细旦锦纶织物的适用染料及其染深性的研究
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摘要
由细旦锦纶制成的服装，不仅具有合成纤维的洗可穿、免烫、尺寸稳定性好、缩水率小和耐气候性好等特点，还兼有天然纤维柔软、丰满、悬垂性好、飘逸感强、透气性好、舒适性佳等优点，并具有天然纤维不具备的质感和功能，这就赋予细旦锦纶优良的服用性能，可以制成新的纺织面料。近年来，随着锦纶的不断发展，涤改锦的的前景看好。但是由于细旦锦纶的结构特点：纤度细，其单位重量纤维的比表面积大，决定了细旦锦纶存在染色方面的困难，容易造成染色不匀和染深性差，而且不易染得鲜艳的颜色。本课题主要从选择染料、改进染色工艺和添加特殊助剂着手来研究细旦锦纶的染色技术。
以前，锦纶染色主要采用酸性染料，理论上还可以采用活性染料、直接染料和分散染料，但是由于存在各种各样的缺陷，用得较少。从90年代初，就开始研究应用稀土(RE或R)帮助染色，效果突出。稀土是化学元素周期表中镧系元素—镧(La)、铈(Ce)、镨(Pr)、钕(Nd)、钷(Pm)、钐(Sm)、铕(Eu)、钆(Gd)、铽(Tb)、镝(Dy)、钬(Ho)、铒(Er)、铥(Tm)、镱(Yb)、镥(Lu)，以及与这镧系的15个元素密切相关的两个元素—钪(Sc)和钇(Y)共17个元素的简称。稀土元素是典型的金属元素，它们的金属活泼性仅次于碱金属和碱土金属元素，而比其他金属元素活泼。稀土离子与羟基、偶氮基或磺酸基等形成结合物，使稀土能应用于印染行业。本课题选用稀土为染色助剂，以起到匀染和染色增深等作用。
本文试验表明，在细旦锦纶染色中，研究合适的工艺：合适的初染温度、升温速率、保温温度和保温时间，控制适当的pH值，添加合适的稀土助剂，控制盐和碱的用量，可以明显地提高酸性染料和活性染料的上染率和染深性，并且染色织物的耐摩擦、耐洗和耐光性能也有很大的改善；加入稀土染色操作简便，染料三原色的上染率曲线仍然比较一致，有利于稀土助染获得较好的拼色效果。在酸性染料染色中，根据优化的工艺条件染色，选择稀土CeO_2，其用量为1％(o.w.f)，染液的pH值为4，浴比为1∶20，匀染剂Lyogen的用量为10mL／L，染料可获得良好的染色效果；在活性染色中，根据优化的工艺条件染色，添加稀土La_2(CO_3)_3，其用量为1％(o.w.f)，染液的pH值为4，浴比1∶20，氯化钠用量30 g／L，碳酸钠用量10g／L，染料可获得良好的染色效果；本文还试验了活性染料酸性上染新工艺，在活性染料染色时采用醋酸作助剂，染色后期再加碱固色，这不仅提高了织物上染率，也减少了盐和碱的用量，是一种有利于环保的染色新工艺。根据大量试验，以这三种优化工艺进行细旦锦纶的染色，普遍可以获得色泽鲜艳的染色织物。本文也对分散染料染细旦锦纶的工艺：分散剂、pH值、温度、时间等因素进行了初步的探讨，得到了较好的结果。
本文利用稀土进行细旦锦纶的染色研究取得了较好的效果，对其生产应用具有很好的参考价值。
Clothing that are made from fine-denier polyamide, have the character of redressing, non-ironing , dimension stability , little shrinkage bearing climate , suppleness , chubbiness ,good pendency, strong elegant feeling , good breathing , comfortableness , and also have the sense of quality and function that natural fibre does not have,which make fine-denier polyamide fiber good wearability , so it can manufacture new spinning and weaving material. During the past few years, with the development of polyamide fibre, the prospect of replacing polyester by polyamide is increasing. But because of the structure characteristic of fine-denier polyamide fibre: The diameter of fibre is small, whose fibrous specific surface area of per weight is large, it determined that dyeing on fine-denier polyamide fiber has much difficulties. This article mainly choose the right dyes, improve the dyeing craft and add special assistants in order to improve the dye on fine-denier polyamide fibre.
