模糊综合评判决策和模糊意见集中决策的方法对不同状态下各部位的客观压力分布和主观压力舒适度进行研究,得到各部位的舒适压力范围,并从服装压力敏感度和承受压力的能力这两个角度来分析各部位的舒适压分布。最后通过对贾卡织物的拉伸弹性实验以及服装压力测量,探讨贾卡组织的厚薄效应对服装压的影响,提出贾卡分区优化设计的方法来改善并优化经编无缝服装的压力舒适性。
本课题研究认为穿着经编无缝上衣时,肩部和胸部的舒适压敏感度较低而承压能力较强,腰部和背部的舒适压敏感度较高而承受压力的能力较弱,侧缝的承压能力最弱;织物贾卡组织的厚薄效应与服装压大小呈正相关关系,即织物的贾卡组织效应越厚,对人体产生的服装压将越大;贾卡组织效应越薄,对人体产生的服装压将越小;腰部和背部可优先考虑稀薄效应的贾卡组织或网孔组织,肩部和胸部这两个部位组织结构的选用范围比较宽泛,组织设计不再是这两个部位设计的重点,侧缝部可优先选用薄组织或网孔组织以改善对人体的压迫感。
With the improvement of living standards, clothing comfort requirements for people are increasingly becoming higher. In addition to feeling comfort, heat and moisture comfort, the pressure comfort has become one of the key indicators to measure of wearing comfort. Warp knitted seamless garment has developed rapidly in recent years, and the research is mainly about weaving, pattern design and dimensions. There have not been research reports on pressure comfort. By studying pressure comfort and comfortable pressure distribution of warp seamless garment under different conditions, it researched the jacquard partition design to optimize comfort of warp knitted seamless garment.
The subject summarizes the domestic and international relevant research literatures on clothing pressure comfort and warp knitted seamless garment. It overviewed of the concept of clothing pressure comfort and influence factor of clothing pressure. In this subject pressure comfort of warp knitted seamless garment and the jacquard optimal design were studied. Non-contact three-dimensional body scanner was used to acquire human morphology in order to determine experimental subject. And it determined the pressure test points according to ergonomics principles, structural characteristics of the human body and pre-experiment. This thesis used 3 pieces of women’s warp knitted seamless garment as the experimental samples. They had the same pattern height, pattern width, material, style, and ground weave, but different in jacquard fabric. In this thesis 25 young women in size 160/84A were selected to try those samples. Pressure in different part of upper body was measured with objective testing method and at the same time the subjective pressure comfort rating was conducted. Fuzzy comprehensive evaluation and fuzzy centralized decision-making were used to studied objective pressure distribution and subjective pressure comfort of warp seamless garment under different conditions. It got the comfortable range in parts of the upper body and conducted pressure comfort analysis in terms of pressure sensitive and the ability to pressure. Finally, by pressure measurement and given elongation tensile test of jacquard fabric, the relationship between jacquard organizational structure and clothing pressure was discussed. This paper presented a method of jacquard partition design to improve pressure comfort of warp knitted seamless garment.
The results of this study show that when warp knitted seamless garment is worn, the pressure sensitive of shoulder and chest is low and the ability to pressure is strong. The pressure sensitive of waist and back is high and the ability to pressure is weak. And the ability to pressure of side seam is the weakest. Jacquard organizational structure and clothing pressure were positively correlated. When jacquard organizational effect was thicker, the pressure on the human body would be greater and when jacquard organizational effect was thinner, the pressure would be smaller. Waist and back of body can be given thin jacquard or mesh organization. Jacquard organization of shoulder and chest can be broad and wide, and structure design is no longer the focus of design in this both parts. Side seam can be preferred to given thin organization or mesh organization in order to improve the pressure comfort of human body.
引文
1.Meilgaard M, Civille G V, Carr B T. Sensory Evaluation Techniques (3rd ed.). USA, Florida: CRC Press, 1999.
2.Koehl I, Zeng X Y. Modeling relationship between objective and subjective data sets of fabric evaluation. Proceedings of WAC 2000—Fourth World Automation Congress. Maui, Hawaii, USA, June 11-16, 2000.
