现代首饰设计中的款式与材料变化之关系研究
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摘要
在历史的变更,人类文明发展的漫漫长卷中,首饰艺术的内涵及外延伴随着社会的进步一直在不断演变。由于生产力的发展和人们审美意识的不断提升,现代首饰与传统首饰已决然不同。现代首饰在现代美学的基础上,继承传统首饰工艺,结合现代文化和艺术思潮的影响下发展起来的,有别于远古时代纯粹的装饰物,也不再仅仅是达官贵人用以炫耀身份地位的附属物,它的社会功能及审美价值发生了显著的变化。
科技飞速发展,物质生活日益丰富的今天,首饰的社会价值上升到更高层次,即宣扬个性,塑造尽可能完美的个人形象。人们通过服装的选择,首饰的搭配等来体现自我审美水平。尤其在竞争如此激烈的现代社会,通过自我形象包装的独特性显示与众不同的审美情趣以得到别人的羡慕和欣赏,不失为增强自信,缓解压力的一种良好途径。因此,在现代首饰设计中,如何通过款式的造型及材料的运用,满足人们对首饰的个性化、多样化、定制化需求?值得去思考和研究。
本文从款式与材料的变化关系角度出发,通过对传统首饰中款式和材料演变的阐述,及对现代首饰设计中的款式与材料变化关系的探寻,比较中西方首饰文化,分析时代背景和现代首饰设计的现状,在设计创新的前提下,论证款式与材料变化关系的重要性。综合对国际知名首饰品牌的实例分析,研究多种风格造型及丰富材料在现代首饰设计中的应用;引用大量国内外的新锐设计案例,分析和提炼现代首饰设计的创新途径和创意方法。通过对民族文化的借鉴,对传统精神的继承,对外来文化的吸收,从而为寻找中国现代首饰的未来发展之路做一些实践性的探讨。
In the historical change, the human culture development inundates in the long volume, the jewelry art's connotation and the extension follow society's progress to evolve unceasingly. Because the productive forces development and the people realize esthetically unceasing promotion, modern jewelry and traditional jewelry already decidedly different. The modern jewelry in the modern esthetics's foundation, the hand down a tradition jewelry craft, the union modern culture and under the artistic ideological trend's influence develops, was different with the high antiquity pure widget, also no longer merely was the highly placed people uses to show off the status status the accessory, its social function and the esthetic value has had the remarkable change.
The technical swift development, material life rich today, jewelry's social value rises day by day to the top level, namely publicizes the individuality, the mold as far as possible perfect individual image. The people through clothing's choice, jewelry's matching and so on manifest the self-esthetic level. Especially in the competition so intense modern society, through the self-vivid packing's distinctive quality demonstrated that the out of the ordinary esthetic appeal by obtains others' envying and appreciates, is the enhancement is self-confident, alleviation pressure one good way. Therefore, in the modern jewelry design, how through the design modelling and the material utilization, satisfies the people to jewelry's personalization, the diversification, to have custom-made the demand? Is worth pondering and the research.
This article from the design and material change relations angle embarking, through the elaboration which the design and the material evolves to the traditional jewelry, and to modern jewelry design design and material change relations inquiring about, in comparison Western jewelry culture, analysis time background and modern jewelry design present situation, under design innovation premise, proof design and material change relations importance. Synthesis to world famous jewelry brand example analysis, research many kinds of style modelling and rich material in modern jewelry design application; Quotes the massive domestic and foreign new sharp design case, the analysis and the refinement modern jewelry design innovation way and the creativity method. Through to national culture model, to traditional spirit inheritance, to external cultural absorption, thus to seek for the Chinese modern jewelry's road of future development to make some practical discussion.