Previously, the main dyes on Polyamide fibre dyeing is acid dyes, it can use reactive dyes, direct dyes and disperse dyes theoretically, but the defect is not all good. Since 1990s, the rare earth began to apply to dyes dyeing, the result is outstanding. Rare earth (RE or R) is thorter of 17 kinds elements that is the lanthanides chemical elements of the periodic table --lanthanum (La) , cerium (Ce), praseodymium (Pr), neodymium (Nd) , promethium (Pm) , samarium (Sm) , europium (Eu) , gadolinium (Gd) , terbium (Tb) , dysprosium (Dy) , holmium (Ho) , erbium (Er) , thulium (Tm) , ytterbium (Yb) , lutecium (Lu), and two elements scandium (Sc) and yttrium (Y) closely related to 15 elements of lanthanum department. The rare-earth elements are representative metallic elements, their metal lively is next only to alkali metal and the alkaline earth metallic elements, but more lively than the other metallic elements. The rare earth ion make a combination combining with the base group such as -OH, -N=N- , -SO_3~(2+), which make the rare earth applying to printing and dyeing industry. The rare earth article was used as a kind of assistant in dyeing to increase color depths, level dyeing etc.
The results indicated that the function being able to raise the dye-up of the acid dyes and the reactive dye and acquire color depths obviously by choosing the right dyeing craft on fine-denier polyamide fibre dyeing: right original temperature, the temperature rate, the temperature and the time of preserving heat, the appropriate pH value, adding the right rare earth assistant, controlling salt and alkali, and the dyeing fabric frictional fastness, wash and light fastness improved greatly. It is easy to operate with adding the rare earth in dyeing, and the dye-up curve of three-primary colours are still consistent, it is beneficial to use the rare earth assistant to dye. In acid dyes dyeing process,the best dyeing method is adding rare earth CeO_2, whose dosage is 1% (o.w.f) , the pH value is 4, the bath ratio is 1: 20 , levelling agent dosage is 10 mL/L, which can acquire a good result; In reactive dyes dyeing process, the best dyeing method is adding rare earth La_2 (CO_3)_3, whose dosage is 1% (o.w.f) , the pH value is 4 , the bath ratio is 1: 20, salt dosage is 30 g/L, sodium carbonate dosage is 10 g/L; A new reactive dyes dyeing method been studied in the article in acid conditions, during the period of reactive dyes dyeing, the color strengthened by adding alkali in dyeing later stage ,This craft not only increases the dye-up of dyes, but also decreaces the dosage of salt and alkali, it is one kind of new economical and environmental protection dyeing. The three kinds of crafts condition carry out with large amount of testing, it can gain bright-colored polyamide cloth commonly. Test have also tested the craft, the temperature , pH value and the dispersant effect dyeing on polyamide fibre , it also have got good achievement.
This article studies the dyeing on fine-denier polyamide fibre by using of the rare earth, and recrives fairly good effect, it provides an important reference value for application.
