半成型提花女裙高弹性裙腰的工艺设计和性能研究及其产品研发
|
摘要
近年来，随着人民生活水平的不断提高及便捷舒适、环保时尚等理念的大力推广，人们对服装简便化、功能化的要求也越来越高。因此开发具有穿着合体感好，缝制加工工序简单，原料浪费少，外观效果好的纺织服装产品，将有着非常良好的市场前景。
本课题机织半成型提花女裙织物的裙腰部位具有优良的弹力收缩性能，裙身部位无弹性，可使穿带者保持良好的轻盈合体感，避免了穿着时的束缚压迫感。同时，此类女裙织物在下机后裙腰裙身一次织造成型且风格各异，只需将两侧接缝部位直接缝合即成一件完整的女裙，避免了大量裁剪过程的原料浪费。
机织半成型提花女裙的裙腰因要求较高的弹性收缩与舒适合体感，因此裙腰部位需进行合理的经纬纱线原料配置与组织结构设计，经线选用伸展性较好的锦纶丝，纬线采用三组，甲纬为涤纶丝，乙纬为人造棉，丙纬为弹性优良的氨纶包覆纱，组织结构为双层接结或双层空心袋。同时，高弹性女裙裙腰各性能的优劣，如弹性回复性、压力舒适性、刚柔性及透气性等，与裙腰的纬纱排列比、组织结构与弹力氨纶包覆纱背衬浮长等因素有关。
为探究高弹性裙腰各因素水平对其性能的影响，也为半成型女裙产品的开发提供一定的理论依据，本文建立了高弹性女裙裙腰试样性能研究的正交试验方案，正交试验中设立了三个因素：因素A为纬纱排列比，水平有三个，分别包括2∶1∶1，4∶3∶1，6∶5∶1；因素B为组织结构，水平有两个，分别为双层接结组织与双层空心袋组织；因素C为纬线氨纶包覆纱的背衬浮长，水平有三个，分别为18、28、38。然后，根据各因素水平选用L9（34）正交分析表，分析试样各因素水平对裙腰织物的弹性回复性、压力舒适性、刚柔性及透气性的影响，并根据正交极差分析及最优化组合得出：试样弹性回复性能受因素A纬纱排列比的影响最大，因素B组织结构的影响次之，因素C氨纶包覆纱背衬浮长对试样弹性回复率的影响最小；试样压力舒适性能与因素A纬纱排列比、因素C氨纶包覆纱背衬浮长的关联非常大，而因素B组织结构对试样压力舒适性的影响几乎可以不考虑；试样透气性受因素A纬纱排列比的影响较大，因素C氨纶包覆纱背衬浮长的影响次之，因素B组织结构对裙腰试样透气性的影响相对较小；试样刚柔性，三个因素的极差值R非常接近，可以说因素A纬纱排列比、因素B组织结构、因素C氨纶包覆纱的背衬浮长对其刚柔性的影响并不大。
在综合分析了女裙裙腰试样弹性回复性、压力舒适性、透气性与刚柔性等性能的优化组合基础上，设计开发了两款不同工艺的机织半成型提花女裙产品：①机织半成型裙腰暗花效应提花女裙织物，裙腰甲、乙、丙三组纬纱排列比为4∶3∶1，裙身甲乙两组纬线排列比为1∶1，纬线氨纶包覆纱的背衬浮长为28，裙腰与裙身的组织结构均采用双层空心袋组织，裙腰花部采用三角形图案，配以巧妙的图案变化，使其具有独特的暗花效应，同时裙腰与裙身的过渡部位亦用三角形图案，裙腰上下呼应，增加了立体层次感。裙身部位则使用左右对称的单独图案，裙腰与裙身的衔接自然流畅，浑然一体。该女裙具有良好弹性收缩性能，且手感柔软，穿着舒适合体。②机织半成型裙身抛道提花女裙织物，裙腰甲、乙、丙三组纬纱排列比为4∶3∶1，裙身甲乙两组纬纱排列比为1∶1且部分纬纱抛道，纬线氨纶包覆纱的背衬浮长为28，裙腰采用双层接结组织，裙身采用双层空心袋组织，裙腰与裙身过渡部位采用小三角形几何图案，裙身部位采用类似于江南水乡的纹样，因部分纬纱的抛道，使得该女裙具有如流水一般的动态美感，风格轻盈独特、层次突出。
In recent years, with the improvement of people's living standard and the promoting ofconcepts, such as convenience, comfort and environmental protection, people have more andmore requirement on clothing’s function. So develop textile and clothing products which havegood comfortable sensation and simple sewing processing process and less raw material wasteand good exterior effect, would have a very good market prospect.
