对Tencel纤维的纺纱工艺及纺纱方法的研究
摘要
Tencel是再生纤维素纤维,取白天然木材,其生产过程清洁无毒,99.5%以上的溶剂可被回收,极少数的残留沉淀物可在适当的生物处理过程中被降解,因此它具有良好的环保性能。
Tencel纤维非常坚韧,无论在干或湿的状态下,都具有很高的强力。在干态时,高强力意味着面料保形性好,可提高纺纱及织造的生产效率;在湿态时,高强力可以保证加工或水沈过程中织物的尺寸稳定性。其良好的吸湿性使其具有很好的着色效果,可为染厂降低生产成本。其良好的可纺性,能和棉、麻、毛、绢丝、羊绒、涤纶等各种纤维进行混纺,制成不同规格的纱支,所织成的织物穿着舒适,柔软透气,悬垂性好,皮肤触感良好,易于打理,是服装面料及家用纺织品特别是睡衣和床上用品的首选。因此我公司很重视Tencel纤维系列品种的开发和生产。
本文通过Tencel纺纱生产实践,在清、梳、并、粗、细及后加工各工序进行合理的工艺设置,结合生产流程的质量控制使其质量达到较好水平。同时在粗纱工序进行正交设计优选出最优工艺参数,进而更好的保证成纱质量。另外,对纺纱过程中出现的疵品进行波谱分析,找出故障原因,为长期有效地质量控制积累了一定经验。
为进一步提高Tencel成纱质量,引入赛络纺纱新技术。赛络纺是集纺纱、并线、捻线为一体的纺纱新技术。赛络纱及其织物风格独特,深受市场欢迎;因其设备改造费用低,产品附加值高而倍受纺织企业的青睐。本文介绍了赛络纺的工作原理、技术要求、生产设备和产品特性,及赛络纺在国产棉纺细纱机上的改造使用,通过Tencel系列品种环锭纺和赛络纺成纱指标对比,显示了赛络纱良好的性能。尤其用赛络纺技术纺氨纶包芯纱,可使包覆效果更好,纱线手感柔软,耐磨性较好,纱线条干均匀度,强伸性均优于传统的包芯纱。
作为一种新工艺,通过在传统细纱机上进行改造纺制,不仅改善成纱内外在质量,进一步适用于高速织机的需求,还可降低成本,提高产品附加值,因而具有良好的市场发展前景。
Tencel is a regenerated cellulose fibre that made from natural woods.Its process of production is clean and nonpoisonous. 99.5 percent of solvent can be retrieved, very little of the left sediment can be cut down and decomposed through the suitable biological degradative process. So it has good environmental protective property.Tencel is a high-tenacity fibre. Whenever it in dry or wet condition, it has high strength. In dry condition, high strength means the fabric has good shape relenlion, it can improve spinning and weaving production efficiency. In wet condition, high strength can keep fabric's shape stableness in production or in cleaning process. Its good hygroscopicity make it has fine substantivity, thus it can reduce the production costs in printing and dyeing mill. Tencel has good spinnability, it can blend spinning with cotton, linen, wool, silk, cachmire, polyester etc variousnt fibres, and spin various different counts of yarn. Tencel fabric is wear-comfort, softness, good breathability, great touch, and easy wash and wear. It is the first selection of wearing apparel and home textiles especially pajamas and bed clothes. So our company pay more attentions to produce and develop series new varieties.Through Tencel spinning production practice in scotching, carding, drawing, roving, spinning and winding process, we set up rational spinning process to control quality, further improve semi-manufactured goods and yarn property to good level. After all we select optimun process parameter through orthogonal design in roving to further control yarn property. On the other hand, we combine the substand and products in the process, through wavegram analysis to find reasons of the failure, finally we accumulate some experience by the effective quality control.We draw into a new spinning technology-Sirospun for further improve Tencel yarn quality. The Sirospun is a new technology of woolen spinning, which combine spinning, doubling and twisting into one operation. The Sirospun yarns and its products have special styles, good markets and high economical benefits, so the Sirospun has been well favored by textile factories because its low expenses in equipment
modification and high extra-value of the products. The Sirospun principle, technological requirements, peocessing equipment, product specialties and processing program are described here in detail. It has important practical significance in spreading Sirospun technology in china-made spinners, and compare sirospun yarn property to ring spinning yarn property, showing sirospun yarn has very good property. Especially the Sirospun technology has been applied to produce core yarn. It can make yarn has good wraping effection, yarn touch softness, good wear-resisting, good yarn evenness, and strength is better than traditional core yarn.As a new process, through spinning in the transformed traditional ring spinning, it not only improves yarn quality but also fits to the demands of high speed of air-jet loom in the next process, and can reduce production costs, improve production additional value, so it has dood market progress prospect.