3.成秀光.服装环境学[M].金玉顺,高绪珊译.北京:中国纺织出版社, 1999.
4.宋晓霞,冯勋伟.服装压力与人体舒适性之关系[J].纺织学报, 2006, 27(3): 103-105.
5.VERILLO R T. Cutaneous Sensations[C]// Bscharf(Ed).Experimental Sensory Psychology. Glenview: Scott Foresman,1975:l-10.
6.由芳,张欣.紧身服的宽裕量及弹性模量与服装压感的关系[J].西北纺织工学院学报,2000,14(2): 133-137.
7.占辉,徐军.服装压力舒适性研究及应用[J].北京纺织,2004,25(5):58-59.
8.弓削治.服装卫生学[M].宋增仁译.北京:中国纺织出版社,1984.
9.香港理工大学纺织及制衣学系等.服装舒适性与产品开发[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2002.
10.Liu R, Kwok Y L, Li Y. Effects of Material Properties and Fabric Structure Characteristics of Graduated Compression Stockings(GCS) on the Skin Pressure Distributions[J] .Fibers and Polylners 2005, 6(4): 322-331.
11.丁雪梅,陈娜,吴雄英.针织调整型束裤拉伸弹性与服装压关系[J].东华大学学报(自然科学版), 2010, 36(1): 47-51.
12.姚远.弹性针织面料性能与服装压力的研究[D].上海:东华大学硕士学位论文, 2010.
13.孟祥令,张渭源.服装压力舒适性的研究进展[J].纺织学报, 2006, 27(7): 109-112.
14.Denton M J. Fit, stretch and comfort[J]. Textiles, 1972(3): 12-17.
15.Ito Nofiko, Inoue Mari, Nakanishi Masae, et al. The relation among the biaxial extension properties of girdle cloths and wearing comfort and clothing pressure of girdles[J]. Jpn Res Assn Text End Uses, 1995, 36: 102-108.
16.Morooka Harumi, Nakahashi Miyuki, Morooka Hideo. Compressive property of legs and clothing pressure of pantyhose from the view point of difference in age[J]. Jpn Res Assn Text End Uses, 1997, 38: 44-52.
17.Ayako lnamura, Masae Nakanishi, Masako Niwa. Relationship between wearing comfort and physical properties of girdles[J]. Jpn Res Assn Text End Uses, 1995, 36: 109-118.
18.姚远.弹性针织面料性能与服装压力的研究[D].上海:东华大学硕士学位论文, 2010.
19.吴志明,赵敏,陈星毅.颈部服装压对人体颈动脉窦生理的影响[J].纺织学报, 2011, 32(5): 98-102.
20.Makabe H. A study of clothing pressure developed by the girdle[J]. Jpn Res Assn Tex End Uses, 1991, 32(9): 424-438.
21.Makabe H, Momota H, Mitsuno T, et a1. Effect of covered area at the waist on clothing pressure[J]. Sen’i Gakkaishi, 1993, 49: 513-521.
22.Zhang X, Yeung K W, Li Y. Numerical simulation of 3D dynamic garment pressure[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2002, 72(3): 245-252.
23.Li Y, Zhang X, Yeung K W. A 3D biomechanical model for numerical simulation of dynamic mechanical interactions of bra and breast during wear[J] Sen’i Gakkaishi, 2003, 59(1): 46-55.
24.Yeung K W, Li Y, Zhang X. A 3D biomechanical human model for numerical simulation of garment-body dynamie mechanical interactions during wear[J]. J Text Inst, 2004, 95: 59-79.
25.唐敏.经编提花无缝织物的设计与仿真[D].无锡:江南大学, 2009.
26.祝士清,夏凤林.经编无缝成形产品的生产工艺研究[J].针织工业, 2009(4): 16-18.
27.覃蕊,陈东生,范雪荣,王强.服装压力分布及预测的研究与进展.纺织学报, 2010, 31(4): 139-144.