In this topic, the semi-molding jacquard skirt waist had an excellent elasticity shrinkageperformance, while skirt body parts without elastic that can make the wearer take good lightsomeand fit feeling, and avoid the feeling of enchained and oppressive. At the same time, this kind ofskirt could once shaped with different style after leave the machine. It only needed to sew up thetwo juncture sides to get a complete female skirt. It could avoid a lot of material wasting in theprocess of cutting.
The semi-molding jacquard skirt waist required for high elasticity shrink and comfortablefit feeling, so the skirt waist needed a reasonable configuration of warp and weft materials andorganization structure design. Warp chose nylon yarn which has good stretching, and weft usedthree groups in which weft A was polyester yarn and weft B was staple rayon and weft C wascovered spandex yarn having good elasticity. Weave structure was double take or double hollowbag. At the same time, each performance of high elastic female skirt waist such as elasticresilience, pressure comfort, flexibility and breathability and so on, was related to the factorssuch as skirt waist’s wefts arrangement, organization structure and stretch covered spandex yarnbacking floating length.
For studying each factor of the high elastic female skirt waist affected on the performance,and providing certain theoretical basis to the development of semi-molding jacquard skirt, thispaper established an orthogonal test plan on properties of the samples of high elastic female skirtwaist. The orthogonal experiment has established three factors. Actor A stands for weftsarrangement which has three levels including2:1:1,4:3:1and6:5:1. Factor B stands fororganization structure which has two levels including double take organization and doublehollow bag organization. Factor C stands for covered spandex yarn backing floating length,which has three levels including18,28and38. Then, according to orthogonal analysis form L9 (34), analyzing the factors to skirt waist level of elastic fabric resilience, pressure comfort,flexibility and the effect of breathability, and based on orthogonal analysis and optimum levelcombination that: sample’s elastic recovery performance influenced by factor A weftarrangement is the biggest, affected by factor B weave structure’s is the next, factor C coveredspandex yarn backing floating length’s influence is the minimum; Sample’s pressure comfort hasgreat association with factor A weft arrangement and factor C covered spandex yarn backingfloating length, and the influences of factor B weave structure could be almost no consideration;Sample’s breathability influenced by factor A weft arrangement is the biggest, factor C coveredspandex yarn backing floating length’s influence is the second, and factor B weave structure’sinfluence is relatively minor; Sample’s flexibility, the poor value R of the three factors are veryclose, can deemed the influence of three factors, weft arrangement, weave structure, coveredspandex yarn backing floating length, is not big.
In the comprehensive analysis of female skirt waist samples’ elastic resilience, pressurecomfort, breathability and flexibility, designed and developed two different style wovensemi-molding jacquard female skirt products:(1) woven semi-molding jacquard female skirtfabric with the dark flower effect of skirt waist: skirt waist a, b, and c three groups’ weftarrangement for4:3:1, skirt body a and b two groups’ arranged for1:1, the covered spandex yarnbacking floating length for28, skirt waist and skirt body’s weave to adopt tabby hollow bagweave, the transition parts of skirt waist and skirt body adopt triangular pattern, skirt body partsused similar on the foreign castle symmetry of single grain appearance, this female skirt hasgood elasticity shrinkage performance, and soft feel, comfortable fit.(2)woven semi-moldingjacquard female skirt fabric with skirt body thrown way: skirt waist a, b, and c three groups’ weftarrangement for4:3:1, skirt body a and b two groups’ weft arrangement ratio for1:1and part ofwefts casting way, the covered spandex yarn backing floating length for28, skirt waist pick theplain stitching weave, skirt body use the plain hollow bag weave, the transition part of skirt waistand skirt body adopt small triangular geometry pattern, skirt body adopt a pattern similarly theYangtze river delta, because of the wefts part casting way, make the female skirt is like watergeneral dynamic aesthetic feeling, lightsome and unique style and outstanding level.
