基于面料力学性能的职场衬衣外观形态保持性研究
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摘要
服装外观形态保持性对消费者在实际中长期穿着的服装有着重要的意义,外观形态保持性的强弱决定了服装在特定时间范围内的穿着外观形态效果,也决定着服装可以有效使用的时间。作为现代上班族工作过程中必不可少的职场衬衣,其外观形态保持性针对不同工作人群的长期工作姿态有着不同的要求。服装面料是服装造型的基础,是服装外观形态形成与保持的关键。因此,研究服装面料力学性能与服装外观形态保持性的关系,对于不同工作人群购买服装或者设计师针对不同工作者选择服装面料都有着重要的意义。
首先,本文系统介绍了服装外观形态保持性的内涵,依据不同的标准对其进行了分类,通过调查问卷的方式获得了不同工作人群穿着的职场衬衣的外观形态保持性的评价分指标及其权重。
然后,在实验部分,对收集到的面料进行初选得到64种面料,再对这些面料进行KES织物风格测试和主观等级评价,综合这两方面选出30种用于制作样衣的面料。将30种面料制作出60件样衣(每种面料制作两件同规格样衣)。对30件样衣进行使用实验,将实验后的30件样衣与另外30件样衣进行服装外观形态评价实验。
第三,在实验数据分析部分,依据外观形态评价得到不同面料对应服装的外观形态保持性,将服装的外观形态保持性与面料的力学性能进行灰色关联分析,找到对服装外观形态保持性影响显著的面料性能指标。
最后,以上面的分析为依据,将灰局势决策应用于服装外观形态保持性评价,进而从面料备选集中选出最佳面料,达到对面料客观优化选择的目的。
本文的研究可以用于服装设计师针对不同工作人群服装使用特点进行面料的客观选择,具有较强的实际意义。
The appearance retention of clothing is important to those clothes which are worn often by consumers,it may determine the performance that the clothing will show when it is worn,it may also determine how long the clothing can be used.As essential to the modern office worker in the workplace, the appearance retention of shirts has different requirements for different forms of working people to maintain long-term work attitude.The fabric is the foundation of the formation of clothing and is the key to the appearance retention of clothing. Therefore,it is important for different groups of people purchasing clothes or designer choosing to study the relationship between mechanical properties of fabric and the appearance retention of clothing.
Firstly, the paper describes the connotation of the appearance retention, according to different standard classify them,and by way of questionnaires to obtain sub-indicators and its weight of the appearance retention which the people in different workplace give.
Secondly,in the experiment,KES tester are employed to gain fabric basic mechanical property indexes of 64 kinds of fabrics selected from some fabrics collected,and these fabrics are graded through subjective assessment,integrate both to select 30 kinds of fabrics for making clothes. These 30 kinds of fabrics are used for making 60 shirts(every kinds of fabrics are made for the same two shirts).After wearing of 30 shirts for some time,these 30 shirts and another 30 shirts are used for evaluation of the appearance retention.
Thirdly, in the section of experimental data analysis, based on subjective evaluation appearance retention of clothing corresponding to different fabrics are obtained.Grey relational analysis is used to study the relation of clothing appearance retention and fabrics' mechanical properties ,then to find some significant mechanical property indexes to appearance retention of clothing.
Finally, based on the above analysis,use Grey situation decision in the evaluation of clothing appearance retention,and then optimize the choice of fabric objective purpose through this way.
This study can be used to objectively select fabric for different groups of people by fashion designer,this has a strong practical significance.