科技飞速发展,物质生活日益丰富的今天,首饰的社会价值上升到更高层次,即宣扬个性,塑造尽可能完美的个人形象。人们通过服装的选择,首饰的搭配等来体现自我审美水平。尤其在竞争如此激烈的现代社会,通过自我形象包装的独特性显示与众不同的审美情趣以得到别人的羡慕和欣赏,不失为增强自信,缓解压力的一种良好途径。因此,在现代首饰设计中,如何通过款式的造型及材料的运用,满足人们对首饰的个性化、多样化、定制化需求?值得去思考和研究。
本文从款式与材料的变化关系角度出发,通过对传统首饰中款式和材料演变的阐述,及对现代首饰设计中的款式与材料变化关系的探寻,比较中西方首饰文化,分析时代背景和现代首饰设计的现状,在设计创新的前提下,论证款式与材料变化关系的重要性。综合对国际知名首饰品牌的实例分析,研究多种风格造型及丰富材料在现代首饰设计中的应用;引用大量国内外的新锐设计案例,分析和提炼现代首饰设计的创新途径和创意方法。通过对民族文化的借鉴,对传统精神的继承,对外来文化的吸收,从而为寻找中国现代首饰的未来发展之路做一些实践性的探讨。
In the historical change, the human culture development inundates in the long volume, the jewelry art's connotation and the extension follow society's progress to evolve unceasingly. Because the productive forces development and the people realize esthetically unceasing promotion, modern jewelry and traditional jewelry already decidedly different. The modern jewelry in the modern esthetics's foundation, the hand down a tradition jewelry craft, the union modern culture and under the artistic ideological trend's influence develops, was different with the high antiquity pure widget, also no longer merely was the highly placed people uses to show off the status status the accessory, its social function and the esthetic value has had the remarkable change.
The technical swift development, material life rich today, jewelry's social value rises day by day to the top level, namely publicizes the individuality, the mold as far as possible perfect individual image. The people through clothing's choice, jewelry's matching and so on manifest the self-esthetic level. Especially in the competition so intense modern society, through the self-vivid packing's distinctive quality demonstrated that the out of the ordinary esthetic appeal by obtains others' envying and appreciates, is the enhancement is self-confident, alleviation pressure one good way. Therefore, in the modern jewelry design, how through the design modelling and the material utilization, satisfies the people to jewelry's personalization, the diversification, to have custom-made the demand? Is worth pondering and the research.
This article from the design and material change relations angle embarking, through the elaboration which the design and the material evolves to the traditional jewelry, and to modern jewelry design design and material change relations inquiring about, in comparison Western jewelry culture, analysis time background and modern jewelry design present situation, under design innovation premise, proof design and material change relations importance. Synthesis to world famous jewelry brand example analysis, research many kinds of style modelling and rich material in modern jewelry design application; Quotes the massive domestic and foreign new sharp design case, the analysis and the refinement modern jewelry design innovation way and the creativity method. Through to national culture model, to traditional spirit inheritance, to external cultural absorption, thus to seek for the Chinese modern jewelry's road of future development to make some practical discussion.
引文
[1]滕菲著.《首饰设计》.福建:福建美术出版社,2006.01.
[2]孙嘉英主编.《首饰设计艺术》.辽宁:辽宁美术出版社,2008.01.
[3]王金华主编.《民间银饰》.中国轻工业出版社,2006.09.
[4]《金相玉质---首饰》.上海:上海科技教育出版社,2007.07.
[5]邹宁馨伏永和高伟著.《现代首饰工艺与设计》.中国纺织出版社,2005.07
[6]沈从文著.《中国服饰史》.陕西师范大学出版社,2004.05
[7]于大川著.《珠宝首饰设计与加工》.化学工业出版社, 2005.02
[8]刘元风著.《现代服装艺术设计》.清华大学出版社,2005.06
[9]朱方明著.《品牌促销》.中国经济出版社,1998.
[10]黄国松著.《色彩设计学》.中国纺织出版社,2001.06
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[12]胡志毅著.《世界艺术史》.东方出版社,2003.2.1.