本课题机织半成型提花女裙织物的裙腰部位具有优良的弹力收缩性能，裙身部位无弹性，可使穿带者保持良好的轻盈合体感，避免了穿着时的束缚压迫感。同时，此类女裙织物在下机后裙腰裙身一次织造成型且风格各异，只需将两侧接缝部位直接缝合即成一件完整的女裙，避免了大量裁剪过程的原料浪费。
机织半成型提花女裙的裙腰因要求较高的弹性收缩与舒适合体感，因此裙腰部位需进行合理的经纬纱线原料配置与组织结构设计，经线选用伸展性较好的锦纶丝，纬线采用三组，甲纬为涤纶丝，乙纬为人造棉，丙纬为弹性优良的氨纶包覆纱，组织结构为双层接结或双层空心袋。同时，高弹性女裙裙腰各性能的优劣，如弹性回复性、压力舒适性、刚柔性及透气性等，与裙腰的纬纱排列比、组织结构与弹力氨纶包覆纱背衬浮长等因素有关。
为探究高弹性裙腰各因素水平对其性能的影响，也为半成型女裙产品的开发提供一定的理论依据，本文建立了高弹性女裙裙腰试样性能研究的正交试验方案，正交试验中设立了三个因素：因素A为纬纱排列比，水平有三个，分别包括2∶1∶1，4∶3∶1，6∶5∶1；因素B为组织结构，水平有两个，分别为双层接结组织与双层空心袋组织；因素C为纬线氨纶包覆纱的背衬浮长，水平有三个，分别为18、28、38。然后，根据各因素水平选用L9（34）正交分析表，分析试样各因素水平对裙腰织物的弹性回复性、压力舒适性、刚柔性及透气性的影响，并根据正交极差分析及最优化组合得出：试样弹性回复性能受因素A纬纱排列比的影响最大，因素B组织结构的影响次之，因素C氨纶包覆纱背衬浮长对试样弹性回复率的影响最小；试样压力舒适性能与因素A纬纱排列比、因素C氨纶包覆纱背衬浮长的关联非常大，而因素B组织结构对试样压力舒适性的影响几乎可以不考虑；试样透气性受因素A纬纱排列比的影响较大，因素C氨纶包覆纱背衬浮长的影响次之，因素B组织结构对裙腰试样透气性的影响相对较小；试样刚柔性，三个因素的极差值R非常接近，可以说因素A纬纱排列比、因素B组织结构、因素C氨纶包覆纱的背衬浮长对其刚柔性的影响并不大。
在综合分析了女裙裙腰试样弹性回复性、压力舒适性、透气性与刚柔性等性能的优化组合基础上，设计开发了两款不同工艺的机织半成型提花女裙产品：①机织半成型裙腰暗花效应提花女裙织物，裙腰甲、乙、丙三组纬纱排列比为4∶3∶1，裙身甲乙两组纬线排列比为1∶1，纬线氨纶包覆纱的背衬浮长为28，裙腰与裙身的组织结构均采用双层空心袋组织，裙腰花部采用三角形图案，配以巧妙的图案变化，使其具有独特的暗花效应，同时裙腰与裙身的过渡部位亦用三角形图案，裙腰上下呼应，增加了立体层次感。裙身部位则使用左右对称的单独图案，裙腰与裙身的衔接自然流畅，浑然一体。该女裙具有良好弹性收缩性能，且手感柔软，穿着舒适合体。②机织半成型裙身抛道提花女裙织物，裙腰甲、乙、丙三组纬纱排列比为4∶3∶1，裙身甲乙两组纬纱排列比为1∶1且部分纬纱抛道，纬线氨纶包覆纱的背衬浮长为28，裙腰采用双层接结组织，裙身采用双层空心袋组织，裙腰与裙身过渡部位采用小三角形几何图案，裙身部位采用类似于江南水乡的纹样，因部分纬纱的抛道，使得该女裙具有如流水一般的动态美感，风格轻盈独特、层次突出。
In recent years, with the improvement of people's living standard and the promoting ofconcepts, such as convenience, comfort and environmental protection, people have more andmore requirement on clothing’s function. So develop textile and clothing products which havegood comfortable sensation and simple sewing processing process and less raw material wasteand good exterior effect, would have a very good market prospect.