28.张辉,周永凯.服装功效学[M].北京:中国纺织出版社, 2009: 138.
29.侯彩虹,崔运花,曾宪奕,丁永生.纺织品感官评估的研究与进展[J].东华大学学报(自然科学版), 2003, 29(3): 110-114.
30.蒋高明.经编针织物生产设计.北京:中国纺织出版社, 2010: 333.
31.中泽愈.人体与服装[M].袁观洛,译.北京:中国纺织出版社, 2000: 22-24.
32.李东平,夏涛,李俊.服装压力测试方法的研究进展[J].纺织导报, 2007(12): 98-100.
33.周晴,徐军.运动内衣穿着压力舒适的主观评定[J].纺织学报, 2004, 25(6): 63-64.
34.吴济宏,于伟.针织面料压迫舒适性的评价回顾[J].武汉科技学院学报, 2006, 3: 1-4.
35.肖位枢.模糊数学基础及其应用[M].北京:航空工业出版社, 1992: 264-269.
36.方述诚,汪定伟.模糊数学与模糊优化[M].北京:科学出版社, 1997: 179-185.
37.Kirk WJ, Ibrahim SM. Fundamental Relationship of Fabric Extensibility of Anthropometric Requirements and Garment Performance[J]. Textile Research Journal, 1966(57): 37—47.
38 ASAKI Kazuya, MIYASHITA Kazuhiro, EDAMURA Masayoshi. Evaluation of foundation comfort based on the sensory evalution and dynamic clothing pressure measurement[J]. Jpn Res AssnText, 1997(38): 53-58.
39.谢季坚,刘承平.模糊数学方法及其应用[M].武汉:华中科技大学出版社, 2000: 169-172, 216.
40.丁雪梅,陈娜,吴雄英.针织调整型束裤拉伸弹性与服装压关系[J].东华大学学报(自然科学版), 2010, 36(1): 47-51.
41.姚远.弹性针织面料性能与服装压力的研究[D].上海:东华大学硕士学位论文, 2010.
42.高静,王秋美.针织物拉伸弹性的测试及其指标[J].纺织学报, 2000, 21(3): 166-168.
43.李巧莲.影响弹性针织面料服装压的因素研究[D].上海:东华大学硕士学位论文, 2007: 19-20.
2.Koehl I, Zeng X Y. Modeling relationship between objective and subjective data sets of fabric evaluation. Proceedings of WAC 2000—Fourth World Automation Congress. Maui, Hawaii, USA, June 11-16, 2000.
3.成秀光.服装环境学[M].金玉顺,高绪珊译.北京:中国纺织出版社, 1999.
4.宋晓霞,冯勋伟.服装压力与人体舒适性之关系[J].纺织学报, 2006, 27(3): 103-105.
5.VERILLO R T. Cutaneous Sensations[C]// Bscharf(Ed).Experimental Sensory Psychology. Glenview: Scott Foresman,1975:l-10.
6.由芳,张欣.紧身服的宽裕量及弹性模量与服装压感的关系[J].西北纺织工学院学报,2000,14(2): 133-137.
7.占辉,徐军.服装压力舒适性研究及应用[J].北京纺织,2004,25(5):58-59.
8.弓削治.服装卫生学[M].宋增仁译.北京:中国纺织出版社,1984.
9.香港理工大学纺织及制衣学系等.服装舒适性与产品开发[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2002.
10.Liu R, Kwok Y L, Li Y. Effects of Material Properties and Fabric Structure Characteristics of Graduated Compression Stockings(GCS) on the Skin Pressure Distributions[J] .Fibers and Polylners 2005, 6(4): 322-331.
11.丁雪梅,陈娜,吴雄英.针织调整型束裤拉伸弹性与服装压关系[J].东华大学学报(自然科学版), 2010, 36(1): 47-51.
12.姚远.弹性针织面料性能与服装压力的研究[D].上海:东华大学硕士学位论文, 2010.
13.孟祥令,张渭源.服装压力舒适性的研究进展[J].纺织学报, 2006, 27(7): 109-112.
