海洋来源的美白活性成分的研究进展
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摘要
概述了黑色素合成与信号转导途径,综述了海藻活性成分如多糖、多酚、类胡萝卜素和萜类化合物;海洋动物提取物如蛋白质、多肽和糖蛋白;以及海洋微生物中微藻、真菌和细菌的活性物质在美白方面的研究成果,并指出以这些活性成分为原料开发新型美白化妆品的市场前景。
The synthesis and signal transduction pathway of melanin were summarized. The research results of seaweed active composition such as polysaccharides, polyphenols, carotenoids and terpenoids, marine animal extracts such as collagen, peptides and glycoproteins, and active substances of microalgae, marine fungi and bacteria in whitening were reviewed. It points out the market prospect of developing new whitening cosmetics based on these active ingredients.
The synthesis and signal transduction pathway of melanin were summarized. The research results of seaweed active composition such as polysaccharides, polyphenols, carotenoids and terpenoids, marine animal extracts such as collagen, peptides and glycoproteins, and active substances of microalgae, marine fungi and bacteria in whitening were reviewed. It points out the market prospect of developing new whitening cosmetics based on these active ingredients.
引文
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[27]Zhang Yongliang.Study on the biochemical characterization of collagen and skin-care activity of collagen peptides extracted from jellyfish rhopilema esculentum[D].Qingdao:Ocean University of China,2009.
[28]Kim S J,Park S Y,Hong S M,et al.Skin whitening and anticorrugation activities of glycoprotein fractions from liquid extracts of boiled sea cucumber[J].Asian Pac.J.Trop Med.,2016,9(10):1002-1006.
[29]Oh C T,Kwon T R,Jang Y J,et al.Inhibitory effects of Stichopus japonicus extract on melanogenesis of mouse cells via ERKphosphorylation[J].Mol.Med.Rep.,2017,16(2):1079-1086.
[30]Corinaldesi C,Barone G,Marcellini F,et al.Marine microbial-derived molecules and their potential use in cosmeceutical and cosmetic products[J].Mar.Drugs,2017,15(4):118.
[31]Wu L C,Lin Y Y,Yang S Y,et al.Antimelanogenic effect of c-phycocyanin through modulation of tyrosinase expression by upregulation of ERK and downregulation of p38 MAPK signaling pathways[J].J.Biomed Sci.,2011,18:74.
[32]Wu B,Wu X,Sun M,et al.Two novel tyrosinase inhibitory sesquiterpenes induced by CuCl2 from a marine-derived fungus Pestalotiopsis sp.Z233[J].Mar.Drugs,2013,11(8):2713-2721.
[33]Tsuchiya T,Yamada K,Minoura K,et al.Purification and determination of the chemical structure of the tyrosinase inhibitor produced by Trichoderma viride strain H1-7 from a marine environment[J].Biol.Pharm.Bull.,2008,31(8):1618-1620.
[34]Kang H Y,Yoon T J,Lee G J.Whitening effects of marine pseudomonas extract[J].Ann.Dermatol,2011,23(2):144-149.
[35]Deering R W,Chen J,Sun J,et al.N-acyl dehydrotyrosines,tyrosinase inhibitors from the marine bacterium Thalassotalea sp.PP2-459[J].J.Nat.Prod.,2016,79(2):447-450.
[2]Delevoye C.Melanin transfer:the keratinocytes are more than gluttons[J].J.Invest.Dermatol.,2014,134(4):877-879.
[3]Bae-Harboe Y S C,Park H Y.Tyrosinase:a central regulatory protein for cutaneous pigmentation[J].J.Invest.Dermatol.,2012,132(12):2678-2680.
[4]Pillaiyar T,Manickam M,Jung S H.Downregulation of melanogenesis:drug discovery and therapeutic options[J].Drug Discovery Today,2017,22(2):282-298.
[5]Pillaiyar T,Manickam M,Jung S H.Recent development of signaling pathways inhibitors of melanogenesis[J].Cell Signal,2017,40:99-115.
[6]D'Mello S A,Finlay G J,Baguley B C,et al.Signaling pathways in melanogenesis[J].Int.J.Mol.Sci.,2016,17(7),1144.
[7]Pillaiyar T,Namasivayam V,Manickam M,et al.Inhibitors of melanogenesis:an updated review[J].J.Med.Chem.,2018,61(17):7395-7418.
[8]Yin L,Niu C,Liao L X,et al.An isoxazole chalcone derivative enhances melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells via the Akt/GSK3β/β-catenin signaling pathways[J].Molecules,2017,22(12):2077.
[9]Wang H D,Chen C C,Huynh P,et al.Exploring the potential of using algae in cosmetics[J].Bioresour Technol,2015,184:355-362.
[10]Azam M S,Choi J,Lee M S,et al.Hypopigmenting effects of brown algae-derived phytochemicals:a review on molecular mechanisms[J].Mar.Drugs,2017,15(10):297.
[11]Sanjeewa K,Kim E A,Son K T,et al.Bioactive properties and potentials cosmeceutical applications of phlorotannins isolated from brown seaweeds:a review[J].J.Photochem Photobiol B.,2016,162:100-105.
[12]Tian Xin,Li Xiuxia,Wu Keyang,et al.Research progress of extraction and separation method and biological activities of polysaccharides from sea algae[J].Food and Fermentation Technology,2015(6):81-85.
