中药天然染料的开发和应用初步研究
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摘要
中药天然染料是中药资源开发的一个重要的前景广阔的领域。中药天然染料是从生物体中提取的,与环境相容性好,可生物降解；在染色过程中,其药效活性成分和香味成分与色素一起被织物吸收,使染色后的织物具有特殊的药物保健功能,如抗菌、消炎、防虫、抗过敏、抗肿瘤、抗氧化、防辐射、降压、促进血液循环等[1-3]。因此,随着人类环保意识的增强及对自身健康的日益重视,以中药为原料的天然染料的研究和应用再次成为了热点,受到了人们的青睐。
中药天然染料目前普遍存在原料来源少,上染天然纤维素纤维困难、色牢度差、颜色单调等问题,使其开发和应用受到了极大的限制。针对这些现状,本课题选取了栀子作为原料,进行了栀子黄色素的制备研究；选取了紫胶、金合欢、大黄、诃子、靛蓝、儿茶、石榴皮、栀子和丹参等九种中药天然染料对棉布进行染色研究。研究结果表明：①已能使紫胶、金合欢、诃子、靛蓝、儿茶、石榴皮、栀子和丹参等八种天然染料上染棉布；②已能使紫胶、金合欢、诃子、靛蓝、儿茶、石榴皮等六种天然染料的日晒牢度达到2级以上,较好的可达5-6级；且其耐洗牢度、摩擦牢度均符合市场要求；③通过拼色和套染试验,选用不同的媒染助剂等方法得到了不同的颜色；④初步掌握了以上几种中药天然染料的染色工艺,并对相关类别的天然染料的染色方法有了一定程度的了解；其中选取诃子、石榴皮天然染料,对其上染棉布的染色工艺进行了示范性研究：分别采用非媒(直接染色)、预媒、同媒和后媒四种染色方法,并分别运用明矾、氯化锌、富镧氯化稀土、混合氯化稀土、氯化亚锶、氯化钙、氯化亚锡和硫酸亚铁等八种媒染剂进行染色试验,以考察不同的染色方法及不同的媒染剂对棉布染色效果的影响；通过媒染剂用量单因数实验和正交试验优化了染料用量、媒染剂用量、染色温度、染色时间等染色工艺参数；其结果表明：石榴皮天然染料上染棉布采用优化的锌同浴媒染染色工艺可染得色泽鲜艳,色牢度较好的黄色棉织物；诃子天然染料上染棉布采用优化的铝预媒染色工艺可染得色泽鲜艳,色牢度较好的黄色棉织物。
Traditional Chinese medicine resources of natural dyes is an important development in the field of prospects. Natural dyes of traditional Chinese medicine are extracted from organisms, and environmental compatibility and biodegradable. In the dyeing process, fabrics possess special health care functions after absorbing efficient components,the scent of drugs and their pigment composition, such as antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, pest control, anti-allergic, anti-tumor, anti-oxidation, radiation-resistant, lowering blood pressure, promoting blood circulation, etc. Thus, with the strengthening environmental awareness and the growing importance of health,it becomes a hot spot once again to research and apply natural dyes of traditional Chinese medicine.