In this topic, the semi-molding jacquard skirt waist had an excellent elasticity shrinkageperformance, while skirt body parts without elastic that can make the wearer take good lightsomeand fit feeling, and avoid the feeling of enchained and oppressive. At the same time, this kind ofskirt could once shaped with different style after leave the machine. It only needed to sew up thetwo juncture sides to get a complete female skirt. It could avoid a lot of material wasting in theprocess of cutting.
The semi-molding jacquard skirt waist required for high elasticity shrink and comfortablefit feeling, so the skirt waist needed a reasonable configuration of warp and weft materials andorganization structure design. Warp chose nylon yarn which has good stretching, and weft usedthree groups in which weft A was polyester yarn and weft B was staple rayon and weft C wascovered spandex yarn having good elasticity. Weave structure was double take or double hollowbag. At the same time, each performance of high elastic female skirt waist such as elasticresilience, pressure comfort, flexibility and breathability and so on, was related to the factorssuch as skirt waist’s wefts arrangement, organization structure and stretch covered spandex yarnbacking floating length.
For studying each factor of the high elastic female skirt waist affected on the performance,and providing certain theoretical basis to the development of semi-molding jacquard skirt, thispaper established an orthogonal test plan on properties of the samples of high elastic female skirtwaist. The orthogonal experiment has established three factors. Actor A stands for weftsarrangement which has three levels including2:1:1,4:3:1and6:5:1. Factor B stands fororganization structure which has two levels including double take organization and doublehollow bag organization. Factor C stands for covered spandex yarn backing floating length,which has three levels including18,28and38. Then, according to orthogonal analysis form L9 (34), analyzing the factors to skirt waist level of elastic fabric resilience, pressure comfort,flexibility and the effect of breathability, and based on orthogonal analysis and optimum levelcombination that: sample’s elastic recovery performance influenced by factor A weftarrangement is the biggest, affected by factor B weave structure’s is the next, factor C coveredspandex yarn backing floating length’s influence is the minimum; Sample’s pressure comfort hasgreat association with factor A weft arrangement and factor C covered spandex yarn backingfloating length, and the influences of factor B weave structure could be almost no consideration;Sample’s breathability influenced by factor A weft arrangement is the biggest, factor C coveredspandex yarn backing floating length’s influence is the second, and factor B weave structure’sinfluence is relatively minor; Sample’s flexibility, the poor value R of the three factors are veryclose, can deemed the influence of three factors, weft arrangement, weave structure, coveredspandex yarn backing floating length, is not big.
In the comprehensive analysis of female skirt waist samples’ elastic resilience, pressurecomfort, breathability and flexibility, designed and developed two different style wovensemi-molding jacquard female skirt products:(1) woven semi-molding jacquard female skirtfabric with the dark flower effect of skirt waist: skirt waist a, b, and c three groups’ weftarrangement for4:3:1, skirt body a and b two groups’ arranged for1:1, the covered spandex yarnbacking floating length for28, skirt waist and skirt body’s weave to adopt tabby hollow bagweave, the transition parts of skirt waist and skirt body adopt triangular pattern, skirt body partsused similar on the foreign castle symmetry of single grain appearance, this female skirt hasgood elasticity shrinkage performance, and soft feel, comfortable fit.(2)woven semi-moldingjacquard female skirt fabric with skirt body thrown way: skirt waist a, b, and c three groups’ weftarrangement for4:3:1, skirt body a and b two groups’ weft arrangement ratio for1:1and part ofwefts casting way, the covered spandex yarn backing floating length for28, skirt waist pick theplain stitching weave, skirt body use the plain hollow bag weave, the transition part of skirt waistand skirt body adopt small triangular geometry pattern, skirt body adopt a pattern similarly theYangtze river delta, because of the wefts part casting way, make the female skirt is like watergeneral dynamic aesthetic feeling, lightsome and unique style and outstanding level.