[13]Wang Z J,Si Y X,Oh S,et al.The effect of fucoidan on tyrosinase:computational molecular dynamics integrating inhibition kinetics[J].J.Biomol.Struct.Dyn.,2012,30(4):460-473.
[14]Fitton J,Dell'Acqua G,Gardiner V A,et al.Topical benefits of two fucoidan-rich extracts from marine macroalgae[J].Cosmetics,2015,2(2):66-81.
[15]Song Y S,Balcos M C,Yun H Y,et al.ERK activation by fucoidan leads to inhibition of melanogenesis in Mel-Ab cells[J].Korean J.Physiol.Pharmacol.,2015,19(1):29-34.
[16]Thomas N V,Kim S K.Beneficial effects of marine algal compounds in cosmeceuticals[J].Mar.Drugs,2013,11(1):146-164.
[17]Jang M,Park H,Nam K.Whitening effects of 4-hydroxyphenethyl alcohol isolated from water boiled with Hizikia fusiformis[J].Food Science and Biotechnology,2014,23(2):555-560.
[18]Lee M S,Yoon H D,Kim J I,et al.Dioxinodehydroeckol inhibits melanin synthesis through PI3K/Akt signalling pathway in alphamelanocyte-stimulating hormone-treated B16F10 cells[J].Exp.Dermatol.,2012,21(6):471-473.
[19]Kim K N,Yang H M,Kang S M,et al.Octaphlorethol A isolated from Ishige foliacea inhibits alpha-MSH-stimulated induced melanogenesis via ERK pathway in B16F10 melanoma cells[J].Food Chem.Toxicol.,2013,59:521-526.
[20]Shimoda H,Tanaka J,Shan S J,et al.Anti-pigmentary activity of fucoxanthin and its influence on skin mRNA expression of melanogenic molecules[J].J.Pharm.Pharmacol.,2010,62(9):1137-1145.
[21]Heo S J,Jeon Y J.Protective effect of fucoxanthin isolated from Sargassum siliquastrum on UV-B induced cell damage[J].J.Photochem.Photobiol.B.,2009,95(2):101-107.
[22]Rao A R,Sindhuja H N,Dharmesh S M,et al.Effective inhibition of skin cancer,tyrosinase,and antioxidative properties by astaxanthin and astaxanthin esters from the green alga Haematococcus pluvialis[J].J.Agric.Food Chem.,2013,61(16):3842-3851.
[23]Oh S J,Joung E J,Kwon M S,et al.Anti-Inflammatory effect of ethanolic extract of Sargassum serratifolium in lipopolysaccharidestimulated BV2 microglial cells[J].J.Med.Food,2016,19(11):1023-1031.
[24]Azam M S,Kwon M,Choi J,et al.Sargaquinoic acid ameliorates hyperpigmentation through cAMP and ERK-mediated downregulation of MITF in alpha-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells[J].Biomed Pharmacother,2018,104:582-589.
[25]Nakchum L,Kim S M.Preparation of squid skin collagen hydrolysate as an antihyaluronidase,antityrosinase,and antioxidant agent[J].Prep.Biochem.Biotechnol.,2016,46(2):123-130.
[26]Fang Chengcheng.Studies and applicantions of peptide from meretrix linnaeus[D].Xiamen:Amoy University,2009.
[27]Zhang Yongliang.Study on the biochemical characterization of collagen and skin-care activity of collagen peptides extracted from jellyfish rhopilema esculentum[D].Qingdao:Ocean University of China,2009.
[28]Kim S J,Park S Y,Hong S M,et al.Skin whitening and anticorrugation activities of glycoprotein fractions from liquid extracts of boiled sea cucumber[J].Asian Pac.J.Trop Med.,2016,9(10):1002-1006.
[29]Oh C T,Kwon T R,Jang Y J,et al.Inhibitory effects of Stichopus japonicus extract on melanogenesis of mouse cells via ERKphosphorylation[J].Mol.Med.Rep.,2017,16(2):1079-1086.
[30]Corinaldesi C,Barone G,Marcellini F,et al.Marine microbial-derived molecules and their potential use in cosmeceutical and cosmetic products[J].Mar.Drugs,2017,15(4):118.
[31]Wu L C,Lin Y Y,Yang S Y,et al.Antimelanogenic effect of c-phycocyanin through modulation of tyrosinase expression by upregulation of ERK and downregulation of p38 MAPK signaling pathways[J].J.Biomed Sci.,2011,18:74.
[32]Wu B,Wu X,Sun M,et al.Two novel tyrosinase inhibitory sesquiterpenes induced by CuCl2 from a marine-derived fungus Pestalotiopsis sp.Z233[J].Mar.Drugs,2013,11(8):2713-2721.
[33]Tsuchiya T,Yamada K,Minoura K,et al.Purification and determination of the chemical structure of the tyrosinase inhibitor produced by Trichoderma viride strain H1-7 from a marine environment[J].Biol.Pharm.Bull.,2008,31(8):1618-1620.
[34]Kang H Y,Yoon T J,Lee G J.Whitening effects of marine pseudomonas extract[J].Ann.Dermatol,2011,23(2):144-149.
[35]Deering R W,Chen J,Sun J,et al.N-acyl dehydrotyrosines,tyrosinase inhibitors from the marine bacterium Thalassotalea sp.PP2-459[J].J.Nat.Prod.,2016,79(2):447-450.