以前，锦纶染色主要采用酸性染料，理论上还可以采用活性染料、直接染料和分散染料，但是由于存在各种各样的缺陷，用得较少。从90年代初，就开始研究应用稀土(RE或R)帮助染色，效果突出。稀土是化学元素周期表中镧系元素—镧(La)、铈(Ce)、镨(Pr)、钕(Nd)、钷(Pm)、钐(Sm)、铕(Eu)、钆(Gd)、铽(Tb)、镝(Dy)、钬(Ho)、铒(Er)、铥(Tm)、镱(Yb)、镥(Lu)，以及与这镧系的15个元素密切相关的两个元素—钪(Sc)和钇(Y)共17个元素的简称。稀土元素是典型的金属元素，它们的金属活泼性仅次于碱金属和碱土金属元素，而比其他金属元素活泼。稀土离子与羟基、偶氮基或磺酸基等形成结合物，使稀土能应用于印染行业。本课题选用稀土为染色助剂，以起到匀染和染色增深等作用。
本文试验表明，在细旦锦纶染色中，研究合适的工艺：合适的初染温度、升温速率、保温温度和保温时间，控制适当的pH值，添加合适的稀土助剂，控制盐和碱的用量，可以明显地提高酸性染料和活性染料的上染率和染深性，并且染色织物的耐摩擦、耐洗和耐光性能也有很大的改善；加入稀土染色操作简便，染料三原色的上染率曲线仍然比较一致，有利于稀土助染获得较好的拼色效果。在酸性染料染色中，根据优化的工艺条件染色，选择稀土CeO_2，其用量为1％(o.w.f)，染液的pH值为4，浴比为1∶20，匀染剂Lyogen的用量为10mL／L，染料可获得良好的染色效果；在活性染色中，根据优化的工艺条件染色，添加稀土La_2(CO_3)_3，其用量为1％(o.w.f)，染液的pH值为4，浴比1∶20，氯化钠用量30 g／L，碳酸钠用量10g／L，染料可获得良好的染色效果；本文还试验了活性染料酸性上染新工艺，在活性染料染色时采用醋酸作助剂，染色后期再加碱固色，这不仅提高了织物上染率，也减少了盐和碱的用量，是一种有利于环保的染色新工艺。根据大量试验，以这三种优化工艺进行细旦锦纶的染色，普遍可以获得色泽鲜艳的染色织物。本文也对分散染料染细旦锦纶的工艺：分散剂、pH值、温度、时间等因素进行了初步的探讨，得到了较好的结果。
本文利用稀土进行细旦锦纶的染色研究取得了较好的效果，对其生产应用具有很好的参考价值。
Clothing that are made from fine-denier polyamide, have the character of redressing, non-ironing , dimension stability , little shrinkage bearing climate , suppleness , chubbiness ,good pendency, strong elegant feeling , good breathing , comfortableness , and also have the sense of quality and function that natural fibre does not have,which make fine-denier polyamide fiber good wearability , so it can manufacture new spinning and weaving material. During the past few years, with the development of polyamide fibre, the prospect of replacing polyester by polyamide is increasing. But because of the structure characteristic of fine-denier polyamide fibre: The diameter of fibre is small, whose fibrous specific surface area of per weight is large, it determined that dyeing on fine-denier polyamide fiber has much difficulties. This article mainly choose the right dyes, improve the dyeing craft and add special assistants in order to improve the dye on fine-denier polyamide fibre.
Previously, the main dyes on Polyamide fibre dyeing is acid dyes, it can use reactive dyes, direct dyes and disperse dyes theoretically, but the defect is not all good. Since 1990s, the rare earth began to apply to dyes dyeing, the result is outstanding. Rare earth (RE or R) is thorter of 17 kinds elements that is the lanthanides chemical elements of the periodic table --lanthanum (La) , cerium (Ce), praseodymium (Pr), neodymium (Nd) , promethium (Pm) , samarium (Sm) , europium (Eu) , gadolinium (Gd) , terbium (Tb) , dysprosium (Dy) , holmium (Ho) , erbium (Er) , thulium (Tm) , ytterbium (Yb) , lutecium (Lu), and two elements scandium (Sc) and yttrium (Y) closely related to 15 elements of lanthanum department. The rare-earth elements are representative metallic elements, their metal lively is next only to alkali metal and the alkaline earth metallic elements, but more lively than the other metallic elements. The rare earth ion make a combination combining with the base group such as -OH, -N=N- , -SO_3~(2+), which make the rare earth applying to printing and dyeing industry. The rare earth article was used as a kind of assistant in dyeing to increase color depths, level dyeing etc.