引文
[1]王岩.论织成[J].丝绸,1991(3):44-46.
[2]黄春娜.基于数码织造技术的织成服装面料的创新性开发[J].丝绸,2008(10):13-15.
[3]顾远渊.成型类针织服装设计研究.北京服装学院硕士论文,2005:6-9.
[4]师群、张艳、蔡秀文.服装裁剪缝纫自学丛书：裙子与连衣裙.中国轻工业出版社,1993:1-2.
[5]翁越飞.提花织物的设计与工艺[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2003:246-254.
[6]温兰.弹性面料外观效果与服装风格设计[J].辽宁丝绸,2006(3):11-12.
[7]李捷，郑天勇，杨俊霞.织物结构对织物透气性能影响的研究[J].天津纺织工学院学报，1998,17(4):92.
[8]韩容、马豫海、楼凡.数码纺织在室内装饰中的开发与应用[J].丝绸,2006,6:12-15.
[9]曾莹.12个关键词透析面料流行专家论道:2011春夏纺织面料开发方向——访国家纺织产品开发中心产品事业部产品开发专员张静[J].中国纤检,2010,16:74-75.
[10]陈晓玲，聂存云，刘驰.面料弹性测试及其分类[J].广西纺织科技,2009,38(1):20-23.
[11]赵选民.试验设计方法[M].北京:科学出版社,2006.
[12]陈丽华.高收缩聚酯纤维织物的设计与开发[J].天津工业大学学报,2004,23(3):49-52.
[13]顾平.织物结构与设计学[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2004:93-102.
[14]聂建斌、何奕中.多层机织物的组织设计[J].纺织学报,2010,31(2):50-52.
[15]王晋子.青年女性内衣压力舒适性小样本研究[D].北京:北京服装学院,2005.
[16]姚穆.织物结构与性能[Z].西北纺织工学院纺织系,1982.
[17]吴济宏，于伟东.针织面料的拉伸弹性与服装压[J].武汉科技学院学报,2006,19(1),21-25.
[18]韩容、马豫海、楼凡.数码纺织在室内装饰中的开发与应用[J].丝绸,2006,6:12-15.
[19] Helmut，Windsurfer．50years of Weaving Technology[J].International Textile Bulletin,2004(3):54-56.
[20]周赳.数码提花织物的研究理论和研究框架[J].纺织学报,2003,24(3):198.
[21]赵书经.纺织材料实验教程[M].中国纺织出版社,1989.
[22]王鸿博，高卫东.织物质量的模糊综合评判[J].江南大学学报,2002(3):281-285.
[23]严燕莲.弹性针织面料服装纸样设计探讨[J].针织工业,2004,08(4):135-137.
[24] Zimin Jin, Shuqin Yu, Liyu Ma,etc. The Design of Woven Semi-Molding Jacquard FemaleSkirt[J]. Advanced Materials Research,2011,09:332-334.
[25]郁崇文，汪军.工程参数的最优化设计[M].上海：东华大学出版社,2003:24-29.
[26]周赳、吴文正.有彩数码提花织物的创新设计原理和方法[J].纺织学报,2006,7(5):6-9.
[27] Bell，T F. Jacquard Weaving and Designing[M].London：Longmans Green and Co,1895:117.
[28]李加林、陶永政.数码仿真彩色丝织技术及其应用[J].纺织学报,2004,25(1):123-125.
[29]周赳、吴文正.基于数码技术的机织物组织设计原理和方法[J].纺织学报,2007,28(4):48-51.
