近代社会西装流行引发的民众反应——言论与行为
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摘要
文章以近代民众对于服饰变革的反应与着装行为为研究对象,基于近代文献及各地方志中的史料进行研究。发现当时民众对于西装的态度存在支持、反对和辩证三种类型,其中反对的声音最多;发现民国后期全国各地穿西装者普遍增多,与此同时西服业规模逐步扩大。分析结果显示,采用国货面料制作西装解决了利权外溢的问题,关键在于发展中国民族毛纺织业,价格问题亦会迎刃而解;同时相对长袍马褂而言,穿西装更适合近代国人的工作与生活方式。因而这种"言行不一"的现象实质上反映出,民众对于外来新生事物的审慎态度与近代社会变服的必然性。
Based on historical data in modern literatures and local chronicles, the study focuses on modern people's reaction to costume reformation and dressing behavior. It is found that people mainly take supportive, opposing or dialectical attitude towards suits, and the proportion of people taking an opposing attitude is largest; at the same time, the number of people wearing suits around the country increased during the late period of the Republic of China, and the scale of suit industry was gradually expanded. Analysis results show that making use of domestically manufactured fabrics to produce suits is a solution to the problem of profit spillovers, the key to tackling price problem is developing China's national wool textile industry; relative to Chinese robes, suits are more suitable for modern Chinese people in respect of work and lifestyle. Thus, the phenomenon of "consistency-lacking actions" essentially reflects people's cautious attitude towards new things from abroad and the inevitability of costume reformation in modern society.
Based on historical data in modern literatures and local chronicles, the study focuses on modern people's reaction to costume reformation and dressing behavior. It is found that people mainly take supportive, opposing or dialectical attitude towards suits, and the proportion of people taking an opposing attitude is largest; at the same time, the number of people wearing suits around the country increased during the late period of the Republic of China, and the scale of suit industry was gradually expanded. Analysis results show that making use of domestically manufactured fabrics to produce suits is a solution to the problem of profit spillovers, the key to tackling price problem is developing China's national wool textile industry; relative to Chinese robes, suits are more suitable for modern Chinese people in respect of work and lifestyle. Thus, the phenomenon of "consistency-lacking actions" essentially reflects people's cautious attitude towards new things from abroad and the inevitability of costume reformation in modern society.
引文
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[29]佚名.剪辫易服说[J].湖北学生界,1903,3:147-151.Anon.Cutting plait and changing dress[J].Hubei Student Circle,1903,3:147-151.
[30]服制理由:1912[A].中国第二历史档案馆(全宗号1002,卷宗639).Mourning apparel reason:1912[A].Secondary Historical Archives of China (code of full files 1002,case number 639).
[2]刘云华.红帮裁缝研究[M].杭州:浙江大学出版社.2010.LIU Yunhua.Research on Hong Bang Tailor [M].Hangzhou:Zhejiang University Press,2010.
[3]马晨曲.民国时期上海西服业的特征研究[D].上海:东华大学,2013.MA Chenqu.Research on the characteristics of Shanghai suit industry in the Republic of China [D].Shanghai:Donghua University,2013.
[4]胡大泽.美国的中国近现代史研究[M].北京:中国社会科学出版社,2004:100.HU Daze.American Studies of Chinese Modern History [M].Beijing:China Social Sciences Press,2004:100.
[5]李介眉.制西装之选择[N].申报本埠增刊(衣服号),1926-12-16(2-3).LI Jiemei.The choice of making suit[N].The Shun Pao,1926-12-16(2-3).
[6]叶楚伧.由党的力行来挽回风气.胡适.新文化运动与国民党[J].新月,1929,2(6/7):1.YE Chuncang.By the party’s efforts to restore the atmosphere.HU Shi.New culture movement and kuomintang [J].Crescent,1929,2(6/7):1.
[7]王新命.中国本位的文化建设宣言[J].中国文化建设协会山西分会月刊,1935,1(3):61-64.WANG Xinmin.China-based cultural construction declaration [J].China Culture Construction Association Shanxi Branch Monthly,1935,1(3):61-64.
[8]林语堂.论西装[J].论语,1934,39:706-708.LIN Yutang.Suit discussion [J].The Analects,1934,39:706-708.
[9]音之.穿西服者的心理透视[J].吾友,1943,3(43):15.YIN Zhi.Psychological perspective of wearing suits[J].My Friends,1943,3 (43):15.