Tencel纤维非常坚韧,无论在干或湿的状态下,都具有很高的强力。在干态时,高强力意味着面料保形性好,可提高纺纱及织造的生产效率;在湿态时,高强力可以保证加工或水沈过程中织物的尺寸稳定性。其良好的吸湿性使其具有很好的着色效果,可为染厂降低生产成本。其良好的可纺性,能和棉、麻、毛、绢丝、羊绒、涤纶等各种纤维进行混纺,制成不同规格的纱支,所织成的织物穿着舒适,柔软透气,悬垂性好,皮肤触感良好,易于打理,是服装面料及家用纺织品特别是睡衣和床上用品的首选。因此我公司很重视Tencel纤维系列品种的开发和生产。
本文通过Tencel纺纱生产实践,在清、梳、并、粗、细及后加工各工序进行合理的工艺设置,结合生产流程的质量控制使其质量达到较好水平。同时在粗纱工序进行正交设计优选出最优工艺参数,进而更好的保证成纱质量。另外,对纺纱过程中出现的疵品进行波谱分析,找出故障原因,为长期有效地质量控制积累了一定经验。
为进一步提高Tencel成纱质量,引入赛络纺纱新技术。赛络纺是集纺纱、并线、捻线为一体的纺纱新技术。赛络纱及其织物风格独特,深受市场欢迎;因其设备改造费用低,产品附加值高而倍受纺织企业的青睐。本文介绍了赛络纺的工作原理、技术要求、生产设备和产品特性,及赛络纺在国产棉纺细纱机上的改造使用,通过Tencel系列品种环锭纺和赛络纺成纱指标对比,显示了赛络纱良好的性能。尤其用赛络纺技术纺氨纶包芯纱,可使包覆效果更好,纱线手感柔软,耐磨性较好,纱线条干均匀度,强伸性均优于传统的包芯纱。
作为一种新工艺,通过在传统细纱机上进行改造纺制,不仅改善成纱内外在质量,进一步适用于高速织机的需求,还可降低成本,提高产品附加值,因而具有良好的市场发展前景。
Tencel is a regenerated cellulose fibre that made from natural woods.Its process of production is clean and nonpoisonous. 99.5 percent of solvent can be retrieved, very little of the left sediment can be cut down and decomposed through the suitable biological degradative process. So it has good environmental protective property.Tencel is a high-tenacity fibre. Whenever it in dry or wet condition, it has high strength. In dry condition, high strength means the fabric has good shape relenlion, it can improve spinning and weaving production efficiency. In wet condition, high strength can keep fabric's shape stableness in production or in cleaning process. Its good hygroscopicity make it has fine substantivity, thus it can reduce the production costs in printing and dyeing mill. Tencel has good spinnability, it can blend spinning with cotton, linen, wool, silk, cachmire, polyester etc variousnt fibres, and spin various different counts of yarn. Tencel fabric is wear-comfort, softness, good breathability, great touch, and easy wash and wear. It is the first selection of wearing apparel and home textiles especially pajamas and bed clothes. So our company pay more attentions to produce and develop series new varieties.Through Tencel spinning production practice in scotching, carding, drawing, roving, spinning and winding process, we set up rational spinning process to control quality, further improve semi-manufactured goods and yarn property to good level. After all we select optimun process parameter through orthogonal design in roving to further control yarn property. On the other hand, we combine the substand and products in the process, through wavegram analysis to find reasons of the failure, finally we accumulate some experience by the effective quality control.We draw into a new spinning technology-Sirospun for further improve Tencel yarn quality. The Sirospun is a new technology of woolen spinning, which combine spinning, doubling and twisting into one operation. The Sirospun yarns and its products have special styles, good markets and high economical benefits, so the Sirospun has been well favored by textile factories because its low expenses in equipment
modification and high extra-value of the products. The Sirospun principle, technological requirements, peocessing equipment, product specialties and processing program are described here in detail. It has important practical significance in spreading Sirospun technology in china-made spinners, and compare sirospun yarn property to ring spinning yarn property, showing sirospun yarn has very good property. Especially the Sirospun technology has been applied to produce core yarn. It can make yarn has good wraping effection, yarn touch softness, good wear-resisting, good yarn evenness, and strength is better than traditional core yarn.As a new process, through spinning in the transformed traditional ring spinning, it not only improves yarn quality but also fits to the demands of high speed of air-jet loom in the next process, and can reduce production costs, improve production additional value, so it has dood market progress prospect.