[13]罗振春著.《第二表情---首饰设计课程》.江苏美术出版社,2007.09.01
[14]徐植著.《贵金属材料与首饰制作》.上海人民美术出版社,2009.04.01
[15]戏子著.《衣锦媚行-在古代首饰中且歌且行》.辽宁教育出版设2009.06.01
[16]黄能馥苏婷婷著.《珠翠光华——中国首饰图史》.中华书局,2010.07.01
[17]金克斯·麦克格兰斯著.《英国珠宝首饰制作基础教程》.上海人民美术出版社,2009.02.01
[18]邹聙余艳主编.《世界经典首饰设计》.湖南大学出版社,2010.04.01
[19]任进王晓沫编著.《美丽无价——首饰服饰搭配艺术》.社会科学文献出版社,2010.07.01
[20]严忠林著.《珠宝首饰设计》.上海人民美术出版社,2009.01.01
[21]陈征郭守国著.《珠宝首饰与鉴赏》.学林出版社,2008.09.01
[22]杨著,张正国,倪世一译.《首饰材料应用宝典》.上海人民美术出版社,2010.01.01
[23]楚天昀主编.《中国首饰收藏指南》.内蒙古教育出版社,2006.10.01
[24]王昶,申柯娅编著.《珠宝首饰营销学》.中国地质大学出版社,2008.05.01
[25](英)斯维妮等著.崔慧译.《时尚首饰DIY》.上海人民美术出版社,2009.06.01
[26]任进王芳著.《创意无限:珠宝首饰设计进阶》.社会科学文献出版社,2009.11
[27]李颖著.《萌动设计--感知首饰》.江苏美术出版社,2007.09.01
[28]郭新著.《珠宝首饰设计》.上海人民美术出版社,2009.05.01
[29]杨如增等编.《首饰贵金属材料及工艺学》.同济大学出版社,2002.05.01
[30]滕菲著.《灵动的符号——首饰设计实验教程》.人民美术出版社,2002
[31]伊丽莎白.欧佛著林育如译.《珠宝与首饰设计:从创意到成品》.新一代图书有限公司,2008.03.01
[32]张晓燕主编.《首饰艺术设计》.中国纺织出版社,2010.07.01
[1]任进.首饰设计基础.中国地质大学出版社, 2003.4, (32).
[2]郭新.珠宝首饰设计.上海人民美术出版社, 2009.5, (9)
[3]严中林.珠宝首饰设计.上海人民美术出版社, 2009.1, (74)
[4]郭新.珠宝首饰设计.上海人民美术出版社, 2009.5, (57)
[5]伊丽莎白.奥尔弗.中国纺织出版社,2004.3,(102)
[6]郭春旭.环球奢侈品.珠宝.吉林人民出版社,2009.1,(35)
[7]严中林.珠宝首饰设计.上海人民美术出版社, 2009.1,(76)
[8]滕菲.首饰设计.福建美术出版社,2006.1,(40)
[1] Non-Western Societies and Higher Education. Burton R. Clark, Guy Neave. The Encyclopedia of Higher Education. Volumn 2.Analytival Perspectives. Pergaman Press Ltd, 1992. 969～975
[2] Governance: Models. Burton R. Clark, Guy Neave. The Encyclopedia of Higher Education. Volumn 2.Analytival Perspectives. Pergaman Press Ltd, 1992.1376～1384 (英文参考文献示例)
[3] [美]伯顿·克拉克.王承绪等译.高等教育系统——学术组织的跨国研究[M].杭州:杭州大学出版社,1994
[4]顾明远主编.世界高等教育大系——高等教育[M].长春:吉林教育出版社,2000
[5]刘献君.关于实施高校教师聘任制的思考[J].高等教育研究,2003,(5):65～67 (中文参考文献示例)注:M代表著作,J代表期刊,中间所打点的是半角的点。段落行距为1.5倍行距注释采用尾注的方式,其格式与参考文献相同,后面加上页码
[2]孙嘉英主编.《首饰设计艺术》.辽宁:辽宁美术出版社,2008.01.
[3]王金华主编.《民间银饰》.中国轻工业出版社,2006.09.
[4]《金相玉质---首饰》.上海:上海科技教育出版社,2007.07.
[5]邹宁馨伏永和高伟著.《现代首饰工艺与设计》.中国纺织出版社,2005.07
[6]沈从文著.《中国服饰史》.陕西师范大学出版社,2004.05
[7]于大川著.《珠宝首饰设计与加工》.化学工业出版社, 2005.02
[8]刘元风著.《现代服装艺术设计》.清华大学出版社,2005.06
[9]朱方明著.《品牌促销》.中国经济出版社,1998.