Natural dyes of traditional Chinese medicine currently have common problems,such as less source of raw materials, dyeing natural cellulose fibers difficulties, poor color fastness, monotonous color, which has severely limited their development and application. To aim directly at these statuses, our subject selected gardenia as the raw material to study the preparation of gardenia yellow pigment, and selected nine kinds of natural dyes of traditional Chinese medicine including shellac, acacia, rhubarb, terminalia chebula, indigo, catechu, pomegranate bark, gardenia and salvia miltiorrhiza to study them dyeing cotton.The results indicated that eight kinds of natural dyes have been enabled to dye cotton,including shellac, acacia, terminalia chebula, indigo, catechu, pomegranate bark, gardenia and salvia miltiorrhiza, six of which have achieved the two and higher grade of lightfastness, the better up to 5-6, and their color fastnesses to washing and rubbing are in line with market requirements. Many different kinds of color could be aquired by combination dyeing, overprint and using different mordants. We mastered initially the dyeing technics of these natural dyes and had some understanding of related categories of natural dyes.We selected terminalia chebula and pomegranate bark natural dyes, and studied modelingly their dyeing technics on cotton. We explored the effects of different dyeing methods and mordants for dyeing cotton, adopting non-mordant (directly staining), pre-mordant, mordant-together and post-mordant staining methods,and using KA1 (SO_4) 2,ZnCl_2,lanthanum-rich rare-earth chloride, mixed rare-earth chloride, SrCl_2,CaCl_2, SnCl_2 and FeSO_4 as mordants.We optimized the amount of dye, the amount of mordant,dyeing temperature and dyeing time parameters through a single factor experiments of mordant amount and orthogonal test. The results indicated that a bright yellow color and good fastness of cotton fabrics could be aquired by pomegranate bark natural dye staining cotton with the use of optimized zinc mordant in dyeing bath together, and also obtained by terminalia chebula natural dye staining cotton with the use of optimized alum mordant before dyeing bath.
中药天然染料目前普遍存在原料来源少,上染天然纤维素纤维困难、色牢度差、颜色单调等问题,使其开发和应用受到了极大的限制。针对这些现状,本课题选取了栀子作为原料,进行了栀子黄色素的制备研究；选取了紫胶、金合欢、大黄、诃子、靛蓝、儿茶、石榴皮、栀子和丹参等九种中药天然染料对棉布进行染色研究。研究结果表明：①已能使紫胶、金合欢、诃子、靛蓝、儿茶、石榴皮、栀子和丹参等八种天然染料上染棉布；②已能使紫胶、金合欢、诃子、靛蓝、儿茶、石榴皮等六种天然染料的日晒牢度达到2级以上,较好的可达5-6级；且其耐洗牢度、摩擦牢度均符合市场要求；③通过拼色和套染试验,选用不同的媒染助剂等方法得到了不同的颜色；④初步掌握了以上几种中药天然染料的染色工艺,并对相关类别的天然染料的染色方法有了一定程度的了解；其中选取诃子、石榴皮天然染料,对其上染棉布的染色工艺进行了示范性研究：分别采用非媒(直接染色)、预媒、同媒和后媒四种染色方法,并分别运用明矾、氯化锌、富镧氯化稀土、混合氯化稀土、氯化亚锶、氯化钙、氯化亚锡和硫酸亚铁等八种媒染剂进行染色试验,以考察不同的染色方法及不同的媒染剂对棉布染色效果的影响；通过媒染剂用量单因数实验和正交试验优化了染料用量、媒染剂用量、染色温度、染色时间等染色工艺参数；其结果表明：石榴皮天然染料上染棉布采用优化的锌同浴媒染染色工艺可染得色泽鲜艳,色牢度较好的黄色棉织物；诃子天然染料上染棉布采用优化的铝预媒染色工艺可染得色泽鲜艳,色牢度较好的黄色棉织物。
Traditional Chinese medicine resources of natural dyes is an important development in the field of prospects. Natural dyes of traditional Chinese medicine are extracted from organisms, and environmental compatibility and biodegradable. In the dyeing process, fabrics possess special health care functions after absorbing efficient components,the scent of drugs and their pigment composition, such as antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, pest control, anti-allergic, anti-tumor, anti-oxidation, radiation-resistant, lowering blood pressure, promoting blood circulation, etc. Thus, with the strengthening environmental awareness and the growing importance of health,it becomes a hot spot once again to research and apply natural dyes of traditional Chinese medicine.
