基于运动舒适性的合体裤装松量与面料延伸性的配伍研究
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摘要
本文主要研究运动状态时的合体裤装松量与面料延伸性的配伍关系。论文采集了21种裤装面料并测定其基本参数和延伸性能,通过聚类分析的方法选取了基本参数相近、延伸性能不同的4种的裤装面料,并依据修正的3种合体裤版型制作了12条合体裤,通过穿着实验的方法对合体裤的舒适性进行了主观评价,并采用仪器对压力值进行了测试。本文通过Kendall's W协同系数检验得出5位受试者的主观评定值具有高度一致性,并运用相关分析得出了主观评价值与客观测试值之间的关系,即腹部、大腿前、膝部、大腿后、臀部的压力主观评价值与客观测试值之间均存在显著相关关系,小腿压力主观评价值与客观测试值之间存在相关关系；同时运用回归分析建立了主观评价值与客观测试值之间的线性关系式。在此基础上采用模糊聚类分析的方法评价了12条合体裤的压力舒适性,其中最舒适的两条是2C和4C。
本文从面料延伸性和合体裤放松量两个角度对合体裤运动时的舒适性进行了评价和分析。通过研究面料延伸性对合体裤压力舒适性的影响,得知人体采取站立和行走时的压力舒适性最好；人体采取坐姿、下蹲和抬腿时,腹部、臀部、大腿前的压力舒适性评价值最差。因此在进行合体裤结构设计时,必须充分考虑坐姿、下蹲和抬腿时腹部、臀部和大腿前的皮肤变形率,以满足压力舒适性的需求。通过对面料延伸性与压力舒适性的具体分析可知,面料的经向断裂伸长率大于23.7%,纬向断裂伸长率大于50.6%时,采用实验中B版型和C版型制作的合体裤能够基本满足下肢的压力舒适性需求。同时,相关性分析结果表明,各部位的客观压力测试值与经向断裂伸长率的相关关系不显著,与纬向断裂伸长率的相关关系显著。
此外,本文分析了松量与合体裤压力舒适性的关系。对于1号面料而言,没有能完全满足所有姿势下运动舒适性的部位；如果要完全满足1号面料制作的裤装的压力舒适性,则所需要的松量必须大于C版型的松量。对于2号和3号面料制作的裤装而言,满足压力舒适性的各部位松量为：腰围=1cm,臀围=6cm,上档长=3cm,膝围=3cm,小腿围=3cm,大腿围=3cm。对于4号面料而言,满足舒适性的各部位松量为：腰围=1cm,臀围=2cm,上档长=1cm,膝围=1cm,小腿围=1cm,大腿围=1cm。通过多元回归分析发现,影响合体裤下肢舒适性最主要的原因为大腿围、纬向断裂伸长率和经向断裂伸长率。
The interactions between ease variation of fitted pants and fabric extensibility based on movement comfortability was studied this paper. Twenty-one fabrics used for making pants were selected and classified into four catagories according to fabric basic parameters and extensibility, and one fabric was picked up from each of the four catagories. Then each fabric was made into three pants according to three different kinds of ease. The pressure comfort of the twelve fitted pants was subjectively evaluated and objectively tested by using AMI clothing pressure tester during wear trials. The results of cooperation coefficient Kendall's W test showed that five subject's results were effective and under the same evaluation criterion. Correlation analysis was carried out to analyze the relationship between the subjective values and the objective test values obtained in the wear trials. It was found that there were significant correlationship between the subjective values and the objective test values at body parts such as abdomen, thigh, knee, thigh and buttocks; there was correlationship between the subjective values and the objective test values at shank. Meanwhile, regression equation was obtained by using regression analysis to the subjective values and objective values.
The pressure comfort from the aspect of fabric extensibility and ease variation were studied in this paper. According to the influence of fabric extendibity to fitted pants'pressure comfort, the pressure comfort was the best when the human body to take the posture of standing and walking; the pressure comfort of bdomen, buttocks, thigh were the worst when the human body take the posture of sitting, squatting, and lift the leg. Therefore, when carrying out structural design of fitted pants, full consideration of skin deformation rate of the abdomen, buttocks and thigh when the body take the posture of sitting, squatting, and lift the leg to meet the needs of pressure comfort must be considered. From the analysis results of fabric extensibility and pressure comfort, the use of experimental version of type B and type C version of the fitted pants can basically meet the needs of the lower extremity pressure comfort when the fabric elongation of warp direction more than 23.7%, elongation of weft direction more than 50.6%. Meanwhile, correlation analysis showed that the correlation between the pressure tests in different parts of the objective value and the wrap elongation was not significant, and the correlation between the objective values and the weft elongation was significantly.