[10]黄国松著.《色彩设计学》.中国纺织出版社,2001.06
[11]郑静著.《现代首饰艺术》.江苏美术出版社,2002.
[12]胡志毅著.《世界艺术史》.东方出版社,2003.2.1.
[13]罗振春著.《第二表情---首饰设计课程》.江苏美术出版社,2007.09.01
[14]徐植著.《贵金属材料与首饰制作》.上海人民美术出版社,2009.04.01
[15]戏子著.《衣锦媚行-在古代首饰中且歌且行》.辽宁教育出版设2009.06.01
[16]黄能馥苏婷婷著.《珠翠光华——中国首饰图史》.中华书局,2010.07.01
[17]金克斯·麦克格兰斯著.《英国珠宝首饰制作基础教程》.上海人民美术出版社,2009.02.01
[18]邹聙余艳主编.《世界经典首饰设计》.湖南大学出版社,2010.04.01
[19]任进王晓沫编著.《美丽无价——首饰服饰搭配艺术》.社会科学文献出版社,2010.07.01
[20]严忠林著.《珠宝首饰设计》.上海人民美术出版社,2009.01.01
[21]陈征郭守国著.《珠宝首饰与鉴赏》.学林出版社,2008.09.01
[22]杨著,张正国,倪世一译.《首饰材料应用宝典》.上海人民美术出版社,2010.01.01
[23]楚天昀主编.《中国首饰收藏指南》.内蒙古教育出版社,2006.10.01
[24]王昶,申柯娅编著.《珠宝首饰营销学》.中国地质大学出版社,2008.05.01
[25](英)斯维妮等著.崔慧译.《时尚首饰DIY》.上海人民美术出版社,2009.06.01
[26]任进王芳著.《创意无限:珠宝首饰设计进阶》.社会科学文献出版社,2009.11
[27]李颖著.《萌动设计--感知首饰》.江苏美术出版社,2007.09.01
[28]郭新著.《珠宝首饰设计》.上海人民美术出版社,2009.05.01
[29]杨如增等编.《首饰贵金属材料及工艺学》.同济大学出版社,2002.05.01
[30]滕菲著.《灵动的符号——首饰设计实验教程》.人民美术出版社,2002
[31]伊丽莎白.欧佛著林育如译.《珠宝与首饰设计:从创意到成品》.新一代图书有限公司,2008.03.01
[32]张晓燕主编.《首饰艺术设计》.中国纺织出版社,2010.07.01
[1]任进.首饰设计基础.中国地质大学出版社, 2003.4, (32).
[2]郭新.珠宝首饰设计.上海人民美术出版社, 2009.5, (9)
[3]严中林.珠宝首饰设计.上海人民美术出版社, 2009.1, (74)
[4]郭新.珠宝首饰设计.上海人民美术出版社, 2009.5, (57)
[5]伊丽莎白.奥尔弗.中国纺织出版社,2004.3,(102)
[6]郭春旭.环球奢侈品.珠宝.吉林人民出版社,2009.1,(35)
[7]严中林.珠宝首饰设计.上海人民美术出版社, 2009.1,(76)
[8]滕菲.首饰设计.福建美术出版社,2006.1,(40)
[1] Non-Western Societies and Higher Education. Burton R. Clark, Guy Neave. The Encyclopedia of Higher Education. Volumn 2.Analytival Perspectives. Pergaman Press Ltd, 1992. 969～975
[2] Governance: Models. Burton R. Clark, Guy Neave. The Encyclopedia of Higher Education. Volumn 2.Analytival Perspectives. Pergaman Press Ltd, 1992.1376～1384 (英文参考文献示例)
[3] [美]伯顿·克拉克.王承绪等译.高等教育系统——学术组织的跨国研究[M].杭州:杭州大学出版社,1994
[4]顾明远主编.世界高等教育大系——高等教育[M].长春:吉林教育出版社,2000
[5]刘献君.关于实施高校教师聘任制的思考[J].高等教育研究,2003,(5):65～67 (中文参考文献示例)注:M代表著作,J代表期刊,中间所打点的是半角的点。段落行距为1.5倍行距注释采用尾注的方式,其格式与参考文献相同,后面加上页码