[30]浙江丝绸工学院与苏州丝绸工学院合编.织物组织与纹织学[M].第二版.北京:中国纺织出版社,2003.10.
[31]田鸿美.高花纹织物的设计与开发[J].国外丝绸,2007,5:36.
[32]陈秋水.织物结构与设计[M].上海:中国纺织大学出版社,1998.23.
[33]张筱杰,沈干.永久性填芯高花织物的设计[J].丝绸,2003,10:12-13.
[34]蔡黎明等.纺织品大全[M].北京:纺织工业出版社,1992.589.
[35]周赳、吴文正.数码提花织物创新设计的实质[J].纺织学报,2007,28(7):36.
[36]钟安华，张强.弹力女内衣压力舒适性研究[J].针织工业,2006(4):27-28.
[37]缪秋菊.捻丝在织物设计中的应用[J].四川丝绸,1997,2:32.
[38]杨志清.装饰织物浮雕图案的加工方法[J].现代纺织技术,2005,1:2-3.
[39]张森林.纹织CAD原理及应用[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2005.150-167.
[40]李志祥.电子提花机及其产品开发[M].北京:纺织工业出版社,2000.160-180.
[41]沈干.丝绸产品设计[M].北京:纺织工业出版社,1991.91-140.
[42]杨志清.高花纹织物设计与加工方法[J].北京纺织,2005,26(3):63.
[43]孔庆伟,顾平.高花织物的设计与开发[J].丝绸,2007,5:12-13.
[44]顾平.织物的凹凸浮雕效应及其组织设计[J].四川丝绸,2008,1:13-15.
[45]印梅芬.凹凸装饰织物产生独特立体效果[J].纺织服装周刊,2003,5:30.
[46]聂建斌何奕中.多层机织物的组织设计[J].纺织学报,2010,31(2):50-52.
[47]陈丽华.高收缩聚酯纤维织物的设计与开发[J].天津工业大学学报，2004,23(3):49-52
[48]李志祥,王文中,郑智毓，段红，鄢和平.RC99A型巨力电子提花商标织机的原理[J].丝绸,2001,6:33-36.
[49]王默子.服饰图案的工艺表达[J].化纤与纺织技术,2007,3(1):42-45.
[50]朱红，邬福麟，韩丽云等.纺织材料学(第一版)[M].北京:纺织工业出版社,1990.380-382.
[2]黄春娜.基于数码织造技术的织成服装面料的创新性开发[J].丝绸,2008(10):13-15.
[3]顾远渊.成型类针织服装设计研究.北京服装学院硕士论文,2005:6-9.
[4]师群、张艳、蔡秀文.服装裁剪缝纫自学丛书：裙子与连衣裙.中国轻工业出版社,1993:1-2.
[5]翁越飞.提花织物的设计与工艺[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2003:246-254.
[6]温兰.弹性面料外观效果与服装风格设计[J].辽宁丝绸,2006(3):11-12.
[7]李捷，郑天勇，杨俊霞.织物结构对织物透气性能影响的研究[J].天津纺织工学院学报，1998,17(4):92.
[8]韩容、马豫海、楼凡.数码纺织在室内装饰中的开发与应用[J].丝绸,2006,6:12-15.
[9]曾莹.12个关键词透析面料流行专家论道:2011春夏纺织面料开发方向——访国家纺织产品开发中心产品事业部产品开发专员张静[J].中国纤检,2010,16:74-75.
[10]陈晓玲，聂存云，刘驰.面料弹性测试及其分类[J].广西纺织科技,2009,38(1):20-23.
[11]赵选民.试验设计方法[M].北京:科学出版社,2006.
[12]陈丽华.高收缩聚酯纤维织物的设计与开发[J].天津工业大学学报,2004,23(3):49-52.
[13]顾平.织物结构与设计学[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2004:93-102.
[14]聂建斌、何奕中.多层机织物的组织设计[J].纺织学报,2010,31(2):50-52.
[15]王晋子.青年女性内衣压力舒适性小样本研究[D].北京:北京服装学院,2005.