The results indicated that the function being able to raise the dye-up of the acid dyes and the reactive dye and acquire color depths obviously by choosing the right dyeing craft on fine-denier polyamide fibre dyeing: right original temperature, the temperature rate, the temperature and the time of preserving heat, the appropriate pH value, adding the right rare earth assistant, controlling salt and alkali, and the dyeing fabric frictional fastness, wash and light fastness improved greatly. It is easy to operate with adding the rare earth in dyeing, and the dye-up curve of three-primary colours are still consistent, it is beneficial to use the rare earth assistant to dye. In acid dyes dyeing process,the best dyeing method is adding rare earth CeO_2, whose dosage is 1% (o.w.f) , the pH value is 4, the bath ratio is 1: 20 , levelling agent dosage is 10 mL/L, which can acquire a good result; In reactive dyes dyeing process, the best dyeing method is adding rare earth La_2 (CO_3)_3, whose dosage is 1% (o.w.f) , the pH value is 4 , the bath ratio is 1: 20, salt dosage is 30 g/L, sodium carbonate dosage is 10 g/L; A new reactive dyes dyeing method been studied in the article in acid conditions, during the period of reactive dyes dyeing, the color strengthened by adding alkali in dyeing later stage ,This craft not only increases the dye-up of dyes, but also decreaces the dosage of salt and alkali, it is one kind of new economical and environmental protection dyeing. The three kinds of crafts condition carry out with large amount of testing, it can gain bright-colored polyamide cloth commonly. Test have also tested the craft, the temperature , pH value and the dispersant effect dyeing on polyamide fibre , it also have got good achievement.
This article studies the dyeing on fine-denier polyamide fibre by using of the rare earth, and recrives fairly good effect, it provides an important reference value for application.
引文
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[5] 李云珍．稀土在酸性媒介染料中的应用[J]．印染，1990(1)：21．
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[2] 中国橡胶工业协会，中国橡胶工业协会会员单位．2001年生产经营情况[J]．中国橡胶,2002，18(6)．
[3] 余双玉．中国轮胎工业竞争特点和创新之路[J]．中国橡胶,2002，18．
[4] 罗先金，李光天，陈兴，程侣柏．超细纤维用染料的进展[J]．染料工业，1996,33(4)：1～7．
[5] 李云珍．稀土在酸性媒介染料中的应用[J]．印染，1990(1)：21．
[6] 内蒙古第一毛纺织厂应用稀土染色研究组．稀土在纯毛染色中的应用[J]．毛纺科技，1983(5)：45．
[7] 方建云．影响羊毛染色的因素及羊毛染色中稀土作用机理[J]．中国稀土学报，1987，5(4)：47．
[8] 邵学广，赵贵文．稀土与偶氮类酸性染料的相互作用[J]．稀土，1992，13(2)：83．
[9] 王菊生，染整工艺原理[M]．北京：纺织工业出版社，1984,125～134．
[10] 杨新玮．染料及有机颜料[M]．北京：化学工业出版社,1990．
[11] 杨新玮等．酸性染料及酸性媒介染料[M]．北京：化学工业出版社，1989．
[12] 蔡苏英等．染整工艺学[M]．北京：中国纺织出版社，2004．
[13] 宋心远．新合纤染整[M]．北京：中国纺织出版社，1997．
[14] 陈博民．在超临界CO_2中用分散染料对天然纤维染色[J]．国外纺织技术．1996，(1)：20～22．
[15] 侯爱芹，戴瑾瑾．超临界流体技术在染整加工中的应用研究[J]．纺织学报，2001，(6)：69～71．
[16] 罗先金．超细旦纤维用分散染料的研究．大连理工大学硕士学位论文 (1997)．
[17] 杨栋梁，超细旦和新合纤织物的染整加工[J]．印染，1994,20(1)，32～37．
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