首先,本文系统介绍了服装外观形态保持性的内涵,依据不同的标准对其进行了分类,通过调查问卷的方式获得了不同工作人群穿着的职场衬衣的外观形态保持性的评价分指标及其权重。
然后,在实验部分,对收集到的面料进行初选得到64种面料,再对这些面料进行KES织物风格测试和主观等级评价,综合这两方面选出30种用于制作样衣的面料。将30种面料制作出60件样衣(每种面料制作两件同规格样衣)。对30件样衣进行使用实验,将实验后的30件样衣与另外30件样衣进行服装外观形态评价实验。
第三,在实验数据分析部分,依据外观形态评价得到不同面料对应服装的外观形态保持性,将服装的外观形态保持性与面料的力学性能进行灰色关联分析,找到对服装外观形态保持性影响显著的面料性能指标。
最后,以上面的分析为依据,将灰局势决策应用于服装外观形态保持性评价,进而从面料备选集中选出最佳面料,达到对面料客观优化选择的目的。
本文的研究可以用于服装设计师针对不同工作人群服装使用特点进行面料的客观选择,具有较强的实际意义。
The appearance retention of clothing is important to those clothes which are worn often by consumers,it may determine the performance that the clothing will show when it is worn,it may also determine how long the clothing can be used.As essential to the modern office worker in the workplace, the appearance retention of shirts has different requirements for different forms of working people to maintain long-term work attitude.The fabric is the foundation of the formation of clothing and is the key to the appearance retention of clothing. Therefore,it is important for different groups of people purchasing clothes or designer choosing to study the relationship between mechanical properties of fabric and the appearance retention of clothing.
Firstly, the paper describes the connotation of the appearance retention, according to different standard classify them,and by way of questionnaires to obtain sub-indicators and its weight of the appearance retention which the people in different workplace give.
Secondly,in the experiment,KES tester are employed to gain fabric basic mechanical property indexes of 64 kinds of fabrics selected from some fabrics collected,and these fabrics are graded through subjective assessment,integrate both to select 30 kinds of fabrics for making clothes. These 30 kinds of fabrics are used for making 60 shirts(every kinds of fabrics are made for the same two shirts).After wearing of 30 shirts for some time,these 30 shirts and another 30 shirts are used for evaluation of the appearance retention.
Thirdly, in the section of experimental data analysis, based on subjective evaluation appearance retention of clothing corresponding to different fabrics are obtained.Grey relational analysis is used to study the relation of clothing appearance retention and fabrics' mechanical properties ,then to find some significant mechanical property indexes to appearance retention of clothing.
Finally, based on the above analysis,use Grey situation decision in the evaluation of clothing appearance retention,and then optimize the choice of fabric objective purpose through this way.
This study can be used to objectively select fabric for different groups of people by fashion designer,this has a strong practical significance.
引文
[1]裘愉发.衬衫料及其开发[J].丝绸.1992(8):43-45
[2] http://info.texnet.com.cn/content/2008-02-01/166332.html
[3] S.Kawabata,The standardization and analysis of hand evaluation[J].Textile machinery society of Japan, Osaka, 1980,17(9):62.
[4]Postle R. Fabric objective measurement1 Part: Product development and implementation [J].Textile Asia,1989.20(10):59
[5]姚穆,徐军.织物悬垂性客观评价的研究[J].纺织学报,1999, 08:207-210.
[6]蒋晓文,服装面料的造型能力探讨[J].西北纺织工学院学报,1999, 09:241-248.
[7]王夕源,赵文贤,关燕等.织物动态悬垂风格自动测试方法研究[J].纺织学报,1992, 13(11):34-35
[8]倪红,李春萍.面料的悬垂性能对服装波浪造型的影响[J].丝绸,2001,02:43-45.
[9]章永红,罗莎.翻领造型的研究[J].浙江工程学院学报,1999,06:97-99.
[10]吕东风,张茂林,万民等.服装外表质量的评价[J].北京纺织,1999,20(6):47-49.
[11]陈伟伟.服装结构设计方法比较与外观效果评价[J]:硕士论文,苏州:苏州大学2006.
[12]杨莉,王府梅,吴雄英,王善元.西裤外观保持性与织物性能的关联性研究[J].国际纺织导报,1997, 03:49-53.
[13]李汝勤,宋钧才.纤维和纺织品的测试原理及设备[M].上海:中国纺织大学出版社,2002,385-388.
[14]S.Kawabata,NiwaM. Proceedings of 2nd Australia-Japan Symposium[C].The Textile Machinery Society of Japan,1985:675-686.
[15]Postle R. Fabric objective measurement1 Part:Product development and implementation [J]. Textile Asia,1989,20(10):59.
[16]周建萍,陈晟.KES织物风格仪测试指标的分析及应用[J].现代纺织技术.2005 (6):37-40.