[16]姚穆.织物结构与性能[Z].西北纺织工学院纺织系,1982.
[17]吴济宏，于伟东.针织面料的拉伸弹性与服装压[J].武汉科技学院学报,2006,19(1),21-25.
[18]韩容、马豫海、楼凡.数码纺织在室内装饰中的开发与应用[J].丝绸,2006,6:12-15.
[19] Helmut，Windsurfer．50years of Weaving Technology[J].International Textile Bulletin,2004(3):54-56.
[20]周赳.数码提花织物的研究理论和研究框架[J].纺织学报,2003,24(3):198.
[21]赵书经.纺织材料实验教程[M].中国纺织出版社,1989.
[22]王鸿博，高卫东.织物质量的模糊综合评判[J].江南大学学报,2002(3):281-285.
[23]严燕莲.弹性针织面料服装纸样设计探讨[J].针织工业,2004,08(4):135-137.
[24] Zimin Jin, Shuqin Yu, Liyu Ma,etc. The Design of Woven Semi-Molding Jacquard FemaleSkirt[J]. Advanced Materials Research,2011,09:332-334.
[25]郁崇文，汪军.工程参数的最优化设计[M].上海：东华大学出版社,2003:24-29.
[26]周赳、吴文正.有彩数码提花织物的创新设计原理和方法[J].纺织学报,2006,7(5):6-9.
[27] Bell，T F. Jacquard Weaving and Designing[M].London：Longmans Green and Co,1895:117.
[28]李加林、陶永政.数码仿真彩色丝织技术及其应用[J].纺织学报,2004,25(1):123-125.
[29]周赳、吴文正.基于数码技术的机织物组织设计原理和方法[J].纺织学报,2007,28(4):48-51.
[30]浙江丝绸工学院与苏州丝绸工学院合编.织物组织与纹织学[M].第二版.北京:中国纺织出版社,2003.10.
[31]田鸿美.高花纹织物的设计与开发[J].国外丝绸,2007,5:36.
[32]陈秋水.织物结构与设计[M].上海:中国纺织大学出版社,1998.23.
[33]张筱杰,沈干.永久性填芯高花织物的设计[J].丝绸,2003,10:12-13.
[34]蔡黎明等.纺织品大全[M].北京:纺织工业出版社,1992.589.
[35]周赳、吴文正.数码提花织物创新设计的实质[J].纺织学报,2007,28(7):36.
[36]钟安华，张强.弹力女内衣压力舒适性研究[J].针织工业,2006(4):27-28.
[37]缪秋菊.捻丝在织物设计中的应用[J].四川丝绸,1997,2:32.
[38]杨志清.装饰织物浮雕图案的加工方法[J].现代纺织技术,2005,1:2-3.
[39]张森林.纹织CAD原理及应用[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2005.150-167.
[40]李志祥.电子提花机及其产品开发[M].北京:纺织工业出版社,2000.160-180.
[41]沈干.丝绸产品设计[M].北京:纺织工业出版社,1991.91-140.
[42]杨志清.高花纹织物设计与加工方法[J].北京纺织,2005,26(3):63.
[43]孔庆伟,顾平.高花织物的设计与开发[J].丝绸,2007,5:12-13.
[44]顾平.织物的凹凸浮雕效应及其组织设计[J].四川丝绸,2008,1:13-15.
[45]印梅芬.凹凸装饰织物产生独特立体效果[J].纺织服装周刊,2003,5:30.
[46]聂建斌何奕中.多层机织物的组织设计[J].纺织学报,2010,31(2):50-52.
[47]陈丽华.高收缩聚酯纤维织物的设计与开发[J].天津工业大学学报，2004,23(3):49-52
[48]李志祥,王文中,郑智毓，段红，鄢和平.RC99A型巨力电子提花商标织机的原理[J].丝绸,2001,6:33-36.
[49]王默子.服饰图案的工艺表达[J].化纤与纺织技术,2007,3(1):42-45.
[50]朱红，邬福麟，韩丽云等.纺织材料学(第一版)[M].北京:纺织工业出版社,1990.380-382.