引文
1.2004年纺织面料展会材料
2.李云台 刘华.新型再生纤维素纤维的性能对比与鉴别[J],棉纺织技术 2003,9
3.王兟 李瑞洲.Tencel纤维强伸性能分析[J],棉纺织技术 1998:10
4.图片选自兰精公司与依棉集团技术交流资料
5.吴雄英 丁雪梅.Tencel纤维及其产品开发,国外纺织技术,1998,3
6.李瑞洲 庞金铃.Tencel纤维性能分析及其产品开发[J],河北轻化工学院学报,1998,19(2):
7.李茂松 衣志刚 周文龙.Lyocell纤维强伸性及其对织物性能的影响[J],纺织学报,2003,24(6):25
8.周绪珍 林正平.针织纱细节的控制,棉纺织技术[J],2002,30(12):37
9.张瑾.细纱欠伸对成纱条干均匀度的影响,棉纺织技术[J],2003,31(4):40
10.王绍斌 孙卫国 王文郁.络筒张力和速度对纱线质量的影响,棉纺织技术,2002,30(7):35
11.张德培 罗蕴玲 主编 应用概率统计 高等教育出版社 316页
12.王贤浩 编 纱条均匀度测试 纺织工业出版社 181页
13.毕松梅.Sirospun纺新技术的应用、发展及经济效益分析,安徽机电学院学报[J],2000,15(3):
14.季涛.等,确定赛络纺纱最佳工艺的新方法,纺织学报[J],1999,(5)22
15. K. P. S. cheng. Siro-spun characleristics Ⅰ [J]. TEXTILE ASIA, 1992. (12): 70
16. P. R. LAMB, L. JUNGHANI. Drafting and evenness of wool yarns produced on the PLYFIL, sirospun, and two-fold systems [J]. Text. Inst. 1993, (4): 27
17. K. P. S. cheng. Siro-spun characleristics Ⅱ [J].TEXTILE ASIA, 1998, (3): 66
18.阎磊 潘国桢 张新元.我国棉纺装备技术进步有关问题的探讨[J],棉纺织技术,2001,30增刊:4
19.陆凯.3S纺纱,2003年“马佐里杯”全国棉纺织优秀科技论文集
20.倪远.紧密纱技术及其纺纱系统评述,2003年“马佐里杯”全国棉纺织优秀科技论文集
21.吴敏 徐曼.紧密纺纱技术的探讨,2003年“马佐里杯”全国棉纺织优秀科技论文集
22.常克平.Siro纺的实用效益与发展趋势[J]。毛纺科技,1992,(3):43
23.孙鸿举.赛络纺生产实践分析[J]。纺织学报,14,(8):19
24.温宇.棉纺赛络纱生产技术研究[J]。广西纺织科技,1998,27(4):8
25.张一鸣 陆汉军 胡玲 胡小娥 陈军.在棉纺设备上采用赛络纺纺涤粘复合纱[J]。棉纺织技术,1999,27(12):33
26.俞雯 张元明.赛络纺技术纺毛氨包芯纱初探[J]。中国纺织大学学报,2000,26(3):
27.徐旻 李云庆.弹力包芯纱及其弹力织物质量控制探讨[J]。棉纺织技术,2004,31(4):21
28.吴绥菊 季晓雷 赛络纺弹性包芯纱生产工艺的优化[J]。棉纺织技术,2002,30(12):35
29.董灿君 氨纶包芯纱纺纱工艺和操作方法探讨[J]。棉纺织技术,2004,33(7):19
30.王秋霞 朱洪英 Tencel氨纶包芯纱纺纱实践[J]。棉纺织技术,2003,31(7):40