14.Denton M J. Fit, stretch and comfort[J]. Textiles, 1972(3): 12-17.
15.Ito Nofiko, Inoue Mari, Nakanishi Masae, et al. The relation among the biaxial extension properties of girdle cloths and wearing comfort and clothing pressure of girdles[J]. Jpn Res Assn Text End Uses, 1995, 36: 102-108.
16.Morooka Harumi, Nakahashi Miyuki, Morooka Hideo. Compressive property of legs and clothing pressure of pantyhose from the view point of difference in age[J]. Jpn Res Assn Text End Uses, 1997, 38: 44-52.
17.Ayako lnamura, Masae Nakanishi, Masako Niwa. Relationship between wearing comfort and physical properties of girdles[J]. Jpn Res Assn Text End Uses, 1995, 36: 109-118.
18.姚远.弹性针织面料性能与服装压力的研究[D].上海:东华大学硕士学位论文, 2010.
19.吴志明,赵敏,陈星毅.颈部服装压对人体颈动脉窦生理的影响[J].纺织学报, 2011, 32(5): 98-102.
20.Makabe H. A study of clothing pressure developed by the girdle[J]. Jpn Res Assn Tex End Uses, 1991, 32(9): 424-438.
21.Makabe H, Momota H, Mitsuno T, et a1. Effect of covered area at the waist on clothing pressure[J]. Sen’i Gakkaishi, 1993, 49: 513-521.
22.Zhang X, Yeung K W, Li Y. Numerical simulation of 3D dynamic garment pressure[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2002, 72(3): 245-252.
23.Li Y, Zhang X, Yeung K W. A 3D biomechanical model for numerical simulation of dynamic mechanical interactions of bra and breast during wear[J] Sen’i Gakkaishi, 2003, 59(1): 46-55.
24.Yeung K W, Li Y, Zhang X. A 3D biomechanical human model for numerical simulation of garment-body dynamie mechanical interactions during wear[J]. J Text Inst, 2004, 95: 59-79.
25.唐敏.经编提花无缝织物的设计与仿真[D].无锡:江南大学, 2009.
26.祝士清,夏凤林.经编无缝成形产品的生产工艺研究[J].针织工业, 2009(4): 16-18.
27.覃蕊,陈东生,范雪荣,王强.服装压力分布及预测的研究与进展.纺织学报, 2010, 31(4): 139-144.
28.张辉,周永凯.服装功效学[M].北京:中国纺织出版社, 2009: 138.
29.侯彩虹,崔运花,曾宪奕,丁永生.纺织品感官评估的研究与进展[J].东华大学学报(自然科学版), 2003, 29(3): 110-114.
30.蒋高明.经编针织物生产设计.北京:中国纺织出版社, 2010: 333.
31.中泽愈.人体与服装[M].袁观洛,译.北京:中国纺织出版社, 2000: 22-24.
32.李东平,夏涛,李俊.服装压力测试方法的研究进展[J].纺织导报, 2007(12): 98-100.
33.周晴,徐军.运动内衣穿着压力舒适的主观评定[J].纺织学报, 2004, 25(6): 63-64.
34.吴济宏,于伟.针织面料压迫舒适性的评价回顾[J].武汉科技学院学报, 2006, 3: 1-4.
35.肖位枢.模糊数学基础及其应用[M].北京:航空工业出版社, 1992: 264-269.
36.方述诚,汪定伟.模糊数学与模糊优化[M].北京:科学出版社, 1997: 179-185.
37.Kirk WJ, Ibrahim SM. Fundamental Relationship of Fabric Extensibility of Anthropometric Requirements and Garment Performance[J]. Textile Research Journal, 1966(57): 37—47.
38 ASAKI Kazuya, MIYASHITA Kazuhiro, EDAMURA Masayoshi. Evaluation of foundation comfort based on the sensory evalution and dynamic clothing pressure measurement[J]. Jpn Res AssnText, 1997(38): 53-58.
39.谢季坚,刘承平.模糊数学方法及其应用[M].武汉:华中科技大学出版社, 2000: 169-172, 216.
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