[10]伏园.穿西服[N].京报副刊,1926-02-05(406).FU Yuan.Wearing suit [N].The Peking Gazette Supplement,1926-02-05 (406).
[11]佚名.合影照片[J].沪江年刊,1921-1941.Anon.Group photograph [J].Hujiang Annual Publication,1921-1941.
[12]上海市西服商业同业公会历年会员名册:1944—1949[A].上海市档案馆(S241-1-27):1-136.Membership list of Shanghai suit trade associations over the years:1944-1949 [A].Shanghai Archives (S241-1-27):1-136.
[13]江苏省地方志编纂委员会.江苏省志·纺织工业志[M].南京:江苏古籍出版社,1997:208.Jiangsu Province Local Records Committee.Jiangsu Textile Industry Records [M].Nanjing:Jiangsu Ancient Books Press,1997:208.
[14]长沙市志编纂委员会.长沙市志·第七卷[M].长沙:湖南人民出版社,2001:259-260.Changsha Local Records Committee.Changsha Local Records Vol 7 [M].Changsha:Hunan People’s Press,2001:259-260.
[15]青岛市史志办公室.青岛市志·商业志[M].北京:五洲传播出版社,2000:12-14.Qingdao Local Records Office.Qingdao Business Records [M].Beijing:China Intercontinental Press,2000:12-14.
[16]南京市地方志编纂委员会.南京市志(第四册)[M].北京:方志出版社,2009:21.Nanjing Local Records Committee.Nanjing Local Records (Vol 4) [M].Beijing:Local Records Press,2009:21.
[17]锦县地方志编纂委员会.锦县志[M].沈阳:沈阳出版社,1990:213.Jin County Local Records Committee.Jin County Local Records [M].Shenyang:Shenyang Press,1990:213.
[18]新金县地方志编纂委员会办公室.新金县志[M].大连:大连出版社,1993:301.Xinjin County Local Records Committee Office.Xinjin County Local Records[M].Dalian:Dalian Press,1993:301.
[19]驹.中国社会之西装趋势[J].机联会刊,1930,17:43.JU.Chinese society suit trend [J].Aircraft Federation Journal,1930,17:43.
[20]振纲.为主张征收西装税者进一解[J].民众生活,1930,1(7):34.ZHEN Gang.A solution for those who advocate suit tax [J].Popular Life,1930,1(7):34.
[21]补庵.西服与丝业[J].广智馆星期报,1933,206:1-4.BU An.Suits and silk industry[J].Guangzhi Museum Weekly News,1933,206:1-4.
[22]四方.西装与中服[J].人言周刊,1934,1(23):468.SI Fang.Suit and Chinese clothes [J].People’s Comment Weekly,1934,1(23):468.
[23]敌伪当局与旧租界工部局限制本业工价以及上海市西服商业同业公会提订价目有关的来往文:1942[A].上海档案馆(S241-1-37).The correspondence between the anti-counterfeiting authorities and the Old Concession Bureau of the Ministry of Industry and the Shanghai Suits Commercial Association about Industry price:1942 [A].Shanghai Archives(S241-1-37).
[24]依明.禁穿西装[J].民众生活,1930,1(6):4.YI Ming.Forbid wearing suit[J].Popular Life,1930,1(6):4.
[25]陈嘉庚.复兴民族与服制[J].东方杂志,1937,34(1):29-31.CHEN Jiageng.Revival of ethnic and service systems[J].Oriental Magazine,1937,34(1):29-31.
[26]毛吟槎.男子服饰应改的我见[J].家庭,1922,7:2-3.MAO Yincha.Men’s clothing should be changed [J].Home,1922,7:2-3.
[27]蒋为民.时髦外婆:追寻老上海的时尚生活[M].上海:三联书店,2003:18.JIANG Weiming.Vogue Grandma:in Searching of the Fashionable Life of the Old Shanghai [M].Shanghai:SDX Joint Publishing Company,2003:18.
[28]中国现代文学馆.啼笑因缘[M].北京:华夏出版社,2008 :11.National Museum of Modern Chinese Literature.Sadness and Happiness Destined [M].Beijing:Huaxia Publishing House,2008:11.
[29]佚名.剪辫易服说[J].湖北学生界,1903,3:147-151.Anon.Cutting plait and changing dress[J].Hubei Student Circle,1903,3:147-151.
[30]服制理由:1912[A].中国第二历史档案馆(全宗号1002,卷宗639).Mourning apparel reason:1912[A].Secondary Historical Archives of China (code of full files 1002,case number 639).