2.李云台 刘华.新型再生纤维素纤维的性能对比与鉴别[J],棉纺织技术 2003,9
3.王兟 李瑞洲.Tencel纤维强伸性能分析[J],棉纺织技术 1998:10
4.图片选自兰精公司与依棉集团技术交流资料
5.吴雄英 丁雪梅.Tencel纤维及其产品开发,国外纺织技术,1998,3
6.李瑞洲 庞金铃.Tencel纤维性能分析及其产品开发[J],河北轻化工学院学报,1998,19(2):
7.李茂松 衣志刚 周文龙.Lyocell纤维强伸性及其对织物性能的影响[J],纺织学报,2003,24(6):25
8.周绪珍 林正平.针织纱细节的控制,棉纺织技术[J],2002,30(12):37
9.张瑾.细纱欠伸对成纱条干均匀度的影响,棉纺织技术[J],2003,31(4):40
10.王绍斌 孙卫国 王文郁.络筒张力和速度对纱线质量的影响,棉纺织技术,2002,30(7):35
11.张德培 罗蕴玲 主编 应用概率统计 高等教育出版社 316页
12.王贤浩 编 纱条均匀度测试 纺织工业出版社 181页
13.毕松梅.Sirospun纺新技术的应用、发展及经济效益分析,安徽机电学院学报[J],2000,15(3):
14.季涛.等,确定赛络纺纱最佳工艺的新方法,纺织学报[J],1999,(5)22
15. K. P. S. cheng. Siro-spun characleristics Ⅰ [J]. TEXTILE ASIA, 1992. (12): 70
16. P. R. LAMB, L. JUNGHANI. Drafting and evenness of wool yarns produced on the PLYFIL, sirospun, and two-fold systems [J]. Text. Inst. 1993, (4): 27
17. K. P. S. cheng. Siro-spun characleristics Ⅱ [J].TEXTILE ASIA, 1998, (3): 66
18.阎磊 潘国桢 张新元.我国棉纺装备技术进步有关问题的探讨[J],棉纺织技术,2001,30增刊:4
19.陆凯.3S纺纱,2003年“马佐里杯”全国棉纺织优秀科技论文集
20.倪远.紧密纱技术及其纺纱系统评述,2003年“马佐里杯”全国棉纺织优秀科技论文集
21.吴敏 徐曼.紧密纺纱技术的探讨,2003年“马佐里杯”全国棉纺织优秀科技论文集
22.常克平.Siro纺的实用效益与发展趋势[J]。毛纺科技,1992,(3):43
23.孙鸿举.赛络纺生产实践分析[J]。纺织学报,14,(8):19
24.温宇.棉纺赛络纱生产技术研究[J]。广西纺织科技,1998,27(4):8
25.张一鸣 陆汉军 胡玲 胡小娥 陈军.在棉纺设备上采用赛络纺纺涤粘复合纱[J]。棉纺织技术,1999,27(12):33
26.俞雯 张元明.赛络纺技术纺毛氨包芯纱初探[J]。中国纺织大学学报,2000,26(3):
27.徐旻 李云庆.弹力包芯纱及其弹力织物质量控制探讨[J]。棉纺织技术,2004,31(4):21
28.吴绥菊 季晓雷 赛络纺弹性包芯纱生产工艺的优化[J]。棉纺织技术,2002,30(12):35
29.董灿君 氨纶包芯纱纺纱工艺和操作方法探讨[J]。棉纺织技术,2004,33(7):19
30.王秋霞 朱洪英 Tencel氨纶包芯纱纺纱实践[J]。棉纺织技术,2003,31(7):40