近现代中国葡萄酒产业发展研究
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摘要
中国葡萄酒产业从1892年张裕酿酒公司成立到2012年正好120年历史。历经1949年前战乱、1949年后经济困难、十年文革三个时期巨大创伤,新生的中国葡萄酒产业一直在风雨飘摇中勉强维持生命。直到20世纪80年代中国改革开放至今,国民经济迅速起飞,中国葡萄酒产业随之进入迅速发展轨道。历经三十年快速发展,中国葡萄酒产业如今已达到生产量世界第六、消费量世界第五的排名。在当今葡萄酒文化世界里,中国葡萄酒文化的声音仍然很微弱,我们虽然已是葡萄酒生产大国,但还不是葡萄酒生产强国。近现代中国葡萄酒作为工业是从西方传入,现在的葡萄酒文化主要是指以法国葡萄酒文化为蓝本西方葡萄酒文化,但中国也有很深厚葡萄用于酿酒的历史积淀。在当代中国葡萄酒产业,由于对传统的全盘否定而导致对“本原性”或“起源性”问题的漠视,“中国”生活形式的内在韵律和自我指向始终没有能够被揭示、发挥、确立出来。从产业化角度系统研究近现代中国葡萄酒产业发展历程,是重建中国葡萄酒文化自身历史连续性的问题,是重建讨论中国葡萄酒产业发展历史知识和价值框架的连续性,是对中国葡萄酒产业的自我审视。重建中国葡萄酒文化历史的连续性,重建讨论中国葡萄酒产业历史知识和价值框架的连续性,不是为了历史而历史,而是为了中国葡萄酒产业的未来,是从研究上确立中国葡萄酒文化的努力。只有抱着这样的历史意识和文化政治眼光,中国葡萄酒产业历史经验正面的、积极的、建设性和创造性价值才有可能被挖掘出来。从产业化发展的角度系统研究中国葡萄酒产业历史,也为以后更进一步深入研究葡萄产业化栽培、葡萄酒酿造工艺发展方向、葡萄酒产业集聚化发展问题、葡萄酒产业国际化未来研究打下基础,也有助于以后将中国葡萄酒产业纳入产业经济学、文化学、政策学的体系和框架进行专门研究。
     本研究以葡萄酒产业链条为横轴,以近现代百余年葡萄酒产业链条各环节发展历程为纵轴,综合运用历史学、产业经济学、文化学的理论方法来研究近现代葡萄酒产业发展历程,并展望中国葡萄酒产业国际化发展前景。本文研究的重点及所得出的结论如下:
     (1)系统梳理中国葡萄酒产业从诞生到当前的发展历史,采用“横排竖写”的方式为中国葡萄酒产业发展历史作传。将原料栽培、酿酒和设备、流通和市场到产业化道路的葡萄酒产业问题从产业诞生到21世纪初的历史系统梳理,力求建立起中国葡萄酒产业发展历史的完整性。
     (2)在观照中国葡萄酒产业存在的时间和空间背景并仔细审视中国葡萄酒产业的发展历程后,展望中国葡萄酒产业未来国际化前景。葡萄酒消费在中国将持续高速增长很长时间、中国葡萄酒文化将会确立、中国葡萄酒产业必将进入主要出口国行列。中国葡萄酒产业必须提高水准、锻炼国际眼光,主动参与行业国际竞争、提升在世界葡萄酒市场的竞争力并逐步实现葡萄酒产业的国际化。
     (3)伴随中国葡萄酒市场消费量剧增,吸引大批国内外财富集团投资中国葡萄酒业。大量国外投资和进口酒涌入一方面为中国带来成熟技术和管理经验,另一方面也给国产葡萄酒生产提出挑战。中国葡萄酒产业必须尽快提高产品质量水准和文化水准,提升在世界葡萄酒市场的竞争力,主动参与国际竞争,实现葡萄酒产业国际化发展。
     (4)从文化政治意义来讲,中国葡萄酒文化只有抵抗才有现代性,中西方文化迥异,经济发展模式、土地制度、饮食结构相差甚大,一旦全盘接受西方葡萄酒文化及其发展模式,中国葡萄酒产业发展就丧失了个性,失去自己的独特性就等于放弃对自身普遍性的追求,从而就没有未来的路可走。中国葡萄酒产业通向未来的路,必须要回到自身存在的本原,并具把自身特色都表现出来的意志,就是最终要创造出鲜明的中国葡萄酒文化。中国葡萄酒产业的未来之路必须经由对自身历史的系统化、理论化研究,这样才会少走弯路,对外来的现成的葡萄酒文化的单纯模仿不是路。如果我们总是在模仿西方葡萄酒文化,追赶法国葡萄酒产业,那中国葡萄酒产业发展最高只能达到其复制品或者叫赝品的程度,永远也不可能达到等同或超越它们的高度。中国葡萄酒产业要发展壮大,必须从自身历史找到自觉、自信,从而走出一条自主创新之路。
China's wine industry has a history of120years from1892when Changyu Wine Brewing Company was founded to2012. China's wine industry has experienced three difficult periods:the periods of the wars before1949, the economic difficulty after1949and the10-year Great Cultural Revolution. Newly-born China's wine industry has been surviving these hard times. From the reform and opening up to the outside world in the1980s to now, China's wine industry has entered a period of its fast development with the rapid growth of China's national economy. After a30-year rapid development, today its output and consumption have ranked the sixth place and the fifth place in the world respectively. Currently, in the world of wine culture, although China is one of the large wine producers in the world, China is not a powerful wine-producing country because China's voice in the wine culture is still very weak. As an industry, the modern wine industry is introduced into China from western countries. Although today's wine culture mainly refers to the western wine culture taking French wine culture as its chief source, China has a long history of using grape to brew wine. Due to the total negation of the wine culture, the primitive source or origin of the wine culture has been neglected and the essence and development orientation of the wine culture have not been revealed and established in modern China's wine industry. From the perspective of industrialization, the systematic research on the development course of Modern China's wine industry is done to rebuild the continuity of the history of China's wine industry, to re-establish and discuss continuity of the historical knowledge and value framework of China's wine industry, and to reexamine the development of China's wine industry; this systematic research is done not for the history itself but for the future of China's wine industry and the efforts to establish China's wine industry culture; therefore, only from the perspective of historic consciousness, culture and politics can the positive, constructive and creative value of China's wine industry be excavated out. From the perspective of its industrialized development, the systematic research on the history of Modern China's wine industry is done to lay a foundation for studying the industrialized grape cultivation further, the development direction of the wine production technique and the centralized development of the wine industry, and for the future study on wine industry internationalization, which helps classify China's wine industry into the system and framework of industrial economics, culture and policy for specialized research.