Natural dyes of traditional Chinese medicine currently have common problems,such as less source of raw materials, dyeing natural cellulose fibers difficulties, poor color fastness, monotonous color, which has severely limited their development and application. To aim directly at these statuses, our subject selected gardenia as the raw material to study the preparation of gardenia yellow pigment, and selected nine kinds of natural dyes of traditional Chinese medicine including shellac, acacia, rhubarb, terminalia chebula, indigo, catechu, pomegranate bark, gardenia and salvia miltiorrhiza to study them dyeing cotton.The results indicated that eight kinds of natural dyes have been enabled to dye cotton,including shellac, acacia, terminalia chebula, indigo, catechu, pomegranate bark, gardenia and salvia miltiorrhiza, six of which have achieved the two and higher grade of lightfastness, the better up to 5-6, and their color fastnesses to washing and rubbing are in line with market requirements. Many different kinds of color could be aquired by combination dyeing, overprint and using different mordants. We mastered initially the dyeing technics of these natural dyes and had some understanding of related categories of natural dyes.We selected terminalia chebula and pomegranate bark natural dyes, and studied modelingly their dyeing technics on cotton. We explored the effects of different dyeing methods and mordants for dyeing cotton, adopting non-mordant (directly staining), pre-mordant, mordant-together and post-mordant staining methods,and using KA1 (SO_4) 2,ZnCl_2,lanthanum-rich rare-earth chloride, mixed rare-earth chloride, SrCl_2,CaCl_2, SnCl_2 and FeSO_4 as mordants.We optimized the amount of dye, the amount of mordant,dyeing temperature and dyeing time parameters through a single factor experiments of mordant amount and orthogonal test. The results indicated that a bright yellow color and good fastness of cotton fabrics could be aquired by pomegranate bark natural dye staining cotton with the use of optimized zinc mordant in dyeing bath together, and also obtained by terminalia chebula natural dye staining cotton with the use of optimized alum mordant before dyeing bath.
引文
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[1]Gupta Deepti. Mechanism of dyeing synthetic fibres with nature Dyes. Colourage,2000,47(3):23-26.
[2]刘德军.中药材综合开发技术与利用.北京：中国中医药出版社,1998：120-125.
[3]Singh Rajni, Jain Astha, Panwar Shikha, Gupta, et al. Antimicrobial activity of some natural dyes. Dyes and Pigments,2005,66(2):99-102.
[4]Gupta Deepti, Jain Astha, Panwar Shikha. Anti-UV and anti-microbial properties of some natural dyes on cotton. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research,2005,30(2):190-195.
[5]代光辉,金素心.茜草植物染料的制备方法.专利：200510028688.5,2006.
[6]张栗源,杨晓燕,俞一丰.决明子作为染料的应用.专利：200310108417.1,2004.
[7]徐淑梅,王锁春,黄宓兰.紫草红色素的提取方法.专利：99122568.6,2000.
[8]龚枫砰.黄色保健(着色剂)染料制备方法.专利：94100480.5,1995.
[9]Park Seon Yeong. Antibacterial natural dyes and dyeing method. Publication number:KR 2003012362.
[10]Park Mi Sun, Hong In Kwon. Analysis of color difference by mixed solvent composition in natural dyes extraction process. Kongop Hwahak,2002,13(8):844-851.
[11]Lee Myung Hack, Ku Hong Lim, Cho Yong Ju. Production process for natural dye from acorn and chestnut shell and dyeing method for fiber products using natural dye. Publication number:KR 2000021744.
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[13]林细姣,郑光洪,杨东洁,等.稀土在植物染料染色中的媒染应用研究.印染助剂,2002,19(1)：27-30.
[14]Mukhopadhyay Mamata, Bhattacharyya Niyati. A pragmatic approach to supercritical fluid dyeing of textile fibres with natural dyes. Colourage,2001,48(8):21-28.
[15]Lee J. J., Lee H. H., Eom S. I., et al. UV absorber after treatment to improve lightfastness of natural dyes on protein fibres. Coloration Technology,2001,117(3):134-138.
[2]Sengupta, Siddhartha. Dyeing of wool fibre with onion skin as a natural dye. Man-Made Textiles in India,2004,47(9):341-348.
[3]Singh Rajni, Jain Astha, Panwar Shikha, Gupta Deepti, Khare S. K. Antimicrobial activity of some natural dyes. Dyes and Pigments, 2005,66(2):99-102.
[4]Gupta Deepti, Jain Astha, Panwar Shikha. Anti-UV and anti-microbial properties of some natural dyes on cotton. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research,2005,30(2):190-195.
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