[17]刘侃,谢红.面料力学性能与服装缝纫平整度等级关系研究[J].上海工程技术大学学报,2007,12(4):309-314.
[18]徐蓉蓉,张欣.服装面料成衣加工性能的研究与应用[J].针织工业,2005,7(7):27-30.
[19]刘成霞,陈慰来等.面料物理性能与袖山造型的相关性[J].纺织学报,2007,28(2):89-91.
[20]唐虹,张渭源等.粘合衬与面料风格变化的相关分析[J].纺织学报,2006,27(5):69-72.
[21]倪红.新品毛纺服装面料的性能与服装造型、生产的关系[J].国外丝绸,2003,4:33-34.
[22]郭嫣,张建炜.纯棉抗皱免烫织物结构与抗皱性探讨[J].北京纺织,2001,04:19-21.
[23]陈益人,孙家军,张纲.棉织物免烫整理研究[J].上海纺织科技,1999,06:49-51.
[24]滕新荣,刘福安,赵家森.涤纶HOY热收缩性与结构的关系[J].纺织科学研究,1999,03:18-22.
[25]于伟东.纺织材料学[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2006.
[26]吴倩.服装面料的缝制性能与形态特征[D].硕士论文,苏州:苏州大学,2004.
[27]蒋孝锋.论梭织面料与服装造型的关系[D].硕士论文,苏州:苏州大学,2003.
[28]汪正月,王府梅,徐广标,任惠.基于面料力学量的服装款式推荐模块的实现[J]东华大学学报(自然科学版). 2008,34(01):52-55.
[29]王府梅.服装面料的性能设计[M].上海:中国纺织大学出版社.2000.
[30]郭燕蕾.棉型男士衬衫面料手感风格与舒适性能测试与评价[D].硕士论文,苏州:苏州大学,2009.
[31]侯秀良,高卫东.KES- F织物风格评价系统的发展[J].毛纺科技.2005(3):46-48.
[32]肖学霞.基于FAST仪力学性能测试的织物手感客观评价研究[D].江苏:苏州大学,2005.
[33]刘珍珍.合体装的最佳合体度与面料性能关系的研究[D].硕士论文,苏州:苏州大学,2009.
[34]郑鹏程,汪学骞,陈翟.双模型互证法在西裤外观保持性研究中的应用[J].纺织学报,2007,03:79-83.
[35]林洪琴,王府梅.纺织面料性能预测的相关理论与优缺点评述[J].东华大学学报(自然科学版),2004,08:126-129.
[36]雷涛.基于GIS的襄(樊)十(堰)高速公路边坡养护管理研究[D].硕士论文,西安:长安大学, 2009.
[37]肖新平,宋中民,李峰.灰色技术基础与应用[M].北京:科学出版社,2005.
[38]杨洵,罗海燕.灰色关联评价模型在国有企业绩效评价中的应用[J].财会研究,2010,09:57-60.
[39]徐章一,马士华,许淑君.基于企业竞争力的合作伙伴选择的灰局势决策[J].工业与工程管理,2005,01:29-32.
[40]邓聚龙.灰预测与灰决策[M].武汉:华中理工大学出版社,2002.
[41]刘思峰等.灰色系统理论及其应用[M].北京:科学出版社,2008.
[2] http://info.texnet.com.cn/content/2008-02-01/166332.html
[3] S.Kawabata,The standardization and analysis of hand evaluation[J].Textile machinery society of Japan, Osaka, 1980,17(9):62.
[4]Postle R. Fabric objective measurement1 Part: Product development and implementation [J].Textile Asia,1989.20(10):59
[5]姚穆,徐军.织物悬垂性客观评价的研究[J].纺织学报,1999, 08:207-210.
[6]蒋晓文,服装面料的造型能力探讨[J].西北纺织工学院学报,1999, 09:241-248.
[7]王夕源,赵文贤,关燕等.织物动态悬垂风格自动测试方法研究[J].纺织学报,1992, 13(11):34-35
[8]倪红,李春萍.面料的悬垂性能对服装波浪造型的影响[J].丝绸,2001,02:43-45.
[9]章永红,罗莎.翻领造型的研究[J].浙江工程学院学报,1999,06:97-99.