Besides, the paper analyzed the relationship between the ease variation of fitted pants and pressure comfort. For The fabric NO.1, there was no ease variation in this essay to fully satisfied the moving comfort of the body; to fully meet the pressure comfort of pants made of fabric No.1, then the required amount must be greater than C edition. For the fabric NO.2 and NO.3, the ease variation to meet the pressure comfort were as followings:Waist=1cm, Hip=6cm, the crotch depth=3cm, Knee=3cm, calf circumference=3cm, thigh circumference=3cm. For the fabric NO.4, he ease variation to meet the pressure comfort were as followings:Waist=1cm, Hip=2cm, the crotch depth=1cm, Knee=1cm, calf circumference=1cm, thigh circumference=1cm. Calf circumference, wrap elongation and weft elongation were the three factors which influence th pressure comfort of fitted pants.
本文从面料延伸性和合体裤放松量两个角度对合体裤运动时的舒适性进行了评价和分析。通过研究面料延伸性对合体裤压力舒适性的影响,得知人体采取站立和行走时的压力舒适性最好；人体采取坐姿、下蹲和抬腿时,腹部、臀部、大腿前的压力舒适性评价值最差。因此在进行合体裤结构设计时,必须充分考虑坐姿、下蹲和抬腿时腹部、臀部和大腿前的皮肤变形率,以满足压力舒适性的需求。通过对面料延伸性与压力舒适性的具体分析可知,面料的经向断裂伸长率大于23.7%,纬向断裂伸长率大于50.6%时,采用实验中B版型和C版型制作的合体裤能够基本满足下肢的压力舒适性需求。同时,相关性分析结果表明,各部位的客观压力测试值与经向断裂伸长率的相关关系不显著,与纬向断裂伸长率的相关关系显著。
此外,本文分析了松量与合体裤压力舒适性的关系。对于1号面料而言,没有能完全满足所有姿势下运动舒适性的部位；如果要完全满足1号面料制作的裤装的压力舒适性,则所需要的松量必须大于C版型的松量。对于2号和3号面料制作的裤装而言,满足压力舒适性的各部位松量为：腰围=1cm,臀围=6cm,上档长=3cm,膝围=3cm,小腿围=3cm,大腿围=3cm。对于4号面料而言,满足舒适性的各部位松量为：腰围=1cm,臀围=2cm,上档长=1cm,膝围=1cm,小腿围=1cm,大腿围=1cm。通过多元回归分析发现,影响合体裤下肢舒适性最主要的原因为大腿围、纬向断裂伸长率和经向断裂伸长率。
The interactions between ease variation of fitted pants and fabric extensibility based on movement comfortability was studied this paper. Twenty-one fabrics used for making pants were selected and classified into four catagories according to fabric basic parameters and extensibility, and one fabric was picked up from each of the four catagories. Then each fabric was made into three pants according to three different kinds of ease. The pressure comfort of the twelve fitted pants was subjectively evaluated and objectively tested by using AMI clothing pressure tester during wear trials. The results of cooperation coefficient Kendall's W test showed that five subject's results were effective and under the same evaluation criterion. Correlation analysis was carried out to analyze the relationship between the subjective values and the objective test values obtained in the wear trials. It was found that there were significant correlationship between the subjective values and the objective test values at body parts such as abdomen, thigh, knee, thigh and buttocks; there was correlationship between the subjective values and the objective test values at shank. Meanwhile, regression equation was obtained by using regression analysis to the subjective values and objective values.
The pressure comfort from the aspect of fabric extensibility and ease variation were studied in this paper. According to the influence of fabric extendibity to fitted pants'pressure comfort, the pressure comfort was the best when the human body to take the posture of standing and walking; the pressure comfort of bdomen, buttocks, thigh were the worst when the human body take the posture of sitting, squatting, and lift the leg. Therefore, when carrying out structural design of fitted pants, full consideration of skin deformation rate of the abdomen, buttocks and thigh when the body take the posture of sitting, squatting, and lift the leg to meet the needs of pressure comfort must be considered. From the analysis results of fabric extensibility and pressure comfort, the use of experimental version of type B and type C version of the fitted pants can basically meet the needs of the lower extremity pressure comfort when the fabric elongation of warp direction more than 23.7%, elongation of weft direction more than 50.6%. Meanwhile, correlation analysis showed that the correlation between the pressure tests in different parts of the objective value and the wrap elongation was not significant, and the correlation between the objective values and the weft elongation was significantly.
Besides, the paper analyzed the relationship between the ease variation of fitted pants and pressure comfort. For The fabric NO.1, there was no ease variation in this essay to fully satisfied the moving comfort of the body; to fully meet the pressure comfort of pants made of fabric No.1, then the required amount must be greater than C edition. For the fabric NO.2 and NO.3, the ease variation to meet the pressure comfort were as followings:Waist=1cm, Hip=6cm, the crotch depth=3cm, Knee=3cm, calf circumference=3cm, thigh circumference=3cm. For the fabric NO.4, he ease variation to meet the pressure comfort were as followings:Waist=1cm, Hip=2cm, the crotch depth=1cm, Knee=1cm, calf circumference=1cm, thigh circumference=1cm. Calf circumference, wrap elongation and weft elongation were the three factors which influence th pressure comfort of fitted pants.
引文
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