摘要
罗布麻纤维是一种纯天然的绿色环保产品,集棉的柔软、麻的挺括、丝的光泽于一身,具有透气性、吸湿性、抑菌性,穿着时不粘身、无汗臭,有“热时凉爽、冷时温暖”的特性,适合高血压患者平稳、长期降压的需求,因此罗布麻作为一种高档针织面料,受到国内外纺织界和医学界的关注和重视。但是由于罗布麻植物本身的特点和初加工工艺不完善,致使其精干麻质量较差,突出表现在罗布麻混纺纱线毛羽多、条干不匀、强力低、耐磨性差,这不仅对纺织后续加工带来困难,而且还造成其制品精细程度不高,使用寿命短,这无疑阻碍了岁布麻纤维及其制品的推广利用。
本课题所研究的锦纶/罗布麻复合纱是利用包覆纺纱的原理加工而成,包覆纺纱又称包缠纺纱,是新型纺纱方法中的一种,将锦纶长丝以螺旋的形式包缠在罗布麻芯纱的外面。由于锦纶长丝是一种高强耐磨纤维,因而通过这种加工方法纺制的纱线使其在具有罗布麻抗菌抑菌医疗特性的同时,又充分体现出锦纶纤维高强耐磨的优点,增强了罗布麻纱的强力和耐磨性,提高了罗布麻纱的可纺性。
本论文在内容上,主要包括六部分:第一部分对包覆纺纱的发展趋势和国内外研究现状;包覆纺纱机的发展和主要机型及选题的目的意义和研究内容做了简要概述;第二部分对本课题采用的HKV141D—Ⅰ型包覆丝机的工作原理及技术规格作了简要介绍,简述了罗布麻的理化性能及锦纶长丝的主要性能;第三部分在实验探索的基础上设计了单因素试验,得出各单因素与纱线力学及耐磨性能的关系;第四部分采用正交试验设计方法,选取外包丝纤度、包覆度、芯纱预加张力、导丝钩距离四个因素作为工艺参数进行优化,并对包覆纱强度和耐磨性影响的显著性进行方差分析,得到单、双包覆工艺的最优工艺参数;第五部分对包覆纺纱的成纱机理进行研究,运用模糊数学的方法将单、双包覆纱与原罗布麻混纺纱进行对比分析;第六部分利用多目标灰色决策的方法,对罗布麻包覆纱针织物的性能进行统计分析,得到包覆纱织物的最优工艺参数,验证由正交分析法得出的包覆纱工艺参数结论。
试验结果表明,在主体保证罗布麻纤维原有特性的前提下,通过该工艺加工有效地提高了罗布麻纱线的耐磨性和强力,改善了可织造加工性能,从而探索了一新的复合加工思路,对低品质纱线的利用开辟了一新的途径。
硕士研究生徐颖(纺织工程)
指导教师韩光亭教授
Apocynum venetum is a pure natural, green and environmental protection product, collects the characteristic as soft of cotton, stiff and neat of hemp and luster of silk, has permeability, hygroscopicity and bacterial inhibition. While put on it, neither stick the body nor has smelly sweat, has the characteristic of "cool when hot, warm when cold". It is suitable for falling the pressure placidly and chronically of hypertension patient. As a upscale knitting fahric, apocynnm venetum receives the attention and recognition of domestic and foreign textile and medical area. But because of the apocynum venetum characteristic and incomplete preliminary working craft, the quality of degummed apocynum venetum is poor such as more fibrous, unevenness, lower strength and poorer wearing-resisting. It not only brings difficulty to the following processing of spinning, but also leads to lower fine degree of the product and reduces the service life. It will prevent the promoted utilization of apocynum venetum fiber and product without doubt.
In this article, the composite yarn which makes up of apocynum venetum and nylon is processed by the principle of wrapped-spun, its another name is covered-spun, which is one of the new type spinning. The nylon filament covers on the outside of apocynum venetum blended yarn as the form of spiral. Because the nylon filament is a high-strength & wear-resisting fiber, which made the yarn both have the antibacterial medical characteristic of apocynum venetum and high-strength & wear-resisting merit of nylon fiber, so it enhances the strength and wear-resisting, improve the spinnability of apocynum venetum yarn.
This paper mainly includes six parts. In the first part, the current and research actuality of wrap spinning, the development and main type of wrap spinning machine, the aim of this thesis and the research content are introduced. In the second part, the working principle and technical specification of HKV141D-I wrapped-spun machine are introduced briefly, and the spinning value of apocynum venetum and main property of nylon filament are also introduced. In the third part, on the base of experiment, single-factor analysis is designed, the relationship between the factors and mechanics & wear-resisting can be known. In the fourth, using a series of orthogonality, size of out filament, wrapped-twist, pre-tension of heart yam, space of traverse guide are selected as processing parameters, variance analysis with the strength and wear-resisting of wrapped-spun, optimal processing parameters are given. In the fifth part, principium of spinning is studied, using fuzzy mathematics, contrast single & double wrapped-spun yam with apocynum venetum blended yam. In last part, using multi-objective decision-making, the property of wrapped-spun fabric is analysed, optimal processing parameters can be known, and the conclusion of orthogonality analysis is validated.
The test result indicated, on the premise of fiber properties, wear-resisting and strength are improved, the spinning and weaving ability are improved. A prosperous way was opened to develop composite spinning for properly utilizing the lower quality yams.
Postgraduate student: Xu Ying (Textile Engineering)
Directed by Prof. Han—Han Guangting
引文
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