[10]吕东风,张茂林,万民等.服装外表质量的评价[J].北京纺织,1999,20(6):47-49.
[11]陈伟伟.服装结构设计方法比较与外观效果评价[J]:硕士论文,苏州:苏州大学2006.
[12]杨莉,王府梅,吴雄英,王善元.西裤外观保持性与织物性能的关联性研究[J].国际纺织导报,1997, 03:49-53.
[13]李汝勤,宋钧才.纤维和纺织品的测试原理及设备[M].上海:中国纺织大学出版社,2002,385-388.
[14]S.Kawabata,NiwaM. Proceedings of 2nd Australia-Japan Symposium[C].The Textile Machinery Society of Japan,1985:675-686.
[15]Postle R. Fabric objective measurement1 Part:Product development and implementation [J]. Textile Asia,1989,20(10):59.
[16]周建萍,陈晟.KES织物风格仪测试指标的分析及应用[J].现代纺织技术.2005 (6):37-40.
[17]刘侃,谢红.面料力学性能与服装缝纫平整度等级关系研究[J].上海工程技术大学学报,2007,12(4):309-314.
[18]徐蓉蓉,张欣.服装面料成衣加工性能的研究与应用[J].针织工业,2005,7(7):27-30.
[19]刘成霞,陈慰来等.面料物理性能与袖山造型的相关性[J].纺织学报,2007,28(2):89-91.
[20]唐虹,张渭源等.粘合衬与面料风格变化的相关分析[J].纺织学报,2006,27(5):69-72.
[21]倪红.新品毛纺服装面料的性能与服装造型、生产的关系[J].国外丝绸,2003,4:33-34.
[22]郭嫣,张建炜.纯棉抗皱免烫织物结构与抗皱性探讨[J].北京纺织,2001,04:19-21.
[23]陈益人,孙家军,张纲.棉织物免烫整理研究[J].上海纺织科技,1999,06:49-51.
[24]滕新荣,刘福安,赵家森.涤纶HOY热收缩性与结构的关系[J].纺织科学研究,1999,03:18-22.
[25]于伟东.纺织材料学[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2006.
[26]吴倩.服装面料的缝制性能与形态特征[D].硕士论文,苏州:苏州大学,2004.
[27]蒋孝锋.论梭织面料与服装造型的关系[D].硕士论文,苏州:苏州大学,2003.
[28]汪正月,王府梅,徐广标,任惠.基于面料力学量的服装款式推荐模块的实现[J]东华大学学报(自然科学版). 2008,34(01):52-55.
[29]王府梅.服装面料的性能设计[M].上海:中国纺织大学出版社.2000.
[30]郭燕蕾.棉型男士衬衫面料手感风格与舒适性能测试与评价[D].硕士论文,苏州:苏州大学,2009.
[31]侯秀良,高卫东.KES- F织物风格评价系统的发展[J].毛纺科技.2005(3):46-48.
[32]肖学霞.基于FAST仪力学性能测试的织物手感客观评价研究[D].江苏:苏州大学,2005.
[33]刘珍珍.合体装的最佳合体度与面料性能关系的研究[D].硕士论文,苏州:苏州大学,2009.
[34]郑鹏程,汪学骞,陈翟.双模型互证法在西裤外观保持性研究中的应用[J].纺织学报,2007,03:79-83.
[35]林洪琴,王府梅.纺织面料性能预测的相关理论与优缺点评述[J].东华大学学报(自然科学版),2004,08:126-129.
[36]雷涛.基于GIS的襄(樊)十(堰)高速公路边坡养护管理研究[D].硕士论文,西安:长安大学, 2009.
[37]肖新平,宋中民,李峰.灰色技术基础与应用[M].北京:科学出版社,2005.
[38]杨洵,罗海燕.灰色关联评价模型在国有企业绩效评价中的应用[J].财会研究,2010,09:57-60.
[39]徐章一,马士华,许淑君.基于企业竞争力的合作伙伴选择的灰局势决策[J].工业与工程管理,2005,01:29-32.
[40]邓聚龙.灰预测与灰决策[M].武汉:华中理工大学出版社,2002.
[41]刘思峰等.灰色系统理论及其应用[M].北京:科学出版社,2008.