     With the wine industry chain as a horizontal axis and every link of about100-year modern wine industry chain as an ordinate axis, this study has mainly employed theories of history, industrial economics and culture to analyze the development course of modern wine industry and look into the future of the internationalized development of modern China's wine industry. The focus and conclusion of this study are as follows:
     (1) The development history of China's wine industry from its birth to present status is systematically analyzed to seek to establish the completeness of China's wine industry development history through the research on the raw material cultivation, the wine production, the wine-making equipment, the distribution, the marketing, the path to its industrialization and its history of its development in the21st century.
     (2) The future internationalized prospect of China's wine industry has been looked into after the development course of China's wine industry is carefully studied in the light of its time and space. The consumption of wine in China will continue to increase rapidly for a long time; the wine culture will be established in China and China will become one of countries which export the wine in the world. In order to internationalize China's wine industry, China wine industry will have to raise standards of the wine quality, focus its eyes upon the international market, actively participate in international competition, promote its competitiveness in the world wine market and gradually realize the internationalization of the wine industry.
     (3) The rapid increase in wine consumption on Chinese market has been attracting a large number of domestic and foreign Fortune Groups to invest in China's wine industry. On the other hand, a large number of foreign investments and imported wine have not only brought the advanced technology and the management experience, but also challenged China's wine industry on the other hand. Therefore, China's wine industry has to improve the wine quality and the wine culture as soon as possible to promote its competitiveness on the world wine market and actively participate in the international competition so that the internationalized development of China's wine industry can come true.
     (4) From the cultural and political perspective, because of the difference between Chinese culture and western culture, China's wine culture cannot realize its modernization until it fights against the western wine culture. For there exists a great difference in the economic development models, the land system and the diet between China and western countries, once China's wine industry accepts the western wine culture and its development models, the development of China's wine industry will lose its own characteristic, which is equal to a loss of its popularity. If this happened, China's wine industry would have no a good development future. Briefly, the path to the future development of China's wine industry is to create a distinctive China's wine culture through finding its own essence and having a will of displaying its own characteristic to the world; and the path to the future development of China's wine industry is to study its own history systematically and theoretically. Only in this way can China's wine industry develop successfully and not simply imitate the development path of the western wine industry. If it always imitates the western wine culture and catch up with the development of French wine industry, the development of China's wine industry will only replicate the development of French wine industry or reach the extent of French wine industry development, and never be able to achieve the same development level of French wine industry or exceed its development level. In general, the great development of China's wine industry has to depend upon its own innovation with Chinese characteristics based on finding its self-consciousness and self-confidence from its own development history.
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